Around The World in 80 Days

André is Back In The US And Has Stories To Tell




First, I guess an apology is in order. As some of you may know, I am producing the worldwide and domestic broadcast of LIVE EARTH on 7.7.07, and the workload and schedule of this project hasn’t allowed me the opportunity to contribute to this blog as often as I wish… so I’ll use this opportunity to talk about world travel and eating across the globe.

Not to ignore New York or LA where much is happening on the scene…. In New York, where the Dept of Health continues its post-Taco Bell rat rampage, some of the city’s more famous spots continue to shutter...and then reopen. The NYC scene is the most vital and everchanging in the world today, so I would suggest you hit www.eater.com to stay on top of it.

In LA, where the newest Pinkberry location shares headlines with the stargazing at the insanely popular Mozza, the scene is heating up. Culver City is becoming a destination (did I actually say that?) and West Hollywood continues to blossom. While the new Katsuya may be the sexist joint in LA, this is a town where the new Dougboys location gets the same amount of press in the blogs.

Traveling around the world the last few months have been a culinary eye-opener for me… as I revisited several of my favorite spots, and discovered new gems. To try and keep these thoughts somewhat organized, lets blast through the world in an orderly fashion, shall we?

THE UNITED KINGDOM

Getting There:
My airline of choice remains Virgin Atlantic, where even a coach seat feels more special than some business class trips I have been on. On Virgin, Premium Economy is now the deal of all deals, as these seats have been exchanged for wider, more comfy reclining seats for a slightly higher price, and Upper Class… well, it’s simply the best class of service in the air today. Is there another airline that offers flat beds with duvets, order-at-will meals, a fully stocked bar and in flight massages? Thank you Sir Richard Branson.

What’s Great:
The pub scene remains unchanged, although a smoking ban is on the way. Still, is there nothing better than a plate of fish and chips with a cold pint in a pub that’s been around for 200 years? I think not. Sure, the Indian food remains the best in the world, the Chinese food in SoHo is killer and the mini celeb-chef community (Brian Turner, Gordan Ramsey, etc) continue their dominance, but the sum of these parts still equal a rather boring and lifeless scene compared to NYC, and Tokyo. Maybe this will never change.

What’s Not:
The money situation. Already expensive hotels and restaurants are now insane, thanks to the Pound dominance over the US dollar, now nearly 2-1. Broken down this means your taxi ride from Heathrow into the city will cost you $100 US dollars, a decent lunch $40 and a pint of beer $7. Ouch.

Final Thought:
Not much has changed here in the last 10 years, other than the giant wheel on the Thymes and the decline of the dollar. Do yourself a favor and hit Spain, where the scene is a bit spicier. Hell, Paris may be a better deal these days.

SOUTH AFRICA

Getting There:
A number of airlines fly into Johannesburg, but again I recommend Virgin from London if you begin this trip on the other side of the Atlantic. The red-eye flight from London is smooth, and waking up with your feet on South African soil is cool as it gets.

What’s Great:
Jo’berg (as it is referred to) is one of the most evolving cities in the world today. Known for its natural beauty, extreme poverty and renown crime streaks, the city is bursting at the seams with creative expression… evolving from a society now free of apartheid. The warmth of the people in South Africa is infectious, and their climb to become recognized as one of the world’s great destinations is inevitable.


Not knowing much about South African food, I was lured to “The Butcher Shop”, one of the more famous eateries in the country, at Nelson Mandela Square. Having been told that the beef would be some of the best I had ever eaten, I was skeptical…. I mean, I live in NYC.. give me a break.

Well, I stand corrected. This restaurant serves the best steak I have ever put in my mouth.

The secret? A small farm outside of Jo’berg that raises the cattle. The aging process. The preparation. Flawless. I’ve had Argentinean beef, Kobe beef, USDA Prime. Forget them all. This is the real thing. On top of the astounding quality of the meal itself, I scarfed down a large steak, giant baked white sweet potato, asparagus, 2 glasses of wine and desert for $37.25. And that was with a generous tip. Amazing.

What’s Not:
Well, there are many things not great, although signs point to continual improvement. The poverty is obvious as you drive through the city. The poor line the streets in affluent neighborhoods selling wares and cooking food on the sidewalks for those who work for the rich. Safety is a concern. Like in all cities, you need to be careful in Jo’berg as the areas change quickly.

Final Thought:
As I was leaving South Africa, I was already thinking about a return trip. For all of the problems here, the people and natural beauty are too much to overcome. There is a love of life and enduring spirit here that makes us pause in thought… this is the place where we evolved as humans (Maropeng is an hour north, where many believe is the birthplace of man). Humans shares over 99% of the same DNA… and nowhere is this more evident than South Africa… where you feel part of one human race.

GERMANY

Getting There:
Take your pick. Americans can fly from the US into many Germany cities (I was in Hamburg). Inter-euro flights on airlines like Easy Jet are cheap and fast. Train travel may be the most efficient in the world, next to Japan.

What’s Great:
Well, I have a soft place in my heart for Germany, and it’s mainly the street food. Yes, the wiener.

Is there anything better than walking up to an immaculate streetside kiosk, and ordering a hot, grilled bratwurst with mustard and crusty roll? Or a currywurst, in its sweet and tangy sauce? I think not. Forget German restaurants. I’m thrilled drinking cold German beer and eating off of the street.

Did I mention that Germany is clean? Having been to Berlin many times, my first trip to Hamburg was a completely different experience. This is one of the greenest cities on the planet, with lush, leafy trees lining nearly every city street. The inland lakes are stunning, and the Hamburg residents take every advantage of their natural surroundings by crowding beer gardens and cafes from morning to night.

Oh yea, you can buy just about any shoe on earth here. Hamburg folks dress to impress and love their shoes. Not to mention this is the birthplace and home of Nivea, so skincare and cosmetics are a big deal, too.

What’s Not:
Where Germans in Hamburg are polite, they are not downright friendly like the Italians or Polish. Don’t expect to get invited into someone’s house for dinner. Additionally, our friends in Hamburg don’t cater to english tourists. You’ll rarely find menus in english unless you are in a touristy area, and that’s if you are lucky.

Final Thought:
It’s all about the sausage. And the cigars. Yep, you can find good deals on Cubans here, so remember to take the bands off when you walk them through customs. Germany is a wonderful place to visit, but this isn’t one of those trips you begin looking for people with your same last name in the phone book or pretend you are apartment hunting. Enjoy and move on….

JAPAN

Getting There:
I prefer ANA Airlines. The folks at ANA may have the best service in the air, and the business class cabin looks like someone’s apartment. It’s that clean and nice. And you get cool ass Japanese slippers, too. The seats are built into beautifully crafted wooden encasements that include privacy dividers. The seats are comfy, even for those of us of large girth, and the food is terrific.

What’s Great:
Well, Japanese service. I’ve said for many years that Asian hotels set the world standard in service, and I still believe it. My stay at the Hilton Tokyo wasn’t the Park Hyatt in terms of opulence, but was terrific in it’s own right.

The other thing that makes Japan remarkable is its ability for the ancient and modern to coexist side by side. Make no mistake about it, Japan leads the world in technology and they use it in all facets of daily life, including urban planning. It’s fascinating to watch the millions of people in Tokyo move effortlessly through the city, and even more amazing to stumble across a Buddhist Temple a block away from a Starbucks.

Food wise, Japan is loaded with what you might think… sushi and noodles. My favorite dish, Tonkatsu, or a fried pork cutlet with steamed rice and Japanese pickles, is such a staple that there are outlets in the city that serve only that dish. There are still street side robato bars with tender, marinated grilled meats as well as steamed buns filled with sweet red bean paste. But believe me, there is more to Tokyo than traditional Japanese fare.

American and Euro-styled cooking is hot in Japan. Four and Five star restaurants abound in the city… and now more than ever, young upcoming chefs are traveling to Japan to craft their trades.

What’s Not:
Well, being from North America, jet lag still remains the #1 challenge of a trip to Japan, closely followed by the overwhelming amount of non-english signage. Did you see Lost in Translation? To top it all off, the longer then life airplane trip over is followed by an hour and a half train trip to the city from Narita Airport. Ouch. Lastly, as easy as it is to find people on the street who speak English in Europe, it is equally as difficult in Japan. You’ll be fine in tourist areas, but veer off the beaten path and you are on your own.

Final Thought:
I simply love Japan. From the modernist buildings and amazing hotels, to their ties to ancient tradition, this is a country that everyone should visit, if only once. Once the most expensive city in the world, Tokyo is now somewhat affordable… opening the doors to many who are now making it a destination of a lifetime.

CHINA

Getting There:
Good luck. It’s so far that no matter who you choose, your butt is going to be on fire by the time you get there.

What’s Great:
My trip to Shanghai was an adventure. I had been to Hong Kong, but let me tell you, Shanghai is about as different from Hong Kong as two cities can be.

Shanghai is the fastest growing business hub in the world today. In fact, 1/5 of the world’s construction cranes are in Shanghai. It’s taken Shanghai to build as many buildings in 12 years as it took NYC to build in 40. The buildings in Shanghai are unlike any you have ever seen… incredibly modern, gleaming structures, that look like a hybrid and Manhattan and Las Vegas. Really.

The hotels in Shanghai range from just OK to downright fantastic. The Westin Bund, a 10 minute stroll from the famous “Bund” walk, is an incredible facility with what I firmly believe is one of the best breakfast and lunch buffets in the world today. Imagine a buffet scattered throughout an opulent, lofted hotel lobby, that includes every item in an American, English and Japanese breakfast… and then add Chinese dumplings, steamed buns, noodles, tender pork, chicken, well you get the picture. Unreal. We ate for 2 hours.

Outside of the hotel, the experience is one of a kind. Walking the streets of Shanghai, vendors wok noodles and veggies on the sidewalk, shopkeepers water their produce and salesmen hawk cheap wares and cigarettes. I visited one of the most expensive restaurants in China as a special guest, and was rewarded with a setting that resembled a palace from the Ming Dynasty… almost like a movie set. While the food was delicious, the meal of my trip came later in the evening (or about 2:30am in the morning when the restaurants are still doing business) when I ate the best salt and pepper crab I have ever tasted in my life. Did I mention the pork dumplings? Wow.

By the way, the stuff I bought on the street was 1/10th the price of the hotel and airport shops. Do some street shopping and you’ll be well rewarded. I filled a bag with goodies and had spent $11 bucks.

What’s Not:
Getting around ain’t easy. Additionally the airport is an hour out of town, and in the middle of nowhere. Do yourself a favor and arrange a pickup from your hotel before you leave. Also, hailing cabs can be tricky, as the color of the cab usually dictates the expertise of the driver. Consult your hotel staff before you start hailing cabs off of the street in Shanghai. Believe it or not, many have no idea where even some simple places are located (or at least they pretend not to).

Final Thought:
Go. Go to China. They love meeting Americans, and they love selling their wares. Also, many of the misconceptions you may have about the far east will be put to rest. China has much to offer the world, and we should all be connected with their society as 1 in 6 humans live here. This is a fascinating culture, and I continue to understand more and more about them on each visit. Here is your opportunity to do the Olympics and visit an amazing place.


BRASIL

Getting There:
Any way you can, that doesn’t include a flight on Delta, the worst international carrier on the planet. If I meet one more 60 year old flight attendant, I’m going to jump out of a window.

What’s Great:
Well, Rio starts and ends with its beaches. The beach life here is hard to put into words, as life itself revolves around the sand on Copacabana, Impanema, Leblon and Bahia beaches. They hit the sand at dawn and remain until the wee hours of the morning, when they go home, take a nap, and repeat. They love life and enjoy simple pleasures.

Food in Brasil is rather straight forward… its all about meat. Churrasaria Porcao remains the favorite of the locals in Rio (you can find locations in NYC and Miami as well) but recently, more international friendly if not upscale restaurants have been stealing the headlines. That said, you can get the cutting edge fusion food anywhere, so why not embrace the meat? When in Rome.

What’s Not:
Well, it’s hard to look at the window from the ride into town from the airport without a lump in your throat. The poverty is so overwhelming, you can’t imagine anyone living in those conditions. Brasil has a long way to go to elevate their social classes and they know it.

Additionally, traffic is a major problem here, and continues to worsen. As the population grows, the roads continue to crumble… meaning that city leaders will need to take serious measures, and soon.

Final Thought:
Rio is unlike any city in the world. The terrain is special…and the city rests within the steep cliffs and green mountains of what you could call a visual paradise. Even though crime continues to be a real problem, you can have a safe and enjoyable trip as long as you stay in main areas and surround yourself with lots of people.


***** Do you know about Live Earth? To learn more, logon to www.LiveEarth.org and watch for our shows on all of the NBC television networks on 7.7.07.

News and Notes from NYC and LA!

With an hour to kill and a dirty martini, André is back in business....


First, an apology for the hiatus… your food-sleuth has been traveling the world, working on new projects… which means new scoop for you!

Note: in the next six weeks, your beloved blogger will personally visit restaurants in London, Johannesberg, Hamburg, Tokyo, Shanghai and Rio, so get ready to read about some crazy eats!...

What’s the latest in NYC and LA?



NYC
In Case You Missed It……. Chumley’s, the famous speakeasy in the West Village nearly imploded. The much-loved fireplace caved in, as did a few walls, and now the place is closed for repairs. Insiders tell me this could take 6 months….. Morandi may have weathered Bruni, and garnered a star… but honestly, the food is just so-so. It’s a loud, hey-look-at-me type of room, and those who want to nosh on really good stuff usually leave disappointed…. Speaking of Bruni, the feud between he and Chodorow may have died down, but the Kobe Club will still be the victim in all of this. The overpriced, slightly scary Disney-esqe steakhouse seems to be floundering a bit as their weeknight business continues to slip (you’ll find me across the street at Quality Meats)… and word has it that Chodorow has already begun concepting replacements for the spot, which has a locale that could really work, if they can get the concept right…. As you may have read, this blogger was pleased with the food at Café Gray recently (but not the service), and is very excited that Landmarc has opened in the Time Warner Center…. Finally, a place to eat that won’t set you back 2 Gucci wallets and a Coach purse….. Super-Mario has opened B & B at the Venetian in Las Vegas, and my dinner there last week was superb. What is it? Think 20% Lupa, 60% Babbo and 20% Del Posto, and then take Babbo prices and double them. This is Vegas, remember? By the way, longtime Vegas favorite Delmonico hasn’t slipped an inch, and continues to serves the best steak in sin city…. (I suggest you check out the newer restaurants at the Venetian next time you are there)…. Speaking of Vegas, the Aladdin Hotel is no more, and has now been officially replaced by the Planet Hollywood Hotel and Casino. Sure they spent millions on the refurb, and put a Pinks Hot Dog Cart next to the slots, but with high end dining consisting of a PF Chang’s, this will be the last you’ll hear of them on this page (but thanks to the casino, as I left with $250 of their money)…. NYC’s spot for best wine dinner “Cité” has officially closed… as has “Aegean” on the UWS…. (do I smell another Bank of America branch?)… this just in, New Yorkers have found Garrett’s Popcorn, the legendary Chicago mainstay (outside Penn Station)…. Trader Joe’s continues to gain customers in NYC, and the wine prices are driving local wine shops mad…. Tribeca Tavern will be serving up BBQ on the weekends for a while…. Funky LES hotel THOR is having severe kitchen problems with the exit of their chef(s)… let’s hope they can remedy that, and add something new down their, as the neighborhood couldn’t he hotter….

LA
The LA scene is a buzz with the rumor that Jonathan Morr may bring Bond Street to the Thompson Hotel… Culver City’s “Fraiche” is off and running, and my visit on a weekday night was met with the pleasant surprise that the locals have been waiting for another hip spot (other than Ford’s) to open and serve edible food…. Does anyone else wish that Barefoot on 3rd Street had better food?.... my best meal of the month award goes to “Katsuya” in Brentwood…. Being a longtime fan of the Ventura Blvd outlet, I was skeptical on my visit… and have come to realize the following. Are the prices nearly double? Yes. It the menu better? Yes. Do they nail the crispy tuna roll? Yes. It the décor better? Yes. Will I go back and drink swanky cocktails? Yes. Nuff said... I have a full review coming next week. In the valley, McCormick and Schmicks seems to be doing gangbuster business in their newer Burbank digs… but I found their service profoundly lacking compared to their other stores, and the food was average on my visit as well… and note to management: during crab season, try and serve some crabs, you ding-a-lings.....another Le Pain Quotidien has opened in LA, this one across the street from my pad on Robertson and Burton Way…. a welcome neighborhood addition, the place was buzzing the moment it opened…. Does anyone from LA actually eat at The Ivy?.... Did you know JetBlue serves Dunkin Donuts coffee? Now only if they could get my plane to land on time… and finally, when the hell will Osteria Mozza open? I am a loyal guy, but month-in-advance reservations for the pizza place next door is ridiculous... you are printing money in NYC, call the bank already....

Focus on LA: Locanda Veneta

The Old Beverly Hills Standby Just Gets Better




If only every neighborhood had a Locanda Veneta.

On assignment in Los Angeles, I find myself a leisurely 4-minute walk from this Beverly Hills gem… and believe me, I couldn’t be happier.

It was only 4 years ago when I lived in Los Angeles, and was use to making the trek over Coldwater from the Valley to have a meal here on occasion… but living in the Valley then I didn’t have a chance to visit with any regularity. In the coming months, I have a feeling I’ll be in once a week.

Locanda is the quintessential neighborhood spot. A small, well appointed room… friendly, almost family-like staff… and terrific food.


The room itself is shockingly small, but quaint. The front door literally drops you into the dining and kitchen… as the talented kitchen can peek across a ledge into the bustling busy dining space. I’ve always been amazed at how a kitchen this compact can dish out a menu this robust… and they still amaze. It takes some serious skill to be able to pull this off this well night after night.

The details at Locanda Veneta are a given. Upon being seated, you’ll find a creamy bowl of pesto spread and a basket of fresh crusty bread… but it’s the wine and daily menu that have brought the crowds back for years.

On this night, I started with a bottle of Row 11 Pino, priced slightly higher than I anticipated… but happily consumed. Row 11 is a real find for those of you who search for Pino Noir values at retail… and I highly recommend this wine. Go find a bottle of the 2004… it should run you about $34.

For an appetizer I ordered a dish of mild, crisp polenta cakes topped with caramelized onions and sautéed shrimp. The dish was well prepared and nearly perfect. The balance of the corn powered polenta with the sweet onions and buttery shrimp make a great marriage on the same plate.

My main course fell from the evenings off the menu selections… parpadelle pasta with lamb ragu. This dish was simple and flavorful and just what I expected. Solid, filling and just right.

We also dined on delightful beef carpaccio as well as their nearly famous gnocchi, both of which were well received.


In the day and age of “let’s get to the newest joint in town”, it’s easy to overlook those who have been punching the clock seemingly forever. If you haven’t been to Locanda lately, make a trip over. It’s wearing well and still delivering great bang for your buck… wonderfully prepared Italian fare with the feeling you’re dining with friends.


Locanda Veneta
Italian

8638 W 3rd St, Los Angeles 90048
At S Willaman Dr

Reservations at OpenTable.com

Café Gray... Taste with an Attitude

Delicious meets Pretentious at Time Warner Center


To Visit Andre's blog: Fork LA, CLICK HERE!

The weather can make us do crazy things.

It was a gray, snowy, cold Saturday… and all I could think of was a good, hot meal. But not in my kitchen. Nope. Somebody else’s.

Café Gray, a spot that has been on my “get to” list for months was the call. OpenTable showed an early 5:30 rezo, and I snagged it. Dinner and watching the snow fall over Central Park. Good stuff.

So off I went, on the #10 bus heading oh-so-slowly towards the TW Center in just plain nasty weather. A little shopping, a little walking… and a nice dinner for 2.

Here is the skinny.


I know the dress is dressy casual (or so they imply), but don’t be fooled. My nice, casual appearance at the restaurant was met with a snarl… as suits and dresses seemed to be the order of the day. Did I mention there were women in furs? Hmmmm. No PETA folks at this joint. Uptight.

The person who sat us was nice enough, and the “waiter” (hard to qualify here, as you are serviced confusingly by many) was uber-nice. The rest of the staff was almost unbearable.

But wanting the experience to be about the food and not the people, we focused on dinner, which before 6:30pm is offered in a “pre-theatre” prix fixe. This was fine, but I really wanted to see the full menu, and almost felt as if they were happy we’d be gone by the rush (which was hopefully coming later, since the restaurant was nearly empty). Whatever.

The good news is that there is excellent food here, and not at astronomical prices (as compared to the rest of the establishments here at the TW Center).

The three course menu for $62 was a good choice, and the portions are filling.

There is an unspoken push here by the waiters to get you to order the house favorites on your first visit… and after eating them, I can understand why. They are full-proof, and sure enough, here I am sitting here telling you just how good they are.

The first course I selected the Risotto, with wild mushroom fricassee. The presentation was nice… as a warm bowl of risotto is gently placed in front of you… accompanied by a silver bowl of mushrooms, swimming in a delicate cream, which is promptly spooned over the top of the risotto. It is every bit as good as it sounds, and if in fact I were a waiter, I too would be suggesting. Other options included a Crab Salad, a gnocchi dish and a Bibb salad… but after seeing a few these surface from the open kitchen… I think I made the right choice.

The main course I enjoyed is also considered a specialty of the house… the Braised Short Rib of Beef.

This short rib… braised for over 24 hours, is melt in your mouth incredible. Served over grits with a meaux mustard sauce, the dish is aromatic and delectable. This is rich stuff mind you, but the beef is so tender, you’ll have problems getting it onto your fork. This is one of New York’s better dishes.

When dessert rolls around, you are getting fairly full…. but when there are options like caramelized Key Lime Pie (very good, but not my first choice) you find room.

The selection here, by far, is the sampling of homemade ice cream and sorbets. The silver dish comes with some 7 servings, and is incredible. Homemade coconut, pistachio, vanillas, chocolates, caramels, raspberry… you name it. This is just the right portion and sweetness to accompany your espresso before your comfy cab ride home.

So, as you can tell… I like the food.

It’s the snobby floor managers, sommelier and reception folks I can do without.

If they are reading, let me lend you this advice. The true greatness of Café Gray is the fact that this menu and price point is an approachable option for those who want to step up from Bouchon Bakery but not flip for a Per Se. Quit wishing you had a job at a nicer restaurant and start making your patrons feel wanted. The setting alone is spectacular enough to sell the experience… the overwhelming sense of high-brow bullshit is out of place here and got tired in 10 minutes.

You can make up a mediocre meal with this type of service approach… but you can also kill a great meal with an overbearing sense of being. Back off. Perhaps Alain Ducasse will be hiring soon.


Photograph by Kenneth Chen.


Cafe Gray
10 Columbus Circle- At 60th St
New York, NY 10019

212 823-6338

Not Worth The Ticket

Grand Central Oyster Bar Sadly Disappoints




Let me first preface this blog by saying that no one wants to be blown away by a restaurant more than I. When a restaurant gets it right… the food, the service, everything… it makes me downright giddy.

I’m not that hard to impress.

The Oyster Bar in Grand Central just blew it.

I was excited about this visit, as a kid born and raised in South Louisiana, I know seafood. I know fish, I know crab, I know oysters. This was gonna be good.

But from the moment I hit the door, the evening started heading south.. and there was simply nothing I could do about it.

At a glance, the place reeks of nostalgia. First, how freaking cool is it to have a seafood joint in the train station, steps away from the tunnels and tracks? Only in New York.

I wandered in a few minutes before the rest of my party arrived and checked it out… a large dining room packed with hungry folks… a lunch counter straight from 1955 with a few scattered diners slurping down chowder, a cozy back room and bar packed with couples and an oyster bar with able onlookers enjoying their cold beer and pan roasts.

The excitement was building. One of a kind, I thought.

But when I hit the hostess stand, it ended. There I was greeted by a few pretentious “I wish I worked for Mario” employees that would send the evening south in a hurry. The attitude was horrific, and I paused and wrote it off to a long day, or something else… as I know this business. I have owned 2 restaurants myself, and have hired dozens of hosts and hostesses. They all have bad days.

But as hard as I tried, it didn’t matter. Someone should call and let them know that this isn’t Alain Ducasse, but a seafood place at the train station. They were simply rude.

When my buddies arrived and we were seated, the Big Cheese from the host stand wandered over to the table.

On this night, I was dressed in nice slacks, a crisp white long sleeve polo, a tie, and matching baseball cap (my calling card)…I listened intently.

“Sir, would you kindly remove your cap,” he asked.

“Am I offending someone?” I replied.

“It’s our policy,” he said.

“I’m the only person here wearing a tie. Are you sure I can’t keep it on?” I pleaded.
“You need to remove it,” he answered.

“You are aware we are in a train station,” I replied.

“We happen to be surrounded by a train station, yes,” he stated,

So, I removed my cap… which I don’t mind doing, when appropriate. But give me a break… this is a train station. There is a drunk at the counter on his 8th beer. Whatever.

About this time the confusion began. The table was approached by not one or two, but three different people asking what we may want to drink, or start with from he raw bar.

“Hi, are you our waiter?” I asked.

“Uh, we kinda all are,” he replied.

Hmmmm. I smell a mandatory employee meeting coming on.

The first dish to arrive we a pile of nearly inedible steamed clams. Gritty and smelling like they were pulled out of the water a month ago, the were a bomb at the table and enjoyed by no one… a real disappointment, since several diners had their hearts set on this dish.

Next was the chowder, a thick and creamy New England style bowl that was quite good. Not good enough to make the trip for, but certainly good enough to order when there.

We did order a tray of oysters, which arrived shortly after the chowder. These too were fine, but at 2 and 3 dollars apiece, may be the biggest rip-off in the city. The varieties are amazing… Whitecap, Penn Cove, Kumamoto, Eld Inlet, Willapa Bay… and the list goes on and on. But the server didn’t know enough about what makes them different… just the sizes. And where I come from, an oyster is an oyster. You want it fresh, cold, a bit salty, and firm. There really just isn’t any other kind.

And oh yea, in Louisiana, you can often get oysters for .25 at the bar.

I know we aren’t in Louisiana, but 3.50 an oyster? Shame shame.

Next was the main course, a New England lobster, steamed with the trimmings.

I wish I could boast on how the lobster saved the night, but the truth is any idiot can steam a lobster, so as you guessed, it was just fine. Certainly overpriced and undersized, but fine none the less.

So, heartbroken, I write this blog. From the exterior, I love this place. The look, the idea, all of it. It would be a place that I would bring out-of-towners. But with overpriced, uneven, mediocre food, I just can’t, knowing that I run zero risk of embarrassment somewhere else.


The Oyster Bar in Grand Central is known for it’s budget lunches and pan-roasts, which I admit are cooler than cool… and maybe that’s how this place was built to be enjoyed. But when you plop down a huge chunk of change for bad to average food, attitude and uneven service, well it leaves a bad taste in your mouth.

Kinda like the clams they served.




Grand Central Oyster Bar

Lower Concourse
AmEx, DC, Disc, MC, Visa

Hours
Mon-Fri: 11:30am-9:30pm
Sat: 12pm-9:30pm

Serves
Lunch, Dinner


Photos by Noah Kalina

One Damn Fine Burger

This Juicy Burger Would Make Whimpy Proud



Greetings Foodies!

Your able epicurean is away this week on a west coast food tour (yes, Chez Panisse and French Laundry reviews to come)… but I wanted to pass along this review to tide you over!

Is NYC’s tastiest burger in the armpit of midtown?

It just may be.

Last week, I made my first visit to Burgers and Cupcakes, the silly idea of a restaurant on 9th Avenue, between 35th and 36th.


It was crowded at lunch, but I managed to find a table and grab a menu. The seating is simple… find a table, tell the lady what you want,… and she brings it.

The place is smallish as you might expect… and seating is somewhat cramped. Minor details when hunting for a good burger.

The menu is simple and straightforward. Pick a burger…. beef, turkey, chicken, vegetable, mushroom, salmon, tuna, lamb, venison or ostrich (by the way, if you order anything other than beef or turkey, you may be in the wrong restaurant). Choices abound.

The burgers plain are 7.95…. not cheap. Toppings like every cheese under the sun, or grilled onions, mushrooms, peppers, chili… you get the picture… are a buck extra. So, load it up, and it’s gonna run you 10, 11 bucks. This is New York, remember?

The good news?

They are worth it. Size wise, this isn’t a huge burger… think medium, old fashion soda fountain size. Not a Fuddruckers burger, but not tiny either. The meat patty itself is thick, but sits on a fairly normal size bun, not unlike the kind you might pick up at the grocery for a burger you would make at home.

The buns themselves are not toasted or grilled, because they are super fresh and soft.

The burgers and moist and juicy… grilled to order on a flat griddle. Coupled with fresh toppings, a soft bun and a layer of grease on the bottom (this is the real flavor is it not?) you get one damn fine hamburger.

Fries here make me happy, as they are taken seriously. The fresh cut potatoes are twice fried (once an hour ago, and again when you order them) making them crispy delicious. They do offer chop meat chili cheese fries, but as I am already asking for a heart attack of major proportions, so I thought I’d prolong my triple bypass another week or so.

The cupcakes are good, but nothing to write home about. They are nearly 2-bite cupcakes, making them mini-cupcakes in my book. Tasty, but not as nearly impressive as the burgers. Basic flavors include vanilla and devils food… but move past these for the chocolate peanut butter marshmallow, chocolate raspberry truffle or lemon meringue.

Final take?

Worth the trip for a nostalgic, yummy burger. If you are in the neighborhood, certainly worth the effort. It’s a familiar taste… one that either your grandmother or local drugstore may have first introduced you to.

Lucky for us, grandma has a joint on 9th Ave.




Burgers and Cupcakes
458th 9 Ave
NY, NY 10018
(212) 643-1200

Kellari Taverna: Superb Greek in Midtown

This Greek Is Really All That



If you are like me, several nights a week you stare at a stack of menus, or go online to figure out what’s for dinner.

Exhausting.

Italian? Chinese? Thai? Sushi? What the hell.

For some reason, I often forget Greek food, or even Lebanese…. two of my favorites.

This leads me to this week’s review of Kellari… the place I almost forgot about.

My recent visit was on Valentine’s Day, a simply wonderful day to visit. Sure, the restaurant had a special menu for the special day, but also offered their regular daily menu for those of us who just want to eat the good stuff, without the obligatory “prix fixe” cuisine. The hand delivered roses were a nice touch by the management, too.













For me, Greek and Lebanese/Mediterranean food is all about the mezes. I usually load up on a table full of these treasures, and leave the entrees to others. Really. By the time I am finished nibbling on 8 small plates of food, I’m about done.

The good news here is that the meze are out of this world.

What can I recommend?

Before anything hits the table, you are presented with a tray of homemade hummus spread (terrific), pickles and cucumbers. Just right with that pre-wine cocktail you just ordered.

The rest?

The tzatziki, their version of the well know garlic/cucumber/yogurt dip… is outstanding. Creamy, cold and rich…. it is nearly a meal in itself, and is accompanied by a basket of fresh-out-of-the-oven pita bread. Crazy good.

The fava beans in roasted tomato reminded me of the same dish I enjoyed in Crete only a few years ago. Tangy tomato with just the right herb infusion, with perfectly cooked fava beans (with bite and no mush).

The house smoked feta with honey was also terrific, as were the dolma (vine leaves filled with lamb, rice and raisins)… but the show stealer was the katsikisio…. in Greek, that’s warm goat cheese baked with apricots and almonds. This dish convinced us that these guys really know their stuff.

The mistake of the night was ordering dinner. Already full at that point, our curiosity got the best of us, and the whole fish was begging to be roasted.

So, we ordered their house specialty… any whole fish (many to choose from), that are scaled and filleted to order, and grilled over charcoal.


Was the fish good? Yes. But I need to add an asterisk to this remark, as I had a slight problem with the fish.

Being from Louisiana can sometimes be a curse when it comes to seafood, as I was spoiled from a young age. This means that any… and I mean ANY piece of fish I eat, just can’t smell or taste like, well, fish.

So when the fresh roasted Red Snapper (not Gulf but imported) came to the table, I had a feeling it might have a slightly stronger fish taste that I prefer, and I was right. It did.

For most, this is a taste they know and don’t mind. The fish was expertly prepared and presented, and by the looks of others around us, enjoyed by all.

I passed.

Desserts looked astounding, but honestly I was still full from the meze… but I did indulge in a cup of Greek coffee… which I highly recommend. Sure, it’s sludge, but the stuff tastes great, and reminds me of Istanbul. Go for it.

So the verdict?

Aside from my fish experience, the place is absolutely wonderful. It’s a sleek, modern and tasteful room, with attentive staff and a generally good vibe. The food is excellent, and fairly priced. I’m still trying to figure out how I scored at table at 7pm here on Valentine’s Day.

My remedy for strong fish will be ordering on of the many tempting meat dishes on my next visit. This food is just too good to let one fish get in the way.



Kellari Taverna
Greek

19 W 44th St, New York 10036
Btwn 5th & 6th Ave

Ted's Montana Grill: Pretender?

Get Ready. There is Bison in Midtown.


Ted Turner has bison. And a ranch. And CNN.

So, last week when I visited Ted’s Montana Grill in Midtown, I expected the works. Antlers, stuffed heads, Indian-inspired rugs, big screen TV’s beaming Wolf Blitzer, you name it.

The place was, well, not what I expected.

So what did I find?

Well, at first glance the wood-clad room looked about like any other Bennigans-like establishment, smallish and without most of the kitsch, except for the singular, gratuitous bison head. The place was simple, and exuded nearly zero personality… which is just fine if you are making your statement in the kitchen (I hope this is the plan).

My visit to Ted’s was a hamburger mission, and I wasn’t going to be denied. It had been weeks since I had a good hamburger, and I had heard that Ted’s had a good thing happening with the bison burger…. so here I was.

First, getting a table at lunch is a problem. The prices are in that “it’s just a hair to expensive but what the hell” range, that spells trouble when it’s 10 degrees outside. That kind of weather is certainly worth another $5-$8 dollars of consideration. So, we wait.


Our midweek noon encounter was a packed one, with seemingly nobody in charge. We did receive the vibrating remote (thank you Olive Garden), but were later greeted in the bar by a wait person who told us to ditch it, as she would find us a table. Hmmm, I smell an employee meeting coming on.

After she sat us in a strangely covert way, we were greeted by a slightly insane server who quickly made sure we had enough beer to get through the wait of actually ordering and eating. Job well done.

Let’s hop to the food.

First, the bison. If you like good, meaty tasting burgers, you will like bison. It’s not a gamey taste (which I can’t tolerate), it’s a big, meaty one. My burger, cooked medium well (order on notch higher than usual says the waiter guy) was moist in the middle, and crunchy-charred on the outside. Yum.

The bun (nearly as important) was of the Kaiser roll variety, and also held its own. It came with a little grease on the bottom, but hey, who’s complaining. That’s flavor in the burger world.

The fries (extra $$) were cold and average, a disappointment when you consider that these guys try to take hamburgers seriously.


The rest of the menu features chicken grilled sandwiches, apps (we had an OK stack of onion rings) and steaks of the bison and regular beef variety. Daily specials look good, as did the soup of the day which we tasted… a yankee-styled gumbo that was good and hot, but not very authentic. A better bowl can be had at Cosi (no, really, Cosi).

Desserts fair much better, and the Apple Crisp looked downright yummy.

So the verdict?

It’s just OK, which can be the kiss of death in this city, where mediocrity can mean papering up the windows. But with the need of burger joints in Midtown, Ted’s will likely survive. I enjoyed my burger, and it hit the spot… just not the memorable one. I may be back from time to time, but I won’t be opting for the vibrating remote… I’ll be moving down the street where the wait isn’t quite as long.

Time to cab over to Hell's Kitchen for chicken and waffles.




Ted's Montana Grill
American (Traditional), Steakhouses, Wild Game

110 W 51st St, New York 10020
Btwn 6th & 7th Ave

Phone: 212-245-5220

In Case You Missed It: February 07

News and Notes You Need To Know



First, Happy Valentines Day!

If you thought the only folks happy about the holiday of love were the blokes at Hallmark, think again. Just about every reputable restaurant in NYC is taking reservations up the wazoo... wishing every month had a Feb. 14th!

That said, here is the latest from the plate, just in time to pick up the phone and find you'll be eating at 5:oopm, or 11:30pm.


Say It Ain't So
Word on the street is that Cité, my favorite wine dinner spot in NYC, and possibly one of the best deals on earth, is closing. Something about a lease, blah blah blah. This means, if you like to drink, I mean, really drink.... you'll need to get over there in the coming weeks and indulge.

I Like The View
Is there anything more romantic than watching ice skaters glide across the Rockefeller Plaza ice? Sure, but I gotta tell you, tables underground on the glass at The Sea Grill ain't bad. Valentine's Day provides a Prix Fixe dinner for $88. that includes Sevruga Caviar and a Lobster Risotto, as well as Veal Cheeks for my land lubbing friends. You could do worse.....

Surf and Turf for $75 Bones?
Sure. Nick and Stef's has the deal on the 14th, which also include raw oysters (I think this is good for the date) and a frozen Raspberry cake for dessert. Worth consideration.

Opt Out and Knock Her Socks Off
Why fight the crowds when you can order in? Fresh Direct will show up at the house with a sweetheart of a meal that includes a Double Cut Filet Mignon with twin Lobster Tails or a Gruyére Fondue, killer appetizer and Molten Chocolate Cake for between $69 and $99 bucks. When you consider the cab, flowers, etc... this and a netflix evening could lead to some real romance....

Because You Need It
If you are a coffee freak like me, you need the Capresso Team Plus S coffee maker. The machine, that grinds fresh beans and brews at the optimal temp (which nearly no other coffee maker does) delivers the hottest, best tasting cup of coffee on the home market. For those who own this machine like I do, time to upgrade to the Capresso Coffee Team Therm! Basically the same machine, with a thermal carafe to keep your joe in the 180 degree range for several hours. At $299., the machine is a steal, as the burr grinder in the baby is worth that price alone....

Forget The Diet and Eat King Cake
Since I was a kid, I've been eating King Cakes, and one of my favorites is now on the web... direct from New Orleans. Order the Pecan Praline filled with Cream Cheese and celebrate Mardi Gras with us coonasses.

It's Mardi Gras.... Eat Like You Mean It
I rarely pimp my cajun brothers and their food, but if you haven't had the Jalapeno Sausage Bread and Stuffed Chickens from Bourque's, you haven't lived. Click here, call Shannon and tell them that Andre at ForkNewYork sent ya. The ship it all, and the may be the best sausage makers in Louisiana. Really.


Quick Bites......
How amazing are the Garden of Eden stores in NYC?... The Chelsea store blew me away over the weekend, and sells the best tortilla chips I have ever eaten (in the brown paper bag with the window)..... Chelsea Papaya dogs are just as good as Gray's and a hair cheaper.... "Lupa" has expanded their hours, and are now open ALL DAY... so, forget the lines and go have a late late lunch without the crowds....why haven't I been throwing chicken wings in my convection oven my whole life?... the owners of ForkNewYork favorite "Bin 71" have opened a new joint "Barcibo Enoteca", a few blocks away on Broadway on the Upper West... similar menu, but a large, expanded Italian wine list awaits.... splurge on the Schaller and Weber Black Forest Bacon on your next Fresh Direct order, you won't be sorry.... does anyone do the Atkins Diet anymore?.... I understand the burgers at Ted's Montana Grill are tasty, and plan to see for myself next week.... did Whole Foods really stop selling lobsters because of cruelty?... has anyone visited their pork department?..... the "Dirty" Brand potato chips sold all over NYC are actually "Zapps" potato chips, made in Gramercy, Louisiana and marketed under the "Dirty" chip name.... watch for a future Tuesday profile of mine on "Midtown Lunch", one of NYC's better food blogs..... speaking of blogs, this blog was recently linked on Eater.com, and has been added to BlogSoop.com as well as Digesty and others..... when is the last time you had a bowl of Oh's! Cereal?....

The Bar Room at The Modern: Art in Motion

Great Food In A Great Setting.... Is There More?


There is something amazingly clever about eating at a museum.

For years, I have loved eating at museums… in Europe (where the food is just downright great) and in the US (where the food can sway between terrific and a sandwich shelf at 7-11).

Eating at European museums usually means that not only will the food be artful, tasteful and fun… but so will your surroundings. Like at the Café at the Louvre in Paris, or the Picasso Museum… or perhaps the wonderful café at the Van Gogh Museum in Amsterdam. Of course half the fun is looking at the design of the plates, forks and glasses… but somehow these places also deliver delicious foodstuffs at reasonable prices.

MOMA in New York is no different, and has a charming café to have a salad or sandwich and a glass of white wine… but more tempting is The Modern, their fine dining destination on the ground floor.

Carved into two dining areas, The Modern brings museum dining to a new level. Chef Danny Meyer has made sure the food is terrific, and the setting does the rest.

My visit was on a Sunday evening, and my guest and I dined at a table in The Bar Room… the larger of the two dining rooms, as well as the more affordable.

The menu in The Bar Room is divided into 3 sections, the first two being starter plates (think tapas size) and the third being the entrée page (with the portions being more half entrée size).

If you are a big eater who lives for Chinese buffets and 2 pound Stouffer’s Lasagna, this may not be the spot for you.

Being a large guy myself and decent eater, I found the portions to be fine, and the flavors to be remarkable.

Off of the first page of our menu, my guest ordered a wonderful salad with triple cream goat cheese… and I had the grilled shrimp with green cabbage and gruyere.

Well I have to tell you, both dishes were spectacular. The salad was delicate and flavorful, but the shrimp dish was the standout. The shrimp were smoky and grilled perfectly, and the cabbage salad was superb. We both thought that if this was the level of taste we had arrived for the evening, this was going to be one heck of a night.

Unfortunately, the next course of homemade country sausage (for her) and wild mushroom soup with chorizo ravioli (for me) brought us back down to earth.


While the sausage was good, it was nothing spectacular, and honestly not as good as the homemade variety I might nab of the Halo Berlin Cart in midtown. The soup was a light, broth-like puree that was big on taste and very good… but was paired with a fried, dry chorizo stuffed ravioli… a complete and total mystery. Even on it’s own, the chorizo bites were not very good, and this is coming from a guy who eats sausage like I am expecting to have a heart attack any day.

The savior of the meal was the third course, which brought us back above the bar. The wild, horseradish-crusted salmon was incredible… resting in a foam of sweet Riesling. My sirloin au poive came with fluffy pan-fried spaetzle, tossed in a brown butter cream. Wow.

The wines are expensive and are available by the glass, and cocktails creative and well mixed. Deserts looked terrific with a nice selection including beignets, sorbets and cheesecakes… but alas, there was no room at the inn.

So final thoughts?

I like it. Lunch may present a smaller bill, but truth be told, this is fairly good value when you qualify this setting, at the world-renown MOMA. If you are looking for a wonderful meal at less-than-The Modern prices, The Bar Room is for you.

Just come early for a glimpse at a few Picasso’s. It makes for an exquisite evening.


The Bar Room at The Modern
The Museum of Modern Art (MoMA)
French, American

9 W 53rd St, New York 10019
Btwn 5th & 6th Ave




Photo proudly swiped from Robert Presutti for The New York Times.

Bouley: The Magic Is Alive and Well

From the moment you walk in, wow.



I often preach that a terrific dinner in NYC is more than food.... it's an experience.

With that thought, I give you Bouley.

Bouley, the gift from Chef David Bouley, is just that.... an experience. From the moment you walk through the apple-lined foyer into the "Hobbit" inspired dining room, he's got you. Your senses are now on overload, and your taste buds are anticipating something special. David Bouley then delivers.

Epicureans have a love-hate relationship with David Bouley. While most agree that the food is superb, they look for other cracks in the armor. Service, price, wine, etc..... take your pick. But with an experience like mine, I can't help but think that the critics are really missing the point of this restaurant... a complete experience that serves as a journey to someplace else. A place where the delicate nuance of an herb or palate cleansing sorbet is delivered as a violin would deliver a melody within a symphonic performance. Perfection.

First, the environment.

It's everything you may expect in a restaurant of this caliber... but better. Sure, there are crisp, white tablecloths... but the rooms are warm. Once through the door, the right dining room is cream and white... a brighter contrast to the left dining room. This room, full of sloping arches... is colored in rich crimson, making for an appetizing backdrop. It's charming, magical and romantic... all at the same time.

Even though my large party agreed on a universal tasting menu, make no mistake... any experience here will include special touches from the kitchen. Canapés, sorbets and amazing breads, carved tableside.

The front of the house certainly hold their own. Attentive service. Expert wine advice. Full water glasses. They know the drill.

As the surroundings command attention, the food at Bouley is truly the star. A fusion of French-American cooking, there is simply no heavy-handed anything at Bouley. Delicate flavors are the rule here, and Chef Bouley raises the bar almost laughingly in this area. His amazing tuna appetizer with shaved fennel is perfectly balanced, his Maine lobster with mango, artichoke and Serrano ham dressed with a tamarind dressing... adorned with fresh coconut.

This is just plain fun.

Entrees run the traditional range from fish, to fowl, to lamb and venison. But these selections are far from the norm. Where can you taste Black Sea Bass in a Sea Scallop crust? Or a lamb filet baked in a Black Truffle crust? Well, at Bouley.

There are cheeses to reset the courses if needed, but special effort should be made regarding dessert. As I am not one who usually makes it to dessert, I implore you... make the effort. The Vanilla Rice Pudding is remarkable, as is the Chocolate Banana Tart... but it's the Valrhona Chocolate Soufflé that steals the show.

Note: If you are thinking of proposing to your girlfriend, order one of these and pop the question. Done deal.

My final take?

Bouley is simply on of the best restaurants in NYC. In a land of sterile, often bland dining spots with robotic service, Bouley does something remarkable. He opens the door, welcomes with a smile, and quietly knocks your socks off.

That's worth the price of admission in my book.



Bouley
French, Wild Game

120 W Broadway, New York 10013
Btwn Duane & Reade St

Daniello's: Best Pizza on the Upper West?

It's true... this pie is the bomb.



The Upper West Side isn't known for pizza.

There are exceptions mind you, but generally speaking.... yuch.

The one exception I feel compelled to write about is not only the best pizza on the Upper West, but one of the best pies in NYC... the margarita pizza at Daniello's.

Why is this pie tops?

First, a hand tossed, uber-thin sweet crust. As anyone who knows pizza and they'll tell you the most important part of the perfect pizza is the crust. The standard pie here is a bit thicker, so don't waste your time. You want the margarita.

Next,the sauce.

Fresh, homemade, tangy. This sauce wakes up the pizza... and tastes authentic.

And last... the cheese. These pies come equiped with homemade mozzerella, sliced in thin patches.

I love the plain margarita, but variety abounds at Daniello's.

Choose from the seafood, fresh pepper and sausage, mexican, black olive, garlic and anchovy, grilled chicken, parisienne... well, you get the picture.

The rest of the food here is mediocre at best, and they know it. But it's always been about the pizza here, so nobody is losing any sleep.

Delivery is fast on the Upper West, and really the only way I recommend you enjoy Daniello's, as the space is a dump. But, hey... it's all about the pizza.

Daniello's
Pizza-Cafe-Restaurant
Pizza, Italian

70 W 95th St, New York 10025
At Columbus Ave

Phone: 212-961-0340
Fax: 212-961-0638

Wu Liang Ye: The Real Deal

From Spicy Noodles to Seared Pork Buns, It Doesn't Get Much Better




I'm not sure, but I'd like to take a stab at how many Chinese restaurants there may be in Manhattan.....

a jillion.

Well, maybe not a jillion, but certainly more than I can imagine, and then some.... and way too many to ever try and sample.

That said, I've found a Chinese restaurant that is so completely satisfying, I'm perfectly OK not trying most of the others.

For some foodies in NYC, my post about Midtown's Wu Liang Ye may be old news. But when you find food this good, well, you have to share the news.

About a year ago, a colleague of mine told me about Wu Liang Ye, since we worked only 3 blocks away in Rockefeller Plaza. She told me of their amazing dishes, noodles and sauces... and sure enough, soon I was ordering take out from Wu and having it delivered to my office... so I could nibble and slurp while working away at my desk during lunch. I have always loved the food and had decided that it was surely the best take out in Midtown.

But last week, I finally had the opportunity to go to Wu Liang Ye, which changed my observation of this restaurant forever.


First, we sneaked into this Szechwan gem on 48th street just under the wire on a Thursday night (when the kitchen is due to close at 9:30pm). Entering the 2nd floor dining room with a friend, we noticed a jam-packed room of diners, many who were just ordering or getting their goodies. The manager sat us right away and we began to pour over the menu.

The best sign (for me anyway) about the authenticity of any restaurant is who is eating there. When we entered, we both noticed one small thing... we were to only 2 non-Chinese diners in the place. Really. There were groups, families, workers.... it was terrific. This is gonna be some good.

The menu at Wu Liang Ye is frustrating, only because you can't order everything that looks good. Just too much food. The table next to us had 6 people sitting around a round table with a lazy susan in the middle.... obviously professionals at this game. They had ordered 4 or 5 dishes that looked so good, we might have joined them for dinner if asked. For 2 people, you have a more limited experience, unless you are ready to take home a grocery bag of left-overs (which is worth considering I might add).

Let's talk food.

The chef at Wu is a master of many dishes, but there are a few that just can't be missed.

First, the Pork Dumplings in Chili Sauce are remarkable. Tender, fragile dumplings swimming in a dark red chili oil are fresh and spicy, a perfect balance that won't set your mouth on fire.

Next, are noodles.

Now, all the noodles dishes here are spectacular, but there are two that I think do a great job of getting your palate in that happy place.

The first are the Chilled Noodles with spicy Sesame Vinaigrette... a refreshing dish that comes in a small bowl and can be easily shared. But not to be missed are the warm Dan Dan Noodles... served in a similar bowl, topped with ground pork and spinach on top, and a small amount of chili oil on the bottom. Once you mix them together and sample, a huge smile should spring across your face. This is heaven.

Soups are also terrific here, but with killer dishes waiting, I usually opt out, as I just need the room.


So what to order?

For me, I like mixing a seafood dish and a meat dish (either beef, chicken or pork) and on this night, it was an easy decision.

For the seafood dish, we'd order the Fried Salt and Pepper Prawns. I didn't see them on the menu, but had been told about them, so if you don't see them don't worry... go right on ahead and order them.

These are giant shrimp.... butterflied with the shells on, lightly dusted in flour and salt and pepper and flash fried. What you wind up with is a shrimp so perfect, you literally eat the breading right off, suck on the shells, before your peel and eat the shrimp itself. It reminds me a great deal of the Salt and Pepper Dungeness Crab at R and G Lounge in San Francisco, a dish I equate to a religious experience. This is good stuff.

On the meat side I could have gone one of 100 directions, but decided to keep it simple and ordered the shredded pork with garlic sauce. Delicious.

There are other things you should know about Wu Liang Ye.

The prices are great, and worth every penny. They could charge more, and I wouldn't care.

You can eat exotic... frogs, tongue, jelly fish, tripe, etc..... so if this is your bag, knock yourself out.

The fried rice is the freshed and best prepared in New York.

The tea-smoked duck with ginger is becoming legendary. Order it for your date and watch her head spin.

So I am guessing by now you are figuring our just how much I love this place. Sure, Chinatown has great food (New Green Bo, etc) but why march down there when Wu Liang Ye has a few of these north of Midtown?

When it comes to Chinese food, I look for fresh, well prepared, robust dishes. For my money, Wu Liang Ye is one of the best places in Manhattan to get just that... and for me, that's good enough.

Wu Liang Ye
Authentic Chinese Cuisine
Chinese

36 W 48th St, New York 10036
Btwn 5th & 6th Ave

Phone: 212-398-2308
Fax: 646-366-1505

Photo Credit: NYCnosh.com

Del Posto: Decadence With A Price

But With Mario... It's Still All About the Pasta





Happy New Year.

It took quite a while (months) for me to get to Del Posto… a restaurant opening I have been eagerly anticipating. Their pre-opening drama is now famous in the restaurant world, but little did I care if the fare was to live up to its promise.

My first visit happened on a special night… New Year’s Eve. Del Posto was offering a special white truffle tasting menu that evening, but I opted for the ala carte experience, as I wanted to taste the flavors that had been flowing out of the kitchen since opening.

Before I get started, let me make something clear.

This place ain’t cheap.

I’m cool with that, and I get fine dining… and sure, I dropped about $200 on a simple dinner for 2. But please note…. I could have easily dropped $400-600 on this night. So my message? Come to Del Posto with room on your Visa card… you’re gonna need it.

Upon entering the restaurant, one thing is clear. They spent an unreal amount of money on this build out. It is spectacular. A large room that doesn’t get too noisy. A refined elegance, without being too stuffy. A perfect bar. Large, looming balconies with tables of happy parties. And the most amazing thing?.... tables with a major amount of elbow room. To eavesdrop here, you’ll need skills.

Arriving a few minutes early, we sat at the bar and ordered cocktails. Ours were perfectly prepared in a beautiful manner, but it’s what the woman next to us ordered that blew us away…. A simple amaretto sour. As we watched the bartender make this drink, complete with egg whites and 5 different ingredients, we were in awe. He mixed it like I have never seen a drink mixed, them drizzled sour cherry juice through the middle. The woman drank a sip and nearly passed out. “This is the best drink I have ever tasted,” she exclaimed. I believed every word of it.

At the table, the kitchen began by sending out the obligatory freebies that were welcomed with hungry stomachs. Tiny morsels of heaven… polenta, hams… you get the picture.

The menu is tough, as you veer to many options…. Antipastas that include roasted autumn vegetables, scallops with carpaccio, amazing salads and house-cured salami. Risotto with porcini or lobster. Pastas that included pumpkin stuffed ravioli (folded) and orecchiette with lamb, peas and chanterelles.

All that before you see the main courses… fish, turkey, pork, wild game… well, you get the picture. If all of this is too much, you can always opt for the Del Posto tasting menu ($120) or the white truffle tasting menu ($295)…. But both looked to be an enormous amount of food… and we preferred to enjoy the night without feeling like we needed to rush home and go to sleep.

Our selections seemed perfect on that romantic evening. A beef carpaccio that may have been the best I’ve ever tasted and a plate of salami to get started. We passed on the salads and moved straight to the pasta tasting, a selection on 3 pastas for our table.

Say what you will about the food at Del Posto, but in my humble opinion, the pasta is the star here. The pumpkin stuffed ravioli, folded in delicate sheets of handmade pasta, and topped with brown butter and truffles was nearly an out of body experience. Next, the rabbit stuffed pasta with golden butter and leeks was damn near as good as the pumpkin. And last, we enjoyed a garganelli pasta with a simple Bolognese that seemed to round out all three tastes perfectly. The portions for this tasting are small, but at $27 a person, a good buy as you get to sample several dishes.

Starting to feel full, we split an entrée, the pork loin with grilled celery and artichoke. It was perfect for the two of us, and was wonderfully prepared.

Now feeling full, we were faced with the dilemma of a dessert menu that looked to good to be true. Baked meringues, chocolate-hazelnut mousse, almond cakes… all amazing. What we didn’t know was order or not, a cart of freshly made goodies would arrive at our table, and we would receive a plate full of sweets courtesy of the kitchen. The fennel and white chocolate bites on this plate were out of this world.

So, how do I sum this up?

It’s wonderful, expensive, decadent, interesting, sometimes annoying but delicious.

Unless you get really excited setting your money on fire, take this advice.

Enjoy Del Posto as you would Babbo or Lupa. Search for small bites. Craft special ala carte meals.

If you give in to the overwhelming urge to overindulge, you will leave upset and likely disappointed. It can be spectacular in its ability to deliver an over the top experience… but if you are gonna drop that kind of cash, I’ll like to recommend you make a reservation at Per Se.

Oh yea…get the pumpkin ravioli.

Christmas Breakfast.... at HOME!

Spend Time With Your Family and Cook Ahead!


I've spent the year talking about where to go eat... so I thought I would use this blog to tell you to stay home and cook.

Merry Christmas.

A Christmas tradition at my house for as long as I can remember, is a Christmas morning brunch for all to enjoy, while those who decided to sleep in finally dragged themselves out of bed.

The main dish is prepared ahead and simply baked off, and the grits would go together in 10 minutes. When it was all hot, it could stay on the counter for hours next to a pot of hot coffee and cold orange juice. It just wouldn't be Christmas without it.

Unfortunatly, only 3 people on this earth have the recipe I am speaking of, so I scoured the trades for another that I though would be as good, and found the recipes below from author Tracey Koch. They are listed below... and look delish.

Enjoy a wonderful holiday... I'll see you right here in 2007.

André



Cinnamon Streusel Breakfast Bread Pudding with Warm Maple Syrup

Serves 6.

1 stick butter, melted
1 loaf French bread (cut into 1 1/2-inch slices)
4 large eggs
1 cup granulatedsugar
1/4 tsp. salt
3 cups whole or low-fat milk
2 tbls. vanilla
3/4 cup packed light brown sugar
1/4 cup chopped pecans, optional
2 tbls. ground cinnamon
Warm Butter Maple Syrup (recipe follows)


Warm Butter Maple Syrup
4 tbls. butter
1 cup maple syrup

1. Place the butter in a microwave-safe dish and heat on high for 30 to 40 seconds or until melted.
2. Add the maple syrup to the melted butter and heat another 20 to 30 seconds or until the mixture is heated through.


1. Brush the bottom and sides of a 9x13-inch baking pan with 2 tablespoons of the melted butter.
2. In a large mixing bowl, whisk the eggs until frothy.
3. Slowly add in the granulated sugar, salt, milk and vanilla and continue to whisk until all is incorporated.
4. In a smaller mixing bowl, combine brown sugar, pecans and cinnamon.
5. Arrange half of the French bread slices in the bottom of the prepared baking dish. (The bread should fit very close together, touching, but not overlapping.) Then brush the bread with 3 more tablespoons of melted butter.
6. Slowly pour half of the egg mixture evenly over the bread, making sure to coat each piece. Then sprinkle half of the cinnamon-sugar mixture over the top.
7. Repeat the steps ending with the streusel topping. Allow bread pudding to sit at least 2 hours or overnight, covered, in the refrigerator.
8. To bake, preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Remove the bread pudding from the refrigerator and allow it to come to room temperature.
9. Bake uncovered 45 to 50 minutes or until a knife inserted into the middle comes out clean and bread pudding is puffed and browned. Serve warm with Warm Butter Maple Syrup.
Kitchen helpers: Kids will be eager to help in buttering the bread slices and the pan, whisking the egg mixture and combining the streusel topping.


Sausage and Cheese Baked Grits

Serves 6.

1 lb. bulk breakfast sausage
4 cups water
1 cup grits
1/4 tsp. salt
1 tbl. butter
1/4 cup milk
3 ozs. cream cheese
2 cups shredded Cheddar cheese

1. In a large skillet, sauté the bulk sausage until browned well. Drain and set aside.
2. Bring water to a rolling boil and add salt.
3. Stir in grits and allow them to come back to a boil.
4. Reduce heat to medium low and continue to simmer until all of the water is gone, stirring occasionally to prevent sticking.
5. Remove from heat and add in the butter, milk, cream cheese and 1 cup of the Cheddar cheese. Mix until all of the cheese is melted.
6. Spray a 9x13-inch baking dish with nonstick cooking spray.
7. Fold the sausage into the cheese grits mixture and pour into the prepared baking dish. Top with the remaining cheese and cover. Place casserole into the refrigerator until ready to bake. (This dish can be made one day in advance.)
8. To bake, preheat the oven to 375 degrees and bake, covered, for 20 minutes. Remove cover and continue to bake 5 to 10 minutes or until cheese is melted and bubbly.

Kitchen helpers: Kids will be able to help in grating cheese, measuring the ingredients and mixing everything together.

Give New York For Christmas

It's Never Too Late To Send A Little NYC Cheer



Christmas is upon us. The tree at Rockefeller Plaza is glowing, skaters are skating and shoppers are frantic. Chestnuts are roasting on streetside carts… and folks like you and I are working to get that final gift or two off of our list.

Each year I make it a point to try and use local fare in my gift giving. When I was in Chicago, it was Garrett’s Popcorn. In Los Angeles, it was Dupar’s Pies. In Baton Rouge, it was boudin balls from Tony’s.

Now that I fancy myself a New Yorker, I have been researching my gift-giving options. In a city that offers so many amazing culinary treats, I thought I’d share with you some of my favorites… just in time for Christmas! If you need that one last special gift, click on the websites below. If not, keep this list handy next time you need that special something that says, “I live in New York, and you don’t”.

Merry Christmas everyone.



The Gift of Crazy-Good Chocolate
Jacques Torres Chocolate

As much as I love Lindt, Godiva, M & M’s… Jaques Torres just does it for me. His hot chocolate is the most decadent stuff I have ever tasted, but when I can’t get it I opt for his chocolate covered cherrios. Two (2) NYC locations including a post in Dumbo. www.mrchocolate.com

I Need My Bagels
H & H Bagels
Know a special someone who once lived in the Village, but now lives in Iowa? How about sending them a bag of warm, crusty bagels? As popular as H & H is locally, they claim to ship thousands of bagels across the country daily. I’ll have mine with some schmear. www.hhbagels.com

Send It All
Zabars
It may be one of the best kitchen/foodshops in the world, and it seems I hit them every year when I get stuck on what the hell to get someone.
The champion of gifts is the “Zabars is New York” box, which includes… ready?.... Zabar's Nova, kosher salami, pastrami, Zabar's deli mustard, Jewish rye bread, plain and scallion cream cheese, Zabar's chocolate babka, Lazzaroni Amaretti di Saronno cookies, a Lindt raspberry-filled chocolate bar, DiCamillo biscotti, Pernigotti moon and star Italian chocolates, Zabar's cinnamon rugelach, Betsy's Place chocolate chip cookies, New York cheddar cheese biscuits, assorted fresh-baked New York bagels, Le Trouvillais sables fruit cookies, a Zabar's coffee mug and a pound of Zabar's Blend ground coffee. You’ll be a stud. www.zabars.com

Send A Weiner
Schaller & Weber
Few places on earth warm my heart like Schaller & Weber, and I’ll tell you why. Homemade black forest hams, snap skin hot dogs, amazing salami, perfect brats and maybe the best selection of German mustard in NYC. A visit to this Upper East Side landmark is a joy, but when I can’t get there, I order online. www.schallerweber.com

Now Thatsa Pie!
Little Pie Company

When people think of NY pies, the usually think pizza, and not apple. But at this gem of a spot, real New Yorker know that the best pies in the city spring from these ovens. All of their pies are simply delicious… but make no mistake, the Sour Cream Apple Walnut is truly one of the best pies you’ll ever taste. www.littlepiecompany.com

What A Friend We Have In Cheeses
Murray’s Cheese
There was a time when ordering cheese mail order meant pecan logs and smoked gouda.
Thanks to establishments like Murray’s, New York’s most famous cheese purveyors, you can order nearly anything under the sun, and all of the goodies that go with. www.murrayscheese.com

Spread Love
Sarabeth’s
If you haven’t been to Sarabeth’s Central Park South restaurant, you’ve missed something special… warm breads with the city’s best jam.
Her signature Cloudberry is now an Aquavit favorite, but I still opt for her Peach-Apricot and Cherry-Plum, which are as good as they sound. Oh yea, her Budapest Bundt Cake is also fab.www.sarabeths.com

Moby Drinks Tea
Teany
I’m not sure what I like better… having tea at Teany in the East Village, or walking around the neighborhood when I am finished. Even though I fancy myself a coffee guy, the Earl Grey Crème is fantastic stuff, and you can now ship it to your favorite ex-New Yorker, and then brag about having lunch at Inoteca next door. www.teany.com