NYC's Best Cup Of Coffee? Stumptown.

And lucky for me... it's just around the corner.


The Chelsea neighborhood of NYC is known for it's interesting cafés and often exploratory restaurant "experiments".... but the coffee has never been in question. While many people know about "Café Grumpy".... the fantastic coffee hang on 20th Street, the midtown faithful are now discovering what may likely be the best cup of coffee in New York... Stumptown Roasters.

First you should know, this isn't your normal shop. The folks at Stumptown (a business born and loved in Portland, Oregon) take coffee seriously. So seriously, they travel the world searching for the beans that will make the difference in your cup... and they do so with a fair trade mentality that most companies could only dream of. I'm not talking about big "corporate" trips with high level executives that book rooms at the Hilton. I'm talking about people who cap out under trees in the Kenyan bush. Those guys.

Now if fair trade and sustainability is your thing, I suggest you spend some time on the Stumptown website and learn about their endeavors... you'll be impressed. It's hard not to become a fan of their mission.

As great and important as this work is... it would likely be overlooked if it all resulted in a cup of nasty coffee. But this isn't the case.

The store itself is nestled in the front of the newish and hip "Ace Hotel" in Chelsea. The Ace Hotel is a funky, NYC boutique hotel that delivers all of the style and substance you'd expect to find in Midtown Manhattan. Crazy cool art, a refined and uber cool lobby (this is where you enjoy your coffee... as the shop itself has no seating).... and a gaggle of hipsters who have planted their stake there to profess their love for what makes NYC great.

The coffee you ask?

The experts at Stumptown don't use a brewer like our friends at Starbucks to make a cup of coffee. All "drip" style coffee is made in large french press pots, and then quickly transferred into vacuum pumps to keep the coffee hot and fresh. Spectacular. The espresso is ground fresh and made in a traditional pump machine... and cranks out quality draws. This is good stuff.

By the way... if you haven't had a cup of french press in a while... make owe it to yourself to make a cup. Having been addicted to french press coffee on and off for the last 20 years, I'm still convinced that this is truly the only way to really experience the subtly of a perfectly roasted bean. But beware, once you get hooked you'll have a hard time getting off of it. It's the crack of the coffee world. More about making french press at home below (thanks Stumptown).

The store sells a variety of it's coffees, with description cards to tell you about the origin and complexity of the roast. The people who work behind the counter know a lot about each varietal, so don't be afraid to ask.

Welcome to the neighborhood, Stumptown. It's always great when the product exceeds the hype.

Here's to one terrific cup of coffee.

STUMPTOWN IS CASH ONLY.

Address

18 W 29th St.
New York, NY 10001

Hours

6 am to 8 pm daily

How to prepare the perfect press pot at home

Using a press pot (aka French Press) is the easiest and best way to get truly excellent coffee at home. The keys to getting good results are: using high quality, fresh beans; grinding the coffee correctly; using clean equipment; timing the process.

You’ll need a Press Pot, coffee, a grinder, a spoon, a timer, and cups (and thermal carafe if preparing more than fits in the cups).

Step 1

Grind coffee

It is important that the coffee be ground coarse and that it be ground with a quality burr (rather than blade) grinder. By grinding the coffee coarse, you’re allowing for a slower and more even extraction which results in a fuller bodied and more nuanced cup. Blade grinders chop the coffee rather than grinding it, resulting in uneven particle size and unpredictable particle size. This results in uneven extraction, which causes coffee that has increased bitterness and which is not true to the true flavour profile of the coffee. In addition, the lack of consistency in particle size results in inconsistent and unpredictable results from pot to pot.

Step 2

Add coffee to pot

You’ll need one tablespoon of coffee for every 4oz of water. In other words, if you have a 16oz press pot, you’ll want to use 4 tablespoons of coffee. Feel free to adjust this amount based on your own personal tastes. Make sure the pot is clean and dry.

Step 3

Add water

You should bring the water just to a boil (electric kettles are great at this) and then let it cool for about 45 seconds. Then pour it aggressively into the pot so that it saturates the grounds. The key is to saturate all the grounds evenly. You should move the stream around as you pour to facilitate this. Do not fill the pot entirely. With many fresh coffees you will see significant expansion of the coffee in a sort of “foam” at the top of the liquid once you add water. This is known as “bloom” and is the result of the off-gassing of CO2 from the coffee. Adding too much water can result in a very messy countertop.

Step 4

Start timer

You’re going to want to have a timer that counts down from 4 minutes and has an alarm at 4 minutes. It’s very important that you use a timer to guarantee high quality coffee.

Step 5

Stir pot

After 1 minute, you should stir the grounds in the pot. If you need to add water to top off the pot, make sure it is again right below boiling. Stirring the pot guarantees even and optimal extraction of all the coffee. In addition, it breaks down the “bloom” and allows you to combine the correct amount of water and coffee without spilling all over the place.

Step 6

Put press/top on pot

Make sure you line up the spout and the corresponding exit in the lid.

Step 7

Press the pot

At exactly 4 minutes, you should push the press (slowly) into the pot to force all grounds to the bottom. You might have to press and then release and repeat to do this. Do not crush it with all your might – use some finesse.

Step 8

Pour the coffee

You need to do this as soon as you’ve pressed the pot. If you’re making more coffee than you can fit into a cup and want to hold some for later, pour the coffee into a thermal carafe. Do not simply leave the coffee in the press pot – it will get nasty quickly. If you want to avoid any stray grounds and sediment, you can pour the coffee through a mesh basket filter.

Little Did I Know… The Bitches of Manganaro’s

Evil Is Lurking On 9th Avenue... So Watch Your Step.



It’s a beautiful Saturday August afternoon in Manhattan. Not just beautiful… spectacular. 75 degree temps, clear skies… the smell of food shops in the air. I love this place.

Even though I had already smoked a 7 pound chicken this morning, I yearned to escape from my midtown digs at 28th and 6th and venture out to find some, well…. meat. Sausages, flank steak… anything fresh will do. Great butchers abound in this city. This will be fun.

Since my second home “Faicco’s” in the West Village is closed today (family on vacation one week a year) I decided to venture west…. to a place I had heard much about… Esposito’s Pork Store, a fixture on 9th avenue forever. It was time to pay them a visit.

Let me tell you now that this post isn’t about the nice people and good sausage at Esposito’s.

When I arrived by cab, I hopped out and took a look at the block… and realized I could use a sandwich. It was 2:30pm and the stomach was growling. I had some time to kill. I needed something, since I didn’t have a chance to get my bagel on this morning. Maybe I would get lucky?

I walked down the block about 50 feet and encountered a gigantic sign that read “Mangenero’s”. The spiffy looking restaurant had a menu out front with all of the Italian hero sandwiches listed…. Chicken parm, salami, ham, etc…. you get the picture. There was a nice crowd there for mid-afternoon, and I figured it would be hard to go wrong there.

About 10 feet past this store was “Manganaro Grosseria Italiano”…. an old school grocery and deli, that had charm and history… literally since the 1800’s. I had hit the jackpot. This is where I would lunch. It looked very familiar, but I had never been there. This is exciting.

I quickly entered into an empty space… long and narrow, and noticed 2 woman and an elderly customer in the back. Taken by the nostalgia and feel of the place, I quickly pulled out my camera and snapped a picture of the front counter… a shot that looked as if it had been dressed by a Hollywood set designer. Green shelves, pieces of meat, boxes of pasta. I am in heaven.

Then it happened.

“Don’t do it”, screamed a woman from the rear of the store.

I wasn’t sure if in fact she was yelling at me, as I was hidden partially by a cabinet in the storefront. But then it happened again.

“I’m telling you don’t even think about it”, she shouted.

In about 4 seconds, the two irate Italian woman had bolted to the front of the store as if they were training to run the 50 yard dash for Italy in the next Olympics.

“I’m sorry”, I said. “I didn’t know you had a no photo policy.”

“Photos are for customers,” she snapped. “And I don’t see any food in your mouth”.

I then tried to explain to her that as I was making my way to the back of the store, I had stopped to take a photo.

“Yea, yea… you just stick with that story….. I know your kind”, she remarked.

“My kind?... because I write a food blog and I love to talk about great places to eat?”, I said.

“I knew it… your one of those bloggatweets people…. whatever you are. You don’t care about people or food… you just steal everything”.

Well folks, at this point it is clear to me that these two crazy Italian woman are clearly out of their minds. Here I am with an appetite, my wallet, an appreciation for their store… and I am being verbally abused by both of these insane, abusive, horrible human beings. I just want a freaking sandwich. What the hell is going on.

“I was just in the neighborhood to buy some meat on the corner and thought I would walk down….”, I said.

And then, it hit me. I had seen this store before. Bourdain. No Reservations. Of course. The place next door. The sandwich feud. This was all making sense. These two delis have been feuding for decades, and of course these idiots think I give a shit.

“I tell you what, come take a look while I delete this photo from my phone, and I’ll be on my way”, I said.

“You can shove that phone up your ass for all I care. Where are your manners? What do you care about us? All you people do is take, take… where is hello? Please?”, she said.

Please keep in mind, all I did was come in for a sandwich, and I snapped a pic on my iPhone. At this point, I am trying not to go postal on these two idiots.

About this time another guy entered the store, and began to look around. It was obvious he had never been there before. He was wearing a “I Love Shea” t-shirt.

“What do you want Shea???”, she yelled at him.

“Uh, I am just looking…”, he remarked.

“Right, Another one. There’s the door”, she said.

From the street his friend exclaimed, “I told you not to go in the store… they are crazy bitches who would spit on you…. They are the laughing stock of the neighborhood.”

About this time, I can’t help myself. I simply burst into laughter. I have to be on some type of Candid Camera show.

But I wasn’t.

“Have a good day, ladies. I’ll find lunch elsewhere”, I remarked.

“You do that, liar. I know your kind…. we don’t want you here”, she yelled.

And with that, I exited the building.

So I guess the moral of the story is, unless you love being abused and crapped on by people who you are trying to give your money to, stay away from Manganaro Grosseria Italiano.

Judging by the large, happy crowd next door, I would recommend the Manganaro HeroBoy place I passed on. Next time, I’ll follow the crowd, delicious smells and common sense….. and not my nostalgic instincts.

After all, I just came in for a sandwich.

BAGEL WATCH: Pick-A-Bagel Rocks

As Bagels Go, This Neighborhood Gem Continues To Shine



I was recently privy to an argument about a bagel chain that was planning on moving into Manhattan to set up shop.

On one side, several people who had enjoyed the bagels abroad (like, uh, in Ohio somewhere) were glad to know they would have a familiar bagel in the city. Please note: I love when those who are not exactly connected to the NYC food scene try and convince NYC foodies that their local chain food can take over Manhattan (Chick-Fil-A not included, of course).

On the other side of the fence, were the New Yorkers who were basically begging them not to come... as a courtesy.

Think about it. Moving to New York to open a bagel shop that is part of a "chain" is like moving to Mexico City and opening a Taco Bell.

Case in point, my bagel shop of the day, Pick-A-Bagel, on 3rd and 23rd. A local gem that cranks out one of the Top 5 bagels in New York City, bar none. (Insert your Top 5 list here).

Now you should know, I love my bagels. I am not the biggest H and H guy in the world, having tasted the incredible bagels served by Tal Bagel (have you had the flat bagels?)... but I love the fact that so many shops in NYC actually make their bagels in house. This is the case at Pick-A-Bagel.

Additionally, these guys can really dress the thing. I'll leave the lox and stuff to my Hebrew brethren... (I just don't have the smoked fish for breakfast thing happening mentally yet) and focus on cream cheese, as well as my fave, the bacon/egg and butter.

If you have spent the last minute reading this, you are one of those people who know that all bagels are not created equal. There are bland bagels, stale bagels, tough bagels... blah, blah, blah.

And then, there are good NYC bagels. Warm or hot.... crusty and crunchy on the outside and chewy perfect on the inside.

This would again, be Pick-A-Bagel.

What sets them apart?

They have a killer assortment of cream cheeses, etc... but who else on the planet sells BACON CREAM CHEESE?

Not kidding. Bacon. Cream. Cheese. And if you can't stomach that, they also have TOFU Cream Cheese. I can't make this up.

So there you have it, Fork New York's Bagel Pick of the Day, Pick-A-Bagel.

(and if you don't like bagels, you can get loaded at the pub next door)



297 3rd Ave
(between 22nd St & 23rd St)
New York, NY 10010
(212) 686-1414

Traveling New York City

Why Hit Europe When You Can Hop In A Cab?



Those of us lucky enough to live in New York know one thing. No matter where you are from, where you have been, or where you want to go, you can almost certainly duplicate any international experience on the island of Manhattan.

On this day in New York, I awoke to find an cool, overcast morning... begging for a day trip somewhere. I usually make an obligatory journey to the West Village (Faicco's, Murrays, etc...) to load up on crunchy aged gouda and parsley and cheese sausage for the grill.... but on this day, I ventured into SoHo where some of the cities best boutique food shops live.

While at this point I could post a list of places to visit that would resemble the yellow pages, I have decided to spend the summer focusing the blog on the secret gems that make New York the greatest food city in the world.

Stop #1?........ one of my favorite bakeries... Once Upon A Tart.

Once Upon A Tart is located on Sullivan Street, just south of Houston, and is spectacular.

Not only do they bake their amazing tarts, muffins and breads on premise... they do it in such simple style, you would easily think you were shopping in the Marais District in Paris. Unlike many bakeries who flood their counters with 100 varieties of good things, Once Upon A Tart uses the less is more approach of "we'll sell you 20 things, and everything you put in your mouth will be extrodinary."

And thats what they do.

On this morning, I choose not to buy a perfect pork, pesto and friseé baguette, homemade madeline or raspberry scone... but a toasty bruschetta layered brushed with fresh tomato compote, thinly sliced rosemary potatoes and roma tomotoes, topped with fresh mozerella.

With a freshly drawn double espresso in hand, I sat in one of the tiny bistro chairs out front and patiently waited for my wife to exit the upscale yarn shop next door. And I waited. And I waited.

Then I couldn't wait anymore... and began to devour what was easily one of the best savory treats I had eaten in recent memory. God I love New York.

The beauty of SoHo and the Village in general is that these shops are more the norm than you would think... and these type of culinary masterpieces can be found in about a 5 minute walk in any direction. But if you are looking for that sweet and savory fix, this is your place.

So there you have it, my first installment of FORK NEW YORK'S Summer in the City Series.... Once Upon A Tart.

I'll see you there.



Once Upon A Tart
135 Sullivan Street
NYC, NY 10012

Open everyday until 7pm, Sunday until 6pm.

Heat Up The Grill

It's Time To Cook With Some Flavor!



Summer is here in NYC.

At least it feels like it. And even though I have been snow-grilling all winter, I am breaking out my favorite recipes and beginning to incorporate my grill into my everyday kitchen recipes.

I know what you are saying…. why is a restaurant blog telling me to stay home and cook?

Well, truth be told, sometimes you just can’t get certain dishes in the city. Sure, there are several joints that do “shrimp and grits”…. but not like this. For this recipe to work, you need to enhance the savory nature of the grits (hence the cream) and create a layer of flavor with the bacon fat. The entire thing is very easy.

I’ll resume my restaurant reviews next week, but in the meantime, enjoy this recipe… one of my favorite Sunday morning brunch treats.



Grilled Shrimp and Charleston Style Cheese Grits

1 cup old fashion grits
Salt and pepper
1/2 cup butter
1 cup half and half
1 cup heavy cream
2 cups shredded sharp Cheddar cheese
1 pound extra large shrimp, peeled and deveined
6 slices bacon, chopped into pieces
4 teaspoons fresh lemon juice
2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley
1 cup thinly sliced green onions, white and green parts
1 large clove garlic, minced


FIRST
In a medium saucepan, bring 2 cups water to a boil. Add the grits and salt and pepper to taste. Stir well with a whisk and thicken. Slowly add half and half, and then heavy cream, stirring all the while. Reduce the heat to the lowest possible setting and cook the grits until all the liquid is absorbed, about 10 to 15 minutes. Stir occasionally. Remove from the heat and stir in the butter and cheese. Keep covered until ready to serve.

THEN
Rinse the shrimp and pat dry. Coat shrimp with olive oil, season with creole seasoning (or at least salt and pepper), and place on medium hot grill until just pink. Remove and bring inside. Fry the bacon in a large skillet until browned and crisp, then drain on a paper towel. Add the shrimp to the bacon grease in the skillet and sauté over medium heat just until they heat through, about 2 minutes. Do not overcook! Immediately add the lemon juice, parsley, green onions, and garlic. Remove the skillet from the heat.

AND FINALLY
Pour the grits into a serving bowl or serving platter. Pour the shrimp mixture over the grits. Garnish with the bacon bits.

BLT Market: New York's Best Brunch?

Bring Your Appetite and Your Visa Card, You'll Need Them Both



The reasons I love BLT Market may be the reasons some hate it.

It’s a tad snobby, a bit touristy, a smidge stuffy and certainly expensive. But if it’s a terrific brunch you’re looking for, you’d be hard pressed to find a better morning than the one that can be had on the edge of Central Park at the Ritz Carlton New York.

My brunch visit to BLT Market was really by mistake, as I was under the silly impression that the restaurant would also offer its standard menu on a Sunday. Not the case. On Sunday, these seats come at a premium, and you’re gonna shell out some decent coin to hang with the big boys. The good news is that you’ll walk away happy having spent your monthly Starbucks budget on what is simply delicious food.

How much are we talking? The brunch at BLT Market will run you anywhere from $38 on up, depending on what you have in mind. The basic omelets, benedicts, etc…. all start here, and our friends at the Ritz add a surcharge for upgrades if you wish to step up to the hanger steak and fancy salads…. which is what we did. Gazing at what our neighbors were ordering, we couldn’t help ourselves. We did the salad thing… but more on that in a minute.

First, the baker. If in fact you choose to order the bread basket, you better be hungry. The problem here is that everything tastes so good, you won’t be nibbling, you’ll be inhaling. This is what happens when expert bakers send warm baskets of croissant, madeleines, danish, muffins, scones, baguettes and pound cake to the table. It is a beautiful pile of goodies and worthy of the trip alone.

Toss in almond brioche french toast, perfect fritattas, buttermilk pancakes, smoked salmon, a decadent croque monsieur and a hamburger the size of a Volvo, and you’ve now got a delimma of just what in the hell to order. The good news is there really is no bad choice.

Back to the salads. My companion ordered a lobster salad, piled about a foot high with freshly poached lobster, watercress, tomato, avaoado, etc… in a homemade buttermilk dressing. She didn’t speak much, as time gabbing would interrupt the assault on the dish. I understood. She was happy happy.

My salad was a crisp, fresh ceasar salad of romaine hearts on top of what was easily the largest piece of chicken I’ve ever seen on a plate. The chicken paillard was pounded delightfully thin, and covered not a plate, but a platter. The warm, lemony chicken proved to be the perfect partner to the salad, and sure enough the dish was just terrific. Everything about it was fresh and homemade… there was care going into the preparation of these dishes and it showed.

Don’t think food is the only thing at BLT that is dressed to impress. The meyer-lemon ginger mimosa was light and refreshing, as well as the pomegranate salsa bloody mary. Sure, these will set you back another $15 bones or so, but hey, you just spent $48 on a salad. Let it go.

I guess by now you can tell I like the food here…. and who wouldn’t. It is everything you look for in the perfect brunch and more. It just costs a small fortune.

So with this knowledge in hand, I approach BLT Market as such.

This can’t be my regular brunch spot… just as I can’t smoke Cuban cigars everyday. But when I am looking for something special… a treat…. this is the place.

If you are going to shell out serious dollars for a serious meal, you expect it to be good… and BLT Market is just plain good. So with any meal or service, you feel good in the afterglow when you believe you got what you paid for.


Let’s tally it up, shall we?

The room: Nebraska farm house meets Martha Stewart with a bucket of yellow paint. Charming and odd, in a good way. Kudos.

The service: Steady and polite, if not a hair slow at times… but professional. Reminded me of just about any Parisian joint on a Sunday morning.

The setting: At the foot of 6th Ave at Central Park couldn’t be better for a post-brunch stroll or carriage ride. Or, hang a right and walk to the Apple Store.

The food: Flawless. This is the level of fare you’d expect from a BLT property, and especially one in the Ritz. I’ll be back.


BLT Market
* American
* 1430 6th Ave, New York 10019
(At Central Park S)
* Phone: (212) 521-6125

Bourbon Street Bar and Grille: A True Louisiana Disaster

AN OPEN INVITATION TO THE OWNERS OF BOURBON STREET



It wasn’t long ago when I sat in my living room on a Sunday morning and exclaimed to my wife… “there is a Louisiana place opening up, and I think this one has a chance to be good.... the chef looks like he is from New Orleans!”

My wife responded, “Please don’t do this…. you know how this turns out. How many times have we been down this road?”

She was right. I had just read that Bourbon Street Bar and Grille (bad name) was opening on restaurant row, and that a chef from New Orleans was in the kitchen. But instead of racing down, I used amazing restraint… I waited for them to get their act together. And waited. And waited.

Until last week. Mardi Gras. I just couldn’t take it anymore. I needed to smell the smells, hear the music, drink the drinks. It was time to head to W. 46th Street and have my first experience at Bourbon Street. Their online ad said “Mardi Gras Celebration… Boiled Crawfish, Jambalaya, Music, etc….”

So I hopped in a cab and away I went, LSU attire and all. It was late afternoon.

Walking into this place, you think, “holy crap, look at this space.” I mean, it is massive… decorated with black iron and dark wood, a massive bar and great furnishings. Someone spent some serious coin on this buildout, which I was hoping meant that the same attention had been taken to the back of the house.

We sat down, and then…. it all went bad.

The music, well, no Neville Brothers. It was the Jonas Brothers.

I ordered a hurricane, which tasted like a batch of bad kool-aid with a shot of rum.

And I ordered the “crayfish”, which came to the table (7 of them, baby sized) swimming in a pool of nasty juice, with pieces of sausage, bay shrimp and corn on the cob that had been chopped into bite sized chunks.

My heart sank and my poor wife stared at me, her eyes welling with true compassion and the words “I told you so” tightly trapped behind her lips.

“Let me know how you like these,” said the server, who had problems pronouncing just about anything remotely Cajun on the menu. “We have a new chef who has never really cooked these, so he is interested to hear what you think.”

Having tasted one taste of these putrid, overcooked, nasty smelling crawfish, I told her politely, “if he’d like to know how to cook these, or anything else on this menu, have him grab a coke and some over to the table. I’d be happy to fill him in on how these are supposed to taste, as well as all of these other dishes.”

And it wasn’t just the crawfish. The menu had some bizarre items as well… and then, basically, just gave up. It was an array of dishes I would never see in Louisiana… or anywhere. When I asked for a shrimp poboy (listed on their website) I was informed they didn't make them anymore.

"I guess they were not very popular," she said. "Wow," I said.


So much for the New Orleans chef. I learned from our clueless server that he had left the restaurant, and was no longer affiliated with Bourbon Street, nor were his recipes. It was making perfect sense, as I could have had a more authentic experience eating the Cajun feast at TGIFridays.

But sitting in this fantastic space, I couldn’t help but think to myself…. what if this place really had great food. Forget the gimmicks and garbage on your menu… it is obvious that the bar business is your bread and butter. What if you had a menu like George’s in Baton Rouge…. amazing poboys, gumbos, red beans…. just solid staples. Or Mother’s in New Orleans. Killer sandwiches, simple blue plate specials. Make it authentic. God forbid you actually have a menu that could be compared to the legendary Uglesich's, that closed a few years ago, after nearly 80 years in the business.

I also wondered if the management knew that a menu like that would greatly reduce their labor cost and also give them a greater margin with their food cost. And oh yea, would give them great food.

I know, because I ran a restaurant with the exact same menu as a Mother's, and operated at a food cost of nearly 23%. And, we often had an hour wait to get a table.

So, friends at Bourbon Street…. before you are death-watched, before you begin stiffing your vendors, before you start looking for more money…. I am offering you this…. an OPEN INVITATION to let me help you fix your mess.

I will gladly come in, look at your kitchen, access your current menu (this I have already done, and it is a mess), and give you a tight, delicious, authentic menu that will resonate with any person who has ever traveled to Louisiana.

Having owned 2 restaurants and consulting on several others, this is an offer you should really consider before dismissing. I don’t want anything in return. I’m just sick and tired of watching people throw away this kind of investment because they didn’t know what the hell they were doing in the kitchen. So suck it up, realize your problem, and get some help. And it doesn’t have to be me…. just get someone who has operated a Louisiana kitchen… and rethink what your menu “has” to be. You’d be surprised at how simple a menu can be when authenticity is at the core of every bite. Keep it simple.

What will happen?

The word of mouth on the street will be that Bourbon Street has fantastic food. That the poboys taste like those at Domilise’s… or George’s…. or Maspero.

This isn’t hard food to prepare or serve to the masses. But if you want to really live up to your name…. you’ve got to quit pretending you know what you are doing and ask for some help.

So, another Mardi Gras passes, and I am left in the streets of Chelsea missing my Louisiana once again. I quietly wander into the kitchen, put on a pot of rice and contemplate what’s for dinner. Maybe some of this shrimp and okra gumbo in my freezer? Maybe some shrimp etouffee? Perhaps some grits and ham?

Whatever the choice, I am comfortable in the fact that in New York City…. the best creole or Cajun food to be found, is in my own kitchen. I just wish I had some competition.

Center Cut: An Explosion of Average

Expecting More, A Night That Resulted in Blah



Unlike other bloggers and food reviewers, I’ve never been a Jeffrey Chodorow hater. Sure, our favorite convicted felon has had a few bombs, but he has also had a few spots that remain popular in the city which in this day and age is an accomplishment. Not that I am a huge China Grill fan (my last visit uncovered one of the worst meals I have had since I moved to NYC), but I do adore the plantain fried rice at Asia de Cuba and have had many a fun night dancing away at Rum Jungle in Las Vegas.

So when I venture into a Chodorow spot these days, I enter with an open mind and neutral palate. My last experience at a China Grill Management store was the newish “Center Cut” at the Empire Hotel…. on Valentines Day.

Having owned 2 restaurants, I am big on details. Let’s start with a greeting and the girl at the door.

The week prior to my reservation, which was early (before 7), I was called not once, but twice to confirm I was coming, and that I WOULD BE ON TIME. Both times, I said “of course”, and sure enough, that evening, I arrived 5 minutes early for the rezo.

RULE # 1 : IF YOU HAVE THE BALLS TO CALL A PATRON TWICE TO MAKE SURE THEY ARRIVE ON TIME, DON’T MAKE THEM WAIT 30 MINUTES FOR A TABLE ON VALENTINES DAY WHILE THEY SIT IN THE BAR AND WATCH EVERYONE ELSE EAT THEIR DINNER.

Once we did get a table, we encountered a friendly waitperson who was there physically, but not mentally. It was clear that she would rather be on a date herself on Valentine’s Day… so we got a strange vibe from her all evening. This was clearly a person who would rather be someplace else.

Regarding the food, I found all of our dishes average and sometimes a smidge better than average. The problem is, nothing was wow.

The problem with that, is NYC is wow. Restaurants with longevity in the city are wow. Wait staffs are wow. The food is wow. The night is wow.

Great food, staff and ambiance can often makeup for miscues at the door and long waits… but on this night, it was apparent that retribution on this level would not be mine.

I won’t describe each and every bite of the evening, but I will walk you through the following:

The Bread: Fresh Popovers… well prepared and quite good.

Salads: Heirloom Salad and Lobster Stuffed Mushroom Caps…. Salad was very average with somewhat mealy tomatoes and the mushroom caps were overpriced and average at best.

Side Dishes: The Creamed Spinach & Artichoke Pie is a gimmick…. and dominates the table. The Corn and Manchego gratin was well prepared and a solid dish.

Steaks: The Steak Oscar was average and included crabmeat that had a strong scent of the ocean…. This wasn’t fresh jumbo lump. Perhaps my days growing up in South Louisiana and dinners at Commander's Palace have jaded my view of all crabmeat? My companion had a steak from the ala carte menu that was prepared to her liking, but again, didn’t set the world on fire. I would say this flavor and grade of beef would rank a notch below craftsteak or Quality Meats.

Dessert: the menu looked decent (a lot of tableside flambé) but by this time, we wanted to bolt. It was an espresso and see ya later.

THE FINAL WORD: I love the Empire Hotel, the vibe, the rooftop bar, the locale. The addition of Center Cut is just bizarre. You can’t open a blah spot and think it can keep up with the hip vibe of the space that surrounds it. And oh yea, NYC doesn’t need more steakhouses. This could have been a real showcase spot for nearly any other type of store with a great menu…. So while I’m not putting it on Deathwatch, I would be shocked to see the store gain a loyal clientele when I can’t be seated within 30 minutes of a reservation I booked a month in advance. Additionally, as much as I like long meals, this night bordered on a hijacking. It was nearly 2.5 hours before the steak arrived, and so drawn out that I couldn’t wait to leave.

I'm still not a Chodorow hater.... I'd just like to go to dinner in New York at one of his restaurants and walk away saying.... wow.

It's Time For King Cake

For Me, February Means Mardi Gras, Shrimp PoBoys and King Cake

Growing up in South Louisiana, I never knew how good I had it.

I mean I was already surrounded by great food and amazing culture, but Mardi Gras? Well, imagine an entire holiday centered around a dozen parties, 14 parades, 300 pounds of beads and all the food you can eat... and throw in a holiday from school (yes, Fat Tuesday is an official State holiday) and you have the world's greatest celebration.

And then there is the King Cakes.

King Cake and Mardi Gras go together like Red Beans and Rice. You simply can't get away from them during the Lenten season, and ever since I left my dear Louisiana, I've shipped them up to avoid withdrawals.

My very favorite King Cakes come from New Orleans... and an amazing bakery in Baton Rouge named Ambrosia. This bakery is arguably the best in Baton Rouge, and their King Cakes are out of this world.... and available for you to ship overnight.


What to Order?

I would highly recommend you order not one, but two. First, the fruit filled King Cake, with either Raspberry and Cream Cheese or Strawberry.... and last, the Pecan Praline which is sinful. Both come freshly shipped overnight and my guests devoured both last weekend, so I can attest – these are crowd pleasers.

To order your very own slice of heaven, click here. To learn even more about why we eat King Cakes, click here.

Happy Mardi Gras everyone...

Today We Celebrate.... POPCORN!!

I Admit It, I Am An Addict


Today is National Popcorn Day, according to the Popcorn Board, which is good enough for me. They have a bunch of popcorn recipes here, along with history and FAQ's about the stuff. We can't live without popcorn. It's essential for the movies, of course. But it's also helpful when you're trying to lose weight (have you not tried the popcorn diet?). The Boy Scouts sell popcorn to raise money every year; their microwave popcorn is the best I ever had. Lest you pooh-pooh that, know that popcorn was the first food tested in a microwave oven. At Rio Mar in New Orleans, Chef Adolfo Garcia serves popcorn with the Panamanian isotope of his ceviche selection. He says that's traditional in Panama. Hell, I own a commercial popcorn machine and keep it in my apartment here in New York.

Popcorn has become such a popular snack in so many forms that a great deal of study has been applied to it. The most fascinating to me was explained by Orville Redenbacher, when he appeared on a radio show a long time ago. He said some kernels pop into something like mushrooms (rounded pieces) and others into what the industry calls butterflies, with "wings" curling away from the center. Orville, who did a lot of popcorn research, said that the mushrooms look better but the butterflies taste better.

Regardless, today we celebrate. I just love the stuff.


Delicious-Sounding Places
Popcorn, Indiana is in the southern part of Indiana, just north of the Grits Line. (That means the standard combination breakfast found in roadside cafes will include not grits, but hash browns.) It's also seventy-four miles southwest of Indianapolis. It's well out in the middle of farmland, which does indeed grow its namesake variety of maize. In fact, a company there has built a brand out of the town's name, and has a website telling about their corn and the history of the town. It is, of course, www.popcornindiana.com. If popcorn doesn't satisfy your appetite, it's about a four-mile drive up Popcorn Church Road to Arthur's Corner Cafe in Springville.


Edible Dictionary
popcorn, n.--A variety of corn (maize) whose kernels have a center of soft, moist starch surrounded by hard starch. When the corn is heated, the moisture in the center heats beyond the boiling point of water, When it finally boils, it does so suddenly and completely, its gases expanding with such force (almost ten times normal atmospheric pressure) that it puffs up the hard starch and makes it blow out of the hull. The main tricks behind excellent popcorn for the growers is to let it dry until the hulls are hard, and growing the right variety of corn. Popcorn has been known for thousands of years, and was very familiar to Native Americans. It seems always to have been a source of delight and festivity.


Today's Cooking Tip: Don't let anybody tell you that better popcorn can be made in a pan than in a microwave oven. It was once true, but is no longer. Unless you have an industrial-strength popper.

Andre On The Go: LA Pt. 2

Where: Izaka- Ya by Katsu-Ya on 3rd Street

What: Spicy Tuna on Crispy Rice

Rating: 9.5 This is the stuff. The original roll that started it
all.... Simply amazing. Also available at Koi in NYC.

Andre On The Road : LA

What: Buttery Belgian Waffle with Roasted Pecans

Where: The French Crepe Co. at The Farmers Market

Rating: 8.5 - truly relish. Every trip to LA must include a stop at
the market for breakfast!

Announcing: THE 2008 FORKIE AWARDS

You’ve waited all year, and here they are… in all of their glory!





What the hell are the Forkies?

Well, the Forkies are the awards delved out by myself, sole owner and proprietor of Fork New York. I spend all year roving the city looking for good eats, and well... this is where I can share with you what I think is the best of the best. Lets get started.

To view the 2006 Forkies (there was no 2007).... click here!

To view the 2008 Top 10 Dishes Not To Miss.... click here!

To view the 2008 Top 10 Dishes Under $10... click here!


Best Steakhouse in New York City

This is a debate that will never see a clear cut winner… but for my money in this year, the winner is CRAFTSTEAK. With perfect bone marrow, a killer wine list (many by the glass), both corn and grass fed beef and the most incredible mushrooms in Manhattan, this place is simply pushing all of my buttons.

Runner(s) Up: Keen’s, Quality Meats


Best Chinese Food In Manhattan:

Easy. Szechuan Gourmet on West 39th is making some of the best Chinese food, well, anywhere. Yes, it is somewhat of a hole in the wall… but when you walk in for pork dumplings in chili oil and see Matthew and Sara Jessica noshing in the corner, the place must be doing something right.

Runner Up: Wu Liang Ye (midtown location)


Best Street Food:

Tough one. Of course the famous Chicken and Rice Cart at 53rd and 6th holds a special place in my heart… but the truth is the Biryani Cart on 46th and 6th has claimed my #1 spot this year, simply for their perfect, buttery King Koti rolls.

Runner Up: Moishe’s Falafel (east side of 46th and 6th)


Best Morsel To Put In Your Mouth:

Easy. Ever had a rice ball from Faicco’s Pork Store in the West Village? If not, quit reading this blog, hop in a cab and get there. These gems are fantastic right of the deli shelf in this Italian butcher shop… but even better is getting them home into a warm oven and serving them with a little homemade marinara on the side.

Runner Up: Hen of the Woods Mushrooms at Craftsteak


Best Pizza – Non-Traditional:

And the winner is….. Two Boots. I was sad to see the Rockefeller Plaza store close, but thrilled when I moved to Chelsea and realized they now delivered to my door. The toppings are amazing, but even better is the crunchy, sandy, cornmeal crust.


Best Pizza – Traditional:

Yes they are a dime a dozen, but my money is on the Grandma’s slice at Rosa’s Pizza on 27th and 7th. Ive always loved their stuff but when my movers told me that they drive in from Brooklyn for the stuff, I stopped what I was doing and ordered a large.


Most Delicious and Filling Sandwich:

For those who need 2 pounds of food in their stomach, head to Olympic Pita… the schwarma and falafel masterpiece on 38th. Their pita is good, but their homemade lafa bread, fired in their own stone ovens… are amazing. Filled with hummus, fresh chicken, red cabbage and onions…. well, there you have it.

Runner Up: The #1 Combo from Lenny’s (any location).


Best Sweets:

Beard Papas Cream Puffs. Don’t get me started.


Best Hunk of Cheese to Impress:

And the Forkie goes to…. Murrays Cheese in the West Village, and their wheel of Roomano. That’s right, ROOMANO… and aged gouda with crunchy flecks of magic. Teamed with Eli’s Rosemary and Olive Crackers (also sold there) and you’ve got one heck of an appetizer at your next shindig.

Runner Up: Robusto, at Whole Foods in Time Warner Center, anything from Artisinal



Best Restaurant Appetizer:

Italian eatery Cesca on West 75th has been a neighborhood mainstay for years… and while they aren’t known as an “elite” destination, their Cauliflower Fritti may be one of the best dishes in New York City. Think crisp, fresh cauliflower, delicately battered and fried, sprinkled with fresh lemon juice and served piping hot. For me, a cocktail and a bowl of this stuff is all I really need in life.



Best Baked Item:

Love them or hate them, Empanada Joe’s has an impressive little pie that can hit the spot. Although some of the flavors can be hit or miss, the beef are worth the trip and are sold in boxes of a dozen if you have a crowd at home.

Runner Up: Cheese puffs from Murray’s Cheese



Best Turkish Joint Nobody Knows About:

I still believe Zeytin is serving NY’s best Turkish food, but Akdeniz on West 46th is a terrific place to discover. Their falafel is moist and crisp, their hummus tangy and nearly perfect… and their kababs delicious. The kicker? It’s all affordable.



Best Item to Bring Home and Grill:

I hesitate to write this, as I consider it my secret… but the parsley and cheese sausage at Faicco’s Pork Store in the West Village (home of the rice ball) may be the best sausage in New York City, period. Buy it in their “ring”, bring it home and grill it. The flavor is one of a kind… and that’s coming from a crazy sausage eating Cajun like myself.

Runner Up: Dry Aged Rib Eye Steak from Ottamanelli's on Bleeker.



Best Falafel:

The king, and still champion… Maoz. With a new location on the Upper West Side, more New Yorkers are starting to become believers. If you haven’t tried it, you owe it to yourself to make a visit.

Runner Up: Olympic Pita



Best Slice of Old New York:

Keen’s may have years of history… but a trip to Frankie and Johnnie's in Midtown is like falling into one of the Godfather movies. Yes, years ago you needed to whisper a password through the front door… but today, after a climb up the stairs – a delicious pre-theatre steak awaits… and a decent crabmeat cocktail at that.

Runner Up: Peter Lugar in Brooklyn.



Best Bar to Close A Deal:

Stone Rose in the Time Warner Center may be the sexiest bar in Manhattan. The drinks are crazy expensive, but the view over Central Park is worth the coin…. and the snacks are good as well.

Runner Up: Mini Bar at The Muse on 46th.

Let The Mobile Blogging Begin!

That's right... Fork New York has gone mobile! So stay tuned for faster updates about all of your favorite eats in and around NYC!

Andre

Danku: Not For Me

As the fast food craze continues, Danku sets up shop and looks for their crowd....




As I have mentioned before, I am all about fast food. Especially fried food. I am from Louisiana. We fry food, then we fry it again.

That's why when I saw that Danku, the new sudo-euro-strangemenu-thingy opened in midtown, I was excited. Yum! Fried stuff.

Well, the excitement didn't last.

What I learned was that the fried egg roll looking thingy was actual a Kroket... a food I was familiar with traveling in Northern Europe... and not that fond of.

What is a kroket? Well, picture this.... a large, egg roll shaped object, fried crispy on the outside, filled with raw goo. And when I say raw goo, I mean pasty, snotty, raw flavored goo.

Danku offers many flavors of their raw goo rolls.... beef, chicken curry, salmon dill, mac and cheese (they were out of this one), spinach and artichoke... you get the picture.

To make matters worse, they offer these in a "meal deal" with a fancy boxed salad.


Let me first say that while I wasn't thrilled that the kroket had emerged in the USA, I went in with an open mind (and palate). Surely, you can make a kroket 10 different ways? But sure enough, this was the same kroket that I had tasted in Amsterdam, and thought... ugggh. That's when I hit the Maoz stand and became a lifelong fan of their falafel, the best in the world.

While I am no big fan of the kroket (and I eat everything fried mind you) the rest of the menu looked ok.... a few satay choices, some salads and sandwiches, etc..... lots of organic garb. But when you hang your hat on serving the kroket, well, you have a problem.




So the final grade? Well, for the kroket itself, I bestow a healthy D+, as while this isn't my thing you may certainly have a taste for these. For the rest of the joint, when you take away the kroket, it becomes one of a hundred "healthy choice" stores that litter Manhattan.

Danku
47 W 57th St - Btwn 5th & 6th Ave
New York, NY 10019

212 888-3777

FORK GOES FAST FOOD

With A Glut Of New Joints, Let's Take A Look At Who's Making A Mark


Let's face it, we all do it. Sure, I'd like to tell you I had a Chef Salad for lunch, but the truth is I likely had 2 King-Koti Rolls from the Biryani Cart on 46th and 6th.

Fast food, cart food, you name it.... is part of our lives. From the celebrated "regular slice" to the Grays Papaya Hot Dog, NY is famous for fast eats.... and now the marketplace is changing.

For some reason, fast food concepts like trying out their wares in Manhattan. I'm not completely sure why, as New Yorkers can be the most difficult to please in the world... but as the song says "if I can make it there, I'll make it anywhere".

To begin my series on funky new fast food joints, I'll begin with a food that is near and dear to my heart.

Empanadas.

Two weeks ago I was a few blocks west of the office and stumbled upon the new chain of sublime fried pies, "Empanada Joes".

Let me first qualify these remarks by letting you know that I basically exist for anything a. in the shape of a dumpling or pie, and b. fried, baked or steamed in any way (this would include deep fried, pan fried, wok steamed, boiled in butter, etc, etc).

Let's break it down shall we?

THE JOINT

Empanada Joes is a sterile, funky little space. There is no thoughts of a far away land (or even Mexico) and certainly no romance here. There isn't even a comfy seat... but I am guessing they planned it that way - eat your stuff and kindly get out. Grade: C-

THE ATTITUDE

People at the location I went to were overly friendly... which in New York, could get you killed. It is the ultimate cheese factor when management insists you greet some guy at the door 30 feet away with a "Hi, What Can I Get You", when you can't even see the freaking menu much less have a plan of action. Grade D

THE MENU

The menu is poorly designed and conceived. They basically offer an array of empanadas you can order ala carte or with possibly the worst tasting, undercooked side dishes ever created. The menu doesn't offer as many meal options as you would like, or add-ons (extra this or that, without ordering a whole new meal)... and for this they are losing money. GRADE: C-

THE FOOD

Well, here comes the good news. Aside from the side dishes.... and I'll expand here.... a black bean and rice dish that was described as well seasoned if not spicy, was actually unedible.... and nearly frozen as it had been in the cold case for a day or two..... anyway, ASIDE from the side dishes, the empanadas are solid. These pies aren't "oh my god pull the car over there is an Empanada Joe's" good, but I would certainly consider grabbing a dozen of these for a football party.

I had two pies, one Argentine Beef which was very good.... and one "CheeseSteak" which was average, and had nothing to do with a cheese steak in anyway. The verdict?
FOOD: B (except the sides, that get an F)

THE FINAL TALLY

This is a good effort and idea, but these guys need to forget about the bells and whistles and sell freaking empanadas. You should have about 20 different ways to order as many or as few as you want in a value pack, and they should give the nutritional/healthy spin that surrounds this place a rest. Note to Empanada Joe's: YOU SELL EMPANADAS. This eat beautiful, feel beautiful ad campaign you have needs to be rethought. I don't know about you, but after I eat 4 or 5 large empanadas, I don't feel beautiful.

OVERALL: C+ Go for the pie, and forget the rest. And oh yea... get it to go.


UPDATE!!!!! UPDATE!!!! UPDATE!!!!!!

After being contacted by Empanada Joes (who were not actually thrilled by this post) I stand corrected... the pies are actually baked, not fried. So , I offer and extra kudos for their ability to bake and NOT fry these tasty treats..... but please, fix your side dishes... they are still unedible.



NEXT UP: MY LUNCH AT DANKU; WHAT THE HELL AM I EATING?

The Dishes That Make New York Great

It May Not Always Be A Restaurant That Makes Your Head Spin In NYC



I consider myself a street scavenger. No matter where I am walking, in any neighborhood... I am fascinated with what people are eating. Local stores, food carts, butcher shops... you name it. It's this food that becomes the fabric of the neighborhood... and shapes the tastes of a community.

For over 107 years, Faicco's Butcher Shop in the West Village has been that place. Situated about 10 feet west of the famous "Murray's" cheese shop on Bleeker Street, Faicco's has remained a constant in a city of change. I can only hope they are around for another 107.

What makes Faicco's great is the pride and skill behind their products. From trimmed pork products to incredible homemade sausages (cheese and parsley which is incredible, broccoli rabe... and sweet italian with fennel to name a few) Faicco's has separated itself from the local butcher shop to a gourmet destination.

As much as I love everything these guys make and sell… the dish that stands out are Faicco's “rice balls”…. known to the world as arancini. It’s hard to convey just how incredible these are, but I can tell you that I have made trips to Faicco's just to buy a bag of them… and from what I can tell, their appeal is no secret to the locals.

What is a rice ball? Well, for any hushpuppy loving Cajun like myself, it is a bite of pure ecstasy. Imagine a perfectly shaped ball (slightly larger than a golf ball and just as heavy), filled with creamy rice and mild Italian cheese, lightly breaded and fried. Hell, I guess it’s the Italian version of the hushpuppy.

How you enjoy this little dude is up to you. The preferred way is to heat them in the oven until warm, and served with a little fresh marinara over the top or on the side (Faicco's sells them room temp in the store). My problem is I can rarely get them home.

These are so good, I usually just rip the bag open and begin eating them right there on the sidewalk in front of the store. Last weekend I got them home, but was so excited I ate the bag before the oven could preheat.

It is truly, one of the best dishes in New York City, and for .75 cents a pop, a good deal at that. If you are having a dinner party anytime soon, these should be secret weapon #1.

By the way, a trip to Faicco's can be about more that pork and rice balls…. their Italian market is charming and offers an array of imported items (from pasta to good tomatoes) to have you cooking all weekend.

So now you know. Faicco's. Just another gem that makes NYC the best place to eat in the world. I’ll see ya there (I’ll be the guy eating rice balls on the street).

Address-
260 Bleeker Street
NYC, NY
212-243-1974



Photos courtesy of Roadfood.com

MAOZ COMES TO THE UPPER WEST

It’s crowded, confusing and annoying, but it’s still the best falafel in NYC



Being a resident of the Upper West Side for nearly 3 years, I’ve watched in amazement as the area continues to turn into a NYC food destination.

Sure, the opening of the Time Warner Center was the spark, but then entered noted chefs, long time brands, and even…. well, even Shake Shack.

What this means is that the overall feeling towards dining on the Upper West has changed, and so have the people who call it home. Instead of moderately priced average tasting fare, Upper West Siders have made it clear… cook well and we will pay. Hence, the onslaught of swanky new digs (Bar Boulud, Bloomingdale Road, etc).


Well, when the big boys move in and set up shop, so do the less-expensive newbies such as international vegetarian chain Maoz. I have been a long time Maoz lover, having had my first delish falafel outside the train station in Amsterdam about 4 years ago. Since then, Maoz has expanded their euro operation into the US market, and NYC has been the beneficiary of a few locations, including their newest at 70th and Amsterdam.

It took about 24 hours after opening for me to make my way to the new store, a much closer jaunt for me from my UWS digs than the tiny Maoz that opened on Union Square, some 75 blocks south… about a year ago.


As with any opening, there is good and bad, so here we go:


THE GOOD

Well, it’s Maoz. This is the most flavorful, best tasting falafel in New York, period. You may find larger (Moshe Cart on 46th) or cheaper (just about anywhere) but this recipe works so well it converted even me, lover of all meat and seafood, to crave the stuff.

Even better is the homemade bread, and veggie bar, that exists for you to dress YOUR falafel, the way YOU want it. It’s the old “Have It Your Way” Burger King idea, except you dress the thing… more like the old “Burger Chef” chain…. Remember Burger Chef and Jeff? Crap, I’m getting old.

The Belgian fries are good if you eat in… but not so good if you take them home, unless soggy is your thing.

THE BAD

Well, this store needs to get its act together. The lines are long. The menu is confusing as hell. People have no idea how to order. There is no method or flow at the veggie bar, so it is chaos getting to it, and then making your falafel. It’s expensive. The wait is too long.


THE VERDICT


I don’t care. I’m such an addict I would wait for an hour in a blizzard for the stuff. But what I do hope (and have no reason not to believe) is that they get their act together like the Union Square store, and make the place run smoothly.





BONUS

Want a bonus? The store is next door to PinkBerry. It’s falafel and fro-yo on the go-go.

Welcome to the UWS, Maoz. It’s great to have you as a neighbor!

Patsy's Is The New KING OF PIZZA in NYC

It Really Is The Best Pie In New York City



It's wasn't long ago when a friend of mine and I were talking food, and the subject of pizza came up.

"Well, Mr. Fork New York, where do you go?", he remarked.

This is a trick question. Everyone in NY knows there are literally 10 places to get world class pie from... so I thought carefully before I responded.

"Grimaldi's", I answered.

But I was lying. I could have said DiFara, John's, Daniello's, Otto... well, you get the picture.

It was then he confessed to me that he believed the best pizza in the city is on the Upper West Side at Patsy's.

I dismissed this claim until a month ago, when sure enough I found myself walking down the street in front of the very same Patsy's he had anointed King Of Pizzas.

So, of course, I went in.

From the moment I walked through the door, I knew I was in trouble. The smell was fantastic... the crowd was buzzing... the pizzas were flying around the room, landing on small stands that were hovering 10 inches about the tables. Cold Stella filled old draft mugs.

Quickly I sat down, and got started with a terrific arugula salad. (warning, this salad can feed a family of four and still give you enough for a doggie bag home).

But before I ruined my appetite, I ordered a sausage and onion pizza... and waited in expectation.

In 20 minutes, the pizza arrived.... and the rest is a blur.

This was one of the best pizza's I've ever tasted... not just in NYC.... but anywhere.

The crust was perfect... thin, crispy and worthy of holding onto the toppings without falling apart.

The toppings were homemade and terrific. The sauce delicious balance of sweet and bold... and the cheese obviously homemade. The wood burning oven was magical and I could taste the amazing aroma of the oven.

How had I missed this in the past?

I devoured this poor pizza, who didn't have a chance.

So, here, I now profess.... Patsy' as the best pizza in Manhattan.

Until I find the next joint.



61 W 74th St
New York 10023
(Btwn CPW & Columbus Ave)

Phone: (212) 579-3000
Fax:(212) 579-7075

CAJUN BREAKTHROUGH

Holy Crap, Those People Are Deep Frying Sausage.... Thank God



Leave it to the folks in South Louisiana to push the envelope of culinary creativity.

On my recent escapade to the hot, sticky land we call South Louisiana, I happened upon a new boudin "treatment" that I just have to share.

As many of you who love cajun food know, the "boudin ball" has become a Baton Rouge/New Orleans staple. Plain and simple, a boudin ball is a ball of rice and meat (boudin sausage filling), rolled into the size of a traditional hushpuppy, and deep fried. Most credit the birth of the commercial boudin ball to Tony's Seafood Market, on Plank Road in Baton Rouge. Today, you can find them in hundreds of markets, restaurants and gas stations.

What I learned over the weekend was that you didn't need to shape and fry and boudin ball to enjoy fried boudin.

My friends at Bellue's, a cajun company that primarily makes ready to prepare cajun foods in Baton Rouge, has launched their own fried boudin treat...but not a ball.

It's the entire link.

That's right, you remove the casing, and deep fry the entire sausage link. What you get is a hot and crispy link, slightly crunchy on the outside and moist and hot in the middle. It's genius.

As I quizzed the kitchen staff at Bellue's, they confessed there wasn't much to the magic... they simply removed the casing and fried at room temp. Having fried many a boudin ball in my day, I found this hard to believe (these things like to cook apart)... but they showed me first hand their process... and sure enough, it worked.

As I haven't been in Louisiana on a regular basis for a while, I'm not sure if this method has spread throughout cajun country... but I am guessing it may very well have.

It just goes to show you, there is always something new happening with food down south. This just happens to be my cup of tea.



To read about the best boudin in the world, visit my favorite site on the subject, and what makes their boudin the best.....

(by the way, you can order delicious boudin and jalapeno cheese bread from Bourque's, but the best boudin on this planet is made at Jerry Lee's Kwik Stop)


CAJUN ALERT

If you happen to be driving through the Scott, Louisiana area anytime soon, I would highly recommend you stop your damn car, get out, and eat one of these.



That's right, it's the greatest Pork Chop Sandwich on the planet. A perfect chop.... marinated, seasoned and resting quietly between two pieces of innocent white bread. This is just about as good as it gets.

You can find 'em at Don's Specialty Meats... tell 'em Andre sent ya.

The Best Italian in Manhattan?

Andre's Favorite Italian "Traditional" Restaurant of the Year is Da Umberto



As a true Pastafarian, I have long said that there is amazing italian in the most unlikely places....

Sometimes, you have to scream it from the rafters.

There are restaurants in NYC that actual do italian as well as Mario :)

One of my very favorites may in fact be one of, if not the best in NYC..... I visited Da Umberto several months ago, and here is what I thought then.... and now.




Fork New York: The Archive

Before I actually lived in New York, I questioned if in fact New York was the best restaurant city in the world. I had traveled to London, Paris, Tokyo, Rome, Berlin and others.... and had lived in Chicago and Los Angeles... not to mention growing up 60 miles from New Orleans. But after moving to NYC several years ago, it didn't take long for the realization to set in... NYC is simply the best restaurant city in the world.

A constant reminder of this realization occured only days ago, as I visited a remarkable Italian restaurant... that in many cities would be considered "the best" in town. Of course in New York, it is "one of the best".

The spot?... Da Umberto, the classic destination in Chelsea. And surprise, surprise. This joint isn't owned and operated by Super Mario.

Simply put, Da Umberto is the type of restaurant that makes NYC great. It is unassuming, unpretentious, truly authentic and incredibly delicious. Here's the skinny.

Those NY'ers that are keen to tricks and gadgets will smile at the door of Da Umberto's. Why? At the door you aren't greeted by a hostess stand or stuffy waiter.. but a coat rack. That's right, your are in the foyer of someone's home, and that's how you are made to feel. Come on in.

After a glass of prosecco at the bar (thank you Rocco), we made our way into the middle of the deep, narrow dining room to find a spacious spot. The three of us settled in and began to try and figure out where in the hell those amazing smells were coming from.

With one of our party having a good deal of Da Umberto experience, he put the evening in the hands of our terrific waiter. The waiter suggested a menu of many tastes... a plate of mixed grilled and marinated vegetables (Da Umberto antipasto) with a sauteed jumbo shrimp in garlic cream and a smoky, grilled baby squid that was out of this world.



Next, a plate of sliced proscuitto (perfect), sopressata (one of my favorites), mortadella (simple) and chunks of aged parmigiano reggiano (very high quality, with some salty crystals lurking within).

Not to miss a sampling of pasta, we all received a small plate of remarkable bites... the first, a handmade mushroom ravioli topped with black truffle cream... along side a spaghetti with fresh tomatoes rendered in pancetta fat. Outstanding.

As good as the first three course were, the meats and fish to come were worth waiting for.

The veal milanese, pounded thin, breaded and pan fried was topped with a saute of cherry tomatoes and arugula. The sweet tomatoes and peppery arugula were terrific... but after one bite of the tender veal I realized the cutlet had been fried in pure butter. Wow.

Not to be outdone, my colleagues enjoyed a venison osso bucco... rich and tender over a bed of perfect risotto... and a whole roasted monk fish, grilled to perfection on the bone. Topped with lemon and thyme, the dish was truly authentic and tasted as good as it smelled.


Desert looked amazing... a cart of treats including a 10 pound bowl of tiramisu... a gigantic offering unlike anything I had ever seen. Next visit, I'll remember this and try and save room.

So by now you are likely getting the drift that I like... no love, Da Umberto's. When you combine terrific staff, feel, food and ambiance, it's hard to miss. No, this isn't a cheap night (think $60-80 per person without wine)... but the dinner tab will cost you much less than a trip to Rome. Of course, a few bottles of wine and you could fly coach to Venice, but I'll leave that up to you.

Additionally, you should be dressed. One thing I noticed was there were no slackers waiting for a table, and the crowd was dressed to kill. Nice.

Lastly, call ahead. This isn't a place you can just "drop in" on and get a killer table. This is a special place, so treat it as such.

When the holiday season rolls around, I take time to thank my lucky stars for the things in this life that make me truly happy.


Thank you Da Umberto's....

Ocean Grill: A Neighborhood Favorite Shines

It's An Upper West Secret, And Folks Around Here Like It That Way


Without question, the Upper West Side restaurant scene is again a hot topic. With spots like The Mermaid Inn, Dovetail, Bar Boulud and Eighty One getting mucho press, it would seem that the area is evolving into…. wait for it…. a destination-filled neighborhood of quality eateries. Is there really a Shake Shack on the horizon?

Truth be told, there are many solid places to eat on the Upper West…. and even though the area gets hammered by the culinary elite, the locals above 59th like to keep secrets to themselves. One of those secrets may very well be Ocean Grill.

Being from South Louisiana, I’ve never been motivated to eat fish in a restaurant located farther than 75 miles from the Gulf of Mexico. Having grown up eating fresh red snapper, drum, grouper, croaker, etc…. I have come to love fish that don’t taste like, well, fish.

But being hungry for a shellfish dinner this weekend, I happily rolled into Ocean Grill (a BR Guest Restaurant) and decided to approach this “north of the border” spot with an open mind.

I was pleasantly surprised.

First, Ocean Grill is a handsome spot. You can dress down, but with a sleek décor you may not want to…. as I noticed most of the people coming in were dressed for dinner.

The menu is a bit strange at first, as most traditional seafood restaurants don’t usually offer sushi, sashimi and maki rolls…. but then it makes sense. If you have a place full of fresh fish, why wouldn’t you serve sushi?

The menu also offers a list of tempting appetizers that include the obligatory Maryland Crab Cake and Fried Calmari, but it was the Bamboo Steamed Shrimp Dumplings (a very close cousin to those found at sister restaurant Ruby Foo’s) that did it for me. Served with a ginger soy sauce and full of freshly minced shrimp, they were a great start.

It was about this time my ordering veered away from standard fare, and went the way of the shellfish.

Next we enjoyed a large platter of Jonah Crab Claws. A pound of these, about 25 claws laid over a bed of crushed ice ($41), were reminiscent of the stone crab claws made famous at Joe’s, one of our Miami favorites. Served with both cocktail and seasoned mayo, the waiter suggested and delivered a cup of melted butter that elevated the dish another notch. These were delicious, and could be a reason we swing by another day for an afternoon treat.

The main course was just arriving, and as you might have guessed, we stayed the course and ordered a couple of 2-pound lobsters. The fine folks at Ocean Grill will either steam, broil or grill your lobster, and we chose the traditional steamed version, likely out of habit. They will also shell and clean your lobster, an option I highly recommend if it’s one of those days you don’t feel like getting your hands dirty.

The lobsters were quite good… firm and tender, prepared just right. Served with roasted fingerling potatoes and garlicky broccoli rabe, the dish didn’t disappoint.

Those who come to Ocean Grill looking for fish will find numerous options, including roasted cod, horseradish crusted salmon, a familiar Chilean Sea Bass, big eye tuna and a crabmeat crusted mahi-mahi. All of these looked great strolling past us, but none made us think twice about the lobster dinner we were devouring.

Deserts are another story, as the list was inventive and impressive. Topping the list was a chocolate fondue that made saying no just a bit more painful…. But we were glad we passed as a perfect draw of espresso was all we needed to cap a perfect early supper.

As we were exiting the space, the hostess presented us with a few treat to take home, a bad of sweet muffins to enjoy later… a nice touch.

I think it’s likely we’ll be back in the future to try a few different items, as the location and quality of Ocean Grill is to good to pass up. Albeit pricy, it’s a pleasant locale…. even for those who are tough to please.

Artisanal: A Murray Hill Gem

Andre’s Brunch Tour Continues… with Cheese



For years I’ve loved the charm of the Murray Hill area of Manhattan, in an almost jealous way. I guess it’s been a question of just who lives there…. and I’ve always looked at the neighborhood in two ways. First….. where the hell is everyone? And second, where the hell did all of these people come from?

Regardless of my musings, the neighborhood has its share of great restaurants, and for my money Artisanal is one of them.


First, for those of you who love walking into authentic Parisian bistros, you are in luck. The room screams Paris, with cozy banquettes, tiled floors and warmly lit glass globes. Thankfully, there is plenty of elbow room here…. An attribute that comes in handy when your table runneth over with cheese.

Speaking of cheese, this is somewhat of a cheese Mecca. It’s like Murray’s, with a restaurant attached. Even for those of us who know our cheese, the well crafted menu can be overwhelming, so do what I did…. solicit help.

The other thing that leaps out at you is the massive wine list that offers every selection by the glass. Fairly priced, there is something here for everyone…. you’ll approve.

My Saturday afternoon visit was one of bliss, as my “brunch tour” of Manhattan continues… and if you are like me and enjoy mixing sweet and savory tastes around 1:00pm on a lazy Saturday, you are in luck.


The menu includes a few items you might expect…. oysters and clams, salads, snails, soups, omlettes and sandwiches…. but throw in a pot of rich, hot fondue with bread cubes, air-dried beef, fingerling potatoes, kielbasa, beef tips and apples… and well, now you’re talking.


If you’re looking for something heartier, you can opt for a plate of soft scrambled eggs with hanger steak, a shallow skillet of decadent macaroni and cheese, a spring vegetable risotto or a pulled Berkshire pork sandwich. Of course those with a sweet tooth won’t be disappointed with the almond croissant French toast.

So the Fork New York verdict?

Me likey. I found the place fun and delicious, and priced fairly for a restaurant of this quality. The cheese is pricey, but pulling in this amount of artisan fare isn’t a cheap proposition, so I can’t slam them for it. I’d advise going easy on the cheese and heavy on the plate fare if budget is a concern. There are also lunch and brunch prix fixe deals which are good buys.

These guys are easy to find (right off of Park Avenue on 32nd), and offer reservations on Open Table. I’d suggest you throw on a beret and get over there.

Madeleine Mae: A Change Of Pace on The UWS

Like It Or Not, I Have An Opinion




This proud southerner has noticed that newcomer Madeleine Mae is causing a stir on the Upper West Side.

Critics have been quick to pan this newly opened restaurant/café, but I am not. That said, I feel the need to fire back, so call this my “rebellious rebuttal” to the over-analyzing food sect.

Attention Bruni lovers and Chowhound faithful: Give it a rest.

First, understand what Madeleine Mae is not. This is not a Creole gem such as New Orleans famous “Dookie Chase”. This is not a Cajun imposter, like the recently closed UWS Jacques-Imo’s. This isn’t really a soul/creole/Cajun place at all. Really.

The feel of Madeleine Mae is that of Carolina breeze. This is home to comfort food with an original, nostalgic twist. An unusual shrimp and grits dish, biscuits and cornbreads, sides of greens, mac and cheese, fish dishes and plates of pork loin. Neatly mixed cocktails and a menu of “Rhum Cures”… (rum that is infused with other flavors such as vanilla, banana, cinnamon, etc). Tempting desserts that are worth saving room for.

All of it slightly overpriced for the UWS (shrimp and grits $15.95 for a small side dish portion), but accessible and often delicious.

I’d encourage you to visit Madeleine Mae just about anytime, but without question, this is a brunch joint. The menu provides an interesting mix at dinner, but the brunch menu is full of real temptation.

I’ll set the table for you.

It’s a gorgeous, lazy Saturday afternoon about 2pm. You and the other have dropped the dog at the “Canine Ranch” for an afternoon of playtime. Needing to unwind from an aggressive week of work tasks you left unfinished (you need a raise, and some of the others in the office to allow you to catch your breath), you wander across the street to Madeleine Mae and to ask for the table tucked inside of the open French doors, facing the sidewalk. You are seated.

You pause and think, “this is all good”.

Instantly, the space smells of yumness. The place isn’t crowded, but there are people. You promptly get a menu, and are asked if a cocktail, beer or Rhum cure is in order. You oblige.

The menu reveals fantastic frittatas, large impressive omelets and thick smoky bacon coked to order. This would be an easy decision if not for the sweet and savory French toast, biscuits and gravy and possibly the best Meyer lemon pancakes in Manhattan. Of course there are fresh fruit options and lighter fare as well. You notice these aren’t “Denny’s” prices, but you also realize that you aren’t at “Denny’s”. For this, you are grateful.

After sipping your last sip of champagne, your brunch arrives… looking and smelling terrific. About that time your Rhum cure arrives, and you begin to slip into your Saturday afternoon in style.

This is the part where you ask to see the dinner menu out of pure curiosity. You note the items that might bring you back, and then dismiss them as you have now named Madeleine Mae “your” brunch spot. The check comes; you finish your last sip of vanilla infused rum, and head for the door. Your companion says, “you see, I told you that you would like this place.”

As you leave, you see a couple… asking for the table tucked inside the French doors, and smile.

So, enough… foodie haters. Take a moment and realize that if the bread isn’t heated to 81 degrees, or if the soup is in a bread bowl instead of a heated cup, the world isn’t going to end. There are many reasons why we can love a space, and for me Madeleine Mae offers me several to choose from.

After all, this is my brunch place.




Madeleine Mae
461 Columbus Ave. (W. 82nd St.)
New York, NY 10024
212-496-3000


Note: My friends at Madeleine Mae have their faults. An unfinished website and no menupages listing is a kiss of death. My message: Get your act together on the digital side and sell your business. You’ve earned it.

Photo Credit: Steven Richter

Happy Birthday Justin

No restaurant review today, just a tip of the hat to a true Louisiana original, Justin Wilson.

Today is the birthday, in 1914, of Justin Wilson, in Roseland, Louisiana.

I first heard of Justin from my Grandmother (my Nonnie) who sometimes spoke of Justin, as she new him as a boy. She was from Amite, Louisiana (just north of Roseland)... and new everyone in the parish. She often laughed when she heard him speak, as she didn't remember the "thick" cajun accent as they grew up.

He was not exactly a Cajun, but that didn't stop him from becoming the world's best-known ambassador of Cajun culture. He picked up most of his style, "speech", and stories while working along Bayou Lafourche as a young man. He first came to public attention with his comedy routines, but soon he started talking about cooking. Wilson's pioneering television cooking shows became among the most popular of their kind. The recipes, it must be said, were less than brilliant. He was not a stickler for using the best ingredients, and never had a problem using canned this or that. But that's quite authentic. Justin Wilson died in 2001, but his TV shows are still in circulation, his many cookbooks still sell well, and his Cajun jokes are still being repeated--I garontee.

Long live the memory of Justin Wilson.

The Fork NY Top 10 Under $10

Need Something to Snack On For A Few Bucks?... Here are a few of the best.....





In this city, you can get anything. No, really. Anything. But sometimes, that realization can just be too much. What if you just want fast, yummy and simple?

Enter street food.

I qualify street food as anything you can grab from a small store or deli, foodcart, etc... and consume on the street, upright. While I could have named 10 pizza places as well as 20 hamburger places, I have focused here on joints that do real volume, and care about chatter. The list is a diverse gathering of meals, snacks and sweet treats.


So without further ado, here are Andre's Top 10 Under $10. I'll see you at the counter.




10. Hot Dog, Grays Papaya
This isn’t a copout, but a tip of the hat to the guys who have been the backbone of streetfood in NYC for decades. If you haven’t been as of late, the juice is still cold and the perfect snapskin hot dogs warm and toasty. As inflation goes, still affordable at buck and a quarter.

9. Chicken and Rice, Halal Cart at 53 and 6th
The fun is gone with this once “insiders” 3am dinner stop, but that doesn’t change the fact that their chicken and rice container, heaped with grilled pita and topped with magic white sauce (and a spray of spicy) is pure heaven. By the way, this 4pm to 4am cart still demands lines of a half a block and more.


8. Cheesesteak, 95 Miles to philly
There is something about a really good Philly cheesesteak (other than congestive heart failure) and nobody in NYC delivers better than this shop, on 3rd Ave btw 12th and 13th. The beauty of 99 Miles is that it is the same joint you would find in Philly, with the same taste…. Warm chewy bread, filled with steak, onions and whiz. Love it love it love it.


7. Lamb Pita, Kwik Meal Cart (45th and 6th)
Yes, it’s all that and more. Muhammed Rahman used to be a chef at the Russian Tea Room, and is now proprietor of one of the best street-food carts in NYC. Although you can make very few if any bad choices on this menu, the lamb pita stands out as one of the best sandwich options above 14th Street, and the lines at lunch are a good indication that the locals agree. I also recommend the falafel and chicken and rice plate.



6. Cuban Sandwich, Margon
There are dozens of respectable Cuban dives in the city, but Margon does it without the fanfare and high prices. Tucked away in midtown and a skip from Times Square, this mom and pop serves terrific Cuban food, and what could be one of the best Cuban sandwiches in the city. Word on the street is they are now serving these on egg bread as well…..


5. Creampuffs, Beard Papa’s
OK, I admit it. I have ridden the subway to the West Village to buy a box of these lighter than air creampuffs, and eaten every one of them before I could get them home. Twice. These gems are hard to describe, other than heavenly. Freshly baked puffs filled with light flavored cream, while you wait. Thank god they opened on the Upper West, at least now I have a fighting chance of getting 2 or 3 of them back to the apartment.


4. Caramel Crisp and Cheese Popcorn, Garrett’s Popcorn
I first became an addict years ago while living in Chicago, when the smell of their caramelcrisp popcorn would waft down Michigan Avenue. When they moved to Manhattan recently, I knew the reaction would be incredible, and it was. If you haven’t been, go today…. or send yourself a tin online :)

3. Spicy Hot Chocolate, Jacques Torres
I love drinks you can chew, but this is insane. Imagine a glass of smooth, creamy drinkable hot fudge, add some spice and heavy cream… and there you have it. The best cup of hot chocolate on the planet. Now on the Upper West as well.


2. Nutter Butter Cookie, Bouchon Bakery
There is nothing average with anything that comes out of this kitchen in the Time Warner Center, but the sweets are extraordinary. This cookie is the king of their cookie empire, and the line at the counter is a good example of people who have no reservations about shelling out $5 to get one.


1. Falafel Sandwich with Fries, Maoz
I fell in love with Maoz several years ago in Amsterdam, and when this store moved into NYC, I was there on opening day. NOTE: If you are a falafel fan, there is simply none better in New York. Again, hear me people…this is the best falafel in the city. Add killer Belgian fries and a bar of condiments to make your own sandwich, the way YOU like it, and well…. you’ve made Andre’s “best of” list, haven’t you.








note: Andre steals photos from all over the universe to add to his non-profit food blog. If there is a photo of yours here, please let me know so I can credit you, or ask me to remove and I will :)

10 New York City Dishes You Can't Miss

A 2008 Spring Round-Up of The Best of the Best

Yes, New York is full of terrific spots... but one thing is certain... New Yorkers love to single out their favorite dishes. Let me give you an example.

Friend: "How was your weekend?"
Andre: "Great! We ate at Otto Saturday night."
Friend: "Otto! Well did you have the cheese plate with the truffled honey?"
Andre: "Of course I did, don't be stupid."

Case in point. As good as any one restaurant may be, it's the special dishes themselves that drive traffic.

So below, I give you my early 2008 list of killer dishes.... sit down style. In the coming days, I'll post my "casual" list, but for now here is a checklist for you to work on as you make those reservations!


10. Crispy Tuna Roll, Koi
Made famous in LA, the NY outpost of Koi carries on the tradition with great care. What is it? Well, first you combine fresh minced tuna with fine scallions and mix it in a creamy hot sauce to create a thick tuna mixture you can form into fingers. Next, you take a same-sized finger of sushi rice, and actually “grill” it on an open fire BBQ, giving the rice a crispy, smoky flavor. You place the tuna on top of the rice and finish with a thin slice of jalapeno… and presto… you have the most popular sushi dish on the west coast. I’ll see you there.

9. Plantain Fried Rice with Avocado Salad, Asia De Cuba
Another dish I first tried at The Mondrian in Los Angeles, this terrific side dish can be had in all its glory here in The Morgans Hotel. You’d never think that this combination would work, but the guac piled on top of this heaping bowl of rice is magical.

8. Black Spaghetti with rock shrimp, spicy salami calabrese and green chiles, Babbo
It’s hard to believe that a pasta dish can be one of the best in the city, but when Mario is cooking, look out. This is a dish I had in a pasta sampler a while back, and it knocked me out. If you are interested in eating at Babbo anytime soon, you may find yourself in the bar…. rezo’s are a month at best right now.

7. Texas Pink Grapefruit Soup infused with green cardamon, star anise, and tahitian vanilla, Bouley
Only David Bouley could cook up an idea like this and make it amazing… and yes, this is one amazing dish. So good, it’s part of his award-winning tasting menu. One thing is for sure.. there are few places in the city more special on a chilly Saturday night than settling into Bouley’s “living room” for a killer meal.

6. Roasted Hen of the Woods Mushrooms, Craftsteak
Simply put, this is the best mushroom in the world. When you pan roast it in butter and serve it along side a perfectly cooked filet, you have an OMG moment. It eats like a steak itself… with a flavor that will send you searching gourmet grocers across the city. If only I could find them at retail.

5. Corn Creme Brulee, Quality Meats
I appreciate a good, creative side dish… and this one is just that. Fresh, crisp corn in a creamy base and toasted on top… between this and the buttered edamame, Quality Meats knows their side dishes.




4. Truffle Egg Toast with bottarga, inoteca
This has been on my list for 2 years running now, and how can you leave it off? Inoteca is one of the NY's best wine stops, and with perfect panini and dishes like this, it only seems to get better.

3. Sautéed Shrimp frisée, artichokes & capers, Landmarc
The new kid on the block in the Time Warner Center is turning heads… not only for it’s approachability, but for their great tasting dishes. This salad, perfectly balanced with a warm vinaigrette and fresh sautéed shrimp may be the best salad in the city at the moment.

2. Fried Chicken "Blue Ribbon Style" wasabi & honey, Blue Ribbon Sushi Bar and Grill
Blue Ribbon has always been known for fried chicken, and their best version now lives in Midtown. Crispy and delicate, it’s bizarre location on a killer sushi menu is at first a head-scratcher, until you taste it.

1. Sweet Potato Agnolotti with pecan, craft
I wish I could write something clever here, but words can't sum up just how good this dish is. Yes, this is THE best pasta dish in the city at the moment (sorry Mario) and as an extra bonus, it just happens to be at craft.


COMING SOON: Andre's Top 10 Dishes You Can Eat Standing Up......

craft : Is There A Better Night Out?

Now 7 Years Young, A Serious Chef Continues to Prove His Point



As someone who loves food and who has now lived in NYC for several years, I recently asked myself an important question.

How can you have never been to craft?

I’d been to craftbar, craftsteak… hell even ‘wichcraft. But never the jewel, craft.

A few days ago, that all changed.

As a foodie and proud NYC food blogger I am a believer in the skill of Tom Colicchio… and have always believed that one day he too would have his moment in the sun… aside from his sporadic television appearances, that is.

Perhaps I should be careful what I wish for, if in fact this would pull him away from working his magic at his stores, for ‘wich I am truly grateful.

My trip to 19th Street would confirm my irrational fear.

My inagural visit to craft began at 6pm on a Saturday evening. A simple cab ride dropped me at the door, and once inside my dining partner and I were warmly greeted and sat at once.

The menu at craft is a greenmarket approach to dining, and one I love. Truly ala carte in everyway, the menu relies on what’s fresh…. today. Even though the dishes may rotate from time to time, the seasonal approach to this cuisine is refreshing if not highly anticipated.

Even though there is a tempting tasting menu, I went the route of selecting individual courses, which was the right decision. With so many terrific options, I just wanted to “craft” a wider array of dishes, and I did. The service was professional, personal and spot on.

What did we eat?

I started with a pasta dish that literally left me speechless.

The dish was Sweet Potato Agnolotti & Pecan… a plate of delicate pockets of handmade pasta filled with creamy sweet potato and crunchy bits of roasted pecans. Make no mistake folks, this dish was as good or better than ANY pasta dish I have tasted at Babbo…. and if you know me, this is not a statement I make lightly. This was the real deal… and one of the best dishes on any table in the city.

Not to be left out, was the second pasta dish, a Celery Root Ravioli topped with freshly shaved Black Truffles. Unreal… and again, Babbo (or above) quality.

I knew this was going to be good, but I wasn’t ready for an OMG meal.

We added a terrific Friseé and Coppa Salad as well as a plate of beets and fresh tarragon… both terrific but sadly having to follow the pastas which I was still gushing over.

Dinner was a tough choice, but we opted for a Porterhouse for two, which was prepared Lugar style and sliced just right. The steak was on the expensive side, but was tender and flavorful… and accompanied by two roasted bones brimming with rich bone marrow. It just kept getting better.

On the side, we ordered what I would consider a real treat, Hen of the Woods mushrooms… one of the most (if not the most) delicious mushrooms in the world. Pan roasted in butter, the mushroom was crispy and steak-like… and on the money. We added the smaller Velvet Piopini mushrooms (also terrific) with a side of white grits (average) and found ourselves with just about everything we needed. House wines by the glass were spectacular.


So I am guessing by now you are getting the picture… this is amazing stuff. By this time we are 2 ½ hours in, but I am not bailing on dessert. I have come this far, I will not be defeated.

Dessert at craft is special. Sure, you can order Meyer Lemon Beignets, Chocolate Tarts… or Praline Panna Cotta…. but the homemade melt-in-your-mouth donuts along with a sorbet line-up that includes Rhubarb, Tangerine and Blood Orange is the bomb.

But if you want the real show-stopper, pass on all of it, and get a scoop of Brown Butter Ice Cream.

You heard me, Brown Butter Ice Cream. Holy crap.

Now that I have left my own body, it was time to pay the check and float home. Yes, it was a pricy night, but a special one. It’s not every week you get a treat such as this one… and spending 3 hours being pampered and fed like this, well, is just plain worth it.

I can be tough to please at times, but when I have a meal like this one, I feel a profound duty to tell everyone I know.

And now, I’ve told you.




Craft
43 E 19th St - Btwn Bway & Park Ave S
New York, NY 10003

212 780-0880

$$$$
Bring the plastic, you're gonna need it.

Frankie and Johnnie's: Old School In Midtown Still Works

Quit over-thinking your pre-theatre dinner, and make the rezo



If you are a steak snob, you may not want to read this.

There are good steak houses in NYC, and they don’t have to start with LU and end with GAR’S.

Case in point, my recent trip to the old tried and true “Frankie and Johnnie’s” on W. 45th, right smack dab in the middle of the theatre district.

Why? Well, curiosity I guess. The place has history you know…. the legend has it that it was a speakeasy that used the passwords “Frankie” and “Johnnie”. That’s good enough for me.

Truth be told the steaks are delicious and the space is old New York. Cramped and, well cramped. But you know, on a cold NYC night… it can wind up being just the ticket. Romantic and old school.

First, when you visit, don’t flip out that you have to climb a set of steep-ass stairs. When you open the door of the place, you climb up, check your coat and open the door… to realize that you are now standing in the kitchen. I thought to myself… “I like this place”.

We crawled into our tiny booth space and ordered a perfect martini, and average glass of wine, and two spectacular lump crabmeat cocktails. Being from South Louisiana, I am picky when it comes to shrimp and crab, and this was good stuff. One splash of fresh lemon and I was off.

My steak choice for the evening was the filet mignon with the lobster tail. The steak was cooked perfectly and melted in my mouth. The meat here is dusted in a house spice of salt and pepper (and a few others that don’t intrude) so you don’t need to do much. It was a great cut, cooked perfectly and went down easy.

The lobster tail I could have passed on… as it was of the frozen variety and was overcooked… but the crab was so good, I took a shot. Maybe not next time. I’ll never learn.

My companion had the ribeye and equally enjoyed. With a mountain of lyonnaise potatoes and a platter of average at best broiled mushrooms, we had enough to keep us happy until post-theatre coffee and dessert. There is a decent wine list, but the cocktail and glass of wine seemed to do the trick.

The verdict? Well, I like it. Is there a bigger, better steakhouse in the area?... sure. Could we have walked to another place in the freezing cold?... sure. Is there a better place to eat in the theatre district in relation to the Imperial Theatre? Likely not.

Go and enjoy old New York… get a crabmeat cocktail and a juicy steak… and for the hell of it, knock on the door and say “Frankie”.

You never know… someone just might open it and say “Johnnie”.



Frankie & Johnnie's ($$$$$)

269 W 45th St, New York 10036
Btwn Bway & 8th Ave


Phone: 212-997-9494
Fax: 212-997-6851

KOI: An LA Concept Continues to Wow NYC

But How Much Are You Willing To Spend On Sushi?



There has been a long standing argument between foodies in Los Angeles and New York over sushi. Sure, New York is the steak and Italian food capital of North America, and yes, Los Angeles has simply the best Mexican mom and pop joints on the planet…. but sushi?

Well, the argument can use Nobu as a measure, but truth be told, both cities have outstanding sushi options. The difference is in what the offering is….

As NYC has tried and true sushi and sashimi houses (and newer fusion-type stores, thanks Morimoto), our friends in LA were ahead of the fusion curve a long time ago. I credit much of it to the incredible strip-mall pioneer Katsu-ya in Studio City… and of course, Nobu… but honestly, there are numerous spots in LA that were on this bandwagon a long time ago.

This point is what makes my review of Koi an interesting one. Plain and simple, Koi is an LA sushi house, dressed in hip black clothes, making music in midtown Manhattan. Yes, I know...Koi IS STILL an sushi joint in Los Angeles today... but you must admit, it takes serious guts to open an LA joint in NYC without changing.... well anything.

The dead giveaway?

Well, without question, it’s LA’s most famous sushi dish, the Crispy Tuna Roll. By the way, if you haven’t had a Crispy Tuna Roll, stop reading this review and get your ass down there now. It’s that good.

Where did it come from?? Well, the famous roll is in fact a product of the previously mentioned “Katsu-ya”. What is it?

Well, first you combine fresh minced tuna with fine scallions and mix it in a creamy hot sauce to create a thick tuna mixture you can form into fingers.

Next, you take a same-sized finger of sushi rice, and actually “grill” it on an open fire BBQ, giving the rice a crispy, smoky flavor. You place the tuna on top of the rice and finish with a thin slice of jalapeno… and presto… you have the most popular sushi dish on the west coast.

So, true to form, before I even opened the Koi menu, I quickly ordered 2 orders (8 pieces total)… next time I’ll peek at the menu, since I had no idea that Koi charges $16.00 per order…. holy crap.

I’m being help hostage. But I need my Crispy Tuna Roll so badly, I’ll pay anything… and I did. Are they as good as Katsu-ya?... well, I think so. At $4 per bite? Uh, yea. What can I do?

As far as the other items of the menu, they are solid and expensive. As a matter of fact, it’s all expensive. And let me remind you, I’m not usually the guy who frowns on expensive meals… but there is expensive, and also “damn, that’s expensive”. I think it’s a perceived value thing. None the less, it’s easy to drop a few hundred dollars here for dinner and drinks for two.

So now that you’ve tried your Crispy Tuna Rolls, here is what you need.

The Creamy Rock Shrimp. Also a dish from LA in origin, it’s one of my favorites. Again, a creamy hot sauce coating hot, crispy tempura rock shrimp. Good stuff.

Tuna Tartare Avocado. Nice and light, with wonton crackers on the side. Nicey nice.

Sautéed Shrimp on California Roll. Spectacular. Exactly what you think it is, and to make it even better, order it on soy paper instead of nori.

Baked Lobster Roll. Also delish. Pace yourself at this point, there is more.

Cucumber Sunomono. Highly recommended as a meal and palate refresher as you travel from dish to dish. Sweet and sour bites of fresh sliced yumness.

Warm Baby Spinach and Mushrooms. A popular dish everywhere, this one is delicate and well done. Easy to share.

Spicy Seared Albacore with crispy red onions. Another Katsu-ya dish, that gets to shine here at Koi. Love these flavors, and the onions are the bomb.

And last but not least… dessert.

Order what you want, but I am partial to the Warm Asian Pear Bread Pudding with Maple Ice Cream, pomegranate and caramel sauce. Hell yea.

WARNING:

One thing I guess I should mention at this point is that you may need an attitude adjustment before you hop on over to Koi.

The place is ssss-wanky…. and you are reminded constantly. Arrive early with a reservation and avoid the jet setters, and you’ll thank me later. If you want to wait outside in line with a grumpy doorman while others eat your Crispy Tuna Rolls, well that’s up to you. Remember, I told you so. (Rezo’s are available through Open Table).

The verdict… I love it. How can I not? They have my Crispy Tuna Roll. But the truth is they really do all of it well, and it a hip and sleek dining room to boot. Just make sure your Visa or MC has some room on it, your gonna need it.

KOI

Cross Street Btwn 5th & 6th Ave
Visa, MC, AmEx, Disc

Hours
Breakfast
Daily: 7am-11am
Lunch
Mon-Fri: 12pm-2:30pm
Dinner
Mon-Wed: 5:30pm-11pm
Thu-Sat: 5:30pm-12am
Sun: 6pm-10pm

Serves
Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

craftsteak: Getting Better With Age

Low and Behold, Tom Colicchio's Meatpacking Gem Continues to Shine




At first glance, it's likely a neighborhood you wouldn't "stumble" upon. Tucked behind the Chelsea Market on a spooky block of 10th Avenue lies craftsteak, one of three quality restaurants located about 200 feet apart (Del Posto and Morimoto sharing the spotlight). It's an area of the Meatpacking District that doesn't get a lot of casual foot traffic.

To those of you who live below midtown, you are likely laughing at my geographical apprehension, but being an Upper Westsider, this block might as well be Siberia.

That said, for food this good, Siberia is nice this time of year.

Living in New York for more than 2 years now, I have finally graduated from my ethnic food binges to the real backbone of NYC cuisine... meat. From a dinner at Lugars to the history of a New Jersey Beefsteak meal, there is no doubt that New Yorker's celebrate a thick juicy steak like no other.

Lucky for land lubbers, New York offers just about every meat experience you can have. Swimming in butter, seared, grilled, baked, pan fried, bbq, raw and shish-kabob. From 114th to Battery Park, the city is brimming with, well, meat.

Entering craftsteak, you can't help but fall in love with the interior. The sleek, earthy, modern design tips you off that this is a place to be taken seriously... and that's exactly how I approached it.

The menu, a massive amalgamation of fresh oysters, aged steaks and creative sides, is frustrating in a sense you can't decide what you want. For some that is a good thing... for me... well, I wanted it all.

Painfully deciding to skip starters and salads, we went straight for the kill.... an aged NY strip, a grass fed ribeye. There are several Wagyu beef offerings as well, but experience tells me that this overrated grade of beef can be a waste of time and money when quality corn and grass fed steaks adorn the menu. I'll save the faux kobe experience for my next trip to Japan.

Now the dinner.

We found the steaks to be way above average. The corn-fed 42 day aged NY strip was tender and flavorful, with a slight char. The flavor of the aging was apparent, but not overpowering...as can often be the case. The folks at craftsteak slice the steak ala Lugar's for sharing, and idea I like.

As good as the strip was, the better option was the grass-fed, a bit milder but decidedly more savory selection. With a perfect amount of fat ribbon, this was a great pick... even at a $55 pricetag (ouch).

You can go nuts ordering side dishes. We ordered four... smothered collard greens, rosti potatoes, celery root puree and roasted Hen of the Woods mushrooms. The collards were as good as any I've had in South Louisiana, the rosti potatoes.. a hashbrown cake filed with caramelized onions was spectacular, the celery root light and delicate... and the mushrooms pan roasted crispy in butter. It made me want to order four more.

If his sounds like a lot of food, well it is. Remember, you get an outstanding amuse with a iron pot of chicken liver spread, as well as a mini-pan of delectable parker house rolls (I had an elementary school flashback). Coupled with dinner, a cocktail, a terrific glass of wine and dessert... and well, you just may need to loosen the belt a notch or two.


I can be hard on restaurants, but to be honest, I just couldn't find any faults in craftsteak. The atmosphere was delightful, the food fantastic and the service attentive and sincere. From the moment we hit the door, there was a confidence and welcome attitude that stuck with you. These are people who understand food and service, and it shows.

Are there better steak joints in NYC? Well, maybe. But for my money, craftsteak belongs in my top three.... a list that changes every six weeks or so.

It may look like Siberia, but with food this good... it's worth the trip.



Craftsteak

85 10th Ave, New York 10011
At 15th St

Phone: 212-400-6699

B and B Restaurante: Mario Takes Vegas

A Little Taste of Babbo on the Strip


I am one of those people who just love Vegas.

Years ago, it was about playing blackjack, staying up all night and people watching. As I grew older, it became more about eating at the world class restaurants and catching a great show. Ok, maybe a little blackjack....

That said, I have developed a gathering of spots in Vegas that have become favorites, and just getting back from the CES Convention, I have a new entry to the group... B and B Restaurante, in the Venetian.



This partnership between Mario Batali and Joe Bastianich opened quietly last year, but has been knocking audiences dead ever since. Classic and understated, those who know Mario's food will liken this spot to be a clone of Babbo, decidedly not Lupa or Del Posto. Of course for those who love Mario, another Babbo is welcome anytime.


For me, a trip to a Batali store is about the pasta, and B and B doesn't disappoint. The 5-course pasta tasting menu is very similar to the New York experience, witout the 30 day reservation requirement (I called the day before).

Upon arrival, we were sat quickly and greeted right away. We knew coming in that the pasta tasting menu was going to be the call, and instead of getting fall down drunk [airing each course with wine, we opted for a few quartinos of a Piamonte Barolo that was out of this world.

After a delicious treat of chick peas and black olive tapenande as a starter,









We were ready for the main event.... and it didn't disappoint.
The first course:

Ravioli with Bitter Greens in Brown Butter






This was outstanding. Light, fragrant, perfectly balanced mixture in very delicate pockets of pasta. Tossed in butter this was the perfect start.


Next was a very light and refreshing course:

Tortellini in brodo






I liked this course, although I though it may have been programmed strangely here. The pasta was handmade and very fragile... and the broth slow simmered and flavorful.


Next was a rich terrifc dish:

Cencioni with Pancetta and Walnuts







I loved this flavor combination, and the portion was just right. About this time, you start to realize that the small portions don't matter... you are filling up.


Next up was Mario's famous crowd pleaser:

Jose’s Pyramids with “Passato di Pomodoro”




This is a dish I had had at Babbo a few years ago, and loved. The little triangle pockets are filled with braised beef and tomato and are savory. This is a great dish and I am always impressed by the craftsmanship of the kitchen when these gems show up at the table.


Lastly, we asked our served to opt of of the goose liver ravioli (I'm not a liver guy).... the chef subbed this delicious item (and old stand by):

Black Pepper Pappardelle with Wild Boar Ragu




Rich, heavy and filling... this pasta was the perfect closer.





Desserts were delicious, but by the time I had finished the 5th course, there wasn't much room.... that said, I left B and B full, but not stuffed, which was a nice feeling. It would be easy to pack it in here and feel miserable all night. I prefer the small plates and array of tastes compared to a massive bowl of pasta that sticks with me for 3 days.

The skinny on B and B? Love it. There are now several Mario options in Las Vegas, but those who love Babbo will be happy happy here. Seats can be hard to come by on weekends, so call ahead.... The earliest table on the Wednesday night we visited was at 10:30pm.... ouch.

Da Umberto: Magic In Chelsea

After Your First Bite, You Again Realize That NYC Is The Greatest Restaurant City In The World


Before I actually lived in New York, I questioned if in fact New York was the best restaurant city in the world. I had traveled to London, Paris, Tokyo, Rome, Berlin and others.... and had lived in Chicago and Los Angeles... not to mention growing up 60 miles from New Orleans. But after moving to NYC several years ago, it didn't take long for the realization to set in... NYC is simply the best restaurant city in the world.

A constant reminder of this realization occured only days ago, as I visited a remarkable Italian restaurant... that in many cities would be considered "the best" in town. Of course in New York, it is "one of the best".

The spot?... Da Umberto, the classic destination in Chelsea. And surprise, surprise. This joint isn't owned and operated by Super Mario.

Simply put, Da Umberto is the type of restaurant that makes NYC great. It is unassuming, unpretentious, truly authentic and incredibly delicious. Here's the skinny.

Those NY'ers that are keen to tricks and gadgets will smile at the door of Da Umberto's. Why? At the door you aren't greeted by a hostess stand or stuffy waiter.. but a coat rack. That's right, your are in the foyer of someone's home, and that's how you are made to feel. Come on in.

After a glass of prosecco at the bar (thank you Rocco), we made our way into the middle of the deep, narrow dining room to find a spacious spot. The three of us settled in and began to try and figure out where in the hell those amazing smells were coming from.

With one of our party having a good deal of Da Umberto experience, he put the evening in the hands of our terrific waiter. The waiter suggested a menu of many tastes... a plate of mixed grilled and marinated vegetables (Da Umberto antipasto) with a sauteed jumbo shrimp in garlic cream and a smoky, grilled baby squid that was out of this world.


Next, a plate of sliced proscuitto (perfect), sopressata (one of my favorites), mortadella (simple) and chunks of aged parmigiano reggiano (very high quality, with some salty crystals lurking within).

Not to miss a sampling of pasta, we all received a small plate of remarkable bites... the first, a handmade mushroom ravioli topped with black truffle cream... along side a spaghetti with fresh tomatoes rendered in pancetta fat. Outstanding.

As good as the first three course were, the meats and fish to come were worth waiting for.

The veal milanese, pounded thin, breaded and pan fried was topped with a saute of cherry tomatoes and arugula. The sweet tomatoes and peppery arugula were terrific... but after one bite of the tender veal I realized the cutlet had been fried in pure butter. Wow.

Not to be outdone, my colleagues enjoyed a venison osso bucco... rich and tender over a bed of perfect risotto... and a whole roasted monk fish, grilled to perfection on the bone. Topped with lemon and thyme, the dish was truly authentic and tasted as good as it smelled.


Desert looked amazing... a cart of treats including a 10 pound bowl of tiramisu... a gigantic offering unlike anything I had ever seen. Next visit, I'll remember this and try and save room.

So by now you are likely getting the drift that I like... no love, Da Umberto's. When you combine terrific staff, feel, food and ambiance, it's hard to miss. No, this isn't a cheap night (think $60-80 per person without wine)... but the dinner tab will cost you much less than a trip to Rome. Of course, a few bottles of wine and you could fly coach to Venice, but I'll leave that up to you.

Additionally, you should be dressed. One thing I noticed was there were no slackers waiting for a table, and the crowd was dressed to kill. Nice.

Lastly, call ahead. This isn't a place you can just "drop in" on and get a killer table. This is a special place, so treat it as such.

When the holiday season rolls around, I take time to thank my lucky stars for the things in this life that make me truly happy.



Thank you Da Umberto's.... and may you have the happiest of holidays in this season of giving.

What A Friend You Have In Chesses

Tis the Season To Give The Gift.... of Cheese



So, gone is Thanksgiving. Time to dust of the box of holiday decorations, break out the Christmas card rolodex and start making lists.

About this time of year, every year, I start searching for unique, regional food gifts for friends and family. This year, I have found a wonderful option. Cheese.

My favorite cheese shop in New York is the one and only Murray's, and sure enough, there is a CHEESE CLUB at Murray's that will keep the love of your life neck deep in cheese for as long as you wish.

Additionally, they sell special cheese sets (american, italian, cheddars, etc), cool gadgets, apparel and other goodies. How cool is it to get a Fondue Kit in the mail, along with all of the cheese you need to get it going?!

But wait... there's more! Murray's also ships salami, nuts, oils, vinegars, crackers, toasts, chocolates, etc... not just cheese. I'd think if you have a epicurean on your list, you could make their head swim with all of the goodies you'll find here.

Plus: Great selection, top quality, beautifully presented and shipped

Minus: Expensive as hell, uh, expensive as hell. But it is Christmas, right?


CHEESE OPTIONS

Just as tasty and maybe even more trendy at the moment are our friends at Artisanal, the incredible cheese emporium in NYC that like Murray's, deals in quality stuff. They too have a cheese of the month club, and feature an even wider array of the stinky stuff. Throw in cheesecakes and breads and you have yet another killer option for those who need more than Hickory Farms on the table during the holidays.

Of course, if Hickory Farms is your thing, and by that I mean a nasty cheese crock and a beef log made of mystery meat, you can find them here. Just don't tell your giftee that I sent you there... although I loved that stuff at the mall when I was 12....

Need one last choice? Well, when all else fails, send them Gouda. Henri Willig makes award-winning gouda on his cheese farm, and you can get a 2-pound hunk of the stuff here. I've ordered several times, and love the stuff. Henri makes good gouda.

Need more suggestions? I'll be filling this page with juicy bits during the holidays so check back often. Next up?.... Chocolate!

Mail Order Magic

It's Time To Get The Goods For Thanksgiving


I love the holidays. I mean love love.

Why? I get to see my friends and family, take a few days off... and eat amazing stuff.

One tradition of mine that will never change is my obsession with food from home. Those years when I spend time visiting relatives in Pennsylvania or elsewhere, I arrange shipments of food to arrive when we do. These items usually include homemade Louisiana sausage (for grilling and the gumbo that follows Turkey day), boudin (the amazing "rice dressing" sausage that is good to snack on constantly), chickens stuffed with jalapeno sausage, jalapeno sausage bread.. and other goodies.

There are several places that are reputable, but I'll take this opportunity to share my favorite spots so you too can surprise your family this holiday!

BOUDIN and SAUSAGE, and TURDUCKEN

First, do some research. My favorite site to read about boudin is The Boudin Link, a site dedicated to amazing Louisiana Boudin in the Lafayette and Baton Rouge area. Some of the places on this list will ship, but if they don't, don't worry.... Bourque's will. This place isn't just great for boudin, but their sausage (pork and beef varieties are simply these best you'll ever eat) is out of this world. Also, this is where you get the stuffed chickens. If that isn't enough, they have great Turducken as well, if thats your thing.

Warning: If you haven't had a turducken, it may not be a great idea to order one and replace your Thanksgiving Turkey with it. Turducken is an acquired taste, and your first one should be on the side. This is a rich, rich dish... and as the name states, is a stuffed chicken, inside a duck, inside a turkey... all boneless.


To order these goodies, I suggest you order from these folks, in this order:

BOURQUES SPECIALTIES
Great boudin, smoked sausage, breads and stuffed chickens

TONY'S SEAFOOD
These guys ship crabs and crawfish in season, as well as the best boudin balls in the world

CAJUN GROCER
They have decent stuff here, but the quality can't touch Bourques or Tony's


Amazing Sausage Bread from Bourques










FRIED TURKEY

Years ago, this was a novelty that few people ate. Now, my friends in California and New York are experts. You can order Fried Turkeys online, but they just don't taste that good, as they are meant to be eaten warm and fresh.

If you live in the NYC area, you can get a fried turkey from the folks at JIVE TURKEY in Brooklyn. They have way too many flavors, but the cajun is good.

Of course you know, fried turkeys can't be prepared inside... under ANY circumstances. You can get a frying pot almost anywhere these days, so plan to get outside if you crave a delicious bird prepared in this fashion... most people I know only prepare fried turkeys, since they just taste so good.

If you plan to do it, here is what you'll need to do:


Cajun Fried Turkey Recipe

Ingredients

12lb turkey (no larger)
Chef Williams Cajun Injector Creole Butter Marinade
Creole Seasoning
3 - 4 gallons of oil (preferably peanut oil, or cottonseed)

Cooking

Remove giblets from turkey, rinse with warm water, pat dry (especially inside cavity) and leave whole. Drain cavity completely.

Inject 4 oz. of Creole Butter Marinade on each side of breast (you can order this from cajun grocer). Inject 2 oz. in each leg and thigh. Use about 16 oz. of marinade per turkey.

Rub Seasoning Salt on outside of turkey and on the side of cavity.

Set up the outdoor cooker.

Hold the turkey by the legs and lower (breast first) slowly (very slowly) into the oil. Make sure all of the water is drained from breast cavity before placing bird into the oil.

Deep fry in 3 to 4 gallons of oil at 300F for 3-4 minutes per pound.


EVEN BETTER

Sure you've had fried turkey, but have you fried a pork roast? Well, if you haven't, they are amazing. Here is a recipe for a pork roast, with marinade. If you don't want to make homemade marinade, go ahead and use the stuff in the bottle... it will still be great.

Materials/Ingredients:

A deep fryer made or designed to fry turkey's
Frying thermometer

Whole Pork Roast

Injection Mixture

1/4 cup melted butter or margarine
1/4 cup olive oil
1 tbs. garlic juice (your choice)
1/2 tsp. granulated garlic (not powder)
pinch of black pepper
pinch of cayenne pepper
3 tsp. brown sugar
1 tsp. Old Bay seasoning
Prepared Mustard (the yellow stuff in a jar)
Tony's or Old Bay Seasoning
Peanut oil to fry in

Prepare the meat:

Trim the roast leaving just a little fat on it.

Mix all the ingredients above except the Mustard. Bring mixture to a boil then let cool stirring every few minutes to release the seasonings. Draw mixture into an injector and inject the roast putting the needle as close to the center of each muscle as you can (doesn't have to be perfect). Rub the outside of the roast with mustard then sprinkle a little Tony's or Old Bay seasoning all over it. Put the roast in a zipper lock bag or in a covered bowl. Put it in the fridge overnight (at least 8 hours).


Preheat oil to 350ºF [Follow the fryer instructions - this oil will cook you if it hits you]. Cook about 8 minutes per pound.

Keep the oil at 325-350ºF, no more no less.

Take the roast out and put it in a pot on the stove with about a half inch of water in it. Put the fire on medium-low and let the roast loose some of the browning to make a small gravy. Turn the roast to get all sides. Do this at least 5 minutes on each side. Season the gravy with Old Bay and black pepper.



Slice the roast and put it in a casserole dish. Pour the gravy over it!


Enjoy your holiday everyone!

A Blue Ribbon For The Upper West

Don't Look Now, But There are Sexy Fish on 58th Street



For those of us “Upper West Siders” who are long time Blue Ribbon fans, the thought of the new Blue Ribbon Sushi Bar and Grill was too good to be true. Now that Bruce and Eric Bromberg’s terrific sushi spot is open, the bottom line is clear… quality Upper West dining comes with a price.

Don’t get me wrong, I understand that New York restaurants come with a price tag, but unfortunately this spot has a price that will prohibit a weekly visit.

That said, everything the Bromberg brothers set out to do in this store works. It is hip, fun, sexy and mostly delicious.

In NY, and especially the Time Warner Center area, your space needs to scream “cool”. This one does. With a bar up front, the long narrow space opens into a surprisingly hip back room… with a sushi bar jammed with 8-10 sushi chefs.

If Frank Lloyd Wright had been Japanese, this would have been his design. A mix of expertly crafted raw and finished woods, I couldn’t help but notice that there was a design connection between the space and the cedar sake box before me. It works.


For sushi purists, the menu is overwhelmingly spectacular. There are a jillion varieties of fish here, and fresh is the rule. Sure there is tuna, mackerel and amberjack… but you can’t always find Japanese snapper and orange clam lingering around a menu in this area. The prices are steep ($4 a bite, or a California roll with King Crab for $17.50) but you get what you pay for.

For example, my $9 spicy tuna roll was good (fresh fish, but not very spicy)… but for 4 tiny pieces, I thought ahead to my next visit with friends, thinking a large dinner for four would get expensive fast.

The early star of the show was easily the San Daikon, a three radish salad in a terrific ginger-miso dressing. We coupled this with one of the good-looking specials, a platter of rock shrimp tempura with spicy sauce on the side. The dish was ok, but would be improved a great deal by frying the shrimp about one minute longer, and tossing the hot crispy shrimp with the sauce and heaping them on a platter with something fresh on the side (cucumber would be perfect).

The rest of the menu can be hit or miss. Don’t get me wrong, there isn’t bad food here, I just feel that some dishes fall a little short.

Point in case:

For dinner I veered off of the sushi menu and ordered the salt and pepper shrimp, a dish that really showed me some of the limitations of the kitchen. Although the shrimp had good flavor, there was very little flavor on the shells… which were also very hard to peel. The manager made a point to make his way to our table and tell me I could (and should) eat the shells, but being from Louisiana and eating shrimp since birth, I know that one doesn’t digest shrimp shells easily. Let me cut to the chase… this was a platter of four medium large shrimp for $19.00. I wasn’t expecting a platter of ten, but for that price, they better be some bad ass shrimp. They weren’t.

In contrast, my companion stuck with sushi rolls and was happy happy. Again the freshness of the fish was front and center… and as you know, when you are dealing with fish of this quality, it’s hard to screw it up.


Blue Ribbon offers land lubbers several options here… a nice steak menu and their famous fried chicken… an option I may opt for when I return… and their desserts are simple if not underwhelming.

I would be remiss if I didn’t mention the incredible sake collection, both pasteurized and unpasturized. We ordered two boxes of unpasturized (recommended by our waiter) and loved the choice. There is also a good wine selection and cocktails of all shapes and sizes.

The skinny? Well it’s good. For those like me that aren’t high-end sushi connoisseurs, it’s just enough. For those who are into sushi, it’s a haven. For everyone, it’s expensive. But hey, this is the new Upper West Side, right?



photos by Robert K. Chin

Del Frisco's: Closing The Gap to #1

Don't look now, but Del Frisco's is quietly kicking some steak ass in Midtown.


You can’t slam a joint for not being from New York.

As much as I’d love to throw rocks at Del Frisco’s, the massive, gleaming 6th Avenue meat factory, I can’t. The fact is… expensive as it may be, the food is downright terrific.



Case in point: a recent lunch at Del Frisco’s.

First, the setting is ridiculous. This place doesn’t have one or two floors… it has three. With three bars. And an escalator. A first floor that resembles an airport hanger dressed in mahogany, an beautiful upstairs with view of 6th Avenue… and a quieter underground with cozy tables where you can close that all important business deal.

Let’s get one thing out of the way. I like a place where you can blow $100 on lunch, as well as get a burger for $13. This is that place. And believe me, the fantastic $13 Prime Beef Burger with skillet potatoes is as filling as a steak, or anything else you might get… so don’t feel guilty. I’ve been preaching about the filet tips and mashed potatoes on the bar menu for 2 years now (yes, they are still there for $10), but the burgers are worth the trip.

That said, the steaks are superb. I found the 10oz ribeye with chateau potatoes tender and perfectly cooked ($27) as well as the Filet Mignon tips (melt in your mouth) with pasta ($19).

There are decent seafood options here in tuna, scampi, salmon and scallops… but the steaks are front and center and deservedly so. The sides are large enough to split between 2 or 3, and on a recent trip I enjoyed a platter of steak cut, hand dipped onion rings… as well as buttery mushrooms.

If you don’t feel like fretting over the menu, there is a business lunch special for $29 that includes a salad and choice of filet mignon or salmon. The hot, crispy loaf of sesame bread comes free of charge.

Dinner prices are a bit steeper, but the quality doesn’t disappoint. On this menu you’ll see the nighttime debut of a bone-in veal chop ($39), porterhouse for two ($99) and prime lamb ($39). A delicious Osso buco also makes an appearance, with fresh lobsters and various seafood offerings. Any of these sparkle with a side of creamy Maque Choux Corn, a recipe more often found in South Louisiana than midtown Manhattan.

Generally, all of the side dishes are terrific, and the wine list is above average in quality and value.

So, why isn’t Del Frisco’s at the top of every list?

Several reasons.

First, the service can be uneven. They often try and oversell here, and they don’t need too. It’s easy enough to run up a hefty tab here without feeling guilty for missing dessert, so back off.

Next, this is not a New York dining experience, as the place seats about 500 people. It is big, loud and noisy… and tourists and businessmen on expense accounts call this place home.

Lastly, it’s not a native New York steak joint. Sounds crazy, but this town is loyal to its steak-shrines. Let’s get over this and enjoy some good eats, shall we?

Del Frisco’s. Now you know. There’s good meat on 6th Avenue and for once, it isn’t coming from a food cart.

Telepan: Is This The Best Of The Upper West?

Lacking Attention to Detail Can Turn a Good Thing Bad




I think I know why the Upper West Side gets a bad wrap.

The fancy schmancy food isn’t very good.

Actually, let me correct that. The food can be OK. There can be good value here. There is tradition.

But more often than not, food and service on the Upper West falls short.

I don’t want to generalize this realization, as I know some UWS spots are headed in the right direction. But after a visit to one of the “best” UWS spots, I was left disheartened.

The Story Begins

My visit to Telepan was greatly anticipated. I know of the reputation, have read the reviews, yada yada. All that is fine and dandy, until I get my chance to kick the tires. That’s when I know the real score.

Well, the visit to Telepan, nice and full on a fairly busy Wednesday evening… started fine. I waited for my colleague at the bar with a nice glass of champagne, and marveled at the well appointed dining room. If “Design Within Reach” was in the restaurant business, this would be their place… trendy green paint, box lights and all. It was comfy and cozy, if not a bit bright (turn down the lights a touch?).

From there, the evening started to drift downhill, as once seated getting someone, anyone, to serve us a drink or take our order was getting to be a problem.

I’ll leave my service gripes for a moment and talk about the food.

Both my colleague and I… lovers of trying as much and many as we can, both opted for the tasting menu. This decision was a fairly high priced one for the UWS, especially with wine.. but what the hell. This is supposed to be one of the best spots in… well, in NYC. So, I’ll fork over the cash.

Here We Go.

The amuse bouche was nice, but seemingly out of whack. The mini three-taste presentation included a crispy pancake-like bread (very good), carrot soup (ok, bland) and salmon tartar (fishy and average). Hmmm.

Our apps fared better, but not by much. My fried Blue Prawns should have been reworded “Blue Prawn”… a single medium fried shrimp on a plate over a basic bean salad. Being from Louisiana, this was an average fried shrimp… the variety I would tuck into a shrimp poboy and devour for lunch. The other dish, their famed “Egg In A Hole” was better, but still lacked an oh my god moment. The brioche was delicious, the mushrooms ok.. but overall just OK.

The mid-courses looked amazing, and we had a hard time choosing. Unfortunately, both choices were bad, as both dishes disappointed. The “Cauliflower with Black Pepper Noodles” was lacking distinction… meaning the dish had no center. No buttery finish or creamy sensations… just a cream based pasta dish with very bland cauliflower. The noodles packed no punch.

The other dish, a promising lobster Bolognese also fell short. Nicely presented, it also lacked flavor and richness in a tasteless broth. I understand wholeheartedly that the chef is going for subtle and fresh here… it just didn’t get there.

Lastly, the entrees were hit and miss. The Heritage Pork plate, complete with a loin, belly, shoulder and bacon piece was tasty… alone. The collards that accompanied were a good idea, but again the dish fell out of balance as I searched for something a bit more acidic on the plate. Perhaps a bottle of pepper vinegar for the collards would have done the trick. That aside, I like this dish…

The other dish, the organic lamb, was just plain overcooked. When asked if a rare piece (uh, maybe a juicy cut that is also tender?) could be found, the answer was just… “no”. Not exactly the answer you are looking for when you spend good money on food you believe will be expertly prepared.

And You Are Who?.....

Which brings me back to the service on this evening. It was nonexistent. The dishes we never presented by the server, but rather the busboys, who really knew nothing about the dishes. Our waiter stopped by on occasion if we flagged him down, otherwise we were on our own. There was no “how are things?” or “can I get you something”… it was gone with the plates and here comes the next course.

As far as the wine is concerned, going with the tasting was a mistake. Our sommelier seemed very knowledgeable… which is good, unless he is making two fairly informed wine connoisseurs feel like kindergarteners. Even when presented with wines we weren’t particularly fond of, we were told why they were great, and he poured. Shame shame.

Note to Telepan patron: We could have done a much better job from the list, and actually enjoyed what we drank.

And last?

Dessert was dessert.

I hate writing this blog, as I love living and eating on the Upper West Side. I love my corned beef from Artie’s, I love the steak frites at Nice Matin, I love my flat sesame bagels from Tal. There are good eats in our neighborhood… and a few institutions that can present terrific meals.

But on this evening, Telepan wasn’t one of them. Was is good for the UWS? I guess so. Can it compete on the level of food and service with a joint down in the village. Uh, no.

But I guess that’s ok...as I don’t want to give this area a bad wrap.

I mean, this is the Upper West Side.

Find My Egg Rolls: Win $50

An Addiction to Frozen Eggs Rolls Leaves A Blogger Desperate



Someone once said that you could find anything in New York... and if you couldn't, it wasn't worth having.

I beg to differ.

I am addict. I'll admit it. My addiction is anything wrapped up in a pillow of dough or wrapper... and steamed, baked or pan fried. The dumpling, pot sticker, ravioli, pierogie and egg roll.

But what makes this addiction hard to deal with is the difficulty in obtaining the goods. Sure I can find a box of frozen egg rolls in the grocery store, but as those who share my addiction will attest, there are very few brands worth putting in your cart.

The king of egg rolls? Easy.

The brand is Michelina. The man is Jeno Paulucci. The magic?

Yu-Sing brand, Chicken Egg Rolls.

Those junkies out there that know egg rolls, may know Jeno. He is one of the most famous frozen food entrepreneurs alive. The son of Italian immigrants, Jeno began his incomparable career as a fruit stand barker in the 1940s, paving the way for him to begin his improbable Chinese foods company Chun King. He would go on to create Wilderness pie fillings and Jeno's Pizza. Yes, Jeno's pizza rolls! He would later open Michelina's, a tribute to his mother... and by far, his best venture.

But make no bones about it, the Yu-Sing brand Egg Roll is the best egg roll on the market today (this is coming from yours truly, a frozen egg roll connoisseur). If this was vodka, we'd be talking the Ketel One of Egg Rolls (compared to the current Chung King variety, which I would liken to a bottle of Popov).

If you hadn't had these gems, I would liken them to crack cocaine. Why?

They're perfect. The wrappers are super crunchy and never greasy. The fillings are great, and not full of some nasty paste made of cabbage and mystery meat. They are large in size and not tiny like the inferior and generally disgusting egg rolls on the market.

I first got addicted to these about 6 years ago. Living in Southern California, I had a terrible time finding them in LA (Albertsons would carry them on occasion, but rarely). Having a cabin up in the mountains, I would make the trek to Lake Arrowhead several times a month... and always stop at the terrific gourmet grocery store "Jensen's" to pick up my wares for the weekend.

Low and behold, they carried the egg rolls.

I bought so many boxes, the manager made sure he reordered in time for my next visit.

Imagine a shopping cart with fresh pasta, breads, San Marzano tomatoes, asparagus, peppered brie, ground veal, cornichons and 10 boxes of frozen egg rolls.

So here is your challenge. Find these egg rolls. Win money. I need my Yu-Sing.

Here are the rules:

1. First person to email me (amika3@aol.com) with the location of the egg rolls wins. Egg rolls must be in stock at the store when I arrive. Price doesn't matter, I'll pay anything.

2. The brand must be Michelina's YU-SING Chicken or Shrimp Egg Rolls. No others will qualify, period.

3. The egg rolls must be located in Manhattan. NO EXCEPTIONS!

Can you find them? No doubt, some Mom and Pop grocer carries them in NYC, so off you go. I know you could use the $50.... hell, thats an appetizer at Per Se!


Get Your Pierogie On

Moving to NYC, I was thrilled to learn that a thriving polish community would allow me to feed my pierogie fetish. Growing up eating cajun/polish food, I fell in love with pierogie at a young age, but almost never ate them.. as my polish grammy lived in New Hampshire.

Over the years I have learned how to make them myself... a rewarding but long process, that leaves you with a sore back. 8 hours in the kitchen can do that.

A few years ago, I did find an alternative.... mail order. And as much as it pains me to say it, these little babies are as good as any I can pick up in the East Village. If you don't believe me, order a few dozen and see for yourself!

Who?
Pierogies Plus
http://www.pierogiesplus.com/

Where?
Online, from their little shop in Pennsylvania

Why?
One word. Helen. She's been making pierogie for 50 years. And these guys make them by hand. This is the real deal.


What?
I've never been a potato pierogie guy... my variety is sauerkraut and mushroom. She also makes a terrific sauerkraut and kielbasa. I understand the hot sausage is quite good as well!

How?
Order online and wait. They come fresh, to your door. Then, get out your non-stick skillet and heat it up. Add a chunk of your favorite butter, and place them in. Fry the pierogie in the butter, turning them until they are crunchy golden brown on both sides. Salt and pepper, a dollop of sour cream and Katie bar the door.


Fall Is Here, And You Need Your Gumbo

Yes, fall is finally arrived in the big apple, and it's soup time.

Well, at my house, that means gumbo and a hunk of crusty bread. For those of you who have no idea how to make a pot of real gumbo, I am re-publishing the recipe for you here. Remember, this recipe may look big, but having a quart of the stuff in your freezer on an icy day is a good thing.



Andre’s Gumbo Like I Like It

(Shrimp and Okra Version)

4- 5 Quarts Chicken Stock
4 pounds frozen okra
1 lrg can of diced tomatoes
1 regular can of diced tomatoes
2 large white onions, diced fine
3 tablespoons vegetable oil
1/⁄2 teaspoon chopped garlic, fine
1⁄/2 teaspoon salt
1/⁄2 teaspoon black pepper
3/⁄4 cup all purpose flour
3⁄/4 cup vegetable oil
3 tablespoon of lea and perrin’s
2 tablespoons crystal hot sauce (or frank’s)
1 1⁄/2 tablespoons of creole seasoning (Emerils or Tony’s or your own)
2 bay leaves
1 teaspoon basil
1 teaspoon oregano
1⁄/2 teaspoon thyme
2-3 tablespoons Kitchen Bouquet
Salt and pepper to taste
1 cup chopped parsley, fine
4 pounds peeled medium shrimp
Chopped green onions

In a separate pot, heat 3 tbl vegetable oil, and sauté white onions. Add garlic, frozen okra and tomatoes, season with salt and pepper, and cook over medium low heat until tender (at least an hour, if not longer). Okra should be very tender and want to break up. In a large stockpot, heat oil (3/4 cup) and add flour to make roux. Stir constantly over medium heat, making sure not to burn. Bring to desired color… peanut butter color is recommended for best flavor. Once desired color is reached, whisk in chicken stock, 4 qts first and save the rest if needed (chicken base dissolved in water can also be used , but NOT bullion). Add seasonings (wet and dry) and kitchen bouquet for desired color (a rich, dark brown is perfect). Add okra mixture and bring to boil. Reduce to low simmer, and cook for 1 1/⁄2 hours. Last half hour, add shrimp and parsley and simmer and very low temp, not to overcook shrimp. Serve in bowls, topped with a scoop of cooked long grain rice and top with sprinkle of green onion.

Gumbo is best if cooked day before. Make sure to cool completely before storing in fridge.... if not, the mixture will bubble and MUST be thrown out, as the onions will certainly turn.

*** Tips on Making a Roux

More than anything else, it's the roux that gives gumbo its particular character. Making roux is something of an art. It may take some practice to get good results. If dark specks appear, or if you smell something burning, you'll need to throw out the roux and start over. Don't try to base your gumbo on a burnt roux!

That said, let's make a medium colored Cajun roux, peanut butter in color. A Cajun roux is just flour cooked in fat until it acquires a darker color and a rich, complex, somewhat smoky flavor with nut-like overtones. Some folks have claimed that one can make a roux in the oven or even in the microwave, omitting the fat, but the one true way is to cook the roux on the stove top in a deep, heavy skillet or Dutch oven. The catch is that it will take plenty of time to cook the roux at the proper temperature so that it doesn't burn, and that you will need to stir constantly, working pretty hard the whole time. Some use a large whisk or a large spatula to keep the roux moving, but I find that a large, long-handled wooden spoon works best for me.

The choice of fat does affect the taste of the gumbo. Lard and bacon fat are the traditional choices (sometimes blended together), but other animal fats, or even vegetable oil or shortening, may be used. I prefer using a good vegetable oil. The choice of fat may be influenced by the kind of gumbo you are going to make -- duck fat for a duck and sausage gumbo, for example. You may decide to use vegetable fats for a seafood-only gumbo, and animal fats for your other gumbos.

Regular bleached all-purpose flour is fine for a roux. The proportions of flour to fat vary depending on how thick you want the roux to be. Approximately two parts flour to one part fat works well for me. If I need about a cup of roux, I use a cup of flour and about half a cup of oil, perhaps increasing the quantity of fat by a tablespoon or two depending on the result I'm looking for that day.

Toloache: Can Good Lead to Great?

There is promise, but little time for this midtown newcomer


First things first. New York is short on good Mexican restaurants. Period.

This is not an observation, but unfortunately a fact. While there is many a place slinging messy burritos, there are few places in the city that can give you a memorable dining experience in this genre. You know it to be true (and don’t be bringing your Rosa Mexicano all up in this).

Alas! Toloache enters the fray.

When I first heard of Toloache I reacted like most…. hmmm, a mexican place in midtown, and worse, in the theatre district. Here comes Chi-Chi’s.

But after a good deal of research, I learned that this effort was honest, and that a great deal of attention had been given to this launch... from design to menu. There is hope!

And then, I went.

Where Toloache actually falls is kinda in the middle of what I had hoped for…. either a killer baja taco joint, or an exquisite regional Mexican restaurant (think of Frontera Grill or Topolobampo in Chicago).

Let’s look at the good and the bad.

First the good.

There is genuine effort here, and it shows. The menu is eclectic, the dishes well made and the space functional.

The bad?

It is waaaaay overpriced, even for midtown… and there is little subtlety in the creation of dishes that could very easily go from OK to amazing. There is very little balance here.

The real question facing the owners and kitchen is will Toloache make the small, detailed changes that flips good restaurants into great ones.

The menu itself is more sexy at first look until the dishes are explained. It’s then you learn that the taco plates (priced from $9 - $14) are actually two small, 2-bite baja-sized tacos. Even as an appetizer portion, ouch.


I love love love the idea of a fresh guac bar, but at $20 for 3 small bowls, don’t come hungry. The guacamole is well made and inventive, but the scarcity of the guac itself is a shocker when sharing with a party of 4. They need to rethink this one.

In my opinion, the main course dishes are somewhat out of balance… taste wise. My highly recommended and wonderfully tender Carne Asada, a grilled grass-fed skirt steak with and inedible potato gratin, bland guacamole and incredibly overbearing mole cheese enchilada was a dish gone wrong. I find it hard to imagine screwing up a dish when you start with such a great cut of meat… but the sides on this plate were so out of whack, I literally ate the steak and left the others. A fresh mixture of citrus-based sides with a well seasoned starch would have been just fine with a great cut of beef… what I got was a mole so strong I could smell it when it left the kitchen.

The Enchiladas De Pollo, with dried fig mancha manteles salsa, green apple salad and various mexican cheeses seemed to have a better basic recipe, but still lacked the wow factor I was looking for. It looked to be a large, filling choice… but if you are looking for a value plate of Mexican stuff, you should locate the Chevy’s a few blocks away.

The “Carnitas De Lechon” brick oven roasted suckling pig with habanero-sour orange salsa, cactus avocado and chicharron salad was thought to be the most exciting prospect of the evening, but again fell short. The dish was aggressive in gamey pork flavor, an aspect the other ingredients couldn’t overcompensate for.

Again, the intentions here were good… the preparation not so good.


I don’t want to discount what Toloache is doing here, because some of it is cool. Although the room itself (downstairs and up) is cramped and tight, this would be a great after work meeting place for a margarita and a few small plates… including the avocado or cactus fries. The guac bar is a cool addition. The open kitchen is full of energy. The design is hip and appropriate.

That said, the bar has it’s failures (a $10 frozen margarita is tasty but expensive for what looked like a lime slurpee in a cocktail glass… and a tequila shot came in a wine flute) but can be fine for an app and cold beer.

The verdict?

Refine. Look at the dishes. Adapt. Attention to detail… including taste and textures. The food is coming through this kitchen at such high speed that there is no way anyone is doing any type of quality control. Tweaks to the basic menu as well as an upgrade in service will in me over.

Until then, I’m still looking for a decent baja taco joint.


Toloache
251 W 50th St- Btwn Bway & 8th Ave
New York, NY 10019

212 581-1818

Shendy's Halal Cart: Chicken and Rice is Oh So Nice.

The demise of the NYC hot dog rears its delicious head



It happens every time.

I'm walking down 6th Avenue... running and errand, meeting a friend at McCormick and Schmick’s for their fantastic happy hour special... cutting across midtown... and it hits me.

The smell.

Sure, NYC food carts emit smells (and some emit odors)... but this smell is special. It's the intoxicating smell of marinated chicken, onions and peppers with some crazy-ass magic juice splashed on top.

I stop, stare at the cart, and contemplate.

Can I eat this? Is there time to eat this? Have I eaten already? Do I have dinner reservations in an hour? Is there a bathroom nearby? Crap that smells fantastic.

Then, I slowly walk up, pretending that I was going to eat there the entire time, and place my order.

"I'll have a chicken and rice, with a pita. White sauce and hot sauce."

Then the magic begins. The dude uses his samurai spatula and drags a pile of simmering chicken over to the hot side of the griddle. He pauses to grab the grill scraper, scrapes the griddle clean...(purposely long) and continues to cook and chop my chicken.

Meanwhile, he grabs a white container with some lettuce already aboard, and scoops 2 or 3 generous spoons of a yellowish rice pilaf thing in to the bottom. Here we go.

At left, a photo of a typical chicken and rice container in Midtown Manhattan



Soon, he chops the remainder of the chicken, gives it one last squirt of magic juice, and transfers the chicken to the rice container. He slices my grilled pita into 8 wedges, covers the chicken in a white "tahini-yogurty" type sauce, gives a squirt of hot sauce (almost like a Chinese chili sauce) and transfers the prized 3-pound box of food to my waiting arms.

"That's 4 bucks."

I am thinking, this is the deal of the century.

So if you think you know which Halal Cart I am referring to, you should pause a moment... it's not the famed cart across from the Hilton on 53rd and 6th.... it's actually Shendy's Halal on 52nd and 6th.

Sure, the cart on 53rd is amazing, but who has that kinda time? I mean, I compared the two, and really couldn't tell the difference… well, maybe the white sauce, but again….

Now, the other carts that serve halal-style chicken and rice up and down 6th Avenue... should be avoided. For instance, the halal carts in front of my building on 50th and 6th are just bad. The flavor is lacking, they can be largely messy, and to top it off, the chickens still come with some joint bones, etc... which makes for a crappy meal.

Shendy's does more than chicken and rice, but doesn't pretend that chicken and rice isn't their best dish. The lunchtime demand reinforces this daily.

What the hell is halal?

Well if you look it up, it basically says "In Arabic-speaking countries, the term is used to describe anything permissible under Islamic law".

This is directed at diet in this instance, meaning that everything in that cart was A-O-K... well, if you come from and Arabic-speaking country.

So what are you waiting for? Go get ya a chicken and rice from Shendy’s. The line will stink, it will take 10 minutes and the container will burn you hands.

But it will be worth it. Take it from me.

Bohemian Hall and Beer Garden: A NY Treasure

Step Back In Time, and Eat Like a (Czech) King



If I wouldn't have gone for myself, I would have never believed it.

It was only a week ago... and there I was. Sitting under the trees on park benches, drinking cold Czech beer and eating pierogies... with about 500 people.

The place is the famous Bohemian Hall and Beer Garden in Astoria, Queens, and if you haven't been... well, you haven't experienced one of the most authentic destinations in NYC.

Why is the Bohemian Hall and Beer Garden magic?

Well...

1. They have just about every beer brewed in Eastern Europe, and most of them on tap. They come in great mugs that refill from your enormous pitcher. This they bring you while you sit under a tree outside in their Beer Garden, under an umbrella or shady tree. Got your attention?!

2. They have an outdoor grill that grills homemade Klobasa sausages, and serves them with rye bread, fries, sauerkraut, dumplings and cucumber salad. Here we go.

3. They have a real menu of... ready?.... Chicken Paprikash, Chicken Schnitzel, Chicken Bohemka, Beef Goulash & Dumplings, Potato Pancakes, tender Mushroom Pirogi and Smažený vepřový řízek & příloha (thats Breaded and fried pork cutlet served with Czech potato salad... oh my god). All of it is fantastic, and the real deal. Insane.

4. Almost nobody speaks decent english, and they don't care. You gotta love it.

5. It's affordable, and can be reached by by subway.

Take my word for it, this is simply a terrific place to bring a group, or even a buddy. It's screaming with history (the Beer Garden opened in 1919) and is infectious in spirit. WHere did these places vanish to?

Not to mention the size. I'm fairly sure this much property in Manhattan would run ya about $20 mil.

All of the info you need is in this link, so check it out and get the info you need to make the trip over. The hours can be a little funny, so make sure you don't arrive too early, or you'll be walking around the neighborhood for a while.

Have fun, and eat a plate of Goulash for me!

Fig and Olive: Slip Sliding Away

After a Decent Start, the Upper West locale falls into blah.



Ever since I learned about the hip and trendy "Fig and Olive" on NY's Upper East Side (and now downtown as well) I wanted to check it out... I mean, I am all about the concept of this place. Small plates... olive oils... great wine... I get it.

Well perhaps I waited too long, because my visit to Fig and Olive was a massive disappointment.

After being greeted kindly at the door, we were shown to an awkward, cramped table for three... which resembled 2 cocktail tables pushed together. OK, well, if the food is happening I can deal with this. But, I do like being comfortable when shelling out good money. Whatever, I'll deal with it.

From there, the evening (company aside thank god!) just failed.

Out came the bread. A basket of thin sliced, bland and chewy bread. It came with a dish of three olive oils, but I couldn't tell you what was what, as nothing was explained to us. I can tell you the olive oils were not high in quality... and this is coming from a cook (that's me) who has some pretty kick ass Olive Oil in his pantry.

The front page of the menu, a listing of small plates consisting of veggies, cheeses, crostini and tasting plates... were average if not below average at best. I ordered three crostini... the Artichoke Tapenade-Asparagus-Tomato-Parmesan, the Bresaola-Goat Cheese Black Olive Tapenade, and the Shrimp-Tomato-Basil-Lemon. All three were horrible on soggy lifeless bread (my god toast the bread at least?) and were quickly thrown together. The ideas here were good, but poorly executed. A crostini of warm grilled bread topped with the same ingredients and presented properly would have helped a great deal.

The group also ordered the fennel starter (again, average at best) as well as the Prosciutto Melon Carpaccio, which was by far the best dish.

Service waned here, and I'll be the first to admit that the three of us were talking up a storm (old friends catching up)... but the attitude from the waiter that we were putting him out by not having our order ready was inexcusable. Note to FIG and OLIVE: uh, we are the customers.... that means, we can take our time, visit... drink.... talk... whatever. So, get a grip.

When we finally placed our dinner order, the entrees solidified my feeling that the entire place had thrown in the towel. I ordered the Rigatoni Mediterraneo (shrimp, tomato, garlic, cilantro, chives in Sundried Tomato Olive Oil). This dish had decent flavor even if the pasta was overcooked and flat, but the 2 inches of oil in the bottom of this bowl showed the sloppy nature of lack of caring by this kitchen. What a waste.

My partner ordered the whole Branzino fish which was plopped down in front of her without an offer to debone. Our other guest ordered the Rack of Lamb special which he found decent. Nothing stood out.

Let me take a moment to remind those of you who read this blog that I don't go to restaurants to find things wrong. There is nothing I love more than a spot that gets it right. But when so many details are swept under the rug, I feel obligated to warn anyone who is planning on going. I have had far superior meals (even tapas) elsewhere... and after dropping $300 (food and 2 bottles of wine) I expect more.

So sadly, I blog about this place, disappointed and let down. It's a perfect example of an establishment that has decided to mail it in... after having some early success.

Well, in NYC, you need to bring your A-game, day in and day out. Those places that continue to push the envelope nail the details, and rethink their menus on a daily basis. At this rate, this Upper East Side locale will struggle to retain their buzz, and by looking around the place, I wasn't the only disappointed patron.

That's my story and I'm sticking to it.

Fig & Olive
808 Lexington Ave- Btwn 62nd & 63rd St
New York, NY 10021

Landmarc Making Waves At Time Warner

Don't Look Now, But The Newcomer Is Proving It Can Hang With The Big Boys


I've often complained about the food in the Time Warner Center. Bouchon Bakery aside, my main compliant hasn't been the quality of the food (god forbid).... it's been the price. I'm not screaming for an Orange Julius mind you, but when you and the wife want to go out for a great burger, bowl of pasta or side of hanger steak... well Per Se, Masa, Porterhouse and Cafe Grey don't fit the bill.

Enter Tribeca staple Landmarc, the terrific and gallant answer to this quandary.... and a space worthy of calling a Central Park destination.

What do they get right at Landmarc? Well, just about everything. The first thing they figured out... breakfast. They serve it. And well. Baguettes, chocolate chip pancakes, egg sandwiches and killer omelettes. Wash it down with a Bloody Mary and you're ready for that 9am meeting with the boss. Remember, I warned you.

They get lunch right, too... but it's dinner when Landmarc shines, when the food is right on and can match the spectacular views over a lush Central Park. Stunning.

Dinner for myself and companion of 17 years started with a perfectly shaken martini and a half bottle of Pino. No wines by the glass at Landmarc may be their lone mistake (at least carry ONE you can call the house pour and charge $12) but in their defense they carry a wide variety of half bottles and bottles in affordable fashion.

While I am a fan of several of their salads, I'm not sure that any can come close to the Sauteed Shrimp with Frisée, artichokes and capers. Tossed in a warm mustard vinaigrette, this dish could steal the show at damn near any restaurant in town.... I'm just glad it's in my neighborhood! The balance of flavor in this dish is terrific, and I'm fairly sure the guys in the kitchen know it. Home run.

Landmarc carries a well crafted pasta special daily, but I tend to stick to the base menu as the dishes have been time tested.

Steaks are a fine choice at Landmarc, if not a safe one. The ribeye, full of flavor and very tender, is a no-brainer. With a number of sauces on the side (bernaise, peppercorn, etc) you can get the flavor just right even though they survive well on their own.

The grilled pork chop is terrific, the quail well above average and the rock shrimp risotto is downright decadent. With it's bright neon-orange color, the perfectly cooked risotto is loaded with tender shrimp and lobster butter, making for a rich, rewarding meal. I didn't even mind the "heavy" rosemary the waiter warned me about.

There are specials here too, such as oysters, sweetbreads, calf's liver and steak tartare... but all of these dishes can be had at much stuffier joints, for much higher prices. Not that Landmarc doesn't nail them... I just can't get a burger and an ice cream cone at Bouley.

So by now you are getting that I like this place. Yes the location is spectacular, and yes, the food is terrific... but it's neither that make Landmarc a winner.... it's the little things.

It's the obvious attention to detail by the owners and staff. The smile and greeting at the door. The great cocktail. The never empty water glass. The honest recommendations. The superb design. The hot food. All things you have come to expect at a good NYC restaurant, but sometimes have problems finding. This is where Landmarc wins.

Add it all together... and you get solid. Solid as a rock.


Landmarc
10 Columbus Circle- At 60th St
New York, NY 10019

212 823-6123


André recommends: Sauteed Shrimp Salad, the burger, any steak, risotto and ice cream cones and cotton candy for desert.

Worth The Trip

Put Down That Nasty Cart Stuff, Maoz Is Simply NYC's Best Falafel


It wans't long ago I was hanging out in Amsterdam near the T.O. Centraal Station, figuring out how to get to my hotel. Hungry for something, I spotted a small falafel kiosk across the street with a line out the door. Hmmmmm. More often then not, lines = good food.

Little did I know that the Maoz kiosk right there in Amsterdam would change my life. Yes, for a lover of falafel, it simply is the best, anywhere. I would wind up eating there 4 times in 5 days.

So imagine my excitement when I found out that Maoz, the little falafel shop that could, was opening in NYC... incredible.

Over the weekend (on my way to watch my New Orleans Saints at a downtown sports bar) I made a little detour to the Union Square area to grab one of these gems, and wasn't disappointed. They are still simply the best.

What makes them special?

To begin, it's the falafel itself. This isn't grainy, bland stuff. This chickpea blend is moist on the inside, not dry... and crunchy on the outside. The mixture is spiced with a great blend of spices... and it is served hot. It is packed with flavor, which makes for a great sandwich.

Then, you get great fresh pita. White or wheat, name your flavor.

Next, our friends invite you to dress this masterpiece yourself, with a bar of condiments that make you downright giddy. Terrific salsa-type toppings (Chili, cilantro, etc), fresh onions, cucumbers, carrots, cabbage salads, etc..., as well as yogurt and tahini sauces. By the time you are done, you are trying to figure out how to put the damn thing in your mouth.

Now, if you are reading all of this, and it sounds great, but you aren't a falafel fan... listen up. NEITHER WAS I! But there is just something about this sandwich which will convert the biggest of beef lovers.... and it is taste. You owe it to yourself to make the trip and get one of these babies.... you won't be sorry.

Maoz. It really is the world's best falafel, and we have our own store now... right here in NYC.

SHORT ORDERS

Being a self proclaimed lover of cart food here in NYC, I had a container of chicken and rice from Shendy's last week (corner of 51st and 6th). Low and behold, it was downright fantastic. Get it with pita and the white sauce. Hell yea.

Sushi hot spot KOI has the famous crispy tuna roll, the sushi that liberated Los Angeles. If you hadn't had yours yet, impress the hell out of your friends and get there.

Eat Out 07 is happening next weekend, so if you need tickets, you can find them here.

I sure as hell hope you use Menupages as often as I do.

If you haven't tried Chicago legend GARRETS POPCORN,now in NYC... you have no idea what you are missing. The blend of cheese, butter and caramel is insane, and will have you waiting in lines you never thought possible....

BACK ON THE BLOCK!

Done with A Summer of Projects, André is back and In action......

Greetings Foodies. I'm back!

Not just kinda back, or back in a bi-monthly way... I'm back with you this fall season to guide you to the best eats in NYC... on a regular basis.

I've missed you!

To jump squarely into the middle of the fray, I won't blog any one joint today, but I'll give you an overview of what is shakin here in NYC, as well as a few bites from my recent travels up the coast. I'm headed to Paris this week, so please chew on these goodies for a week...

ON THE WEST COAST
As our friends in LA continue to bake in the "I told you Global Warming Was Real" summer heat, Mario's "Osteria Mozza" continues to dominate the headlines. Unfortunately for Mario, it's not all good. As I had a good experience, I have heard from several of very uneven meals, if not just downright bad. Given the newness of the venture and the pressure to be on every single night, I'll cut them a small bit of slack here... but one thing is for sure... the celebs love the joint and as long as it remains hot, people will flock and spend.....

Of course, Katsuya continues to attract the beautiful peeps as they ready to open their newest outpost in Hollywood.... but hey, you don't need to be a celeb to love the crispy tuna roll, do you? (Do yourself a favor and visit katsuya on 3rd and save $50 a person :)

UP THE MAINE COAST
I recently had a chance to decompress on a quick visit to beautiful Camden and Bar Harbor and came away with these thoughts on my experience....

First, it's simply too bad that everyone and their mom now knows how beautiful the Maine Coast is.... the crowds were massive, and the traffic no fun. Add hour long waits for a table at the local lobster joints and the place gets downright pesky.

Next, don't go looking for luxe accommodations in Maine. You can find charming, sweet, friendly, quaint and homey... but not luxe.

And last, it may not matter. The scenery in Bar Harbor (Acadia National Park) is so incredible, you feel as if you have entered an Disney-esqe theme park of natural wonder. I met 100 people who had the same "oh my god" look on their face I did, as the fog rolled across the sound and swirled around the lighthouses. This is spectacular stuff.

DINING TIP OF THE DAY: Local lobster shantys: GOOD. The lobster place "Stewman's" on the water in Bar Harbor? HORRIFIC. The biggest tourist trap in the state of Maine contines to pack em in, but I can tell you that I've spent my last dime being treated like some ding-a-ling that just feel off of a bus from Des Moines. Shame on you, Stewmans.... Thurman's is worth the drive across the Island, and the lobster is sweeter, too!


THE CITY THAT DOESN'T SLEEP
Where to begin??!! Here is a quick blast to get you in the know....

Quality Meats is still All That.
I hit Quality Meats a week ago and can happily report that they are still doing great things. Everything we ordered that night was right on, and the wine and cocktails were perfect. Hey, if you are gonna spend some cash, might as well get what you pay for, huh?

Landmarc Turning Heads at Time Warner Center
I waited what seems forever for a normal restaurant to open in the Time Warner Center, where you can spend all of the money you never had on decedent junk... and I am happy to report that Landmarc was worth the wait. With a cool bar, excellent cocktails, a hip lounge area on the side and view of Central Park, this spot is now my first call in the area, without spending $200 a person on dinner (and thats on the low end in that building... Per Se, Masa, Porterhouse, etc....) The steaks and chops are great, the pasta well prepared, the sides creative... and dessert...... well, when is the last time the waiter brought the table a wispy cloud of banana-flavored coton candy? I though the kids at the next table were going to have heart attacks.

La Esquina, Say It Ain't So!
In case you missed it, the underground lair of magical molé has been shuttered... as it seems our friends La Esquina never got the basement permitted by our friends at City Hall and the NYFD. Now that I think about it, a fire down there could be a bad thing on a busy Friday night....

Get Ready For Pierogies
I placed a call to the folks at First Avenue Pierogie and Deli (not sure about the deli part, as they really only sell pierogies and borscht) at 130 First Ave, and have been told that the dear old polish woman will reopen this week, after her annual break. Finally, I can get off of the crap from Dagastino Grocery and get the real crack that I deserve :)

Gemma a Miss
The new Bowery hot spot Gemma opened recently, and I met a friend for a quick bite and chat on a hot, deserted afternoon. I understand the mood and feel of the dreary day dictated the crap service I received, but the horrible food makes me scratch my head and wonder.... what the hell they are thinking? There is a bar of quality in this town when it comes to Italian food, and unless you are over the bar, you should save the time and effort and serve Beefaroni.

HERE AND THERE
BLT Market is now open on CPS and the smells wafting onto the sidewalk are almost too temping to stroll past... my favorite quickie dumpling joint RICKSHAW DUMPLING BAR has opened a store near NYC on 8th.... BarFry has finally opened in the West Village for those of you who need to eat all of your food fried, all of the time..... For those of you who enjoy a good cigar now and then, Davidoff in the Time Warner Center has re-opened their tiny smoking room in the back... Has anyone been to SpotLight??? I wish Dylan Prime had better food.... Koi, the sexy japanese joint in midtown actually serves the Crispy Tuna Roll, the single dish that set LA on fire..... Turtle Bay on the East Side (52 and 2) might possibly be NY's worst run bar....

Let The Games Begin: Where Is The Top Dog?

It's NYC vs. LA in the War of the Wiener


Before the complaints begin, yes, I know, it is entirely possible that the best hot dog in America doesn't exist in LA or NYC.... could it be the Varsity in Atlanta? or perhaps Gold Coast Dogs in Chicago?.... dare I say a Lucky Dog cart in the French Quarter?

Well for the sake of a massive case of indigestion and incremental yet substantial weight gain, I'll keep this initial battle between the two cities I know best... NYC and LA.


THE CONTENDERS

NEW YORK


Grey's Papaya: The old, cheap stand by is the self proclaimed king of street eats








Nathan's Famous: The dog that started it all








Katz's Deli: The famous village deli can make a mean deli style dog









LOS ANGELES




Pink's: The reigning champ is having it's share of problems











Skooby's: Coming hard and fast to take the top spot











The Weiner Factory: Is LA's Top Dog in the Valley?








LET THE GAMES BEGIN


Stop #1 on this, the battle of the wiener, was Skooby's... the hot little stand on Hollywood Blvd in Los Angeles.


The Place
Don't expect much. Skooby's is a smallish, cramped space on a somewhat scary stretch of Hollywood Blvd. There is one lonely table within (a horrific experience if the place is packed) and a counter and 2 tables outside. It is somewhat clean, and organized which is a good thing, as when these guys get busy the place can look as if a bomb went off inside. Generally speaking, they do a fantastic job of getting you served in short fashion... with hot food.

The Bun
Extra points here. These are more than Hot Dog buns, they are homemade rolls that are grilled to perfection, warm and toasty. Genius.

The Wiener
A classic, meaty, snapskin dog. It is mild in flavor, and although I like mine with a bit more spice, it was still way better than 90% of the lifeless, bland dogs you'll usually find out there.


The Deal
Skooby's has a belief, which I concur... the best Hot Dog is often one you make yourself... I mean, only you know exactly how much mustard you like... so, basic dogs at Skooby's come plain, so you can dress them with the basics, found on the counter... plain and spicy mustard, onions, relish, kraut, hot sauces, etc....

Other dogs include a chili cheese dog with Guinness Chili and a garlic dog... but skip the extra dogs, you won't need them. The fries here are the deal. They are homemade from a box of real potatoes in plain view, and fried to crispy perfection, served with an addictive garlic aioli... (think Zankou sauce, but creamy and made for fries). Oh yea, the make delicious fresh squeezed lemonade as well. Look out Pinks.

THE VERDICT

Killer stuff. Great work on the details have vaulted Skooby's to the top of the LA heap in many peoples minds. This will certainly be a high contender to win my TOP DOG award. Pink's get ready... the bar has been set high!

Mario's LA "Osteria Mozza"... It's All That

And You Think Babbo and Lupa are Good......


Hi There Foodies!

Well, I guess another apology is in order. It's been ages since I have updated this blog, and I am guessing that many of you have moved on. But for those of you who find themselves looking for straight talk, I've wrapped my globe trotting assignment, and I'm back and raring to go.

The bad news for you New Yorkers is that this installment of Fork NY is about a restaurant you may not be able to get to easily... Mario Batali and Nancy Silverton's new Osteria Mozza, on the corner of Highland and Melrose in sunny Los Angeles.

Let's talk about food.

For those of you who haven't heard about the Batali-Silverton partnership, it is one made in heaven. The duo opened Pizzeria Mozza nearly 6 months ago, to much fanfare. Expectedly, the joint quickly became a favorite.. and was crowned King of LA pizza.

But make no bones about it, it's the Osteria that foodies have been waiting for, and last Friday the doors to heaven opened.

Lucky for me, a swung a reservation this week, a feat that most have been unable to accomplish. With most reservations taking a month or more, I luckily landed what I now believe to be a cancellation, and boy am I happy I did.

When you enter the space, you can't help but notice that 1. It's a handsome space (even if it is facing a gas station and a Jiffy Lube), and 2. There is a mozzarella bar smack dab in the middle of the room.

The menu is basically divided into Antipasti, Mozzarella, Primi, Secondi and Contorni.

As a group of 4 we ordered 2 antipasti and 2 mozzarella dishes, and devoured all four plates in about 3 minutes. The Gnocco Fritto with affetati misti was wonderful... mixed sliced ham and salume with lightly fried square pillows of dough, but the grilled octopus stole the show. The marinated, smoky octopus was incredibly tender, and surprisingly addictive.

As for mozzarella, we couldn't help but order the burrata with asparagus, walnuts and brown butter... as well as the bufala with pesto. Both were winners.

As we moved towards primi selections, I reverted back to my Lupa ways. At Lupa, I often don't order a secondi... I order another primi (love the pasta). Since I firmly believe that Mario's strong suit is pasta, I get my fill... and this meal was no different. I guess this makes some sense, as 2 others at the table also ordered a second pasta.

Let's talk pasta.

There are no huge suprises here for the Batali crowd... you have the signature pork infused dishes here and there, but as usual, the simple dishes like the Linguine cacio e pepe (cheese and pepper) is out of this world. The orrechiette with sausage and swiss chard was hearty and fragrant, the Goat Cheese Ravioli near perfect... and the large fresh riccota and egg raviolo (one massive ravioli) with browned butter was nearly an out of body experience.

Wonder why we ordered more?

There was also tortellini, an agnolotti with butter, an amazing looking gnocchi, a classic spaghetti with clams and panceta... and a perfectly cooked garganelli with a light bolognese. This is pasta heaven, and Mario's hand is present in the perfectly cooked pasta, always on the al dente side of firmness.

The other dishes looked incredible.. a pink snapper, an orata filet, a grilled salmon, grilled quail, grilled lamb, grilled beef (so they like the grill I am guessing) as well as slower prepared Beef Brasato and a Guinea Fowl with liver panceta sauce the waiter nearly forced us to order (we opted for the pasta). One of the diners in our party did order a wonderful pork "arista" with fennel and onions... and took it home as we had warned... to much food.


Side dishes looked spectacular, and included roasted potatoes, long cooked broccoli, marinated peppers, yellow wax beans, cipolline, spinach and broccoli rabe.

Deserts also looked amazing, but feeling mighty full, we passed....

So yes, the place is fab, and yes the food is great... but don't worry Mario fans, he and Nancy are all about the details. Our drinks were carried from the bar, the cheese dishes were carefully crafted and the orrechiette topped with fresh, crispy bread crumbs for an added texture that made the dish. It's all there.

So make the rezo, or walk in early early. You'll have a killer meal. The days of those who love terrific regional italian food missing out are over. I love many LA italian spots, but mark my words.... the king has arrived.

Around The World in 80 Days

André is Back In The US And Has Stories To Tell




First, I guess an apology is in order. As some of you may know, I am producing the worldwide and domestic broadcast of LIVE EARTH on 7.7.07, and the workload and schedule of this project hasn’t allowed me the opportunity to contribute to this blog as often as I wish… so I’ll use this opportunity to talk about world travel and eating across the globe.

Not to ignore New York or LA where much is happening on the scene…. In New York, where the Dept of Health continues its post-Taco Bell rat rampage, some of the city’s more famous spots continue to shutter...and then reopen. The NYC scene is the most vital and everchanging in the world today, so I would suggest you hit www.eater.com to stay on top of it.

In LA, where the newest Pinkberry location shares headlines with the stargazing at the insanely popular Mozza, the scene is heating up. Culver City is becoming a destination (did I actually say that?) and West Hollywood continues to blossom. While the new Katsuya may be the sexist joint in LA, this is a town where the new Dougboys location gets the same amount of press in the blogs.

Traveling around the world the last few months have been a culinary eye-opener for me… as I revisited several of my favorite spots, and discovered new gems. To try and keep these thoughts somewhat organized, lets blast through the world in an orderly fashion, shall we?

THE UNITED KINGDOM

Getting There:
My airline of choice remains Virgin Atlantic, where even a coach seat feels more special than some business class trips I have been on. On Virgin, Premium Economy is now the deal of all deals, as these seats have been exchanged for wider, more comfy reclining seats for a slightly higher price, and Upper Class… well, it’s simply the best class of service in the air today. Is there another airline that offers flat beds with duvets, order-at-will meals, a fully stocked bar and in flight massages? Thank you Sir Richard Branson.

What’s Great:
The pub scene remains unchanged, although a smoking ban is on the way. Still, is there nothing better than a plate of fish and chips with a cold pint in a pub that’s been around for 200 years? I think not. Sure, the Indian food remains the best in the world, the Chinese food in SoHo is killer and the mini celeb-chef community (Brian Turner, Gordan Ramsey, etc) continue their dominance, but the sum of these parts still equal a rather boring and lifeless scene compared to NYC, and Tokyo. Maybe this will never change.

What’s Not:
The money situation. Already expensive hotels and restaurants are now insane, thanks to the Pound dominance over the US dollar, now nearly 2-1. Broken down this means your taxi ride from Heathrow into the city will cost you $100 US dollars, a decent lunch $40 and a pint of beer $7. Ouch.

Final Thought:
Not much has changed here in the last 10 years, other than the giant wheel on the Thymes and the decline of the dollar. Do yourself a favor and hit Spain, where the scene is a bit spicier. Hell, Paris may be a better deal these days.

SOUTH AFRICA

Getting There:
A number of airlines fly into Johannesburg, but again I recommend Virgin from London if you begin this trip on the other side of the Atlantic. The red-eye flight from London is smooth, and waking up with your feet on South African soil is cool as it gets.

What’s Great:
Jo’berg (as it is referred to) is one of the most evolving cities in the world today. Known for its natural beauty, extreme poverty and renown crime streaks, the city is bursting at the seams with creative expression… evolving from a society now free of apartheid. The warmth of the people in South Africa is infectious, and their climb to become recognized as one of the world’s great destinations is inevitable.


Not knowing much about South African food, I was lured to “The Butcher Shop”, one of the more famous eateries in the country, at Nelson Mandela Square. Having been told that the beef would be some of the best I had ever eaten, I was skeptical…. I mean, I live in NYC.. give me a break.

Well, I stand corrected. This restaurant serves the best steak I have ever put in my mouth.

The secret? A small farm outside of Jo’berg that raises the cattle. The aging process. The preparation. Flawless. I’ve had Argentinean beef, Kobe beef, USDA Prime. Forget them all. This is the real thing. On top of the astounding quality of the meal itself, I scarfed down a large steak, giant baked white sweet potato, asparagus, 2 glasses of wine and desert for $37.25. And that was with a generous tip. Amazing.

What’s Not:
Well, there are many things not great, although signs point to continual improvement. The poverty is obvious as you drive through the city. The poor line the streets in affluent neighborhoods selling wares and cooking food on the sidewalks for those who work for the rich. Safety is a concern. Like in all cities, you need to be careful in Jo’berg as the areas change quickly.

Final Thought:
As I was leaving South Africa, I was already thinking about a return trip. For all of the problems here, the people and natural beauty are too much to overcome. There is a love of life and enduring spirit here that makes us pause in thought… this is the place where we evolved as humans (Maropeng is an hour north, where many believe is the birthplace of man). Humans shares over 99% of the same DNA… and nowhere is this more evident than South Africa… where you feel part of one human race.

GERMANY

Getting There:
Take your pick. Americans can fly from the US into many Germany cities (I was in Hamburg). Inter-euro flights on airlines like Easy Jet are cheap and fast. Train travel may be the most efficient in the world, next to Japan.

What’s Great:
Well, I have a soft place in my heart for Germany, and it’s mainly the street food. Yes, the wiener.

Is there anything better than walking up to an immaculate streetside kiosk, and ordering a hot, grilled bratwurst with mustard and crusty roll? Or a currywurst, in its sweet and tangy sauce? I think not. Forget German restaurants. I’m thrilled drinking cold German beer and eating off of the street.

Did I mention that Germany is clean? Having been to Berlin many times, my first trip to Hamburg was a completely different experience. This is one of the greenest cities on the planet, with lush, leafy trees lining nearly every city street. The inland lakes are stunning, and the Hamburg residents take every advantage of their natural surroundings by crowding beer gardens and cafes from morning to night.

Oh yea, you can buy just about any shoe on earth here. Hamburg folks dress to impress and love their shoes. Not to mention this is the birthplace and home of Nivea, so skincare and cosmetics are a big deal, too.

What’s Not:
Where Germans in Hamburg are polite, they are not downright friendly like the Italians or Polish. Don’t expect to get invited into someone’s house for dinner. Additionally, our friends in Hamburg don’t cater to english tourists. You’ll rarely find menus in english unless you are in a touristy area, and that’s if you are lucky.

Final Thought:
It’s all about the sausage. And the cigars. Yep, you can find good deals on Cubans here, so remember to take the bands off when you walk them through customs. Germany is a wonderful place to visit, but this isn’t one of those trips you begin looking for people with your same last name in the phone book or pretend you are apartment hunting. Enjoy and move on….

JAPAN

Getting There:
I prefer ANA Airlines. The folks at ANA may have the best service in the air, and the business class cabin looks like someone’s apartment. It’s that clean and nice. And you get cool ass Japanese slippers, too. The seats are built into beautifully crafted wooden encasements that include privacy dividers. The seats are comfy, even for those of us of large girth, and the food is terrific.

What’s Great:
Well, Japanese service. I’ve said for many years that Asian hotels set the world standard in service, and I still believe it. My stay at the Hilton Tokyo wasn’t the Park Hyatt in terms of opulence, but was terrific in it’s own right.

The other thing that makes Japan remarkable is its ability for the ancient and modern to coexist side by side. Make no mistake about it, Japan leads the world in technology and they use it in all facets of daily life, including urban planning. It’s fascinating to watch the millions of people in Tokyo move effortlessly through the city, and even more amazing to stumble across a Buddhist Temple a block away from a Starbucks.

Food wise, Japan is loaded with what you might think… sushi and noodles. My favorite dish, Tonkatsu, or a fried pork cutlet with steamed rice and Japanese pickles, is such a staple that there are outlets in the city that serve only that dish. There are still street side robato bars with tender, marinated grilled meats as well as steamed buns filled with sweet red bean paste. But believe me, there is more to Tokyo than traditional Japanese fare.

American and Euro-styled cooking is hot in Japan. Four and Five star restaurants abound in the city… and now more than ever, young upcoming chefs are traveling to Japan to craft their trades.

What’s Not:
Well, being from North America, jet lag still remains the #1 challenge of a trip to Japan, closely followed by the overwhelming amount of non-english signage. Did you see Lost in Translation? To top it all off, the longer then life airplane trip over is followed by an hour and a half train trip to the city from Narita Airport. Ouch. Lastly, as easy as it is to find people on the street who speak English in Europe, it is equally as difficult in Japan. You’ll be fine in tourist areas, but veer off the beaten path and you are on your own.

Final Thought:
I simply love Japan. From the modernist buildings and amazing hotels, to their ties to ancient tradition, this is a country that everyone should visit, if only once. Once the most expensive city in the world, Tokyo is now somewhat affordable… opening the doors to many who are now making it a destination of a lifetime.

CHINA

Getting There:
Good luck. It’s so far that no matter who you choose, your butt is going to be on fire by the time you get there.

What’s Great:
My trip to Shanghai was an adventure. I had been to Hong Kong, but let me tell you, Shanghai is about as different from Hong Kong as two cities can be.

Shanghai is the fastest growing business hub in the world today. In fact, 1/5 of the world’s construction cranes are in Shanghai. It’s taken Shanghai to build as many buildings in 12 years as it took NYC to build in 40. The buildings in Shanghai are unlike any you have ever seen… incredibly modern, gleaming structures, that look like a hybrid and Manhattan and Las Vegas. Really.

The hotels in Shanghai range from just OK to downright fantastic. The Westin Bund, a 10 minute stroll from the famous “Bund” walk, is an incredible facility with what I firmly believe is one of the best breakfast and lunch buffets in the world today. Imagine a buffet scattered throughout an opulent, lofted hotel lobby, that includes every item in an American, English and Japanese breakfast… and then add Chinese dumplings, steamed buns, noodles, tender pork, chicken, well you get the picture. Unreal. We ate for 2 hours.

Outside of the hotel, the experience is one of a kind. Walking the streets of Shanghai, vendors wok noodles and veggies on the sidewalk, shopkeepers water their produce and salesmen hawk cheap wares and cigarettes. I visited one of the most expensive restaurants in China as a special guest, and was rewarded with a setting that resembled a palace from the Ming Dynasty… almost like a movie set. While the food was delicious, the meal of my trip came later in the evening (or about 2:30am in the morning when the restaurants are still doing business) when I ate the best salt and pepper crab I have ever tasted in my life. Did I mention the pork dumplings? Wow.

By the way, the stuff I bought on the street was 1/10th the price of the hotel and airport shops. Do some street shopping and you’ll be well rewarded. I filled a bag with goodies and had spent $11 bucks.

What’s Not:
Getting around ain’t easy. Additionally the airport is an hour out of town, and in the middle of nowhere. Do yourself a favor and arrange a pickup from your hotel before you leave. Also, hailing cabs can be tricky, as the color of the cab usually dictates the expertise of the driver. Consult your hotel staff before you start hailing cabs off of the street in Shanghai. Believe it or not, many have no idea where even some simple places are located (or at least they pretend not to).

Final Thought:
Go. Go to China. They love meeting Americans, and they love selling their wares. Also, many of the misconceptions you may have about the far east will be put to rest. China has much to offer the world, and we should all be connected with their society as 1 in 6 humans live here. This is a fascinating culture, and I continue to understand more and more about them on each visit. Here is your opportunity to do the Olympics and visit an amazing place.


BRASIL

Getting There:
Any way you can, that doesn’t include a flight on Delta, the worst international carrier on the planet. If I meet one more 60 year old flight attendant, I’m going to jump out of a window.

What’s Great:
Well, Rio starts and ends with its beaches. The beach life here is hard to put into words, as life itself revolves around the sand on Copacabana, Impanema, Leblon and Bahia beaches. They hit the sand at dawn and remain until the wee hours of the morning, when they go home, take a nap, and repeat. They love life and enjoy simple pleasures.

Food in Brasil is rather straight forward… its all about meat. Churrasaria Porcao remains the favorite of the locals in Rio (you can find locations in NYC and Miami as well) but recently, more international friendly if not upscale restaurants have been stealing the headlines. That said, you can get the cutting edge fusion food anywhere, so why not embrace the meat? When in Rome.

What’s Not:
Well, it’s hard to look at the window from the ride into town from the airport without a lump in your throat. The poverty is so overwhelming, you can’t imagine anyone living in those conditions. Brasil has a long way to go to elevate their social classes and they know it.

Additionally, traffic is a major problem here, and continues to worsen. As the population grows, the roads continue to crumble… meaning that city leaders will need to take serious measures, and soon.

Final Thought:
Rio is unlike any city in the world. The terrain is special…and the city rests within the steep cliffs and green mountains of what you could call a visual paradise. Even though crime continues to be a real problem, you can have a safe and enjoyable trip as long as you stay in main areas and surround yourself with lots of people.


***** Do you know about Live Earth? To learn more, logon to www.LiveEarth.org and watch for our shows on all of the NBC television networks on 7.7.07.

News and Notes from NYC and LA!

With an hour to kill and a dirty martini, André is back in business....


First, an apology for the hiatus… your food-sleuth has been traveling the world, working on new projects… which means new scoop for you!

Note: in the next six weeks, your beloved blogger will personally visit restaurants in London, Johannesberg, Hamburg, Tokyo, Shanghai and Rio, so get ready to read about some crazy eats!...

What’s the latest in NYC and LA?



NYC
In Case You Missed It……. Chumley’s, the famous speakeasy in the West Village nearly imploded. The much-loved fireplace caved in, as did a few walls, and now the place is closed for repairs. Insiders tell me this could take 6 months….. Morandi may have weathered Bruni, and garnered a star… but honestly, the food is just so-so. It’s a loud, hey-look-at-me type of room, and those who want to nosh on really good stuff usually leave disappointed…. Speaking of Bruni, the feud between he and Chodorow may have died down, but the Kobe Club will still be the victim in all of this. The overpriced, slightly scary Disney-esqe steakhouse seems to be floundering a bit as their weeknight business continues to slip (you’ll find me across the street at Quality Meats)… and word has it that Chodorow has already begun concepting replacements for the spot, which has a locale that could really work, if they can get the concept right…. As you may have read, this blogger was pleased with the food at Café Gray recently (but not the service), and is very excited that Landmarc has opened in the Time Warner Center…. Finally, a place to eat that won’t set you back 2 Gucci wallets and a Coach purse….. Super-Mario has opened B & B at the Venetian in Las Vegas, and my dinner there last week was superb. What is it? Think 20% Lupa, 60% Babbo and 20% Del Posto, and then take Babbo prices and double them. This is Vegas, remember? By the way, longtime Vegas favorite Delmonico hasn’t slipped an inch, and continues to serves the best steak in sin city…. (I suggest you check out the newer restaurants at the Venetian next time you are there)…. Speaking of Vegas, the Aladdin Hotel is no more, and has now been officially replaced by the Planet Hollywood Hotel and Casino. Sure they spent millions on the refurb, and put a Pinks Hot Dog Cart next to the slots, but with high end dining consisting of a PF Chang’s, this will be the last you’ll hear of them on this page (but thanks to the casino, as I left with $250 of their money)…. NYC’s spot for best wine dinner “Cité” has officially closed… as has “Aegean” on the UWS…. (do I smell another Bank of America branch?)… this just in, New Yorkers have found Garrett’s Popcorn, the legendary Chicago mainstay (outside Penn Station)…. Trader Joe’s continues to gain customers in NYC, and the wine prices are driving local wine shops mad…. Tribeca Tavern will be serving up BBQ on the weekends for a while…. Funky LES hotel THOR is having severe kitchen problems with the exit of their chef(s)… let’s hope they can remedy that, and add something new down their, as the neighborhood couldn’t he hotter….

LA
The LA scene is a buzz with the rumor that Jonathan Morr may bring Bond Street to the Thompson Hotel… Culver City’s “Fraiche” is off and running, and my visit on a weekday night was met with the pleasant surprise that the locals have been waiting for another hip spot (other than Ford’s) to open and serve edible food…. Does anyone else wish that Barefoot on 3rd Street had better food?.... my best meal of the month award goes to “Katsuya” in Brentwood…. Being a longtime fan of the Ventura Blvd outlet, I was skeptical on my visit… and have come to realize the following. Are the prices nearly double? Yes. It the menu better? Yes. Do they nail the crispy tuna roll? Yes. It the décor better? Yes. Will I go back and drink swanky cocktails? Yes. Nuff said... I have a full review coming next week. In the valley, McCormick and Schmicks seems to be doing gangbuster business in their newer Burbank digs… but I found their service profoundly lacking compared to their other stores, and the food was average on my visit as well… and note to management: during crab season, try and serve some crabs, you ding-a-lings.....another Le Pain Quotidien has opened in LA, this one across the street from my pad on Robertson and Burton Way…. a welcome neighborhood addition, the place was buzzing the moment it opened…. Does anyone from LA actually eat at The Ivy?.... Did you know JetBlue serves Dunkin Donuts coffee? Now only if they could get my plane to land on time… and finally, when the hell will Osteria Mozza open? I am a loyal guy, but month-in-advance reservations for the pizza place next door is ridiculous... you are printing money in NYC, call the bank already....

Focus on LA: Locanda Veneta

The Old Beverly Hills Standby Just Gets Better




If only every neighborhood had a Locanda Veneta.

On assignment in Los Angeles, I find myself a leisurely 4-minute walk from this Beverly Hills gem… and believe me, I couldn’t be happier.

It was only 4 years ago when I lived in Los Angeles, and was use to making the trek over Coldwater from the Valley to have a meal here on occasion… but living in the Valley then I didn’t have a chance to visit with any regularity. In the coming months, I have a feeling I’ll be in once a week.

Locanda is the quintessential neighborhood spot. A small, well appointed room… friendly, almost family-like staff… and terrific food.


The room itself is shockingly small, but quaint. The front door literally drops you into the dining and kitchen… as the talented kitchen can peek across a ledge into the bustling busy dining space. I’ve always been amazed at how a kitchen this compact can dish out a menu this robust… and they still amaze. It takes some serious skill to be able to pull this off this well night after night.

The details at Locanda Veneta are a given. Upon being seated, you’ll find a creamy bowl of pesto spread and a basket of fresh crusty bread… but it’s the wine and daily menu that have brought the crowds back for years.

On this night, I started with a bottle of Row 11 Pino, priced slightly higher than I anticipated… but happily consumed. Row 11 is a real find for those of you who search for Pino Noir values at retail… and I highly recommend this wine. Go find a bottle of the 2004… it should run you about $34.

For an appetizer I ordered a dish of mild, crisp polenta cakes topped with caramelized onions and sautéed shrimp. The dish was well prepared and nearly perfect. The balance of the corn powered polenta with the sweet onions and buttery shrimp make a great marriage on the same plate.

My main course fell from the evenings off the menu selections… parpadelle pasta with lamb ragu. This dish was simple and flavorful and just what I expected. Solid, filling and just right.

We also dined on delightful beef carpaccio as well as their nearly famous gnocchi, both of which were well received.


In the day and age of “let’s get to the newest joint in town”, it’s easy to overlook those who have been punching the clock seemingly forever. If you haven’t been to Locanda lately, make a trip over. It’s wearing well and still delivering great bang for your buck… wonderfully prepared Italian fare with the feeling you’re dining with friends.


Locanda Veneta
Italian

8638 W 3rd St, Los Angeles 90048
At S Willaman Dr

Reservations at OpenTable.com

Café Gray... Taste with an Attitude

Delicious meets Pretentious at Time Warner Center


To Visit Andre's blog: Fork LA, CLICK HERE!

The weather can make us do crazy things.

It was a gray, snowy, cold Saturday… and all I could think of was a good, hot meal. But not in my kitchen. Nope. Somebody else’s.

Café Gray, a spot that has been on my “get to” list for months was the call. OpenTable showed an early 5:30 rezo, and I snagged it. Dinner and watching the snow fall over Central Park. Good stuff.

So off I went, on the #10 bus heading oh-so-slowly towards the TW Center in just plain nasty weather. A little shopping, a little walking… and a nice dinner for 2.

Here is the skinny.


I know the dress is dressy casual (or so they imply), but don’t be fooled. My nice, casual appearance at the restaurant was met with a snarl… as suits and dresses seemed to be the order of the day. Did I mention there were women in furs? Hmmmm. No PETA folks at this joint. Uptight.

The person who sat us was nice enough, and the “waiter” (hard to qualify here, as you are serviced confusingly by many) was uber-nice. The rest of the staff was almost unbearable.

But wanting the experience to be about the food and not the people, we focused on dinner, which before 6:30pm is offered in a “pre-theatre” prix fixe. This was fine, but I really wanted to see the full menu, and almost felt as if they were happy we’d be gone by the rush (which was hopefully coming later, since the restaurant was nearly empty). Whatever.

The good news is that there is excellent food here, and not at astronomical prices (as compared to the rest of the establishments here at the TW Center).

The three course menu for $62 was a good choice, and the portions are filling.

There is an unspoken push here by the waiters to get you to order the house favorites on your first visit… and after eating them, I can understand why. They are full-proof, and sure enough, here I am sitting here telling you just how good they are.

The first course I selected the Risotto, with wild mushroom fricassee. The presentation was nice… as a warm bowl of risotto is gently placed in front of you… accompanied by a silver bowl of mushrooms, swimming in a delicate cream, which is promptly spooned over the top of the risotto. It is every bit as good as it sounds, and if in fact I were a waiter, I too would be suggesting. Other options included a Crab Salad, a gnocchi dish and a Bibb salad… but after seeing a few these surface from the open kitchen… I think I made the right choice.

The main course I enjoyed is also considered a specialty of the house… the Braised Short Rib of Beef.

This short rib… braised for over 24 hours, is melt in your mouth incredible. Served over grits with a meaux mustard sauce, the dish is aromatic and delectable. This is rich stuff mind you, but the beef is so tender, you’ll have problems getting it onto your fork. This is one of New York’s better dishes.

When dessert rolls around, you are getting fairly full…. but when there are options like caramelized Key Lime Pie (very good, but not my first choice) you find room.

The selection here, by far, is the sampling of homemade ice cream and sorbets. The silver dish comes with some 7 servings, and is incredible. Homemade coconut, pistachio, vanillas, chocolates, caramels, raspberry… you name it. This is just the right portion and sweetness to accompany your espresso before your comfy cab ride home.

So, as you can tell… I like the food.

It’s the snobby floor managers, sommelier and reception folks I can do without.

If they are reading, let me lend you this advice. The true greatness of Café Gray is the fact that this menu and price point is an approachable option for those who want to step up from Bouchon Bakery but not flip for a Per Se. Quit wishing you had a job at a nicer restaurant and start making your patrons feel wanted. The setting alone is spectacular enough to sell the experience… the overwhelming sense of high-brow bullshit is out of place here and got tired in 10 minutes.

You can make up a mediocre meal with this type of service approach… but you can also kill a great meal with an overbearing sense of being. Back off. Perhaps Alain Ducasse will be hiring soon.


Photograph by Kenneth Chen.


Cafe Gray
10 Columbus Circle- At 60th St
New York, NY 10019

212 823-6338

Not Worth The Ticket

Grand Central Oyster Bar Sadly Disappoints




Let me first preface this blog by saying that no one wants to be blown away by a restaurant more than I. When a restaurant gets it right… the food, the service, everything… it makes me downright giddy.

I’m not that hard to impress.

The Oyster Bar in Grand Central just blew it.

I was excited about this visit, as a kid born and raised in South Louisiana, I know seafood. I know fish, I know crab, I know oysters. This was gonna be good.

But from the moment I hit the door, the evening started heading south.. and there was simply nothing I could do about it.

At a glance, the place reeks of nostalgia. First, how freaking cool is it to have a seafood joint in the train station, steps away from the tunnels and tracks? Only in New York.

I wandered in a few minutes before the rest of my party arrived and checked it out… a large dining room packed with hungry folks… a lunch counter straight from 1955 with a few scattered diners slurping down chowder, a cozy back room and bar packed with couples and an oyster bar with able onlookers enjoying their cold beer and pan roasts.

The excitement was building. One of a kind, I thought.

But when I hit the hostess stand, it ended. There I was greeted by a few pretentious “I wish I worked for Mario” employees that would send the evening south in a hurry. The attitude was horrific, and I paused and wrote it off to a long day, or something else… as I know this business. I have owned 2 restaurants myself, and have hired dozens of hosts and hostesses. They all have bad days.

But as hard as I tried, it didn’t matter. Someone should call and let them know that this isn’t Alain Ducasse, but a seafood place at the train station. They were simply rude.

When my buddies arrived and we were seated, the Big Cheese from the host stand wandered over to the table.

On this night, I was dressed in nice slacks, a crisp white long sleeve polo, a tie, and matching baseball cap (my calling card)…I listened intently.

“Sir, would you kindly remove your cap,” he asked.

“Am I offending someone?” I replied.

“It’s our policy,” he said.

“I’m the only person here wearing a tie. Are you sure I can’t keep it on?” I pleaded.
“You need to remove it,” he answered.

“You are aware we are in a train station,” I replied.

“We happen to be surrounded by a train station, yes,” he stated,

So, I removed my cap… which I don’t mind doing, when appropriate. But give me a break… this is a train station. There is a drunk at the counter on his 8th beer. Whatever.

About this time the confusion began. The table was approached by not one or two, but three different people asking what we may want to drink, or start with from he raw bar.

“Hi, are you our waiter?” I asked.

“Uh, we kinda all are,” he replied.

Hmmmm. I smell a mandatory employee meeting coming on.

The first dish to arrive we a pile of nearly inedible steamed clams. Gritty and smelling like they were pulled out of the water a month ago, the were a bomb at the table and enjoyed by no one… a real disappointment, since several diners had their hearts set on this dish.

Next was the chowder, a thick and creamy New England style bowl that was quite good. Not good enough to make the trip for, but certainly good enough to order when there.

We did order a tray of oysters, which arrived shortly after the chowder. These too were fine, but at 2 and 3 dollars apiece, may be the biggest rip-off in the city. The varieties are amazing… Whitecap, Penn Cove, Kumamoto, Eld Inlet, Willapa Bay… and the list goes on and on. But the server didn’t know enough about what makes them different… just the sizes. And where I come from, an oyster is an oyster. You want it fresh, cold, a bit salty, and firm. There really just isn’t any other kind.

And oh yea, in Louisiana, you can often get oysters for .25 at the bar.

I know we aren’t in Louisiana, but 3.50 an oyster? Shame shame.

Next was the main course, a New England lobster, steamed with the trimmings.

I wish I could boast on how the lobster saved the night, but the truth is any idiot can steam a lobster, so as you guessed, it was just fine. Certainly overpriced and undersized, but fine none the less.

So, heartbroken, I write this blog. From the exterior, I love this place. The look, the idea, all of it. It would be a place that I would bring out-of-towners. But with overpriced, uneven, mediocre food, I just can’t, knowing that I run zero risk of embarrassment somewhere else.


The Oyster Bar in Grand Central is known for it’s budget lunches and pan-roasts, which I admit are cooler than cool… and maybe that’s how this place was built to be enjoyed. But when you plop down a huge chunk of change for bad to average food, attitude and uneven service, well it leaves a bad taste in your mouth.

Kinda like the clams they served.




Grand Central Oyster Bar

Lower Concourse
AmEx, DC, Disc, MC, Visa

Hours
Mon-Fri: 11:30am-9:30pm
Sat: 12pm-9:30pm

Serves
Lunch, Dinner


Photos by Noah Kalina

One Damn Fine Burger

This Juicy Burger Would Make Whimpy Proud



Greetings Foodies!

Your able epicurean is away this week on a west coast food tour (yes, Chez Panisse and French Laundry reviews to come)… but I wanted to pass along this review to tide you over!

Is NYC’s tastiest burger in the armpit of midtown?

It just may be.

Last week, I made my first visit to Burgers and Cupcakes, the silly idea of a restaurant on 9th Avenue, between 35th and 36th.


It was crowded at lunch, but I managed to find a table and grab a menu. The seating is simple… find a table, tell the lady what you want,… and she brings it.

The place is smallish as you might expect… and seating is somewhat cramped. Minor details when hunting for a good burger.

The menu is simple and straightforward. Pick a burger…. beef, turkey, chicken, vegetable, mushroom, salmon, tuna, lamb, venison or ostrich (by the way, if you order anything other than beef or turkey, you may be in the wrong restaurant). Choices abound.

The burgers plain are 7.95…. not cheap. Toppings like every cheese under the sun, or grilled onions, mushrooms, peppers, chili… you get the picture… are a buck extra. So, load it up, and it’s gonna run you 10, 11 bucks. This is New York, remember?

The good news?

They are worth it. Size wise, this isn’t a huge burger… think medium, old fashion soda fountain size. Not a Fuddruckers burger, but not tiny either. The meat patty itself is thick, but sits on a fairly normal size bun, not unlike the kind you might pick up at the grocery for a burger you would make at home.

The buns themselves are not toasted or grilled, because they are super fresh and soft.

The burgers and moist and juicy… grilled to order on a flat griddle. Coupled with fresh toppings, a soft bun and a layer of grease on the bottom (this is the real flavor is it not?) you get one damn fine hamburger.

Fries here make me happy, as they are taken seriously. The fresh cut potatoes are twice fried (once an hour ago, and again when you order them) making them crispy delicious. They do offer chop meat chili cheese fries, but as I am already asking for a heart attack of major proportions, so I thought I’d prolong my triple bypass another week or so.

The cupcakes are good, but nothing to write home about. They are nearly 2-bite cupcakes, making them mini-cupcakes in my book. Tasty, but not as nearly impressive as the burgers. Basic flavors include vanilla and devils food… but move past these for the chocolate peanut butter marshmallow, chocolate raspberry truffle or lemon meringue.

Final take?

Worth the trip for a nostalgic, yummy burger. If you are in the neighborhood, certainly worth the effort. It’s a familiar taste… one that either your grandmother or local drugstore may have first introduced you to.

Lucky for us, grandma has a joint on 9th Ave.




Burgers and Cupcakes
458th 9 Ave
NY, NY 10018
(212) 643-1200

Kellari Taverna: Superb Greek in Midtown

This Greek Is Really All That



If you are like me, several nights a week you stare at a stack of menus, or go online to figure out what’s for dinner.

Exhausting.

Italian? Chinese? Thai? Sushi? What the hell.

For some reason, I often forget Greek food, or even Lebanese…. two of my favorites.

This leads me to this week’s review of Kellari… the place I almost forgot about.

My recent visit was on Valentine’s Day, a simply wonderful day to visit. Sure, the restaurant had a special menu for the special day, but also offered their regular daily menu for those of us who just want to eat the good stuff, without the obligatory “prix fixe” cuisine. The hand delivered roses were a nice touch by the management, too.













For me, Greek and Lebanese/Mediterranean food is all about the mezes. I usually load up on a table full of these treasures, and leave the entrees to others. Really. By the time I am finished nibbling on 8 small plates of food, I’m about done.

The good news here is that the meze are out of this world.

What can I recommend?

Before anything hits the table, you are presented with a tray of homemade hummus spread (terrific), pickles and cucumbers. Just right with that pre-wine cocktail you just ordered.

The rest?

The tzatziki, their version of the well know garlic/cucumber/yogurt dip… is outstanding. Creamy, cold and rich…. it is nearly a meal in itself, and is accompanied by a basket of fresh-out-of-the-oven pita bread. Crazy good.

The fava beans in roasted tomato reminded me of the same dish I enjoyed in Crete only a few years ago. Tangy tomato with just the right herb infusion, with perfectly cooked fava beans (with bite and no mush).

The house smoked feta with honey was also terrific, as were the dolma (vine leaves filled with lamb, rice and raisins)… but the show stealer was the katsikisio…. in Greek, that’s warm goat cheese baked with apricots and almonds. This dish convinced us that these guys really know their stuff.

The mistake of the night was ordering dinner. Already full at that point, our curiosity got the best of us, and the whole fish was begging to be roasted.

So, we ordered their house specialty… any whole fish (many to choose from), that are scaled and filleted to order, and grilled over charcoal.


Was the fish good? Yes. But I need to add an asterisk to this remark, as I had a slight problem with the fish.

Being from Louisiana can sometimes be a curse when it comes to seafood, as I was spoiled from a young age. This means that any… and I mean ANY piece of fish I eat, just can’t smell or taste like, well, fish.

So when the fresh roasted Red Snapper (not Gulf but imported) came to the table, I had a feeling it might have a slightly stronger fish taste that I prefer, and I was right. It did.

For most, this is a taste they know and don’t mind. The fish was expertly prepared and presented, and by the looks of others around us, enjoyed by all.

I passed.

Desserts looked astounding, but honestly I was still full from the meze… but I did indulge in a cup of Greek coffee… which I highly recommend. Sure, it’s sludge, but the stuff tastes great, and reminds me of Istanbul. Go for it.

So the verdict?

Aside from my fish experience, the place is absolutely wonderful. It’s a sleek, modern and tasteful room, with attentive staff and a generally good vibe. The food is excellent, and fairly priced. I’m still trying to figure out how I scored at table at 7pm here on Valentine’s Day.

My remedy for strong fish will be ordering on of the many tempting meat dishes on my next visit. This food is just too good to let one fish get in the way.



Kellari Taverna
Greek

19 W 44th St, New York 10036
Btwn 5th & 6th Ave

Ted's Montana Grill: Pretender?

Get Ready. There is Bison in Midtown.


Ted Turner has bison. And a ranch. And CNN.

So, last week when I visited Ted’s Montana Grill in Midtown, I expected the works. Antlers, stuffed heads, Indian-inspired rugs, big screen TV’s beaming Wolf Blitzer, you name it.

The place was, well, not what I expected.

So what did I find?

Well, at first glance the wood-clad room looked about like any other Bennigans-like establishment, smallish and without most of the kitsch, except for the singular, gratuitous bison head. The place was simple, and exuded nearly zero personality… which is just fine if you are making your statement in the kitchen (I hope this is the plan).

My visit to Ted’s was a hamburger mission, and I wasn’t going to be denied. It had been weeks since I had a good hamburger, and I had heard that Ted’s had a good thing happening with the bison burger…. so here I was.

First, getting a table at lunch is a problem. The prices are in that “it’s just a hair to expensive but what the hell” range, that spells trouble when it’s 10 degrees outside. That kind of weather is certainly worth another $5-$8 dollars of consideration. So, we wait.


Our midweek noon encounter was a packed one, with seemingly nobody in charge. We did receive the vibrating remote (thank you Olive Garden), but were later greeted in the bar by a wait person who told us to ditch it, as she would find us a table. Hmmm, I smell an employee meeting coming on.

After she sat us in a strangely covert way, we were greeted by a slightly insane server who quickly made sure we had enough beer to get through the wait of actually ordering and eating. Job well done.

Let’s hop to the food.

First, the bison. If you like good, meaty tasting burgers, you will like bison. It’s not a gamey taste (which I can’t tolerate), it’s a big, meaty one. My burger, cooked medium well (order on notch higher than usual says the waiter guy) was moist in the middle, and crunchy-charred on the outside. Yum.

The bun (nearly as important) was of the Kaiser roll variety, and also held its own. It came with a little grease on the bottom, but hey, who’s complaining. That’s flavor in the burger world.

The fries (extra $$) were cold and average, a disappointment when you consider that these guys try to take hamburgers seriously.


The rest of the menu features chicken grilled sandwiches, apps (we had an OK stack of onion rings) and steaks of the bison and regular beef variety. Daily specials look good, as did the soup of the day which we tasted… a yankee-styled gumbo that was good and hot, but not very authentic. A better bowl can be had at Cosi (no, really, Cosi).

Desserts fair much better, and the Apple Crisp looked downright yummy.

So the verdict?

It’s just OK, which can be the kiss of death in this city, where mediocrity can mean papering up the windows. But with the need of burger joints in Midtown, Ted’s will likely survive. I enjoyed my burger, and it hit the spot… just not the memorable one. I may be back from time to time, but I won’t be opting for the vibrating remote… I’ll be moving down the street where the wait isn’t quite as long.

Time to cab over to Hell's Kitchen for chicken and waffles.




Ted's Montana Grill
American (Traditional), Steakhouses, Wild Game

110 W 51st St, New York 10020
Btwn 6th & 7th Ave

Phone: 212-245-5220

In Case You Missed It: February 07

News and Notes You Need To Know



First, Happy Valentines Day!

If you thought the only folks happy about the holiday of love were the blokes at Hallmark, think again. Just about every reputable restaurant in NYC is taking reservations up the wazoo... wishing every month had a Feb. 14th!

That said, here is the latest from the plate, just in time to pick up the phone and find you'll be eating at 5:oopm, or 11:30pm.


Say It Ain't So
Word on the street is that Cité, my favorite wine dinner spot in NYC, and possibly one of the best deals on earth, is closing. Something about a lease, blah blah blah. This means, if you like to drink, I mean, really drink.... you'll need to get over there in the coming weeks and indulge.

I Like The View
Is there anything more romantic than watching ice skaters glide across the Rockefeller Plaza ice? Sure, but I gotta tell you, tables underground on the glass at The Sea Grill ain't bad. Valentine's Day provides a Prix Fixe dinner for $88. that includes Sevruga Caviar and a Lobster Risotto, as well as Veal Cheeks for my land lubbing friends. You could do worse.....

Surf and Turf for $75 Bones?
Sure. Nick and Stef's has the deal on the 14th, which also include raw oysters (I think this is good for the date) and a frozen Raspberry cake for dessert. Worth consideration.

Opt Out and Knock Her Socks Off
Why fight the crowds when you can order in? Fresh Direct will show up at the house with a sweetheart of a meal that includes a Double Cut Filet Mignon with twin Lobster Tails or a Gruyére Fondue, killer appetizer and Molten Chocolate Cake for between $69 and $99 bucks. When you consider the cab, flowers, etc... this and a netflix evening could lead to some real romance....

Because You Need It
If you are a coffee freak like me, you need the Capresso Team Plus S coffee maker. The machine, that grinds fresh beans and brews at the optimal temp (which nearly no other coffee maker does) delivers the hottest, best tasting cup of coffee on the home market. For those who own this machine like I do, time to upgrade to the Capresso Coffee Team Therm! Basically the same machine, with a thermal carafe to keep your joe in the 180 degree range for several hours. At $299., the machine is a steal, as the burr grinder in the baby is worth that price alone....

Forget The Diet and Eat King Cake
Since I was a kid, I've been eating King Cakes, and one of my favorites is now on the web... direct from New Orleans. Order the Pecan Praline filled with Cream Cheese and celebrate Mardi Gras with us coonasses.

It's Mardi Gras.... Eat Like You Mean It
I rarely pimp my cajun brothers and their food, but if you haven't had the Jalapeno Sausage Bread and Stuffed Chickens from Bourque's, you haven't lived. Click here, call Shannon and tell them that Andre at ForkNewYork sent ya. The ship it all, and the may be the best sausage makers in Louisiana. Really.


Quick Bites......
How amazing are the Garden of Eden stores in NYC?... The Chelsea store blew me away over the weekend, and sells the best tortilla chips I have ever eaten (in the brown paper bag with the window)..... Chelsea Papaya dogs are just as good as Gray's and a hair cheaper.... "Lupa" has expanded their hours, and are now open ALL DAY... so, forget the lines and go have a late late lunch without the crowds....why haven't I been throwing chicken wings in my convection oven my whole life?... the owners of ForkNewYork favorite "Bin 71" have opened a new joint "Barcibo Enoteca", a few blocks away on Broadway on the Upper West... similar menu, but a large, expanded Italian wine list awaits.... splurge on the Schaller and Weber Black Forest Bacon on your next Fresh Direct order, you won't be sorry.... does anyone do the Atkins Diet anymore?.... I understand the burgers at Ted's Montana Grill are tasty, and plan to see for myself next week.... did Whole Foods really stop selling lobsters because of cruelty?... has anyone visited their pork department?..... the "Dirty" Brand potato chips sold all over NYC are actually "Zapps" potato chips, made in Gramercy, Louisiana and marketed under the "Dirty" chip name.... watch for a future Tuesday profile of mine on "Midtown Lunch", one of NYC's better food blogs..... speaking of blogs, this blog was recently linked on Eater.com, and has been added to BlogSoop.com as well as Digesty and others..... when is the last time you had a bowl of Oh's! Cereal?....

The Bar Room at The Modern: Art in Motion

Great Food In A Great Setting.... Is There More?


There is something amazingly clever about eating at a museum.

For years, I have loved eating at museums… in Europe (where the food is just downright great) and in the US (where the food can sway between terrific and a sandwich shelf at 7-11).

Eating at European museums usually means that not only will the food be artful, tasteful and fun… but so will your surroundings. Like at the Café at the Louvre in Paris, or the Picasso Museum… or perhaps the wonderful café at the Van Gogh Museum in Amsterdam. Of course half the fun is looking at the design of the plates, forks and glasses… but somehow these places also deliver delicious foodstuffs at reasonable prices.

MOMA in New York is no different, and has a charming café to have a salad or sandwich and a glass of white wine… but more tempting is The Modern, their fine dining destination on the ground floor.

Carved into two dining areas, The Modern brings museum dining to a new level. Chef Danny Meyer has made sure the food is terrific, and the setting does the rest.

My visit was on a Sunday evening, and my guest and I dined at a table in The Bar Room… the larger of the two dining rooms, as well as the more affordable.

The menu in The Bar Room is divided into 3 sections, the first two being starter plates (think tapas size) and the third being the entrée page (with the portions being more half entrée size).

If you are a big eater who lives for Chinese buffets and 2 pound Stouffer’s Lasagna, this may not be the spot for you.

Being a large guy myself and decent eater, I found the portions to be fine, and the flavors to be remarkable.

Off of the first page of our menu, my guest ordered a wonderful salad with triple cream goat cheese… and I had the grilled shrimp with green cabbage and gruyere.

Well I have to tell you, both dishes were spectacular. The salad was delicate and flavorful, but the shrimp dish was the standout. The shrimp were smoky and grilled perfectly, and the cabbage salad was superb. We both thought that if this was the level of taste we had arrived for the evening, this was going to be one heck of a night.

Unfortunately, the next course of homemade country sausage (for her) and wild mushroom soup with chorizo ravioli (for me) brought us back down to earth.


While the sausage was good, it was nothing spectacular, and honestly not as good as the homemade variety I might nab of the Halo Berlin Cart in midtown. The soup was a light, broth-like puree that was big on taste and very good… but was paired with a fried, dry chorizo stuffed ravioli… a complete and total mystery. Even on it’s own, the chorizo bites were not very good, and this is coming from a guy who eats sausage like I am expecting to have a heart attack any day.

The savior of the meal was the third course, which brought us back above the bar. The wild, horseradish-crusted salmon was incredible… resting in a foam of sweet Riesling. My sirloin au poive came with fluffy pan-fried spaetzle, tossed in a brown butter cream. Wow.

The wines are expensive and are available by the glass, and cocktails creative and well mixed. Deserts looked terrific with a nice selection including beignets, sorbets and cheesecakes… but alas, there was no room at the inn.

So final thoughts?

I like it. Lunch may present a smaller bill, but truth be told, this is fairly good value when you qualify this setting, at the world-renown MOMA. If you are looking for a wonderful meal at less-than-The Modern prices, The Bar Room is for you.

Just come early for a glimpse at a few Picasso’s. It makes for an exquisite evening.


The Bar Room at The Modern
The Museum of Modern Art (MoMA)
French, American

9 W 53rd St, New York 10019
Btwn 5th & 6th Ave




Photo proudly swiped from Robert Presutti for The New York Times.

Bouley: The Magic Is Alive and Well

From the moment you walk in, wow.



I often preach that a terrific dinner in NYC is more than food.... it's an experience.

With that thought, I give you Bouley.

Bouley, the gift from Chef David Bouley, is just that.... an experience. From the moment you walk through the apple-lined foyer into the "Hobbit" inspired dining room, he's got you. Your senses are now on overload, and your taste buds are anticipating something special. David Bouley then delivers.

Epicureans have a love-hate relationship with David Bouley. While most agree that the food is superb, they look for other cracks in the armor. Service, price, wine, etc..... take your pick. But with an experience like mine, I can't help but think that the critics are really missing the point of this restaurant... a complete experience that serves as a journey to someplace else. A place where the delicate nuance of an herb or palate cleansing sorbet is delivered as a violin would deliver a melody within a symphonic performance. Perfection.

First, the environment.

It's everything you may expect in a restaurant of this caliber... but better. Sure, there are crisp, white tablecloths... but the rooms are warm. Once through the door, the right dining room is cream and white... a brighter contrast to the left dining room. This room, full of sloping arches... is colored in rich crimson, making for an appetizing backdrop. It's charming, magical and romantic... all at the same time.

Even though my large party agreed on a universal tasting menu, make no mistake... any experience here will include special touches from the kitchen. Canapés, sorbets and amazing breads, carved tableside.

The front of the house certainly hold their own. Attentive service. Expert wine advice. Full water glasses. They know the drill.

As the surroundings command attention, the food at Bouley is truly the star. A fusion of French-American cooking, there is simply no heavy-handed anything at Bouley. Delicate flavors are the rule here, and Chef Bouley raises the bar almost laughingly in this area. His amazing tuna appetizer with shaved fennel is perfectly balanced, his Maine lobster with mango, artichoke and Serrano ham dressed with a tamarind dressing... adorned with fresh coconut.

This is just plain fun.

Entrees run the traditional range from fish, to fowl, to lamb and venison. But these selections are far from the norm. Where can you taste Black Sea Bass in a Sea Scallop crust? Or a lamb filet baked in a Black Truffle crust? Well, at Bouley.

There are cheeses to reset the courses if needed, but special effort should be made regarding dessert. As I am not one who usually makes it to dessert, I implore you... make the effort. The Vanilla Rice Pudding is remarkable, as is the Chocolate Banana Tart... but it's the Valrhona Chocolate Soufflé that steals the show.

Note: If you are thinking of proposing to your girlfriend, order one of these and pop the question. Done deal.

My final take?

Bouley is simply on of the best restaurants in NYC. In a land of sterile, often bland dining spots with robotic service, Bouley does something remarkable. He opens the door, welcomes with a smile, and quietly knocks your socks off.

That's worth the price of admission in my book.



Bouley
French, Wild Game

120 W Broadway, New York 10013
Btwn Duane & Reade St

Daniello's: Best Pizza on the Upper West?

It's true... this pie is the bomb.



The Upper West Side isn't known for pizza.

There are exceptions mind you, but generally speaking.... yuch.

The one exception I feel compelled to write about is not only the best pizza on the Upper West, but one of the best pies in NYC... the margarita pizza at Daniello's.

Why is this pie tops?

First, a hand tossed, uber-thin sweet crust. As anyone who knows pizza and they'll tell you the most important part of the perfect pizza is the crust. The standard pie here is a bit thicker, so don't waste your time. You want the margarita.

Next,the sauce.

Fresh, homemade, tangy. This sauce wakes up the pizza... and tastes authentic.

And last... the cheese. These pies come equiped with homemade mozzerella, sliced in thin patches.

I love the plain margarita, but variety abounds at Daniello's.

Choose from the seafood, fresh pepper and sausage, mexican, black olive, garlic and anchovy, grilled chicken, parisienne... well, you get the picture.

The rest of the food here is mediocre at best, and they know it. But it's always been about the pizza here, so nobody is losing any sleep.

Delivery is fast on the Upper West, and really the only way I recommend you enjoy Daniello's, as the space is a dump. But, hey... it's all about the pizza.

Daniello's
Pizza-Cafe-Restaurant
Pizza, Italian

70 W 95th St, New York 10025
At Columbus Ave

Phone: 212-961-0340
Fax: 212-961-0638

Wu Liang Ye: The Real Deal

From Spicy Noodles to Seared Pork Buns, It Doesn't Get Much Better




I'm not sure, but I'd like to take a stab at how many Chinese restaurants there may be in Manhattan.....

a jillion.

Well, maybe not a jillion, but certainly more than I can imagine, and then some.... and way too many to ever try and sample.

That said, I've found a Chinese restaurant that is so completely satisfying, I'm perfectly OK not trying most of the others.

For some foodies in NYC, my post about Midtown's Wu Liang Ye may be old news. But when you find food this good, well, you have to share the news.

About a year ago, a colleague of mine told me about Wu Liang Ye, since we worked only 3 blocks away in Rockefeller Plaza. She told me of their amazing dishes, noodles and sauces... and sure enough, soon I was ordering take out from Wu and having it delivered to my office... so I could nibble and slurp while working away at my desk during lunch. I have always loved the food and had decided that it was surely the best take out in Midtown.

But last week, I finally had the opportunity to go to Wu Liang Ye, which changed my observation of this restaurant forever.


First, we sneaked into this Szechwan gem on 48th street just under the wire on a Thursday night (when the kitchen is due to close at 9:30pm). Entering the 2nd floor dining room with a friend, we noticed a jam-packed room of diners, many who were just ordering or getting their goodies. The manager sat us right away and we began to pour over the menu.

The best sign (for me anyway) about the authenticity of any restaurant is who is eating there. When we entered, we both noticed one small thing... we were to only 2 non-Chinese diners in the place. Really. There were groups, families, workers.... it was terrific. This is gonna be some good.

The menu at Wu Liang Ye is frustrating, only because you can't order everything that looks good. Just too much food. The table next to us had 6 people sitting around a round table with a lazy susan in the middle.... obviously professionals at this game. They had ordered 4 or 5 dishes that looked so good, we might have joined them for dinner if asked. For 2 people, you have a more limited experience, unless you are ready to take home a grocery bag of left-overs (which is worth considering I might add).

Let's talk food.

The chef at Wu is a master of many dishes, but there are a few that just can't be missed.

First, the Pork Dumplings in Chili Sauce are remarkable. Tender, fragile dumplings swimming in a dark red chili oil are fresh and spicy, a perfect balance that won't set your mouth on fire.

Next, are noodles.

Now, all the noodles dishes here are spectacular, but there are two that I think do a great job of getting your palate in that happy place.

The first are the Chilled Noodles with spicy Sesame Vinaigrette... a refreshing dish that comes in a small bowl and can be easily shared. But not to be missed are the warm Dan Dan Noodles... served in a similar bowl, topped with ground pork and spinach on top, and a small amount of chili oil on the bottom. Once you mix them together and sample, a huge smile should spring across your face. This is heaven.

Soups are also terrific here, but with killer dishes waiting, I usually opt out, as I just need the room.


So what to order?

For me, I like mixing a seafood dish and a meat dish (either beef, chicken or pork) and on this night, it was an easy decision.

For the seafood dish, we'd order the Fried Salt and Pepper Prawns. I didn't see them on the menu, but had been told about them, so if you don't see them don't worry... go right on ahead and order them.

These are giant shrimp.... butterflied with the shells on, lightly dusted in flour and salt and pepper and flash fried. What you wind up with is a shrimp so perfect, you literally eat the breading right off, suck on the shells, before your peel and eat the shrimp itself. It reminds me a great deal of the Salt and Pepper Dungeness Crab at R and G Lounge in San Francisco, a dish I equate to a religious experience. This is good stuff.

On the meat side I could have gone one of 100 directions, but decided to keep it simple and ordered the shredded pork with garlic sauce. Delicious.

There are other things you should know about Wu Liang Ye.

The prices are great, and worth every penny. They could charge more, and I wouldn't care.

You can eat exotic... frogs, tongue, jelly fish, tripe, etc..... so if this is your bag, knock yourself out.

The fried rice is the freshed and best prepared in New York.

The tea-smoked duck with ginger is becoming legendary. Order it for your date and watch her head spin.

So I am guessing by now you are figuring our just how much I love this place. Sure, Chinatown has great food (New Green Bo, etc) but why march down there when Wu Liang Ye has a few of these north of Midtown?

When it comes to Chinese food, I look for fresh, well prepared, robust dishes. For my money, Wu Liang Ye is one of the best places in Manhattan to get just that... and for me, that's good enough.

Wu Liang Ye
Authentic Chinese Cuisine
Chinese

36 W 48th St, New York 10036
Btwn 5th & 6th Ave

Phone: 212-398-2308
Fax: 646-366-1505

Photo Credit: NYCnosh.com

Del Posto: Decadence With A Price

But With Mario... It's Still All About the Pasta





Happy New Year.

It took quite a while (months) for me to get to Del Posto… a restaurant opening I have been eagerly anticipating. Their pre-opening drama is now famous in the restaurant world, but little did I care if the fare was to live up to its promise.

My first visit happened on a special night… New Year’s Eve. Del Posto was offering a special white truffle tasting menu that evening, but I opted for the ala carte experience, as I wanted to taste the flavors that had been flowing out of the kitchen since opening.

Before I get started, let me make something clear.

This place ain’t cheap.

I’m cool with that, and I get fine dining… and sure, I dropped about $200 on a simple dinner for 2. But please note…. I could have easily dropped $400-600 on this night. So my message? Come to Del Posto with room on your Visa card… you’re gonna need it.

Upon entering the restaurant, one thing is clear. They spent an unreal amount of money on this build out. It is spectacular. A large room that doesn’t get too noisy. A refined elegance, without being too stuffy. A perfect bar. Large, looming balconies with tables of happy parties. And the most amazing thing?.... tables with a major amount of elbow room. To eavesdrop here, you’ll need skills.

Arriving a few minutes early, we sat at the bar and ordered cocktails. Ours were perfectly prepared in a beautiful manner, but it’s what the woman next to us ordered that blew us away…. A simple amaretto sour. As we watched the bartender make this drink, complete with egg whites and 5 different ingredients, we were in awe. He mixed it like I have never seen a drink mixed, them drizzled sour cherry juice through the middle. The woman drank a sip and nearly passed out. “This is the best drink I have ever tasted,” she exclaimed. I believed every word of it.

At the table, the kitchen began by sending out the obligatory freebies that were welcomed with hungry stomachs. Tiny morsels of heaven… polenta, hams… you get the picture.

The menu is tough, as you veer to many options…. Antipastas that include roasted autumn vegetables, scallops with carpaccio, amazing salads and house-cured salami. Risotto with porcini or lobster. Pastas that included pumpkin stuffed ravioli (folded) and orecchiette with lamb, peas and chanterelles.

All that before you see the main courses… fish, turkey, pork, wild game… well, you get the picture. If all of this is too much, you can always opt for the Del Posto tasting menu ($120) or the white truffle tasting menu ($295)…. But both looked to be an enormous amount of food… and we preferred to enjoy the night without feeling like we needed to rush home and go to sleep.

Our selections seemed perfect on that romantic evening. A beef carpaccio that may have been the best I’ve ever tasted and a plate of salami to get started. We passed on the salads and moved straight to the pasta tasting, a selection on 3 pastas for our table.

Say what you will about the food at Del Posto, but in my humble opinion, the pasta is the star here. The pumpkin stuffed ravioli, folded in delicate sheets of handmade pasta, and topped with brown butter and truffles was nearly an out of body experience. Next, the rabbit stuffed pasta with golden butter and leeks was damn near as good as the pumpkin. And last, we enjoyed a garganelli pasta with a simple Bolognese that seemed to round out all three tastes perfectly. The portions for this tasting are small, but at $27 a person, a good buy as you get to sample several dishes.

Starting to feel full, we split an entrée, the pork loin with grilled celery and artichoke. It was perfect for the two of us, and was wonderfully prepared.

Now feeling full, we were faced with the dilemma of a dessert menu that looked to good to be true. Baked meringues, chocolate-hazelnut mousse, almond cakes… all amazing. What we didn’t know was order or not, a cart of freshly made goodies would arrive at our table, and we would receive a plate full of sweets courtesy of the kitchen. The fennel and white chocolate bites on this plate were out of this world.

So, how do I sum this up?

It’s wonderful, expensive, decadent, interesting, sometimes annoying but delicious.

Unless you get really excited setting your money on fire, take this advice.

Enjoy Del Posto as you would Babbo or Lupa. Search for small bites. Craft special ala carte meals.

If you give in to the overwhelming urge to overindulge, you will leave upset and likely disappointed. It can be spectacular in its ability to deliver an over the top experience… but if you are gonna drop that kind of cash, I’ll like to recommend you make a reservation at Per Se.

Oh yea…get the pumpkin ravioli.

Christmas Breakfast.... at HOME!

Spend Time With Your Family and Cook Ahead!


I've spent the year talking about where to go eat... so I thought I would use this blog to tell you to stay home and cook.

Merry Christmas.

A Christmas tradition at my house for as long as I can remember, is a Christmas morning brunch for all to enjoy, while those who decided to sleep in finally dragged themselves out of bed.

The main dish is prepared ahead and simply baked off, and the grits would go together in 10 minutes. When it was all hot, it could stay on the counter for hours next to a pot of hot coffee and cold orange juice. It just wouldn't be Christmas without it.

Unfortunatly, only 3 people on this earth have the recipe I am speaking of, so I scoured the trades for another that I though would be as good, and found the recipes below from author Tracey Koch. They are listed below... and look delish.

Enjoy a wonderful holiday... I'll see you right here in 2007.

André



Cinnamon Streusel Breakfast Bread Pudding with Warm Maple Syrup

Serves 6.

1 stick butter, melted
1 loaf French bread (cut into 1 1/2-inch slices)
4 large eggs
1 cup granulatedsugar
1/4 tsp. salt
3 cups whole or low-fat milk
2 tbls. vanilla
3/4 cup packed light brown sugar
1/4 cup chopped pecans, optional
2 tbls. ground cinnamon
Warm Butter Maple Syrup (recipe follows)


Warm Butter Maple Syrup
4 tbls. butter
1 cup maple syrup

1. Place the butter in a microwave-safe dish and heat on high for 30 to 40 seconds or until melted.
2. Add the maple syrup to the melted butter and heat another 20 to 30 seconds or until the mixture is heated through.


1. Brush the bottom and sides of a 9x13-inch baking pan with 2 tablespoons of the melted butter.
2. In a large mixing bowl, whisk the eggs until frothy.
3. Slowly add in the granulated sugar, salt, milk and vanilla and continue to whisk until all is incorporated.
4. In a smaller mixing bowl, combine brown sugar, pecans and cinnamon.
5. Arrange half of the French bread slices in the bottom of the prepared baking dish. (The bread should fit very close together, touching, but not overlapping.) Then brush the bread with 3 more tablespoons of melted butter.
6. Slowly pour half of the egg mixture evenly over the bread, making sure to coat each piece. Then sprinkle half of the cinnamon-sugar mixture over the top.
7. Repeat the steps ending with the streusel topping. Allow bread pudding to sit at least 2 hours or overnight, covered, in the refrigerator.
8. To bake, preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Remove the bread pudding from the refrigerator and allow it to come to room temperature.
9. Bake uncovered 45 to 50 minutes or until a knife inserted into the middle comes out clean and bread pudding is puffed and browned. Serve warm with Warm Butter Maple Syrup.
Kitchen helpers: Kids will be eager to help in buttering the bread slices and the pan, whisking the egg mixture and combining the streusel topping.


Sausage and Cheese Baked Grits

Serves 6.

1 lb. bulk breakfast sausage
4 cups water
1 cup grits
1/4 tsp. salt
1 tbl. butter
1/4 cup milk
3 ozs. cream cheese
2 cups shredded Cheddar cheese

1. In a large skillet, sauté the bulk sausage until browned well. Drain and set aside.
2. Bring water to a rolling boil and add salt.
3. Stir in grits and allow them to come back to a boil.
4. Reduce heat to medium low and continue to simmer until all of the water is gone, stirring occasionally to prevent sticking.
5. Remove from heat and add in the butter, milk, cream cheese and 1 cup of the Cheddar cheese. Mix until all of the cheese is melted.
6. Spray a 9x13-inch baking dish with nonstick cooking spray.
7. Fold the sausage into the cheese grits mixture and pour into the prepared baking dish. Top with the remaining cheese and cover. Place casserole into the refrigerator until ready to bake. (This dish can be made one day in advance.)
8. To bake, preheat the oven to 375 degrees and bake, covered, for 20 minutes. Remove cover and continue to bake 5 to 10 minutes or until cheese is melted and bubbly.

Kitchen helpers: Kids will be able to help in grating cheese, measuring the ingredients and mixing everything together.

Give New York For Christmas

It's Never Too Late To Send A Little NYC Cheer



Christmas is upon us. The tree at Rockefeller Plaza is glowing, skaters are skating and shoppers are frantic. Chestnuts are roasting on streetside carts… and folks like you and I are working to get that final gift or two off of our list.

Each year I make it a point to try and use local fare in my gift giving. When I was in Chicago, it was Garrett’s Popcorn. In Los Angeles, it was Dupar’s Pies. In Baton Rouge, it was boudin balls from Tony’s.

Now that I fancy myself a New Yorker, I have been researching my gift-giving options. In a city that offers so many amazing culinary treats, I thought I’d share with you some of my favorites… just in time for Christmas! If you need that one last special gift, click on the websites below. If not, keep this list handy next time you need that special something that says, “I live in New York, and you don’t”.

Merry Christmas everyone.



The Gift of Crazy-Good Chocolate
Jacques Torres Chocolate

As much as I love Lindt, Godiva, M & M’s… Jaques Torres just does it for me. His hot chocolate is the most decadent stuff I have ever tasted, but when I can’t get it I opt for his chocolate covered cherrios. Two (2) NYC locations including a post in Dumbo. www.mrchocolate.com

I Need My Bagels
H & H Bagels
Know a special someone who once lived in the Village, but now lives in Iowa? How about sending them a bag of warm, crusty bagels? As popular as H & H is locally, they claim to ship thousands of bagels across the country daily. I’ll have mine with some schmear. www.hhbagels.com

Send It All
Zabars
It may be one of the best kitchen/foodshops in the world, and it seems I hit them every year when I get stuck on what the hell to get someone.
The champion of gifts is the “Zabars is New York” box, which includes… ready?.... Zabar's Nova, kosher salami, pastrami, Zabar's deli mustard, Jewish rye bread, plain and scallion cream cheese, Zabar's chocolate babka, Lazzaroni Amaretti di Saronno cookies, a Lindt raspberry-filled chocolate bar, DiCamillo biscotti, Pernigotti moon and star Italian chocolates, Zabar's cinnamon rugelach, Betsy's Place chocolate chip cookies, New York cheddar cheese biscuits, assorted fresh-baked New York bagels, Le Trouvillais sables fruit cookies, a Zabar's coffee mug and a pound of Zabar's Blend ground coffee. You’ll be a stud. www.zabars.com

Send A Weiner
Schaller & Weber
Few places on earth warm my heart like Schaller & Weber, and I’ll tell you why. Homemade black forest hams, snap skin hot dogs, amazing salami, perfect brats and maybe the best selection of German mustard in NYC. A visit to this Upper East Side landmark is a joy, but when I can’t get there, I order online. www.schallerweber.com

Now Thatsa Pie!
Little Pie Company

When people think of NY pies, the usually think pizza, and not apple. But at this gem of a spot, real New Yorker know that the best pies in the city spring from these ovens. All of their pies are simply delicious… but make no mistake, the Sour Cream Apple Walnut is truly one of the best pies you’ll ever taste. www.littlepiecompany.com

What A Friend We Have In Cheeses
Murray’s Cheese
There was a time when ordering cheese mail order meant pecan logs and smoked gouda.
Thanks to establishments like Murray’s, New York’s most famous cheese purveyors, you can order nearly anything under the sun, and all of the goodies that go with. www.murrayscheese.com

Spread Love
Sarabeth’s
If you haven’t been to Sarabeth’s Central Park South restaurant, you’ve missed something special… warm breads with the city’s best jam.
Her signature Cloudberry is now an Aquavit favorite, but I still opt for her Peach-Apricot and Cherry-Plum, which are as good as they sound. Oh yea, her Budapest Bundt Cake is also fab.www.sarabeths.com

Moby Drinks Tea
Teany
I’m not sure what I like better… having tea at Teany in the East Village, or walking around the neighborhood when I am finished. Even though I fancy myself a coffee guy, the Earl Grey Crème is fantastic stuff, and you can now ship it to your favorite ex-New Yorker, and then brag about having lunch at Inoteca next door. www.teany.com

Spotlight on L.A. : Mario Travels West!

"Mozza" Collaboration Produces LA's Best Pizza, Period.


It was just a matter of time the look, feel and taste of a trendy NYC restaurant landed in Los Angeles… and low and behold, it’s arrived.

Sure, Nancy Silverton is well known for her stellar Campanile, but why did it take this long for partners Mario Batali and Joseph Bastianich to make their way west?

Whatever the reason, it has been worth the wait.


Mozza is truly a slice of heaven… and believe it or not, Nancy and Mario have reinvented the pizza.

Walking into Mozza, I immediately likened the room to something you might discover in the Grenwich Village area of New York. The lights are reminiscent of Mario’s OTTO, and the room painted boldly.

NOTE: For those of you wanting to experience Mozza soon, walk away from the computer now and call for a reservation… you’re gonna need it.

The menu at Mozza also reminds you of OTTO, except the dishes are wonderfully different. There are no pasta dishes at Mozza (the Osteria opens in a few months) but the menu is loaded with antipasti, insalate, sliced cured meats, bruschette, panini… and of course… incredible pizza.


Antipasti is far from normal at Mozza, with selections that range from crispy, delectable Fried Squash Bottoms with Ricotta… to more tradidtional Roasted Beets with Hazelnuts. Salad dishes are appealing, but with the delicious meats including Coppa, Lardo (made from the back of the pig and is prepared by first cutting the meat and treating the individual pieces with salt and spices such as cinnamon) and Proscuitto, as well as White Bean Bruschette… well, you need a bigger stomach.

As good as all this stuff is, the pizza is the star. One pizza is individual sized (cut into 4 nice sized pieces) but if you don’t order several and share, you’ll miss the boat.

At the top of the list you’ll find a simple tomato, olive oil and oregano version… and then it gets fantastic. Fennel sausage, panna and red onion…. Littleneck clams, garlic, oregano and cheese….Lambs quarters with cacao di roma…. Long cooked broccoli, caciocavallo and pepperocini…. Lardo, rosemary and olive oil… spicy salami, mozzarella and chilis…. and the list goes on and on.


I wish I could liken this pizza to another, but honestly it isn’t quite like anything I have ever had. The toppings are well seasoned and perfect.. and the tomato sauce sweetened unmistakably by San Marzano tomatoes… but the crust is magnificent. Imagine a two layered thin and crispy/chewy pastry dough. Not to tough… and just the right balance of flavor to hold what’s on top. It’s unique… and downright delicious.
I am giddy that Mozza has opened to such acclaim, and even happier that I’ll have a taste of NYC while on business here in LA… I only wish they’d open one on the Upper West Side!

Enjoy Mozza. It’s a gem of a spot that will certainly become a LA mainstay.

2006 FORKIES: The Best Of New York

Well, it’s that time of year. The leaves are falling, holiday decorations are appearing and the last month of the year is upon us.

About this time every year I open up my Outlook calendar and review exactly what I’ve done and where I’ve been. I’m always amazed by the amount of stuff I have checked off my list… and the amount of it I have forgotten about.

But one thing I love to do is reflect on the fun stuff… and compile a list of favorites.

In honor of the more popular award shows… I hereby present my 2006 “Forkies” … the very best (in my humble opinion) of New York spread over many different categories.

And the FORKIE goes to…..



SALAD OF THE YEAR
Parsley and Pancetta Salad, Lupa
It is tremendous in its composition… but when the waiter comes to the table with a rendered pot of hot bacon fat, well, it really doesn’t get any better. This dish rotates on and off the menu, so if you visit and it doesn’t appear… complain!

PASTA DISH OF THE YEAR
Black Tagliatelle with Roasted Corn, Babbo
Part of the pasta tasting menu, this amazing dish if simply the best pasta dish in NYC. The freshness of the corn with the light sauce and grated cheese are a work of art. Make a reservation… you’re gonna need it.

BEST STEAK HOUSE FOR 2006
Quality Meats
I know, I know… Lugar’s. But the truth is as great as Peter Lugar’s is; the experience is old school NYC. I love it, but I truly love an evening at Quality Meats, an operation run by the Smith and Wollensky folks. Details?... how about tableside BBQ sauce and individual homemade pies for desert?

SUSHI SPOT
Mamoya
It’s situated in a busy Chelsea neighborhood, but don’t let its simple setting fool you. The room is hip, and the food is fresh and delicate… Nobu style. Except, the check is about half of what you might expect.

BEST EGG DISH
Café Lalo
I know. It’s crowded. Touristy. But the steamed eggs with Brie are the best in the city, and the artisan breads are baked in house. I’d love to complain, but the food is too damn good.

BEST SCOTTISH BEER SELECTION
St. Andrews Pub
There is something about a bunch of guys wearing kilts. Not only are the bartenders authentic, the tap includes a selection of beer that draws a huge crowd of European alcoholics. For me, I belly up to the bar and drink as much Tennants Lager as I can muster.

BEST CUP CAKE…. REALLY.
Two Little Red Hens Bakery
The cup cake thing has really spiraled out of control, and mostly with hype. Having tried all of the “popular” spots, I finally had what is hands down the most amazing cupcake in NYC at Two Little Red Hens Bakery, on Second Ave on the Upper East Side. Sure their Brooklyn locale is well known, but the Manhattan spot is no less popular, and with decadent carrot cake cupcakes, I can see why.

BEST BARGIN BAR FOOD
Del Frisco’s
I have been talking about it all year, so I won’t beat a dead horse. Just go. Order a martini. Order the steak tips (which are filet mignon heaped over a mound of homemade mashed potatoes). Call and thank me later.

BEST NEW FRENCH BISTRO
Café D’alsace
Top Notch food. Great wine. Superior setting. The folks who bring you Nice Matin bring you NY’s best new French hang, on the lovely Upper East. You’ll love this place.

BEST THROWBACK HOTEL BAR
Sir Harry’s, Waldorf Astoria
Ever find yourself wanting to hide in a dark mahogany bar at 2:30 in the afternoon? This is your place. You can hear the ghosts in here, and they still love the place. Splurge, you’re worth it.

BEST MUSIC VENUE
The Allen Room, Time Warner Center
Part of the Jazz at Lincoln Center Complex, this is hands down the most remarkable setting in NYC to listen to live music. The view over Central Park through the glass-draped stage doesn’t hurt, either.

BEST HAMBURGER YOU CAN'T FIT INTO YOUR MOUTH AROUND
Jackson Hole
Sure, you think you can eat it. You pick it up, close your eyes and try and shove it in. But, trust me, it won’t fit. These are 4 inch tall patties, steam grilled to your liking… and delish. You can always find a better burger… but this one should be on your short list.

BEST SANDWICH, NOT FROM CARNAGIE, KATZ’S or ARTIES
Toasties Deli
This was a hard one, as I love classic deli sandwiches. But every time I eat a sandwich from Toasties I find myself saying… this may very well be the best sandwich in NYC. And now I am convinced, it is. The House Combo and Downtown Special are unreal… and why this place doesn’t have 5 locations in the city is a real headscratcher.

BEST COZY WINE BAR
Bin 71
Is it the food? The great beers? The superb wine list? Well, yes… I guess it is. If only I can get a seat at the damn bar. The Upper West Side never had it so good.

BEST CHEESE PLATE
Otto
Come on, you know it’s true. Mario gets it, and he delivers at Otto with a selection of cheese accompanied by three dipping opportunities for the stuff… including honey and truffles. I think I have stolen more stuff off of his menu for my own home entertaining than any place in NYC.

BEST STREET MEAT
Halal Cart, 53rd and 6th
So we all know about this place now, and the line down the block is legendary… but for good reason. The chicken and rice is the best deal in town… and the tangy white garlic/tahini/yogurt sauce they squirt across the top is downright illegal.

BEST CRAM INTO YOUR MOUTH SUGAR FIX
Beard Papa’s
Is there anyone who doesn’t love a good creampuff? Beard Pap’s popped up early in the year, and now boast and UWS locale as well. The puffs are baked hot and fresh, and the cream squirted inside the thing while you wait. Unfortunately, I have problems getting these home.

BEST PULLED PORK SANDWICH
Dinosaur BBQ
It’s a funky spot you need to visit for the hell of it anyway, but don’t be fooled… some of the grub here is quality stuff, and the pulled pork qualifies as best in it’s category. It’s slow roasted tender, and with their tangy and slightly spicy sauce and pickles, is a throwback to a sandwich you might find in South Carolina….

BEST UNIQUE DUMPLINGS
Wu Liang Ye
They have terrific dishes… including great noodles… but lets not beat around the bush. The Sichuan Pork Dumplings with Roasted Chili Vinaigrette are worth a cab ride across town.

BEST BUDGET PLATE
Neptune Polish Diner
Sure they have diner food here, but why would you eat it when you can order a plate of sauerkraut and mushroom pierogies with sour cream for $5.85? By the way, their red borsht is the best you’ll ever eat.

BEST BLOW OUT DINNER
Alain Ducasse at the Essex House
OK, so I didn’t pay the bill here… but if I would have had too, I would be working a second job rather than writing this blog. It’s snobby, pretentious and frilly… but remarkable in everyway. Note: Alain is moving this spot downtown as we speak….

BEST SUNDAY AFTERNOON MALL HANG
Bouchon Bakery, Time Warner Center
As much as I love Chelsea Market, I love the specialty sandwiches and wines by the glass. And oh yea, other than something out of the deli at Whole Foods (in the basement), it’s the only place I actually afford to eat while shopping in the Time Warner Center.

BEST CRUSTY BAGEL
Tal
We all have our favorite bagel joints, and this one is mine. They are everything you would expect from a perfect Manhattan bagel… warm and chewy on the inside… crusty on the outside. Add their amazing flat bagels (sesame for me) and you get the perfect breakfast. Or lunch. Or whenever.

BEST HOT CHOCOLATE
Jacques Torres
It’s no secret that one of the best chocolate makers in the world resides in NYC… but what many don’t know is that he also makes the best Hot Chocolate known to man. The powered mix, lumped full of chunks of gourmet chocolate should be a required addition to every New York kitchen.

BEST SCOTCH AND CIGAR
Hudson Bar and Books
I know… it’s the size of my closet… but where else in the city can you sip a scotch older than your brother while enjoying a Romeo and Juliet? Skip the food here… this place is meant to smoke.

BEST PASTA AND CIGAR
Florio’s
I still don’t understand how Florio’s can legally allow folks in the bar to smoke, drink and eat… but they do. I don’t ask questions. Recommended: anything in their vodka sauce.

BEST BUBBLE TEA
Ten Ren Café, Chinatown
You can get bubble tea almost anywhere these days… but this location of Ten Ren offers a frozen variety with giant gooey bubbles. Yum.

BEST FAST FOOD
Chipotle
Yes, the novelty is beginning to wear off… but the truth remains that Chipotle offers fresh, hot food for very few $$.

So….. there you have it! The 2006 FORKIES. Grab the Pepto and get going!

Dining With The Turks at Zeytin

Could the Best Turkish Food in NYC Actually On The Upper West?



I am an international man of mystery.

Not in my adventures, but my culinary tastes.

Sure, I’ve had the chance to travel to some 30 countries… and I’ve never been shy about trying the local fare (no monkey brains for me, thanks). But what I’ve never been able to figure out is how I can love the food of one nation and really hate the food of another.

One cuisine I love is Turkish. Maybe because it’s closely linked to Lebanese, or Israeli… or Persian… or maybe because I love the “meze” style of eating the stuff. No matter how much I eat… I never get tired of this food.

My recent obsession of falafel has led me to start exploring the gabillion offerings here in NYC, and low and behold I found one of the best Turkish offerings in my own Upper West Side neighborhood… a true gem named “Zeytin”.

Zeytin as a word means “olive” in Turkish… but in this incarnation means fantastic food.

I found myself at the restaurant on a cool but not freezing November night… and opted for a table outdoors… a patio we would have to ourselves. We began with a cocktail (uber large martinis poured happily) but could have easily ordered a glass of wine from a solid but unspectacular wine list. All is well.

Making food choices at Zeytin can prove challenging. The truth is, the cold and hot appetizers are so terrific, you can (and next time we will) make a meal of them by themselves.

Wanting a large sample, we ordered the mixed plate of cold meze and were blown away. The hummus was top shelf… rich and flavorful with the perfect balance of chick pea and tahini. Along side was a bowl of tangy Cocik… a thick yogurt sauce with diced cucumbers and garlic. On the plate as well was maybe my favorite, Hoydari… a scoop of thick strained yogurt with dill, mint and garlic… as well as delicate grape leaves stuffed with rice, pine nuts, black currants and herbs… and eggplant salad, grilled smoky and mixed with fresh tomatoes. Terrific.

If it sounds like a lot of food, well, it is. And coupled with the numerous slices of delicious homemade flat bread, we were getting full. But of course, we had ordered dinner, so we decided to tighten our belts and move ahead.

The main courses at Zeytin and well prepared, and beautifully presented. A mild (almost bland) stuffed chicken breast arrived filled with rice, pistachios, peppers and currants. It was a nice dish, but didn’t quite live up to the quality of the meze we had experienced.

That said, the second entrée did. Iskender, a dish of roasted lamb and beef, served atop crispy pipe bread, topped with a spicy tomato sauce with browned butter and yogurt was terrific. The meats were tender, and the dish was a perfect blend of Turkish flavors. Highly recommended.

Of course there are salads, hot apps, desserts… but the experience I would recommend is this.

1. Call someone you like.
2. Find a cozy table at Zeytin.
3. Order a bottle of wine.
4. Order the Mixed App Plate, and a few hot apps.
5. Skip dinner (unless you are a big eater, then split a chicken shish)
6. Split a wonderful dessert
7. Enjoy a brisk evening walk in a charming Upper West Side neighborhood.



That’s the word. Zeytin. An true gem, and simply fantastic stuff.



Zeytin
519 Columbus Ave- At 85th St
New York, NY 10024

212 579-1145

Andre's Secret: Bin 71

Sip, Nibble and Be As Hip As You Wanna Be


I hate to even write this.

It seems every time I stumble across what I would call a “gem”, I open my big mouth, and the word gets out. Not that I can take responsibility for setting culinary trends in this fair city mind you, but I do know that enough people read this blog to spark some chatter (or so my email tells me)… or at least drive someone to a plate of fried chicken somewhere. But good is good, and I just can’t keep this one to myself.

So in lieu of keeping the marvelous secret to myself, I hereby blog, Bin 71.

Where to start.

Bin 71 is everything that makes New York great (did I just write that campy little nugget?).

It’s a wine spot with terrific vintages and surprisingly good and hard to find beers on tap (think Blue Point, Double Chocolate Stout and hearty German Pils).

It’s a cozy meeting place to meet your “other” and never be seen.

It’s a gourmet hang with small plates of crudités and large bowls of spicy stew.

It’s a plate of toasted Tuscan bread smothered in warm Nutella chocolate.

All of this, and only 22 seats. 10 of which I would call rather cramped.


You see, Bin 71 is a tiny, charming space that may be the size of your living room (if that). When you enter you realize… the space is about 12 feet deep, and about 25 feet wide.

Around the handsome bar are Sunday afternoon regulars, sipping wine, reading the paper in utter sophistication… commenting on the topics of the day… over a glass of Malbec. This is heaven.

No college rats, no fluff. Neighborhood folks, doing their thing.

It is the spot the tourists seek but never find, the place you can convince yourself that you and you alone discovered.

And where is it?

Well, the surprising fact is, it is an Upper West Side hang. Yup. Really.

You’ll walk in and snicker for sure, as it looks and feels about as West Village as a place can look… if not Nolita. But sure thing, it is a UWS joint, tucked in an unassuming block of Columbus between 70 and 71.

Here comes the bad news.

The place has been open a while. Which means, unless you are targeting an off-peak visit, you are going to have trouble getting a seat. Folks like to hang out here, and waiting for a seat to open up can take a while.

Attached to the outer walls of Bin 71 are small counters and stools, but there is no mystery… the bar boasts the most coveted seats in the house. This place is s-m-a-l-l.

Is it worth it??

Well yes, it is.

My Sunday afternoon visit was maybe the best weekend “re-set” I’ve had in months. For those of you with stressful jobs, you know all about weekend resets. That moment when you can put the week behind you, toast your partner and think of bigger and better things. You forget the parents, the pesky unassuming neighbors, the late subway train, the line at Dunkin Donuts.

Places like Bin 71 are made for just the occasion. Or just about any occasion when you need to hunt down a tiny, charming space… and escape to New York.


Bin 71
237 Columbus at 71st
Daily until 1am

Dinner and a Show: Thalia Shines In Midtown

Steps to Broadway, And A World of Choice



There is something magical about a pre-show dinner in New York’s Theatre District.

Having served up about a 20 million of these, most of the restaurants have the thing down to a science. They know how many drinks you can have, when you should be ordering, and how much time you might have for desert... to get you into your seats on time.

I’ve had many a pre-show meal down there… including the solid Orso, the mostly disappointing Ruby Foo’s (great martinis can bring you back) and the touristy Osteria al Doge.

But one of my true favorites happens to be Thalia.

Thalia is the quintessential date place. What’s that mean? Well, there is a lot of eye candy in the hip, midtown design… and the food is even better.

My first trip to Thalia was last year, and I had no date. Working in NYC I found myself yearning for a bachelor theatre night, and had scored a front row ticket to Spelling Bee, one of the more fun evenings on Broadway.

With an hour to curtain and a cigar in my pocket, I landed steps away from the theatre at Thalia on the patio… sipped a martini, lit my cigar, and munched on a duet of yellow fin tuna sashimi and tuna tartare. For a quick entrée I had two delish crabcakes (more crab than crumbs to my surprise) and for desert, a terrific banana tart.

Sold.

A few months later I was back, this time with my lovely wife at my side, and those same Spelling Bee tickets. Yes, I like the show that much.

This trip to Thalia had spanned the season and seen the chilly patio close, exposing the cozy, classic interior space as the true star of the show.

With reservation in hand, we were seated in less than a minute. Once at the table, I began to remember just how much I had enjoyed my last visit.

Having enjoyed my patio visit, this meal also started with the tuna and crabcake apps I remembered… but also included dinner choices as I planned my time a bit more diligently.

Cheese selections are a great albeit pricy option at Thalia, but the entrees shine.

The pastas are simple, well rounded… and flavorful. The spaghetti is a basic tomato and basil dish… wile the Mushroom Ravioli a more complex creation with asparagus and porcini truffles.

Meats are wonderfully prepared and include a fine double cut pork chop that I found filling. Also available is a Seared Duck Breast, Braised Lamb Shank and a Grilled Filet of Beef, with a black truffle sauce. All solid.

Fish lovers won’t be disappointed, as the traditional bistro salmon and halibut make an appearance… but even better is the broad choice of fresh oysters from the raw bar. Littleneck clams shine here… and the jumbo shrimp cocktail can hang with most in the city. I have found all of the seafood here to be very fresh.

Yes, the food is good and can occasionally be very good. But the vote of confidence here is for the night.

A classic place, a good menu and a great bar.

Followed by a great show, and I think you have the recipe for a near perfect theatre evening in NYC.

Enjoy Thalia. And oh yea, if you haven’t seen Spelling Bee, do yourself a favor and get a ticket while nearly the entire original cast remains on Broadway. This is a charming night of theatre, appropriate for just about all audiences.

See you in the Theatre District!



Thalia

828 8th Ave, New York 10019
At 50th St

Phone: 212-399-4444

SushiSamba 7 - Funky In The Village

Rock Solid For West Village Hipsters, But Still Worth The $$ ?



I love trekking down to the West Village for eats. My 15 minute subway ride feels like a world apart from the sleepier Upper West Side.

I always tell people that my heart lives in the Village, and my wallet lives on the Upper West Side. So, trips downtown are essential for me… and I love to venture down and chow.

I have several favorites…. German grub at Leiderhosen, cheese shopping at Murray’s, a grandma slice at Bleeker Street Pizza, free range chicken fingers from Dirty Bird… you get the picture…..

Recently, a friend suggested we meet in the neighborhood, and I tossed out a joint that has always intrigued me. I’ve had several quality meals there… but the items can be hit or miss… so I thought I’d take a moment to set you straight on the colorful sushi hang, Sushi Samba 7.


First, the place is full of good looking folks. Nearly any night of the week there is a crowd, and for good reason. The drinks are great, the food solid and the atmosphere a little stuffy look at me-me. Ah, New York.

I’ve certainly had better sushi and Brazilian and South American food in NYC… but with a rooftop patio and sliding walls in the main dining room, the place feels connected with the city…. which is always a good thing.

Reservations are a good idea here, and even with them, you’ll likely wait. We waited nearly an hour for changing our 4 top to a 3 top (are you kidding me?) and were rewarded with a plate of gratis calamari. It was average stuff, and all kidding aside, I’ll take getting seated on time.

The room was packed on this Tuesday evening, and the bar was hopping. Good news for those who must wait…. as the bar has some great signature drinks and a killer wine list. Maybe next time I’ll ask for a glass of pino while I wait....

At the table, the dishes come recommended by the wait staff. Having eaten there on a few occasions, I was curious what exactly would be recommended, and sure enough, it was all the stuff I had last time. Seems that the wait staff knows what people like, and would rather please for the nice tip then send anyone up the wrong road. Pity.

So, the solid stuff on the menu?

Easy.


The great stuff: Tuna Sashimi Tiradito with green apple and red jalapeño. The Green Envy Roll encrusted with wasabi peas, filled with tuna, salmon, asparagus and key lime mayo. The miso Chilean Sea Bass, which seems to find it’s way onto every table in the place. And the basic Churrasco, with ribeye, pork and linguia sausage. Tasty, but by no means real Churrasco.

As mentioned above, the wine list is terrific. There is a wine cellar downstairs, next to what may be the swankiest bathrooms in the West Village. Complete with attendant.

If you are a sushi hound, you’ll find a good selection of stuff you really like, for a price. If sushi isn’t your thing, there are still items to choose (meats, rock shrimp, beef maki) but none of them will have you calling friends and family. Solid, unspectacular stuff.

Sushi Samba is still about the scene. Hip, urban, noisy. Good bar.

You can likely save some cash by dropping by before dinner down the street for a bowl of edamame and a Caipirinha. Or after, for a Choco Loco (trust me on this one) and the warm chocolate banana cake.

Oh yea, now we talkin baby.


SushiSamba 7
Japanese, Sushi, Brazilian, South American

87 7th Ave S, New York 10014
Btwn Grove & Barrow St

Phone: 212-691-7885

Because It’s 3am, and You Need to Eat

Dress to Impress and Suggest One Of These Gems....




Greetings food lovers.

I write this email only 24 hours away from a quick blast to South Louisiana for a much needed 72 hour escape.

For me, it’s a trip home… but compared to the rest of you who have made this pilgrimage, it’s usually about the same thing… food.

Silly to think that I’ve already pegged most of my meals, calling ahead to confirm that my favorites are still there. But when you have soooo little time and so many things to gobble, I see nothing wrong with a little planning.

Curious?

I’ll start my afternoon at Georges, the legendary lounge under the Perkins Road overpass in Baton Rouge. I’ll order the best fried shrimp poboy known to man, with a loaf of onion rings and an ice cold Miller Lite (The State Beer of Louisiana).

Two hours later, I’ll stop by Fleur De Leis for a Round The World pizza (maybe the best pizza in the US?) and another Miller Lite, served in a tiny chilled glass. Note: I am now pacing myself.

By 5:30, I’ll be at the bar at Mansuers, ordering a dozen Grilled Oysters, freshly shucked, swimming in butter, garlic, herbs and cheese, bubbling over an open grill until fully cooked, served with a hot loaf of French bread. Life is good.

By this time, I’m having a draft Abita.

Dinner at this point is a mystery, although I’m sure I’ll wind up at Coffee Call for beignets and café au lait.

Uh, that’s just Friday.

Anyway, my blog this week is in response to a NY Times piece that ran this week, joyously highlighting all night eateries in the city. As good as the piece was, it didn’t include reviews of these spots… so I thought I’d review their list, and fill you in on the places that would be worth staying up for.

Here we go.

Open Until 2am

Andre’s Pick

La Esquina (serving tacos until 5am)

The dining room may close at 2am, but the tacos are worth getting out of bed for. Try the biztec or the Cochinita (pulled pork)… and be amazed. The tortillas are homemade corn, and this may be the most authentic taco this side of Mexico City.

Second Choice:

Pastis
Sure, it’s pretentious. And sure, you may wait for a table. But that said, there is nothing wrong with noshing on a Croque-Monsieur after midnight, especially if you can wash it down with a flute of Veuve-Clicquot.

Open Until 3 am

Andre’s Pick

‘Inoteca

Those who know me know that this is one of my favorite haunts in NYC. The fact that its on the Lower East makes it uber cool. The wines are terrific, the panini perfect and the polpette just like mama use to make. But lets be honest… is there a better dish on the Lower east than the Truffle Egg Toast with Bottarga? I think not.

Second Choice:
None… unless you need to spy on the beautiful people across the street at THOR.

Open Until 4 am

Andre’s Pick

Employees Only
My first trip here was in fact at 3:30 am, and it warmed my heart to see a joint packed from wall to wall… with people munching on crepes, sushi, fried oysters and fish tacos. Yup, its that kinda of place… few rules and a lot of fun. The fact that nearly every table featured a chain smoker who was using a salad plate as an ashtray should tell you of the kind of tension release that happens on a nightly basis.

Second Choice:

Blue Ribbon
Why? Because, Andre needs his collard greens at 4am. He also needs his salt and pepper shrimp, fried chicken, spicy catfish and roasted duck club sandwich. Leave room for a banana split... and be prepared to call in sick tomorrow, you’re gonna need to sleep this one off.


Have fun. Stay up late. Eat out. It’s New York.

In Case You Missed It….. Again

You do your thing, and I'll Keep You Fed





Hi there friends… welcome to fall.

Not sure of the temps in your town, but here in NYC fall has arrived. The leaves in Central Park are gaining color, people are wearing heavier clothes, and coffee shops are thriving. It won't be long before the ice skates are coming out of storage in Rockefeller Plaza. I love this place.

Fall always means a shift in the restaurant scene here in NYC, as many of the outdoor patio locations transform themselves back into sidewalks… and the once romantic, crammed indoor spots return. Street vendors warm themselves over their grills and people have complete swearing fits as 10 degree wind chills cut through them like a knife. What joy.

Much happening here as always, and I'm on the beat keeping you in the game.

In case you missed it, here are a few items of note this week in the NYC food scene:


Still Da Bomb
You don’t have to feel like a total tourist to stop into Café Lalo on the UWS. Sure, it was the spot of a noteworthy scene from the sappy film “You’ve Got Mail”, and yes, the trees are adorned with Christmas lights… But truth be told, their steamed eggs are terrific, artisan breads and cheeses fresh… and desserts spectacular. Throw in top notch coffee (stay away from mixed drinks here, stick with wine or bubbly) and you’ve got a joint that you could steal a heart in. Until 4am. 83rd and Amsterdam

Call U-Haul
Word on the street is that Chef sensation Alain Ducasse is moving his restaurant from the Essex House… somewhere downtown. With the Time Warner Center down the street, I can’t say that the neighborhood will miss yet another $200 prix fixe joint, but as history shows, wherever Ducasse's restaurants land, people will follow. Location TBD

Waste of Time
I’m not one to slam restaurants, as this blog has always served as a celebration of food. But when I have a meal that is really very very poor and terribly overpriced, I must speak out. You’ll find this meal and others at the amazingly tired China Grill, located in midtown. The outrageous prices might be able to justify themselves if in fact the food was ok… but it is simply horrible. The $20 crabcakes contained no crab, the $36 skirt steak was chewy and cold, the noodle dishes mushy and overcooked and the bill, $60 too high. Do yourself a favor and opt for Wu Liang Ye on West 48th. The noodles are amazing, the dumplings the best north of Chinatown, and you won’t break the bank. Life is too short to eat crap like that served at China Grill (maybe they need a few Chinese people on the grill) 53rd btw 5th and 6th

Because You Need Your Weiner
After weeks of panic, I am happy to report the my German friends at the happening sausage cart HALLO BERLIN are back and in business at 54th and 5th street. If you haven’t had a homemade sausage off of this cart, you don’t know what you are missing…

The boys carry nearly 10 different types of sausages in a variety of offerings as well as meatballs. Oh yea, you also can get a real crusty roll, 2 types of kraut, amazing sautéed onions and homemade mustard. Yes, there is a line... but the good things come to those who wait. 54th at 5th Ave




Is The World Coming To An End?
I asked myself this question when last week I saw something completely out of place… an organized menu at YIP’S, the midtown get-your-food-in-30-seconds Chinese joint. The boys in the back have drafted a new menu, and don’t make everything everyday, so plan accordingly. That said, the Garlic Chicken is still great, the egg rolls hot (and not greasy) and the noodles cheap and delish. It’s a load of food for only $5 bucks and remains one of the areas better deals. And I can get there from my desk in less than 3 minutes, depending on the elevator traffic. 52nd btw 5th and 6th

Konnichiwa from the Upper West

Matsu... close your eyes and imagine the Ginza



There are few places in the world that fascinate me more than Japan.

Observing their society became a sincere hobby of mine a few years ago when I was working their fairly regularly… and to this day, I marvel with the efficiency they manage the 12,369,000 people that live in Tokyo alone. It is a mixture of technology and tradition, where glass and chrome skyscrapers neighbor Shinto Shrines centuries old. It is pop culture on steroids… it is soft spoken women in hand made kimonos.


Imagine how popular my 6’2, 280 pound frame was walking down the streets of Shinjuku. In the land of sumo giants, I heard more than my share of gasps and giggles. They must have thought… “now that is one big ass American”.

I love that.

Truth be told, my first experience in Tokyo wasn’t different from the breakout movie “Lost in Translation”. I was a guest at the Park Hyatt (same hotel), marveled at the view (Mt. Fuji) and could never fall asleep. High atop the Park Hyatt is the New York Bar which really does host American entertainment, including jazz friends of mine from the west coast. I spent a lot of time there. Watching the film was eerie and the insomnia all too real.

That said, sleepless nights fed my hunger to learn the local cuisine… and I fell in love with many different styles of Japanese cooking (at all hours of the night)… including shabu-shabu and robato grilled meats.

But one “fast favorite” of mine became a dish known as katsu-don… or pork cutlet over rice.

The dish sounds simple, and it is… but the flavors are unique and addictive. First, you start with a bowl of hot steaming Japanese white rice. On top, you place a fried pork cutlet, sliced into strips, with an egg (scrambled into the cutlet after frying) and top it all with a sauce that is sweet and salty in nature. The dish now gets sprinkled with fresh chopped green onions and presto; the perfect katsu-don.

As far as origin, the dish takes its name from the Japanese words tonkatsu (for pork cutlet) and donburi (for rice bowl dish). It has become a modern ritual tradition for Japanese students to eat katsudon the night before taking a major test or school entrance exam… and for tourists like me who need to warm up to fairly familiar cuisine before jumping of the deep end and eating something I can name or recognize.
There is an art to making this stuff…. mainly in the skill of breading the cutlet in panko (japanese bread crumbs) and the addition of the egg. The sauces can also vary from a typical katsu-type sauce (imagine a worcestershire thing) to a demi-glace, to a soy based and even miso.

So, no two katsu-dons are alike.

In NYC, you can grab a bowl of this stuff nearly anywhere good Japanese food is sold, making the city pilgrimage a fun one. Where do I order my next katsu-don??

One place that gets it right (as well as all of their food) is Matsu… located on Columbus between 83 & 84 on NY’s Upper West Side.

Matsu is the quintessential NYC Japanese dive… and their food resonates in an authenticity unique to Tokyo. Sure you can find the things you expect… crispy Gyoza, Beef Negimaki, perfect sushi and sashimi…. but you’ll also find blue collar dishes like soba and udon noodle dishes, delicately fried oysters and a perfect Chilean Sea Bass.

I try not to mention Matsu to many people in an effort to not expose this gem of a find… as I can still get a table at 7:30 on a week night. But alas, ForkNY calls, and the cat is now out of the bag.

Matsu offers a pork and chicken version of katsu-don, and both are terrific. But if you can't get to Matsu, I highly recommend you look for the dish at your local dive. If it’s not on the menu, I can almost promise you they'll make a version for you… as when they take their meal breaks…. they're more often than not eating it.

Matsu ($$$)
Japanese, Sushi

483 Columbus Ave, New York 10024
Btwn 83rd & 84th St

Phone: 212-799-7922
Fax: 212-799-8597

Does Puck Make "The Cut"?

Get Ready For Dinner and a Show in Los Angeles


I’ve imagined a lot of restaurant interiors in my lifetime… and had the opportunity to work with my wife Jami designing two of my own restaurants… one, a Cajun crabshack nestled into Chicago’s Gold Coast (Beignet’s Louisiana Kitchen) ; the other a Spanish tapas room in Baton Rouge’s reborn downtown district (The Lava Room).

My days of owning and operating restaurants are gone for good (ok, never say never)… but my appreciation for beautiful spaces continues to flourish.

Last week I had the opportunity to dine at the highly anticipated “CUT” Steakhouse, the uber-cool creation of Chef Wolfgang Puck and legendary architect Richard Meier.


Upon entering the space, it was obvious that the design team was going for “wow”, and most often, that’s what they get.

This place doesn’t look like any steakhouse I’ve ever seen. It’s a California cool space washed in pure whites and natural light. Instead of dark mahogany booths you get blond teakwood. Clubby leather chairs give way to Knoll-style chrome and mesh, and the amenities are clean and well appointed. Imagine having dinner in the Design Within Reach showroom. Or the lobby of MOMA.

It was a nice change.

For me, it’s always been about the food, and CUT does many things very well… and they have to. Being located in the Regent Beverly Wilshire (A Four Seasons Property) comes with a price tag, and believe you me, this place ain’t cheap. Not that a quality steakhouse should be… but there is expensive… and also “holy crap this is expensive.”

You’ll be hard pressed to find a dish on this menu you recognize, other than the steaks themselves, which nearly all come bone-in. This is fine by me, as bone-in usually means more flavor… but when you are dropping $48 on a piece of meat, you’re expecting something special.

Apps here can be eventful and silly at the same time. The Kobe Beef Sashimi is a popular choice and is solid. A classic steak tartare also makes an appearance. There is Warm Veal Tongue and Maple Glazed Pork Belly for those more adventurous, and an Heirloom Tomato and Goat Cheese dish for those who aren’t. In the middle, you have a wide variety of options including a Lobster and Crab “Louie” cocktail, Foie Gras and a Bone Marrow Flan which steals the show. It’s a nice selection… but at an average price of $20, be careful. You haven’t ordered the wine yet.

Kobe beef, as well American Waygu made an appearance in the US several years ago, and both continue to build momentum. Both varieties are available at CUT, and both come with a steep price. While a 6oz American Waygu can start around $60, the Japanese Kobe will set you back $120 for an 6oz New York Strip… and $160 for an 8oz Ribeye.

Ouch.

But is it worth it?

Good question. To me, no…. as I love the flavor of USDA Prime Beef, cooked perfectly. Sure, the Kobe stuff cuts like butter and tastes the same, but as unique as that taste is… it’s not the hearty steak I’ve come to know and love. Should you try it once? Absolutely. Would I serve it at a holiday BBQ?

Nah.

Steaks come with a variety of sauces, and I’m fairly sure every sauce on the planet is represented. From Mustard, to Chimichurri, to Bernaise, to Foie Gras “Rossini” style, and extra $2 will aid you in covering the taste of the steak you just mortgaged your house to buy.

The sides are delicious but still sides. The Swiss Chard is exceptional, and the fingerling potatoes “Lyonnaise” interesting. There are also mushrooms galore as well as Potato Tarte Tatin.

For those who aren’t as fond of red meat as I, there is a nice selection of fish dishes including Sea Bass, Big Eye Tuna and lobster… and a few pork and duckling offerings to make you pause. The best non-steak option may very well be the Veal “Holstein Schnitzel” with capers and fried egg. This is a dish Puck does better than any chef in America.


So good in fact, that I made a special trip to his Las Vegas eatery “Postrio” several years ago to eat it. It’s offered at lunch on the patio, and served with spaetzle and warm potato salad… maybe I’ll save this one for another time.

By the time you’ve reached dessert you are full… which is a shame, because the desserts looked amazing. On top of tha