Madeleine Mae: A Change Of Pace on The UWS

Like It Or Not, I Have An Opinion




This proud southerner has noticed that newcomer Madeleine Mae is causing a stir on the Upper West Side.

Critics have been quick to pan this newly opened restaurant/café, but I am not. That said, I feel the need to fire back, so call this my “rebellious rebuttal” to the over-analyzing food sect.

Attention Bruni lovers and Chowhound faithful: Give it a rest.

First, understand what Madeleine Mae is not. This is not a Creole gem such as New Orleans famous “Dookie Chase”. This is not a Cajun imposter, like the recently closed UWS Jacques-Imo’s. This isn’t really a soul/creole/Cajun place at all. Really.

The feel of Madeleine Mae is that of Carolina breeze. This is home to comfort food with an original, nostalgic twist. An unusual shrimp and grits dish, biscuits and cornbreads, sides of greens, mac and cheese, fish dishes and plates of pork loin. Neatly mixed cocktails and a menu of “Rhum Cures”… (rum that is infused with other flavors such as vanilla, banana, cinnamon, etc). Tempting desserts that are worth saving room for.

All of it slightly overpriced for the UWS (shrimp and grits $15.95 for a small side dish portion), but accessible and often delicious.

I’d encourage you to visit Madeleine Mae just about anytime, but without question, this is a brunch joint. The menu provides an interesting mix at dinner, but the brunch menu is full of real temptation.

I’ll set the table for you.

It’s a gorgeous, lazy Saturday afternoon about 2pm. You and the other have dropped the dog at the “Canine Ranch” for an afternoon of playtime. Needing to unwind from an aggressive week of work tasks you left unfinished (you need a raise, and some of the others in the office to allow you to catch your breath), you wander across the street to Madeleine Mae and to ask for the table tucked inside of the open French doors, facing the sidewalk. You are seated.

You pause and think, “this is all good”.

Instantly, the space smells of yumness. The place isn’t crowded, but there are people. You promptly get a menu, and are asked if a cocktail, beer or Rhum cure is in order. You oblige.

The menu reveals fantastic frittatas, large impressive omelets and thick smoky bacon coked to order. This would be an easy decision if not for the sweet and savory French toast, biscuits and gravy and possibly the best Meyer lemon pancakes in Manhattan. Of course there are fresh fruit options and lighter fare as well. You notice these aren’t “Denny’s” prices, but you also realize that you aren’t at “Denny’s”. For this, you are grateful.

After sipping your last sip of champagne, your brunch arrives… looking and smelling terrific. About that time your Rhum cure arrives, and you begin to slip into your Saturday afternoon in style.

This is the part where you ask to see the dinner menu out of pure curiosity. You note the items that might bring you back, and then dismiss them as you have now named Madeleine Mae “your” brunch spot. The check comes; you finish your last sip of vanilla infused rum, and head for the door. Your companion says, “you see, I told you that you would like this place.”

As you leave, you see a couple… asking for the table tucked inside the French doors, and smile.

So, enough… foodie haters. Take a moment and realize that if the bread isn’t heated to 81 degrees, or if the soup is in a bread bowl instead of a heated cup, the world isn’t going to end. There are many reasons why we can love a space, and for me Madeleine Mae offers me several to choose from.

After all, this is my brunch place.




Madeleine Mae
461 Columbus Ave. (W. 82nd St.)
New York, NY 10024
212-496-3000


Note: My friends at Madeleine Mae have their faults. An unfinished website and no menupages listing is a kiss of death. My message: Get your act together on the digital side and sell your business. You’ve earned it.

Photo Credit: Steven Richter

Happy Birthday Justin

No restaurant review today, just a tip of the hat to a true Louisiana original, Justin Wilson.

Today is the birthday, in 1914, of Justin Wilson, in Roseland, Louisiana.

I first heard of Justin from my Grandmother (my Nonnie) who sometimes spoke of Justin, as she new him as a boy. She was from Amite, Louisiana (just north of Roseland)... and new everyone in the parish. She often laughed when she heard him speak, as she didn't remember the "thick" cajun accent as they grew up.

He was not exactly a Cajun, but that didn't stop him from becoming the world's best-known ambassador of Cajun culture. He picked up most of his style, "speech", and stories while working along Bayou Lafourche as a young man. He first came to public attention with his comedy routines, but soon he started talking about cooking. Wilson's pioneering television cooking shows became among the most popular of their kind. The recipes, it must be said, were less than brilliant. He was not a stickler for using the best ingredients, and never had a problem using canned this or that. But that's quite authentic. Justin Wilson died in 2001, but his TV shows are still in circulation, his many cookbooks still sell well, and his Cajun jokes are still being repeated--I garontee.

Long live the memory of Justin Wilson.

The Fork NY Top 10 Under $10

Need Something to Snack On For A Few Bucks?... Here are a few of the best.....





In this city, you can get anything. No, really. Anything. But sometimes, that realization can just be too much. What if you just want fast, yummy and simple?

Enter street food.

I qualify street food as anything you can grab from a small store or deli, foodcart, etc... and consume on the street, upright. While I could have named 10 pizza places as well as 20 hamburger places, I have focused here on joints that do real volume, and care about chatter. The list is a diverse gathering of meals, snacks and sweet treats.


So without further ado, here are Andre's Top 10 Under $10. I'll see you at the counter.




10. Hot Dog, Grays Papaya
This isn’t a copout, but a tip of the hat to the guys who have been the backbone of streetfood in NYC for decades. If you haven’t been as of late, the juice is still cold and the perfect snapskin hot dogs warm and toasty. As inflation goes, still affordable at buck and a quarter.

9. Chicken and Rice, Halal Cart at 53 and 6th
The fun is gone with this once “insiders” 3am dinner stop, but that doesn’t change the fact that their chicken and rice container, heaped with grilled pita and topped with magic white sauce (and a spray of spicy) is pure heaven. By the way, this 4pm to 4am cart still demands lines of a half a block and more.


8. Cheesesteak, 95 Miles to philly
There is something about a really good Philly cheesesteak (other than congestive heart failure) and nobody in NYC delivers better than this shop, on 3rd Ave btw 12th and 13th. The beauty of 99 Miles is that it is the same joint you would find in Philly, with the same taste…. Warm chewy bread, filled with steak, onions and whiz. Love it love it love it.


7. Lamb Pita, Kwik Meal Cart (45th and 6th)
Yes, it’s all that and more. Muhammed Rahman used to be a chef at the Russian Tea Room, and is now proprietor of one of the best street-food carts in NYC. Although you can make very few if any bad choices on this menu, the lamb pita stands out as one of the best sandwich options above 14th Street, and the lines at lunch are a good indication that the locals agree. I also recommend the falafel and chicken and rice plate.



6. Cuban Sandwich, Margon
There are dozens of respectable Cuban dives in the city, but Margon does it without the fanfare and high prices. Tucked away in midtown and a skip from Times Square, this mom and pop serves terrific Cuban food, and what could be one of the best Cuban sandwiches in the city. Word on the street is they are now serving these on egg bread as well…..


5. Creampuffs, Beard Papa’s
OK, I admit it. I have ridden the subway to the West Village to buy a box of these lighter than air creampuffs, and eaten every one of them before I could get them home. Twice. These gems are hard to describe, other than heavenly. Freshly baked puffs filled with light flavored cream, while you wait. Thank god they opened on the Upper West, at least now I have a fighting chance of getting 2 or 3 of them back to the apartment.


4. Caramel Crisp and Cheese Popcorn, Garrett’s Popcorn
I first became an addict years ago while living in Chicago, when the smell of their caramelcrisp popcorn would waft down Michigan Avenue. When they moved to Manhattan recently, I knew the reaction would be incredible, and it was. If you haven’t been, go today…. or send yourself a tin online :)

3. Spicy Hot Chocolate, Jacques Torres
I love drinks you can chew, but this is insane. Imagine a glass of smooth, creamy drinkable hot fudge, add some spice and heavy cream… and there you have it. The best cup of hot chocolate on the planet. Now on the Upper West as well.


2. Nutter Butter Cookie, Bouchon Bakery
There is nothing average with anything that comes out of this kitchen in the Time Warner Center, but the sweets are extraordinary. This cookie is the king of their cookie empire, and the line at the counter is a good example of people who have no reservations about shelling out $5 to get one.


1. Falafel Sandwich with Fries, Maoz
I fell in love with Maoz several years ago in Amsterdam, and when this store moved into NYC, I was there on opening day. NOTE: If you are a falafel fan, there is simply none better in New York. Again, hear me people…this is the best falafel in the city. Add killer Belgian fries and a bar of condiments to make your own sandwich, the way YOU like it, and well…. you’ve made Andre’s “best of” list, haven’t you.








note: Andre steals photos from all over the universe to add to his non-profit food blog. If there is a photo of yours here, please let me know so I can credit you, or ask me to remove and I will :)

10 New York City Dishes You Can't Miss

A 2008 Spring Round-Up of The Best of the Best

Yes, New York is full of terrific spots... but one thing is certain... New Yorkers love to single out their favorite dishes. Let me give you an example.

Friend: "How was your weekend?"
Andre: "Great! We ate at Otto Saturday night."
Friend: "Otto! Well did you have the cheese plate with the truffled honey?"
Andre: "Of course I did, don't be stupid."

Case in point. As good as any one restaurant may be, it's the special dishes themselves that drive traffic.

So below, I give you my early 2008 list of killer dishes.... sit down style. In the coming days, I'll post my "casual" list, but for now here is a checklist for you to work on as you make those reservations!


10. Crispy Tuna Roll, Koi
Made famous in LA, the NY outpost of Koi carries on the tradition with great care. What is it? Well, first you combine fresh minced tuna with fine scallions and mix it in a creamy hot sauce to create a thick tuna mixture you can form into fingers. Next, you take a same-sized finger of sushi rice, and actually “grill” it on an open fire BBQ, giving the rice a crispy, smoky flavor. You place the tuna on top of the rice and finish with a thin slice of jalapeno… and presto… you have the most popular sushi dish on the west coast. I’ll see you there.

9. Plantain Fried Rice with Avocado Salad, Asia De Cuba
Another dish I first tried at The Mondrian in Los Angeles, this terrific side dish can be had in all its glory here in The Morgans Hotel. You’d never think that this combination would work, but the guac piled on top of this heaping bowl of rice is magical.

8. Black Spaghetti with rock shrimp, spicy salami calabrese and green chiles, Babbo
It’s hard to believe that a pasta dish can be one of the best in the city, but when Mario is cooking, look out. This is a dish I had in a pasta sampler a while back, and it knocked me out. If you are interested in eating at Babbo anytime soon, you may find yourself in the bar…. rezo’s are a month at best right now.

7. Texas Pink Grapefruit Soup infused with green cardamon, star anise, and tahitian vanilla, Bouley
Only David Bouley could cook up an idea like this and make it amazing… and yes, this is one amazing dish. So good, it’s part of his award-winning tasting menu. One thing is for sure.. there are few places in the city more special on a chilly Saturday night than settling into Bouley’s “living room” for a killer meal.

6. Roasted Hen of the Woods Mushrooms, Craftsteak
Simply put, this is the best mushroom in the world. When you pan roast it in butter and serve it along side a perfectly cooked filet, you have an OMG moment. It eats like a steak itself… with a flavor that will send you searching gourmet grocers across the city. If only I could find them at retail.

5. Corn Creme Brulee, Quality Meats
I appreciate a good, creative side dish… and this one is just that. Fresh, crisp corn in a creamy base and toasted on top… between this and the buttered edamame, Quality Meats knows their side dishes.




4. Truffle Egg Toast with bottarga, inoteca
This has been on my list for 2 years running now, and how can you leave it off? Inoteca is one of the NY's best wine stops, and with perfect panini and dishes like this, it only seems to get better.

3. Sautéed Shrimp frisée, artichokes & capers, Landmarc
The new kid on the block in the Time Warner Center is turning heads… not only for it’s approachability, but for their great tasting dishes. This salad, perfectly balanced with a warm vinaigrette and fresh sautéed shrimp may be the best salad in the city at the moment.

2. Fried Chicken "Blue Ribbon Style" wasabi & honey, Blue Ribbon Sushi Bar and Grill
Blue Ribbon has always been known for fried chicken, and their best version now lives in Midtown. Crispy and delicate, it’s bizarre location on a killer sushi menu is at first a head-scratcher, until you taste it.

1. Sweet Potato Agnolotti with pecan, craft
I wish I could write something clever here, but words can't sum up just how good this dish is. Yes, this is THE best pasta dish in the city at the moment (sorry Mario) and as an extra bonus, it just happens to be at craft.


COMING SOON: Andre's Top 10 Dishes You Can Eat Standing Up......

craft : Is There A Better Night Out?

Now 7 Years Young, A Serious Chef Continues to Prove His Point



As someone who loves food and who has now lived in NYC for several years, I recently asked myself an important question.

How can you have never been to craft?

I’d been to craftbar, craftsteak… hell even ‘wichcraft. But never the jewel, craft.

A few days ago, that all changed.

As a foodie and proud NYC food blogger I am a believer in the skill of Tom Colicchio… and have always believed that one day he too would have his moment in the sun… aside from his sporadic television appearances, that is.

Perhaps I should be careful what I wish for, if in fact this would pull him away from working his magic at his stores, for ‘wich I am truly grateful.

My trip to 19th Street would confirm my irrational fear.

My inagural visit to craft began at 6pm on a Saturday evening. A simple cab ride dropped me at the door, and once inside my dining partner and I were warmly greeted and sat at once.

The menu at craft is a greenmarket approach to dining, and one I love. Truly ala carte in everyway, the menu relies on what’s fresh…. today. Even though the dishes may rotate from time to time, the seasonal approach to this cuisine is refreshing if not highly anticipated.

Even though there is a tempting tasting menu, I went the route of selecting individual courses, which was the right decision. With so many terrific options, I just wanted to “craft” a wider array of dishes, and I did. The service was professional, personal and spot on.

What did we eat?

I started with a pasta dish that literally left me speechless.

The dish was Sweet Potato Agnolotti & Pecan… a plate of delicate pockets of handmade pasta filled with creamy sweet potato and crunchy bits of roasted pecans. Make no mistake folks, this dish was as good or better than ANY pasta dish I have tasted at Babbo…. and if you know me, this is not a statement I make lightly. This was the real deal… and one of the best dishes on any table in the city.

Not to be left out, was the second pasta dish, a Celery Root Ravioli topped with freshly shaved Black Truffles. Unreal… and again, Babbo (or above) quality.

I knew this was going to be good, but I wasn’t ready for an OMG meal.

We added a terrific Friseé and Coppa Salad as well as a plate of beets and fresh tarragon… both terrific but sadly having to follow the pastas which I was still gushing over.

Dinner was a tough choice, but we opted for a Porterhouse for two, which was prepared Lugar style and sliced just right. The steak was on the expensive side, but was tender and flavorful… and accompanied by two roasted bones brimming with rich bone marrow. It just kept getting better.

On the side, we ordered what I would consider a real treat, Hen of the Woods mushrooms… one of the most (if not the most) delicious mushrooms in the world. Pan roasted in butter, the mushroom was crispy and steak-like… and on the money. We added the smaller Velvet Piopini mushrooms (also terrific) with a side of white grits (average) and found ourselves with just about everything we needed. House wines by the glass were spectacular.


So I am guessing by now you are getting the picture… this is amazing stuff. By this time we are 2 ½ hours in, but I am not bailing on dessert. I have come this far, I will not be defeated.

Dessert at craft is special. Sure, you can order Meyer Lemon Beignets, Chocolate Tarts… or Praline Panna Cotta…. but the homemade melt-in-your-mouth donuts along with a sorbet line-up that includes Rhubarb, Tangerine and Blood Orange is the bomb.

But if you want the real show-stopper, pass on all of it, and get a scoop of Brown Butter Ice Cream.

You heard me, Brown Butter Ice Cream. Holy crap.

Now that I have left my own body, it was time to pay the check and float home. Yes, it was a pricy night, but a special one. It’s not every week you get a treat such as this one… and spending 3 hours being pampered and fed like this, well, is just plain worth it.

I can be tough to please at times, but when I have a meal like this one, I feel a profound duty to tell everyone I know.

And now, I’ve told you.




Craft
43 E 19th St - Btwn Bway & Park Ave S
New York, NY 10003

212 780-0880

$$$$
Bring the plastic, you're gonna need it.

Frankie and Johnnie's: Old School In Midtown Still Works

Quit over-thinking your pre-theatre dinner, and make the rezo



If you are a steak snob, you may not want to read this.

There are good steak houses in NYC, and they don’t have to start with LU and end with GAR’S.

Case in point, my recent trip to the old tried and true “Frankie and Johnnie’s” on W. 45th, right smack dab in the middle of the theatre district.

Why? Well, curiosity I guess. The place has history you know…. the legend has it that it was a speakeasy that used the passwords “Frankie” and “Johnnie”. That’s good enough for me.

Truth be told the steaks are delicious and the space is old New York. Cramped and, well cramped. But you know, on a cold NYC night… it can wind up being just the ticket. Romantic and old school.

First, when you visit, don’t flip out that you have to climb a set of steep-ass stairs. When you open the door of the place, you climb up, check your coat and open the door… to realize that you are now standing in the kitchen. I thought to myself… “I like this place”.

We crawled into our tiny booth space and ordered a perfect martini, and average glass of wine, and two spectacular lump crabmeat cocktails. Being from South Louisiana, I am picky when it comes to shrimp and crab, and this was good stuff. One splash of fresh lemon and I was off.

My steak choice for the evening was the filet mignon with the lobster tail. The steak was cooked perfectly and melted in my mouth. The meat here is dusted in a house spice of salt and pepper (and a few others that don’t intrude) so you don’t need to do much. It was a great cut, cooked perfectly and went down easy.

The lobster tail I could have passed on… as it was of the frozen variety and was overcooked… but the crab was so good, I took a shot. Maybe not next time. I’ll never learn.

My companion had the ribeye and equally enjoyed. With a mountain of lyonnaise potatoes and a platter of average at best broiled mushrooms, we had enough to keep us happy until post-theatre coffee and dessert. There is a decent wine list, but the cocktail and glass of wine seemed to do the trick.

The verdict? Well, I like it. Is there a bigger, better steakhouse in the area?... sure. Could we have walked to another place in the freezing cold?... sure. Is there a better place to eat in the theatre district in relation to the Imperial Theatre? Likely not.

Go and enjoy old New York… get a crabmeat cocktail and a juicy steak… and for the hell of it, knock on the door and say “Frankie”.

You never know… someone just might open it and say “Johnnie”.



Frankie & Johnnie's ($$$$$)

269 W 45th St, New York 10036
Btwn Bway & 8th Ave


Phone: 212-997-9494
Fax: 212-997-6851

KOI: An LA Concept Continues to Wow NYC

But How Much Are You Willing To Spend On Sushi?



There has been a long standing argument between foodies in Los Angeles and New York over sushi. Sure, New York is the steak and Italian food capital of North America, and yes, Los Angeles has simply the best Mexican mom and pop joints on the planet…. but sushi?

Well, the argument can use Nobu as a measure, but truth be told, both cities have outstanding sushi options. The difference is in what the offering is….

As NYC has tried and true sushi and sashimi houses (and newer fusion-type stores, thanks Morimoto), our friends in LA were ahead of the fusion curve a long time ago. I credit much of it to the incredible strip-mall pioneer Katsu-ya in Studio City… and of course, Nobu… but honestly, there are numerous spots in LA that were on this bandwagon a long time ago.

This point is what makes my review of Koi an interesting one. Plain and simple, Koi is an LA sushi house, dressed in hip black clothes, making music in midtown Manhattan. Yes, I know...Koi IS STILL an sushi joint in Los Angeles today... but you must admit, it takes serious guts to open an LA joint in NYC without changing.... well anything.

The dead giveaway?

Well, without question, it’s LA’s most famous sushi dish, the Crispy Tuna Roll. By the way, if you haven’t had a Crispy Tuna Roll, stop reading this review and get your ass down there now. It’s that good.

Where did it come from?? Well, the famous roll is in fact a product of the previously mentioned “Katsu-ya”. What is it?

Well, first you combine fresh minced tuna with fine scallions and mix it in a creamy hot sauce to create a thick tuna mixture you can form into fingers.

Next, you take a same-sized finger of sushi rice, and actually “grill” it on an open fire BBQ, giving the rice a crispy, smoky flavor. You place the tuna on top of the rice and finish with a thin slice of jalapeno… and presto… you have the most popular sushi dish on the west coast.

So, true to form, before I even opened the Koi menu, I quickly ordered 2 orders (8 pieces total)… next time I’ll peek at the menu, since I had no idea that Koi charges $16.00 per order…. holy crap.

I’m being help hostage. But I need my Crispy Tuna Roll so badly, I’ll pay anything… and I did. Are they as good as Katsu-ya?... well, I think so. At $4 per bite? Uh, yea. What can I do?

As far as the other items of the menu, they are solid and expensive. As a matter of fact, it’s all expensive. And let me remind you, I’m not usually the guy who frowns on expensive meals… but there is expensive, and also “damn, that’s expensive”. I think it’s a perceived value thing. None the less, it’s easy to drop a few hundred dollars here for dinner and drinks for two.

So now that you’ve tried your Crispy Tuna Rolls, here is what you need.

The Creamy Rock Shrimp. Also a dish from LA in origin, it’s one of my favorites. Again, a creamy hot sauce coating hot, crispy tempura rock shrimp. Good stuff.

Tuna Tartare Avocado. Nice and light, with wonton crackers on the side. Nicey nice.

Sautéed Shrimp on California Roll. Spectacular. Exactly what you think it is, and to make it even better, order it on soy paper instead of nori.

Baked Lobster Roll. Also delish. Pace yourself at this point, there is more.

Cucumber Sunomono. Highly recommended as a meal and palate refresher as you travel from dish to dish. Sweet and sour bites of fresh sliced yumness.

Warm Baby Spinach and Mushrooms. A popular dish everywhere, this one is delicate and well done. Easy to share.

Spicy Seared Albacore with crispy red onions. Another Katsu-ya dish, that gets to shine here at Koi. Love these flavors, and the onions are the bomb.

And last but not least… dessert.

Order what you want, but I am partial to the Warm Asian Pear Bread Pudding with Maple Ice Cream, pomegranate and caramel sauce. Hell yea.

WARNING:

One thing I guess I should mention at this point is that you may need an attitude adjustment before you hop on over to Koi.

The place is ssss-wanky…. and you are reminded constantly. Arrive early with a reservation and avoid the jet setters, and you’ll thank me later. If you want to wait outside in line with a grumpy doorman while others eat your Crispy Tuna Rolls, well that’s up to you. Remember, I told you so. (Rezo’s are available through Open Table).

The verdict… I love it. How can I not? They have my Crispy Tuna Roll. But the truth is they really do all of it well, and it a hip and sleek dining room to boot. Just make sure your Visa or MC has some room on it, your gonna need it.

KOI

Cross Street Btwn 5th & 6th Ave
Visa, MC, AmEx, Disc

Hours
Breakfast
Daily: 7am-11am
Lunch
Mon-Fri: 12pm-2:30pm
Dinner
Mon-Wed: 5:30pm-11pm
Thu-Sat: 5:30pm-12am
Sun: 6pm-10pm

Serves
Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

craftsteak: Getting Better With Age

Low and Behold, Tom Colicchio's Meatpacking Gem Continues to Shine




At first glance, it's likely a neighborhood you wouldn't "stumble" upon. Tucked behind the Chelsea Market on a spooky block of 10th Avenue lies craftsteak, one of three quality restaurants located about 200 feet apart (Del Posto and Morimoto sharing the spotlight). It's an area of the Meatpacking District that doesn't get a lot of casual foot traffic.

To those of you who live below midtown, you are likely laughing at my geographical apprehension, but being an Upper Westsider, this block might as well be Siberia.

That said, for food this good, Siberia is nice this time of year.

Living in New York for more than 2 years now, I have finally graduated from my ethnic food binges to the real backbone of NYC cuisine... meat. From a dinner at Lugars to the history of a New Jersey Beefsteak meal, there is no doubt that New Yorker's celebrate a thick juicy steak like no other.

Lucky for land lubbers, New York offers just about every meat experience you can have. Swimming in butter, seared, grilled, baked, pan fried, bbq, raw and shish-kabob. From 114th to Battery Park, the city is brimming with, well, meat.

Entering craftsteak, you can't help but fall in love with the interior. The sleek, earthy, modern design tips you off that this is a place to be taken seriously... and that's exactly how I approached it.

The menu, a massive amalgamation of fresh oysters, aged steaks and creative sides, is frustrating in a sense you can't decide what you want. For some that is a good thing... for me... well, I wanted it all.

Painfully deciding to skip starters and salads, we went straight for the kill.... an aged NY strip, a grass fed ribeye. There are several Wagyu beef offerings as well, but experience tells me that this overrated grade of beef can be a waste of time and money when quality corn and grass fed steaks adorn the menu. I'll save the faux kobe experience for my next trip to Japan.

Now the dinner.

We found the steaks to be way above average. The corn-fed 42 day aged NY strip was tender and flavorful, with a slight char. The flavor of the aging was apparent, but not overpowering...as can often be the case. The folks at craftsteak slice the steak ala Lugar's for sharing, and idea I like.

As good as the strip was, the better option was the grass-fed, a bit milder but decidedly more savory selection. With a perfect amount of fat ribbon, this was a great pick... even at a $55 pricetag (ouch).

You can go nuts ordering side dishes. We ordered four... smothered collard greens, rosti potatoes, celery root puree and roasted Hen of the Woods mushrooms. The collards were as good as any I've had in South Louisiana, the rosti potatoes.. a hashbrown cake filed with caramelized onions was spectacular, the celery root light and delicate... and the mushrooms pan roasted crispy in butter. It made me want to order four more.

If his sounds like a lot of food, well it is. Remember, you get an outstanding amuse with a iron pot of chicken liver spread, as well as a mini-pan of delectable parker house rolls (I had an elementary school flashback). Coupled with dinner, a cocktail, a terrific glass of wine and dessert... and well, you just may need to loosen the belt a notch or two.


I can be hard on restaurants, but to be honest, I just couldn't find any faults in craftsteak. The atmosphere was delightful, the food fantastic and the service attentive and sincere. From the moment we hit the door, there was a confidence and welcome attitude that stuck with you. These are people who understand food and service, and it shows.

Are there better steak joints in NYC? Well, maybe. But for my money, craftsteak belongs in my top three.... a list that changes every six weeks or so.

It may look like Siberia, but with food this good... it's worth the trip.



Craftsteak

85 10th Ave, New York 10011
At 15th St

Phone: 212-400-6699

B and B Restaurante: Mario Takes Vegas

A Little Taste of Babbo on the Strip


I am one of those people who just love Vegas.

Years ago, it was about playing blackjack, staying up all night and people watching. As I grew older, it became more about eating at the world class restaurants and catching a great show. Ok, maybe a little blackjack....

That said, I have developed a gathering of spots in Vegas that have become favorites, and just getting back from the CES Convention, I have a new entry to the group... B and B Restaurante, in the Venetian.



This partnership between Mario Batali and Joe Bastianich opened quietly last year, but has been knocking audiences dead ever since. Classic and understated, those who know Mario's food will liken this spot to be a clone of Babbo, decidedly not Lupa or Del Posto. Of course for those who love Mario, another Babbo is welcome anytime.


For me, a trip to a Batali store is about the pasta, and B and B doesn't disappoint. The 5-course pasta tasting menu is very similar to the New York experience, witout the 30 day reservation requirement (I called the day before).

Upon arrival, we were sat quickly and greeted right away. We knew coming in that the pasta tasting menu was going to be the call, and instead of getting fall down drunk [airing each course with wine, we opted for a few quartinos of a Piamonte Barolo that was out of this world.

After a delicious treat of chick peas and black olive tapenande as a starter,









We were ready for the main event.... and it didn't disappoint.
The first course:

Ravioli with Bitter Greens in Brown Butter






This was outstanding. Light, fragrant, perfectly balanced mixture in very delicate pockets of pasta. Tossed in butter this was the perfect start.


Next was a very light and refreshing course:

Tortellini in brodo






I liked this course, although I though it may have been programmed strangely here. The pasta was handmade and very fragile... and the broth slow simmered and flavorful.


Next was a rich terrifc dish:

Cencioni with Pancetta and Walnuts







I loved this flavor combination, and the portion was just right. About this time, you start to realize that the small portions don't matter... you are filling up.


Next up was Mario's famous crowd pleaser:

Jose’s Pyramids with “Passato di Pomodoro”




This is a dish I had had at Babbo a few years ago, and loved. The little triangle pockets are filled with braised beef and tomato and are savory. This is a great dish and I am always impressed by the craftsmanship of the kitchen when these gems show up at the table.


Lastly, we asked our served to opt of of the goose liver ravioli (I'm not a liver guy).... the chef subbed this delicious item (and old stand by):

Black Pepper Pappardelle with Wild Boar Ragu




Rich, heavy and filling... this pasta was the perfect closer.





Desserts were delicious, but by the time I had finished the 5th course, there wasn't much room.... that said, I left B and B full, but not stuffed, which was a nice feeling. It would be easy to pack it in here and feel miserable all night. I prefer the small plates and array of tastes compared to a massive bowl of pasta that sticks with me for 3 days.

The skinny on B and B? Love it. There are now several Mario options in Las Vegas, but those who love Babbo will be happy happy here. Seats can be hard to come by on weekends, so call ahead.... The earliest table on the Wednesday night we visited was at 10:30pm.... ouch.

Da Umberto: Magic In Chelsea

After Your First Bite, You Again Realize That NYC Is The Greatest Restaurant City In The World


Before I actually lived in New York, I questioned if in fact New York was the best restaurant city in the world. I had traveled to London, Paris, Tokyo, Rome, Berlin and others.... and had lived in Chicago and Los Angeles... not to mention growing up 60 miles from New Orleans. But after moving to NYC several years ago, it didn't take long for the realization to set in... NYC is simply the best restaurant city in the world.

A constant reminder of this realization occured only days ago, as I visited a remarkable Italian restaurant... that in many cities would be considered "the best" in town. Of course in New York, it is "one of the best".

The spot?... Da Umberto, the classic destination in Chelsea. And surprise, surprise. This joint isn't owned and operated by Super Mario.

Simply put, Da Umberto is the type of restaurant that makes NYC great. It is unassuming, unpretentious, truly authentic and incredibly delicious. Here's the skinny.

Those NY'ers that are keen to tricks and gadgets will smile at the door of Da Umberto's. Why? At the door you aren't greeted by a hostess stand or stuffy waiter.. but a coat rack. That's right, your are in the foyer of someone's home, and that's how you are made to feel. Come on in.

After a glass of prosecco at the bar (thank you Rocco), we made our way into the middle of the deep, narrow dining room to find a spacious spot. The three of us settled in and began to try and figure out where in the hell those amazing smells were coming from.

With one of our party having a good deal of Da Umberto experience, he put the evening in the hands of our terrific waiter. The waiter suggested a menu of many tastes... a plate of mixed grilled and marinated vegetables (Da Umberto antipasto) with a sauteed jumbo shrimp in garlic cream and a smoky, grilled baby squid that was out of this world.


Next, a plate of sliced proscuitto (perfect), sopressata (one of my favorites), mortadella (simple) and chunks of aged parmigiano reggiano (very high quality, with some salty crystals lurking within).

Not to miss a sampling of pasta, we all received a small plate of remarkable bites... the first, a handmade mushroom ravioli topped with black truffle cream... along side a spaghetti with fresh tomatoes rendered in pancetta fat. Outstanding.

As good as the first three course were, the meats and fish to come were worth waiting for.

The veal milanese, pounded thin, breaded and pan fried was topped with a saute of cherry tomatoes and arugula. The sweet tomatoes and peppery arugula were terrific... but after one bite of the tender veal I realized the cutlet had been fried in pure butter. Wow.

Not to be outdone, my colleagues enjoyed a venison osso bucco... rich and tender over a bed of perfect risotto... and a whole roasted monk fish, grilled to perfection on the bone. Topped with lemon and thyme, the dish was truly authentic and tasted as good as it smelled.


Desert looked amazing... a cart of treats including a 10 pound bowl of tiramisu... a gigantic offering unlike anything I had ever seen. Next visit, I'll remember this and try and save room.

So by now you are likely getting the drift that I like... no love, Da Umberto's. When you combine terrific staff, feel, food and ambiance, it's hard to miss. No, this isn't a cheap night (think $60-80 per person without wine)... but the dinner tab will cost you much less than a trip to Rome. Of course, a few bottles of wine and you could fly coach to Venice, but I'll leave that up to you.

Additionally, you should be dressed. One thing I noticed was there were no slackers waiting for a table, and the crowd was dressed to kill. Nice.

Lastly, call ahead. This isn't a place you can just "drop in" on and get a killer table. This is a special place, so treat it as such.

When the holiday season rolls around, I take time to thank my lucky stars for the things in this life that make me truly happy.



Thank you Da Umberto's.... and may you have the happiest of holidays in this season of giving.

What A Friend You Have In Chesses

Tis the Season To Give The Gift.... of Cheese



So, gone is Thanksgiving. Time to dust of the box of holiday decorations, break out the Christmas card rolodex and start making lists.

About this time of year, every year, I start searching for unique, regional food gifts for friends and family. This year, I have found a wonderful option. Cheese.

My favorite cheese shop in New York is the one and only Murray's, and sure enough, there is a CHEESE CLUB at Murray's that will keep the love of your life neck deep in cheese for as long as you wish.

Additionally, they sell special cheese sets (american, italian, cheddars, etc), cool gadgets, apparel and other goodies. How cool is it to get a Fondue Kit in the mail, along with all of the cheese you need to get it going?!

But wait... there's more! Murray's also ships salami, nuts, oils, vinegars, crackers, toasts, chocolates, etc... not just cheese. I'd think if you have a epicurean on your list, you could make their head swim with all of the goodies you'll find here.

Plus: Great selection, top quality, beautifully presented and shipped

Minus: Expensive as hell, uh, expensive as hell. But it is Christmas, right?


CHEESE OPTIONS

Just as tasty and maybe even more trendy at the moment are our friends at Artisanal, the incredible cheese emporium in NYC that like Murray's, deals in quality stuff. They too have a cheese of the month club, and feature an even wider array of the stinky stuff. Throw in cheesecakes and breads and you have yet another killer option for those who need more than Hickory Farms on the table during the holidays.

Of course, if Hickory Farms is your thing, and by that I mean a nasty cheese crock and a beef log made of mystery meat, you can find them here. Just don't tell your giftee that I sent you there... although I loved that stuff at the mall when I was 12....

Need one last choice? Well, when all else fails, send them Gouda. Henri Willig makes award-winning gouda on his cheese farm, and you can get a 2-pound hunk of the stuff here. I've ordered several times, and love the stuff. Henri makes good gouda.

Need more suggestions? I'll be filling this page with juicy bits during the holidays so check back often. Next up?.... Chocolate!

Mail Order Magic

It's Time To Get The Goods For Thanksgiving


I love the holidays. I mean love love.

Why? I get to see my friends and family, take a few days off... and eat amazing stuff.

One tradition of mine that will never change is my obsession with food from home. Those years when I spend time visiting relatives in Pennsylvania or elsewhere, I arrange shipments of food to arrive when we do. These items usually include homemade Louisiana sausage (for grilling and the gumbo that follows Turkey day), boudin (the amazing "rice dressing" sausage that is good to snack on constantly), chickens stuffed with jalapeno sausage, jalapeno sausage bread.. and other goodies.

There are several places that are reputable, but I'll take this opportunity to share my favorite spots so you too can surprise your family this holiday!

BOUDIN and SAUSAGE, and TURDUCKEN

First, do some research. My favorite site to read about boudin is The Boudin Link, a site dedicated to amazing Louisiana Boudin in the Lafayette and Baton Rouge area. Some of the places on this list will ship, but if they don't, don't worry.... Bourque's will. This place isn't just great for boudin, but their sausage (pork and beef varieties are simply these best you'll ever eat) is out of this world. Also, this is where you get the stuffed chickens. If that isn't enough, they have great Turducken as well, if thats your thing.

Warning: If you haven't had a turducken, it may not be a great idea to order one and replace your Thanksgiving Turkey with it. Turducken is an acquired taste, and your first one should be on the side. This is a rich, rich dish... and as the name states, is a stuffed chicken, inside a duck, inside a turkey... all boneless.


To order these goodies, I suggest you order from these folks, in this order:

BOURQUES SPECIALTIES
Great boudin, smoked sausage, breads and stuffed chickens

TONY'S SEAFOOD
These guys ship crabs and crawfish in season, as well as the best boudin balls in the world

CAJUN GROCER
They have decent stuff here, but the quality can't touch Bourques or Tony's


Amazing Sausage Bread from Bourques










FRIED TURKEY

Years ago, this was a novelty that few people ate. Now, my friends in California and New York are experts. You can order Fried Turkeys online, but they just don't taste that good, as they are meant to be eaten warm and fresh.

If you live in the NYC area, you can get a fried turkey from the folks at JIVE TURKEY in Brooklyn. They have way too many flavors, but the cajun is good.

Of course you know, fried turkeys can't be prepared inside... under ANY circumstances. You can get a frying pot almost anywhere these days, so plan to get outside if you crave a delicious bird prepared in this fashion... most people I know only prepare fried turkeys, since they just taste so good.

If you plan to do it, here is what you'll need to do:


Cajun Fried Turkey Recipe

Ingredients

12lb turkey (no larger)
Chef Williams Cajun Injector Creole Butter Marinade
Creole Seasoning
3 - 4 gallons of oil (preferably peanut oil, or cottonseed)

Cooking

Remove giblets from turkey, rinse with warm water, pat dry (especially inside cavity) and leave whole. Drain cavity completely.

Inject 4 oz. of Creole Butter Marinade on each side of breast (you can order this from cajun grocer). Inject 2 oz. in each leg and thigh. Use about 16 oz. of marinade per turkey.

Rub Seasoning Salt on outside of turkey and on the side of cavity.

Set up the outdoor cooker.

Hold the turkey by the legs and lower (breast first) slowly (very slowly) into the oil. Make sure all of the water is drained from breast cavity before placing bird into the oil.

Deep fry in 3 to 4 gallons of oil at 300F for 3-4 minutes per pound.


EVEN BETTER

Sure you've had fried turkey, but have you fried a pork roast? Well, if you haven't, they are amazing. Here is a recipe for a pork roast, with marinade. If you don't want to make homemade marinade, go ahead and use the stuff in the bottle... it will still be great.

Materials/Ingredients:

A deep fryer made or designed to fry turkey's
Frying thermometer

Whole Pork Roast

Injection Mixture

1/4 cup melted butter or margarine
1/4 cup olive oil
1 tbs. garlic juice (your choice)
1/2 tsp. granulated garlic (not powder)
pinch of black pepper
pinch of cayenne pepper
3 tsp. brown sugar
1 tsp. Old Bay seasoning
Prepared Mustard (the yellow stuff in a jar)
Tony's or Old Bay Seasoning
Peanut oil to fry in

Prepare the meat:

Trim the roast leaving just a little fat on it.

Mix all the ingredients above except the Mustard. Bring mixture to a boil then let cool stirring every few minutes to release the seasonings. Draw mixture into an injector and inject the roast putting the needle as close to the center of each muscle as you can (doesn't have to be perfect). Rub the outside of the roast with mustard then sprinkle a little Tony's or Old Bay seasoning all over it. Put the roast in a zipper lock bag or in a covered bowl. Put it in the fridge overnight (at least 8 hours).


Preheat oil to 350ºF [Follow the fryer instructions - this oil will cook you if it hits you]. Cook about 8 minutes per pound.

Keep the oil at 325-350ºF, no more no less.

Take the roast out and put it in a pot on the stove with about a half inch of water in it. Put the fire on medium-low and let the roast loose some of the browning to make a small gravy. Turn the roast to get all sides. Do this at least 5 minutes on each side. Season the gravy with Old Bay and black pepper.



Slice the roast and put it in a casserole dish. Pour the gravy over it!


Enjoy your holiday everyone!

A Blue Ribbon For The Upper West

Don't Look Now, But There are Sexy Fish on 58th Street



For those of us “Upper West Siders” who are long time Blue Ribbon fans, the thought of the new Blue Ribbon Sushi Bar and Grill was too good to be true. Now that Bruce and Eric Bromberg’s terrific sushi spot is open, the bottom line is clear… quality Upper West dining comes with a price.

Don’t get me wrong, I understand that New York restaurants come with a price tag, but unfortunately this spot has a price that will prohibit a weekly visit.

That said, everything the Bromberg brothers set out to do in this store works. It is hip, fun, sexy and mostly delicious.

In NY, and especially the Time Warner Center area, your space needs to scream “cool”. This one does. With a bar up front, the long narrow space opens into a surprisingly hip back room… with a sushi bar jammed with 8-10 sushi chefs.

If Frank Lloyd Wright had been Japanese, this would have been his design. A mix of expertly crafted raw and finished woods, I couldn’t help but notice that there was a design connection between the space and the cedar sake box before me. It works.


For sushi purists, the menu is overwhelmingly spectacular. There are a jillion varieties of fish here, and fresh is the rule. Sure there is tuna, mackerel and amberjack… but you can’t always find Japanese snapper and orange clam lingering around a menu in this area. The prices are steep ($4 a bite, or a California roll with King Crab for $17.50) but you get what you pay for.

For example, my $9 spicy tuna roll was good (fresh fish, but not very spicy)… but for 4 tiny pieces, I thought ahead to my next visit with friends, thinking a large dinner for four would get expensive fast.

The early star of the show was easily the San Daikon, a three radish salad in a terrific ginger-miso dressing. We coupled this with one of the good-looking specials, a platter of rock shrimp tempura with spicy sauce on the side. The dish was ok, but would be improved a great deal by frying the shrimp about one minute longer, and tossing the hot crispy shrimp with the sauce and heaping them on a platter with something fresh on the side (cucumber would be perfect).

The rest of the menu can be hit or miss. Don’t get me wrong, there isn’t bad food here, I just feel that some dishes fall a little short.

Point in case:

For dinner I veered off of the sushi menu and ordered the salt and pepper shrimp, a dish that really showed me some of the limitations of the kitchen. Although the shrimp had good flavor, there was very little flavor on the shells… which were also very hard to peel. The manager made a point to make his way to our table and tell me I could (and should) eat the shells, but being from Louisiana and eating shrimp since birth, I know that one doesn’t digest shrimp shells easily. Let me cut to the chase… this was a platter of four medium large shrimp for $19.00. I wasn’t expecting a platter of ten, but for that price, they better be some bad ass shrimp. They weren’t.

In contrast, my companion stuck with sushi rolls and was happy happy. Again the freshness of the fish was front and center… and as you know, when you are dealing with fish of this quality, it’s hard to screw it up.


Blue Ribbon offers land lubbers several options here… a nice steak menu and their famous fried chicken… an option I may opt for when I return… and their desserts are simple if not underwhelming.

I would be remiss if I didn’t mention the incredible sake collection, both pasteurized and unpasturized. We ordered two boxes of unpasturized (recommended by our waiter) and loved the choice. There is also a good wine selection and cocktails of all shapes and sizes.

The skinny? Well it’s good. For those like me that aren’t high-end sushi connoisseurs, it’s just enough. For those who are into sushi, it’s a haven. For everyone, it’s expensive. But hey, this is the new Upper West Side, right?



photos by Robert K. Chin

Del Frisco's: Closing The Gap to #1

Don't look now, but Del Frisco's is quietly kicking some steak ass in Midtown.


You can’t slam a joint for not being from New York.

As much as I’d love to throw rocks at Del Frisco’s, the massive, gleaming 6th Avenue meat factory, I can’t. The fact is… expensive as it may be, the food is downright terrific.



Case in point: a recent lunch at Del Frisco’s.

First, the setting is ridiculous. This place doesn’t have one or two floors… it has three. With three bars. And an escalator. A first floor that resembles an airport hanger dressed in mahogany, an beautiful upstairs with view of 6th Avenue… and a quieter underground with cozy tables where you can close that all important business deal.

Let’s get one thing out of the way. I like a place where you can blow $100 on lunch, as well as get a burger for $13. This is that place. And believe me, the fantastic $13 Prime Beef Burger with skillet potatoes is as filling as a steak, or anything else you might get… so don’t feel guilty. I’ve been preaching about the filet tips and mashed potatoes on the bar menu for 2 years now (yes, they are still there for $10), but the burgers are worth the trip.

That said, the steaks are superb. I found the 10oz ribeye with chateau potatoes tender and perfectly cooked ($27) as well as the Filet Mignon tips (melt in your mouth) with pasta ($19).

There are decent seafood options here in tuna, scampi, salmon and scallops… but the steaks are front and center and deservedly so. The sides are large enough to split between 2 or 3, and on a recent trip I enjoyed a platter of steak cut, hand dipped onion rings… as well as buttery mushrooms.

If you don’t feel like fretting over the menu, there is a business lunch special for $29 that includes a salad and choice of filet mignon or salmon. The hot, crispy loaf of sesame bread comes free of charge.

Dinner prices are a bit steeper, but the quality doesn’t disappoint. On this menu you’ll see the nighttime debut of a bone-in veal chop ($39), porterhouse for two ($99) and prime lamb ($39). A delicious Osso buco also makes an appearance, with fresh lobsters and various seafood offerings. Any of these sparkle with a side of creamy Maque Choux Corn, a recipe more often found in South Louisiana than midtown Manhattan.

Generally, all of the side dishes are terrific, and the wine list is above average in quality and value.

So, why isn’t Del Frisco’s at the top of every list?

Several reasons.

First, the service can be uneven. They often try and oversell here, and they don’t need too. It’s easy enough to run up a hefty tab here without feeling guilty for missing dessert, so back off.

Next, this is not a New York dining experience, as the place seats about 500 people. It is big, loud and noisy… and tourists and businessmen on expense accounts call this place home.

Lastly, it’s not a native New York steak joint. Sounds crazy, but this town is loyal to its steak-shrines. Let’s get over this and enjoy some good eats, shall we?

Del Frisco’s. Now you know. There’s good meat on 6th Avenue and for once, it isn’t coming from a food cart.

Telepan: Is This The Best Of The Upper West?

Lacking Attention to Detail Can Turn a Good Thing Bad




I think I know why the Upper West Side gets a bad wrap.

The fancy schmancy food isn’t very good.

Actually, let me correct that. The food can be OK. There can be good value here. There is tradition.

But more often than not, food and service on the Upper West falls short.

I don’t want to generalize this realization, as I know some UWS spots are headed in the right direction. But after a visit to one of the “best” UWS spots, I was left disheartened.

The Story Begins

My visit to Telepan was greatly anticipated. I know of the reputation, have read the reviews, yada yada. All that is fine and dandy, until I get my chance to kick the tires. That’s when I know the real score.

Well, the visit to Telepan, nice and full on a fairly busy Wednesday evening… started fine. I waited for my colleague at the bar with a nice glass of champagne, and marveled at the well appointed dining room. If “Design Within Reach” was in the restaurant business, this would be their place… trendy green paint, box lights and all. It was comfy and cozy, if not a bit bright (turn down the lights a touch?).

From there, the evening started to drift downhill, as once seated getting someone, anyone, to serve us a drink or take our order was getting to be a problem.

I’ll leave my service gripes for a moment and talk about the food.

Both my colleague and I… lovers of trying as much and many as we can, both opted for the tasting menu. This decision was a fairly high priced one for the UWS, especially with wine.. but what the hell. This is supposed to be one of the best spots in… well, in NYC. So, I’ll fork over the cash.

Here We Go.

The amuse bouche was nice, but seemingly out of whack. The mini three-taste presentation included a crispy pancake-like bread (very good), carrot soup (ok, bland) and salmon tartar (fishy and average). Hmmm.

Our apps fared better, but not by much. My fried Blue Prawns should have been reworded “Blue Prawn”… a single medium fried shrimp on a plate over a basic bean salad. Being from Louisiana, this was an average fried shrimp… the variety I would tuck into a shrimp poboy and devour for lunch. The other dish, their famed “Egg In A Hole” was better, but still lacked an oh my god moment. The brioche was delicious, the mushrooms ok.. but overall just OK.

The mid-courses looked amazing, and we had a hard time choosing. Unfortunately, both choices were bad, as both dishes disappointed. The “Cauliflower with Black Pepper Noodles” was lacking distinction… meaning the dish had no center. No buttery finish or creamy sensations… just a cream based pasta dish with very bland cauliflower. The noodles packed no punch.

The other dish, a promising lobster Bolognese also fell short. Nicely presented, it also lacked flavor and richness in a tasteless broth. I understand wholeheartedly that the chef is going for subtle and fresh here… it just didn’t get there.

Lastly, the entrees were hit and miss. The Heritage Pork plate, complete with a loin, belly, shoulder and bacon piece was tasty… alone. The collards that accompanied were a good idea, but again the dish fell out of balance as I searched for something a bit more acidic on the plate. Perhaps a bottle of pepper vinegar for the collards would have done the trick. That aside, I like this dish…

The other dish, the organic lamb, was just plain overcooked. When asked if a rare piece (uh, maybe a juicy cut that is also tender?) could be found, the answer was just… “no”. Not exactly the answer you are looking for when you spend good money on food you believe will be expertly prepared.

And You Are Who?.....

Which brings me back to the service on this evening. It was nonexistent. The dishes we never presented by the server, but rather the busboys, who really knew nothing about the dishes. Our waiter stopped by on occasion if we flagged him down, otherwise we were on our own. There was no “how are things?” or “can I get you something”… it was gone with the plates and here comes the next course.

As far as the wine is concerned, going with the tasting was a mistake. Our sommelier seemed very knowledgeable… which is good, unless he is making two fairly informed wine connoisseurs feel like kindergarteners. Even when presented with wines we weren’t particularly fond of, we were told why they were great, and he poured. Shame shame.

Note to Telepan patron: We could have done a much better job from the list, and actually enjoyed what we drank.

And last?

Dessert was dessert.

I hate writing this blog, as I love living and eating on the Upper West Side. I love my corned beef from Artie’s, I love the steak frites at Nice Matin, I love my flat sesame bagels from Tal. There are good eats in our neighborhood… and a few institutions that can present terrific meals.

But on this evening, Telepan wasn’t one of them. Was is good for the UWS? I guess so. Can it compete on the level of food and service with a joint down in the village. Uh, no.

But I guess that’s ok...as I don’t want to give this area a bad wrap.

I mean, this is the Upper West Side.

Find My Egg Rolls: Win $50

An Addiction to Frozen Eggs Rolls Leaves A Blogger Desperate



Someone once said that you could find anything in New York... and if you couldn't, it wasn't worth having.

I beg to differ.

I am addict. I'll admit it. My addiction is anything wrapped up in a pillow of dough or wrapper... and steamed, baked or pan fried. The dumpling, pot sticker, ravioli, pierogie and egg roll.

But what makes this addiction hard to deal with is the difficulty in obtaining the goods. Sure I can find a box of frozen egg rolls in the grocery store, but as those who share my addiction will attest, there are very few brands worth putting in your cart.

The king of egg rolls? Easy.

The brand is Michelina. The man is Jeno Paulucci. The magic?

Yu-Sing brand, Chicken Egg Rolls.

Those junkies out there that know egg rolls, may know Jeno. He is one of the most famous frozen food entrepreneurs alive. The son of Italian immigrants, Jeno began his incomparable career as a fruit stand barker in the 1940s, paving the way for him to begin his improbable Chinese foods company Chun King. He would go on to create Wilderness pie fillings and Jeno's Pizza. Yes, Jeno's pizza rolls! He would later open Michelina's, a tribute to his mother... and by far, his best venture.

But make no bones about it, the Yu-Sing brand Egg Roll is the best egg roll on the market today (this is coming from yours truly, a frozen egg roll connoisseur). If this was vodka, we'd be talking the Ketel One of Egg Rolls (compared to the current Chung King variety, which I would liken to a bottle of Popov).

If you hadn't had these gems, I would liken them to crack cocaine. Why?

They're perfect. The wrappers are super crunchy and never greasy. The fillings are great, and not full of some nasty paste made of cabbage and mystery meat. They are large in size and not tiny like the inferior and generally disgusting egg rolls on the market.

I first got addicted to these about 6 years ago. Living in Southern California, I had a terrible time finding them in LA (Albertsons would carry them on occasion, but rarely). Having a cabin up in the mountains, I would make the trek to Lake Arrowhead several times a month... and always stop at the terrific gourmet grocery store "Jensen's" to pick up my wares for the weekend.

Low and behold, they carried the egg rolls.

I bought so many boxes, the manager made sure he reordered in time for my next visit.

Imagine a shopping cart with fresh pasta, breads, San Marzano tomatoes, asparagus, peppered brie, ground veal, cornichons and 10 boxes of frozen egg rolls.

So here is your challenge. Find these egg rolls. Win money. I need my Yu-Sing.

Here are the rules:

1. First person to email me (amika3@aol.com) with the location of the egg rolls wins. Egg rolls must be in stock at the store when I arrive. Price doesn't matter, I'll pay anything.

2. The brand must be Michelina's YU-SING Chicken or Shrimp Egg Rolls. No others will qualify, period.

3. The egg rolls must be located in Manhattan. NO EXCEPTIONS!

Can you find them? No doubt, some Mom and Pop grocer carries them in NYC, so off you go. I know you could use the $50.... hell, thats an appetizer at Per Se!


Get Your Pierogie On

Moving to NYC, I was thrilled to learn that a thriving polish community would allow me to feed my pierogie fetish. Growing up eating cajun/polish food, I fell in love with pierogie at a young age, but almost never ate them.. as my polish grammy lived in New Hampshire.

Over the years I have learned how to make them myself... a rewarding but long process, that leaves you with a sore back. 8 hours in the kitchen can do that.

A few years ago, I did find an alternative.... mail order. And as much as it pains me to say it, these little babies are as good as any I can pick up in the East Village. If you don't believe me, order a few dozen and see for yourself!

Who?
Pierogies Plus
http://www.pierogiesplus.com/

Where?
Online, from their little shop in Pennsylvania

Why?
One word. Helen. She's been making pierogie for 50 years. And these guys make them by hand. This is the real deal.


What?
I've never been a potato pierogie guy... my variety is sauerkraut and mushroom. She also makes a terrific sauerkraut and kielbasa. I understand the hot sausage is quite good as well!

How?
Order online and wait. They come fresh, to your door. Then, get out your non-stick skillet and heat it up. Add a chunk of your favorite butter, and place them in. Fry the pierogie in the butter, turning them until they are crunchy golden brown on both sides. Salt and pepper, a dollop of sour cream and Katie bar the door.


Fall Is Here, And You Need Your Gumbo

Yes, fall is finally arrived in the big apple, and it's soup time.

Well, at my house, that means gumbo and a hunk of crusty bread. For those of you who have no idea how to make a pot of real gumbo, I am re-publishing the recipe for you here. Remember, this recipe may look big, but having a quart of the stuff in your freezer on an icy day is a good thing.



Andre’s Gumbo Like I Like It

(Shrimp and Okra Version)

4- 5 Quarts Chicken Stock
4 pounds frozen okra
1 lrg can of diced tomatoes
1 regular can of diced tomatoes
2 large white onions, diced fine
3 tablespoons vegetable oil
1/⁄2 teaspoon chopped garlic, fine
1⁄/2 teaspoon salt
1/⁄2 teaspoon black pepper
3/⁄4 cup all purpose flour
3⁄/4 cup vegetable oil
3 tablespoon of lea and perrin’s
2 tablespoons crystal hot sauce (or frank’s)
1 1⁄/2 tablespoons of creole seasoning (Emerils or Tony’s or your own)
2 bay leaves
1 teaspoon basil
1 teaspoon oregano
1⁄/2 teaspoon thyme
2-3 tablespoons Kitchen Bouquet
Salt and pepper to taste
1 cup chopped parsley, fine
4 pounds peeled medium shrimp
Chopped green onions

In a separate pot, heat 3 tbl vegetable oil, and sauté white onions. Add garlic, frozen okra and tomatoes, season with salt and pepper, and cook over medium low heat until tender (at least an hour, if not longer). Okra should be very tender and want to break up. In a large stockpot, heat oil (3/4 cup) and add flour to make roux. Stir constantly over medium heat, making sure not to burn. Bring to desired color… peanut butter color is recommended for best flavor. Once desired color is reached, whisk in chicken stock, 4 qts first and save the rest if needed (chicken base dissolved in water can also be used , but NOT bullion). Add seasonings (wet and dry) and kitchen bouquet for desired color (a rich, dark brown is perfect). Add okra mixture and bring to boil. Reduce to low simmer, and cook for 1 1/⁄2 hours. Last half hour, add shrimp and parsley and simmer and very low temp, not to overcook shrimp. Serve in bowls, topped with a scoop of cooked long grain rice and top with sprinkle of green onion.

Gumbo is best if cooked day before. Make sure to cool completely before storing in fridge.... if not, the mixture will bubble and MUST be thrown out, as the onions will certainly turn.

*** Tips on Making a Roux

More than anything else, it's the roux that gives gumbo its particular character. Making roux is something of an art. It may take some practice to get good results. If dark specks appear, or if you smell something burning, you'll need to throw out the roux and start over. Don't try to base your gumbo on a burnt roux!

That said, let's make a medium colored Cajun roux, peanut butter in color. A Cajun roux is just flour cooked in fat until it acquires a darker color and a rich, complex, somewhat smoky flavor with nut-like overtones. Some folks have claimed that one can make a roux in the oven or even in the microwave, omitting the fat, but the one true way is to cook the roux on the stove top in a deep, heavy skillet or Dutch oven. The catch is that it will take plenty of time to cook the roux at the proper temperature so that it doesn't burn, and that you will need to stir constantly, working pretty hard the whole time. Some use a large whisk or a large spatula to keep the roux moving, but I find that a large, long-handled wooden spoon works best for me.

The choice of fat does affect the taste of the gumbo. Lard and bacon fat are the traditional choices (sometimes blended together), but other animal fats, or even vegetable oil or shortening, may be used. I prefer using a good vegetable oil. The choice of fat may be influenced by the kind of gumbo you are going to make -- duck fat for a duck and sausage gumbo, for example. You may decide to use vegetable fats for a seafood-only gumbo, and animal fats for your other gumbos.

Regular bleached all-purpose flour is fine for a roux. The proportions of flour to fat vary depending on how thick you want the roux to be. Approximately two parts flour to one part fat works well for me. If I need about a cup of roux, I use a cup of flour and about half a cup of oil, perhaps increasing the quantity of fat by a tablespoon or two depending on the result I'm looking for that day.

Toloache: Can Good Lead to Great?

There is promise, but little time for this midtown newcomer


First things first. New York is short on good Mexican restaurants. Period.

This is not an observation, but unfortunately a fact. While there is many a place slinging messy burritos, there are few places in the city that can give you a memorable dining experience in this genre. You know it to be true (and don’t be bringing your Rosa Mexicano all up in this).

Alas! Toloache enters the fray.

When I first heard of Toloache I reacted like most…. hmmm, a mexican place in midtown, and worse, in the theatre district. Here comes Chi-Chi’s.

But after a good deal of research, I learned that this effort was honest, and that a great deal of attention had been given to this launch... from design to menu. There is hope!

And then, I went.

Where Toloache actually falls is kinda in the middle of what I had hoped for…. either a killer baja taco joint, or an exquisite regional Mexican restaurant (think of Frontera Grill or Topolobampo in Chicago).

Let’s look at the good and the bad.

First the good.

There is genuine effort here, and it shows. The menu is eclectic, the dishes well made and the space functional.

The bad?

It is waaaaay overpriced, even for midtown… and there is little subtlety in the creation of dishes that could very easily go from OK to amazing. There is very little balance here.

The real question facing the owners and kitchen is will Toloache make the small, detailed changes that flips good restaurants into great ones.

The menu itself is more sexy at first look until the dishes are explained. It’s then you learn that the taco plates (priced from $9 - $14) are actually two small, 2-bite baja-sized tacos. Even as an appetizer portion, ouch.


I love love love the idea of a fresh guac bar, but at $20 for 3 small bowls, don’t come hungry. The guacamole is well made and inventive, but the scarcity of the guac itself is a shocker when sharing with a party of 4. They need to rethink this one.

In my opinion, the main course dishes are somewhat out of balance… taste wise. My highly recommended and wonderfully tender Carne Asada, a grilled grass-fed skirt steak with and inedible potato gratin, bland guacamole and incredibly overbearing mole cheese enchilada was a dish gone wrong. I find it hard to imagine screwing up a dish when you start with such a great cut of meat… but the sides on this plate were so out of whack, I literally ate the steak and left the others. A fresh mixture of citrus-based sides with a well seasoned starch would have been just fine with a great cut of beef… what I got was a mole so strong I could smell it when it left the kitchen.

The Enchiladas De Pollo, with dried fig mancha manteles salsa, green apple salad and various mexican cheeses seemed to have a better basic recipe, but still lacked the wow factor I was looking for. It looked to be a large, filling choice… but if you are looking for a value plate of Mexican stuff, you should locate the Chevy’s a few blocks away.

The “Carnitas De Lechon” brick oven roasted suckling pig with habanero-sour orange salsa, cactus avocado and chicharron salad was thought to be the most exciting prospect of the evening, but again fell short. The dish was aggressive in gamey pork flavor, an aspect the other ingredients couldn’t overcompensate for.

Again, the intentions here were good… the preparation not so good.


I don’t want to discount what Toloache is doing here, because some of it is cool. Although the room itself (downstairs and up) is cramped and tight, this would be a great after work meeting place for a margarita and a few small plates… including the avocado or cactus fries. The guac bar is a cool addition. The open kitchen is full of energy. The design is hip and appropriate.

That said, the bar has it’s failures (a $10 frozen margarita is tasty but expensive for what looked like a lime slurpee in a cocktail glass… and a tequila shot came in a wine flute) but can be fine for an app and cold beer.

The verdict?

Refine. Look at the dishes. Adapt. Attention to detail… including taste and textures. The food is coming through this kitchen at such high speed that there is no way anyone is doing any type of quality control. Tweaks to the basic menu as well as an upgrade in service will in me over.

Until then, I’m still looking for a decent baja taco joint.


Toloache
251 W 50th St- Btwn Bway & 8th Ave
New York, NY 10019

212 581-1818