Kellari Taverna: Superb Greek in Midtown

This Greek Is Really All That



If you are like me, several nights a week you stare at a stack of menus, or go online to figure out what’s for dinner.

Exhausting.

Italian? Chinese? Thai? Sushi? What the hell.

For some reason, I often forget Greek food, or even Lebanese…. two of my favorites.

This leads me to this week’s review of Kellari… the place I almost forgot about.

My recent visit was on Valentine’s Day, a simply wonderful day to visit. Sure, the restaurant had a special menu for the special day, but also offered their regular daily menu for those of us who just want to eat the good stuff, without the obligatory “prix fixe” cuisine. The hand delivered roses were a nice touch by the management, too.













For me, Greek and Lebanese/Mediterranean food is all about the mezes. I usually load up on a table full of these treasures, and leave the entrees to others. Really. By the time I am finished nibbling on 8 small plates of food, I’m about done.

The good news here is that the meze are out of this world.

What can I recommend?

Before anything hits the table, you are presented with a tray of homemade hummus spread (terrific), pickles and cucumbers. Just right with that pre-wine cocktail you just ordered.

The rest?

The tzatziki, their version of the well know garlic/cucumber/yogurt dip… is outstanding. Creamy, cold and rich…. it is nearly a meal in itself, and is accompanied by a basket of fresh-out-of-the-oven pita bread. Crazy good.

The fava beans in roasted tomato reminded me of the same dish I enjoyed in Crete only a few years ago. Tangy tomato with just the right herb infusion, with perfectly cooked fava beans (with bite and no mush).

The house smoked feta with honey was also terrific, as were the dolma (vine leaves filled with lamb, rice and raisins)… but the show stealer was the katsikisio…. in Greek, that’s warm goat cheese baked with apricots and almonds. This dish convinced us that these guys really know their stuff.

The mistake of the night was ordering dinner. Already full at that point, our curiosity got the best of us, and the whole fish was begging to be roasted.

So, we ordered their house specialty… any whole fish (many to choose from), that are scaled and filleted to order, and grilled over charcoal.


Was the fish good? Yes. But I need to add an asterisk to this remark, as I had a slight problem with the fish.

Being from Louisiana can sometimes be a curse when it comes to seafood, as I was spoiled from a young age. This means that any… and I mean ANY piece of fish I eat, just can’t smell or taste like, well, fish.

So when the fresh roasted Red Snapper (not Gulf but imported) came to the table, I had a feeling it might have a slightly stronger fish taste that I prefer, and I was right. It did.

For most, this is a taste they know and don’t mind. The fish was expertly prepared and presented, and by the looks of others around us, enjoyed by all.

I passed.

Desserts looked astounding, but honestly I was still full from the meze… but I did indulge in a cup of Greek coffee… which I highly recommend. Sure, it’s sludge, but the stuff tastes great, and reminds me of Istanbul. Go for it.

So the verdict?

Aside from my fish experience, the place is absolutely wonderful. It’s a sleek, modern and tasteful room, with attentive staff and a generally good vibe. The food is excellent, and fairly priced. I’m still trying to figure out how I scored at table at 7pm here on Valentine’s Day.

My remedy for strong fish will be ordering on of the many tempting meat dishes on my next visit. This food is just too good to let one fish get in the way.



Kellari Taverna
Greek

19 W 44th St, New York 10036
Btwn 5th & 6th Ave

Ted's Montana Grill: Pretender?

Get Ready. There is Bison in Midtown.


Ted Turner has bison. And a ranch. And CNN.

So, last week when I visited Ted’s Montana Grill in Midtown, I expected the works. Antlers, stuffed heads, Indian-inspired rugs, big screen TV’s beaming Wolf Blitzer, you name it.

The place was, well, not what I expected.

So what did I find?

Well, at first glance the wood-clad room looked about like any other Bennigans-like establishment, smallish and without most of the kitsch, except for the singular, gratuitous bison head. The place was simple, and exuded nearly zero personality… which is just fine if you are making your statement in the kitchen (I hope this is the plan).

My visit to Ted’s was a hamburger mission, and I wasn’t going to be denied. It had been weeks since I had a good hamburger, and I had heard that Ted’s had a good thing happening with the bison burger…. so here I was.

First, getting a table at lunch is a problem. The prices are in that “it’s just a hair to expensive but what the hell” range, that spells trouble when it’s 10 degrees outside. That kind of weather is certainly worth another $5-$8 dollars of consideration. So, we wait.


Our midweek noon encounter was a packed one, with seemingly nobody in charge. We did receive the vibrating remote (thank you Olive Garden), but were later greeted in the bar by a wait person who told us to ditch it, as she would find us a table. Hmmm, I smell an employee meeting coming on.

After she sat us in a strangely covert way, we were greeted by a slightly insane server who quickly made sure we had enough beer to get through the wait of actually ordering and eating. Job well done.

Let’s hop to the food.

First, the bison. If you like good, meaty tasting burgers, you will like bison. It’s not a gamey taste (which I can’t tolerate), it’s a big, meaty one. My burger, cooked medium well (order on notch higher than usual says the waiter guy) was moist in the middle, and crunchy-charred on the outside. Yum.

The bun (nearly as important) was of the Kaiser roll variety, and also held its own. It came with a little grease on the bottom, but hey, who’s complaining. That’s flavor in the burger world.

The fries (extra $$) were cold and average, a disappointment when you consider that these guys try to take hamburgers seriously.


The rest of the menu features chicken grilled sandwiches, apps (we had an OK stack of onion rings) and steaks of the bison and regular beef variety. Daily specials look good, as did the soup of the day which we tasted… a yankee-styled gumbo that was good and hot, but not very authentic. A better bowl can be had at Cosi (no, really, Cosi).

Desserts fair much better, and the Apple Crisp looked downright yummy.

So the verdict?

It’s just OK, which can be the kiss of death in this city, where mediocrity can mean papering up the windows. But with the need of burger joints in Midtown, Ted’s will likely survive. I enjoyed my burger, and it hit the spot… just not the memorable one. I may be back from time to time, but I won’t be opting for the vibrating remote… I’ll be moving down the street where the wait isn’t quite as long.

Time to cab over to Hell's Kitchen for chicken and waffles.




Ted's Montana Grill
American (Traditional), Steakhouses, Wild Game

110 W 51st St, New York 10020
Btwn 6th & 7th Ave

Phone: 212-245-5220

In Case You Missed It: February 07

News and Notes You Need To Know



First, Happy Valentines Day!

If you thought the only folks happy about the holiday of love were the blokes at Hallmark, think again. Just about every reputable restaurant in NYC is taking reservations up the wazoo... wishing every month had a Feb. 14th!

That said, here is the latest from the plate, just in time to pick up the phone and find you'll be eating at 5:oopm, or 11:30pm.


Say It Ain't So
Word on the street is that Cité, my favorite wine dinner spot in NYC, and possibly one of the best deals on earth, is closing. Something about a lease, blah blah blah. This means, if you like to drink, I mean, really drink.... you'll need to get over there in the coming weeks and indulge.

I Like The View
Is there anything more romantic than watching ice skaters glide across the Rockefeller Plaza ice? Sure, but I gotta tell you, tables underground on the glass at The Sea Grill ain't bad. Valentine's Day provides a Prix Fixe dinner for $88. that includes Sevruga Caviar and a Lobster Risotto, as well as Veal Cheeks for my land lubbing friends. You could do worse.....

Surf and Turf for $75 Bones?
Sure. Nick and Stef's has the deal on the 14th, which also include raw oysters (I think this is good for the date) and a frozen Raspberry cake for dessert. Worth consideration.

Opt Out and Knock Her Socks Off
Why fight the crowds when you can order in? Fresh Direct will show up at the house with a sweetheart of a meal that includes a Double Cut Filet Mignon with twin Lobster Tails or a Gruyére Fondue, killer appetizer and Molten Chocolate Cake for between $69 and $99 bucks. When you consider the cab, flowers, etc... this and a netflix evening could lead to some real romance....

Because You Need It
If you are a coffee freak like me, you need the Capresso Team Plus S coffee maker. The machine, that grinds fresh beans and brews at the optimal temp (which nearly no other coffee maker does) delivers the hottest, best tasting cup of coffee on the home market. For those who own this machine like I do, time to upgrade to the Capresso Coffee Team Therm! Basically the same machine, with a thermal carafe to keep your joe in the 180 degree range for several hours. At $299., the machine is a steal, as the burr grinder in the baby is worth that price alone....

Forget The Diet and Eat King Cake
Since I was a kid, I've been eating King Cakes, and one of my favorites is now on the web... direct from New Orleans. Order the Pecan Praline filled with Cream Cheese and celebrate Mardi Gras with us coonasses.

It's Mardi Gras.... Eat Like You Mean It
I rarely pimp my cajun brothers and their food, but if you haven't had the Jalapeno Sausage Bread and Stuffed Chickens from Bourque's, you haven't lived. Click here, call Shannon and tell them that Andre at ForkNewYork sent ya. The ship it all, and the may be the best sausage makers in Louisiana. Really.


Quick Bites......
How amazing are the Garden of Eden stores in NYC?... The Chelsea store blew me away over the weekend, and sells the best tortilla chips I have ever eaten (in the brown paper bag with the window)..... Chelsea Papaya dogs are just as good as Gray's and a hair cheaper.... "Lupa" has expanded their hours, and are now open ALL DAY... so, forget the lines and go have a late late lunch without the crowds....why haven't I been throwing chicken wings in my convection oven my whole life?... the owners of ForkNewYork favorite "Bin 71" have opened a new joint "Barcibo Enoteca", a few blocks away on Broadway on the Upper West... similar menu, but a large, expanded Italian wine list awaits.... splurge on the Schaller and Weber Black Forest Bacon on your next Fresh Direct order, you won't be sorry.... does anyone do the Atkins Diet anymore?.... I understand the burgers at Ted's Montana Grill are tasty, and plan to see for myself next week.... did Whole Foods really stop selling lobsters because of cruelty?... has anyone visited their pork department?..... the "Dirty" Brand potato chips sold all over NYC are actually "Zapps" potato chips, made in Gramercy, Louisiana and marketed under the "Dirty" chip name.... watch for a future Tuesday profile of mine on "Midtown Lunch", one of NYC's better food blogs..... speaking of blogs, this blog was recently linked on Eater.com, and has been added to BlogSoop.com as well as Digesty and others..... when is the last time you had a bowl of Oh's! Cereal?....

The Bar Room at The Modern: Art in Motion

Great Food In A Great Setting.... Is There More?


There is something amazingly clever about eating at a museum.

For years, I have loved eating at museums… in Europe (where the food is just downright great) and in the US (where the food can sway between terrific and a sandwich shelf at 7-11).

Eating at European museums usually means that not only will the food be artful, tasteful and fun… but so will your surroundings. Like at the Café at the Louvre in Paris, or the Picasso Museum… or perhaps the wonderful café at the Van Gogh Museum in Amsterdam. Of course half the fun is looking at the design of the plates, forks and glasses… but somehow these places also deliver delicious foodstuffs at reasonable prices.

MOMA in New York is no different, and has a charming café to have a salad or sandwich and a glass of white wine… but more tempting is The Modern, their fine dining destination on the ground floor.

Carved into two dining areas, The Modern brings museum dining to a new level. Chef Danny Meyer has made sure the food is terrific, and the setting does the rest.

My visit was on a Sunday evening, and my guest and I dined at a table in The Bar Room… the larger of the two dining rooms, as well as the more affordable.

The menu in The Bar Room is divided into 3 sections, the first two being starter plates (think tapas size) and the third being the entrée page (with the portions being more half entrée size).

If you are a big eater who lives for Chinese buffets and 2 pound Stouffer’s Lasagna, this may not be the spot for you.

Being a large guy myself and decent eater, I found the portions to be fine, and the flavors to be remarkable.

Off of the first page of our menu, my guest ordered a wonderful salad with triple cream goat cheese… and I had the grilled shrimp with green cabbage and gruyere.

Well I have to tell you, both dishes were spectacular. The salad was delicate and flavorful, but the shrimp dish was the standout. The shrimp were smoky and grilled perfectly, and the cabbage salad was superb. We both thought that if this was the level of taste we had arrived for the evening, this was going to be one heck of a night.

Unfortunately, the next course of homemade country sausage (for her) and wild mushroom soup with chorizo ravioli (for me) brought us back down to earth.


While the sausage was good, it was nothing spectacular, and honestly not as good as the homemade variety I might nab of the Halo Berlin Cart in midtown. The soup was a light, broth-like puree that was big on taste and very good… but was paired with a fried, dry chorizo stuffed ravioli… a complete and total mystery. Even on it’s own, the chorizo bites were not very good, and this is coming from a guy who eats sausage like I am expecting to have a heart attack any day.

The savior of the meal was the third course, which brought us back above the bar. The wild, horseradish-crusted salmon was incredible… resting in a foam of sweet Riesling. My sirloin au poive came with fluffy pan-fried spaetzle, tossed in a brown butter cream. Wow.

The wines are expensive and are available by the glass, and cocktails creative and well mixed. Deserts looked terrific with a nice selection including beignets, sorbets and cheesecakes… but alas, there was no room at the inn.

So final thoughts?

I like it. Lunch may present a smaller bill, but truth be told, this is fairly good value when you qualify this setting, at the world-renown MOMA. If you are looking for a wonderful meal at less-than-The Modern prices, The Bar Room is for you.

Just come early for a glimpse at a few Picasso’s. It makes for an exquisite evening.


The Bar Room at The Modern
The Museum of Modern Art (MoMA)
French, American

9 W 53rd St, New York 10019
Btwn 5th & 6th Ave




Photo proudly swiped from Robert Presutti for The New York Times.

Bouley: The Magic Is Alive and Well

From the moment you walk in, wow.



I often preach that a terrific dinner in NYC is more than food.... it's an experience.

With that thought, I give you Bouley.

Bouley, the gift from Chef David Bouley, is just that.... an experience. From the moment you walk through the apple-lined foyer into the "Hobbit" inspired dining room, he's got you. Your senses are now on overload, and your taste buds are anticipating something special. David Bouley then delivers.

Epicureans have a love-hate relationship with David Bouley. While most agree that the food is superb, they look for other cracks in the armor. Service, price, wine, etc..... take your pick. But with an experience like mine, I can't help but think that the critics are really missing the point of this restaurant... a complete experience that serves as a journey to someplace else. A place where the delicate nuance of an herb or palate cleansing sorbet is delivered as a violin would deliver a melody within a symphonic performance. Perfection.

First, the environment.

It's everything you may expect in a restaurant of this caliber... but better. Sure, there are crisp, white tablecloths... but the rooms are warm. Once through the door, the right dining room is cream and white... a brighter contrast to the left dining room. This room, full of sloping arches... is colored in rich crimson, making for an appetizing backdrop. It's charming, magical and romantic... all at the same time.

Even though my large party agreed on a universal tasting menu, make no mistake... any experience here will include special touches from the kitchen. Canapés, sorbets and amazing breads, carved tableside.

The front of the house certainly hold their own. Attentive service. Expert wine advice. Full water glasses. They know the drill.

As the surroundings command attention, the food at Bouley is truly the star. A fusion of French-American cooking, there is simply no heavy-handed anything at Bouley. Delicate flavors are the rule here, and Chef Bouley raises the bar almost laughingly in this area. His amazing tuna appetizer with shaved fennel is perfectly balanced, his Maine lobster with mango, artichoke and Serrano ham dressed with a tamarind dressing... adorned with fresh coconut.

This is just plain fun.

Entrees run the traditional range from fish, to fowl, to lamb and venison. But these selections are far from the norm. Where can you taste Black Sea Bass in a Sea Scallop crust? Or a lamb filet baked in a Black Truffle crust? Well, at Bouley.

There are cheeses to reset the courses if needed, but special effort should be made regarding dessert. As I am not one who usually makes it to dessert, I implore you... make the effort. The Vanilla Rice Pudding is remarkable, as is the Chocolate Banana Tart... but it's the Valrhona Chocolate Soufflé that steals the show.

Note: If you are thinking of proposing to your girlfriend, order one of these and pop the question. Done deal.

My final take?

Bouley is simply on of the best restaurants in NYC. In a land of sterile, often bland dining spots with robotic service, Bouley does something remarkable. He opens the door, welcomes with a smile, and quietly knocks your socks off.

That's worth the price of admission in my book.



Bouley
French, Wild Game

120 W Broadway, New York 10013
Btwn Duane & Reade St

Daniello's: Best Pizza on the Upper West?

It's true... this pie is the bomb.



The Upper West Side isn't known for pizza.

There are exceptions mind you, but generally speaking.... yuch.

The one exception I feel compelled to write about is not only the best pizza on the Upper West, but one of the best pies in NYC... the margarita pizza at Daniello's.

Why is this pie tops?

First, a hand tossed, uber-thin sweet crust. As anyone who knows pizza and they'll tell you the most important part of the perfect pizza is the crust. The standard pie here is a bit thicker, so don't waste your time. You want the margarita.

Next,the sauce.

Fresh, homemade, tangy. This sauce wakes up the pizza... and tastes authentic.

And last... the cheese. These pies come equiped with homemade mozzerella, sliced in thin patches.

I love the plain margarita, but variety abounds at Daniello's.

Choose from the seafood, fresh pepper and sausage, mexican, black olive, garlic and anchovy, grilled chicken, parisienne... well, you get the picture.

The rest of the food here is mediocre at best, and they know it. But it's always been about the pizza here, so nobody is losing any sleep.

Delivery is fast on the Upper West, and really the only way I recommend you enjoy Daniello's, as the space is a dump. But, hey... it's all about the pizza.

Daniello's
Pizza-Cafe-Restaurant
Pizza, Italian

70 W 95th St, New York 10025
At Columbus Ave

Phone: 212-961-0340
Fax: 212-961-0638

Wu Liang Ye: The Real Deal

From Spicy Noodles to Seared Pork Buns, It Doesn't Get Much Better




I'm not sure, but I'd like to take a stab at how many Chinese restaurants there may be in Manhattan.....

a jillion.

Well, maybe not a jillion, but certainly more than I can imagine, and then some.... and way too many to ever try and sample.

That said, I've found a Chinese restaurant that is so completely satisfying, I'm perfectly OK not trying most of the others.

For some foodies in NYC, my post about Midtown's Wu Liang Ye may be old news. But when you find food this good, well, you have to share the news.

About a year ago, a colleague of mine told me about Wu Liang Ye, since we worked only 3 blocks away in Rockefeller Plaza. She told me of their amazing dishes, noodles and sauces... and sure enough, soon I was ordering take out from Wu and having it delivered to my office... so I could nibble and slurp while working away at my desk during lunch. I have always loved the food and had decided that it was surely the best take out in Midtown.

But last week, I finally had the opportunity to go to Wu Liang Ye, which changed my observation of this restaurant forever.


First, we sneaked into this Szechwan gem on 48th street just under the wire on a Thursday night (when the kitchen is due to close at 9:30pm). Entering the 2nd floor dining room with a friend, we noticed a jam-packed room of diners, many who were just ordering or getting their goodies. The manager sat us right away and we began to pour over the menu.

The best sign (for me anyway) about the authenticity of any restaurant is who is eating there. When we entered, we both noticed one small thing... we were to only 2 non-Chinese diners in the place. Really. There were groups, families, workers.... it was terrific. This is gonna be some good.

The menu at Wu Liang Ye is frustrating, only because you can't order everything that looks good. Just too much food. The table next to us had 6 people sitting around a round table with a lazy susan in the middle.... obviously professionals at this game. They had ordered 4 or 5 dishes that looked so good, we might have joined them for dinner if asked. For 2 people, you have a more limited experience, unless you are ready to take home a grocery bag of left-overs (which is worth considering I might add).

Let's talk food.

The chef at Wu is a master of many dishes, but there are a few that just can't be missed.

First, the Pork Dumplings in Chili Sauce are remarkable. Tender, fragile dumplings swimming in a dark red chili oil are fresh and spicy, a perfect balance that won't set your mouth on fire.

Next, are noodles.

Now, all the noodles dishes here are spectacular, but there are two that I think do a great job of getting your palate in that happy place.

The first are the Chilled Noodles with spicy Sesame Vinaigrette... a refreshing dish that comes in a small bowl and can be easily shared. But not to be missed are the warm Dan Dan Noodles... served in a similar bowl, topped with ground pork and spinach on top, and a small amount of chili oil on the bottom. Once you mix them together and sample, a huge smile should spring across your face. This is heaven.

Soups are also terrific here, but with killer dishes waiting, I usually opt out, as I just need the room.


So what to order?

For me, I like mixing a seafood dish and a meat dish (either beef, chicken or pork) and on this night, it was an easy decision.

For the seafood dish, we'd order the Fried Salt and Pepper Prawns. I didn't see them on the menu, but had been told about them, so if you don't see them don't worry... go right on ahead and order them.

These are giant shrimp.... butterflied with the shells on, lightly dusted in flour and salt and pepper and flash fried. What you wind up with is a shrimp so perfect, you literally eat the breading right off, suck on the shells, before your peel and eat the shrimp itself. It reminds me a great deal of the Salt and Pepper Dungeness Crab at R and G Lounge in San Francisco, a dish I equate to a religious experience. This is good stuff.

On the meat side I could have gone one of 100 directions, but decided to keep it simple and ordered the shredded pork with garlic sauce. Delicious.

There are other things you should know about Wu Liang Ye.

The prices are great, and worth every penny. They could charge more, and I wouldn't care.

You can eat exotic... frogs, tongue, jelly fish, tripe, etc..... so if this is your bag, knock yourself out.

The fried rice is the freshed and best prepared in New York.

The tea-smoked duck with ginger is becoming legendary. Order it for your date and watch her head spin.

So I am guessing by now you are figuring our just how much I love this place. Sure, Chinatown has great food (New Green Bo, etc) but why march down there when Wu Liang Ye has a few of these north of Midtown?

When it comes to Chinese food, I look for fresh, well prepared, robust dishes. For my money, Wu Liang Ye is one of the best places in Manhattan to get just that... and for me, that's good enough.

Wu Liang Ye
Authentic Chinese Cuisine
Chinese

36 W 48th St, New York 10036
Btwn 5th & 6th Ave

Phone: 212-398-2308
Fax: 646-366-1505

Photo Credit: NYCnosh.com

Del Posto: Decadence With A Price

But With Mario... It's Still All About the Pasta





Happy New Year.

It took quite a while (months) for me to get to Del Posto… a restaurant opening I have been eagerly anticipating. Their pre-opening drama is now famous in the restaurant world, but little did I care if the fare was to live up to its promise.

My first visit happened on a special night… New Year’s Eve. Del Posto was offering a special white truffle tasting menu that evening, but I opted for the ala carte experience, as I wanted to taste the flavors that had been flowing out of the kitchen since opening.

Before I get started, let me make something clear.

This place ain’t cheap.

I’m cool with that, and I get fine dining… and sure, I dropped about $200 on a simple dinner for 2. But please note…. I could have easily dropped $400-600 on this night. So my message? Come to Del Posto with room on your Visa card… you’re gonna need it.

Upon entering the restaurant, one thing is clear. They spent an unreal amount of money on this build out. It is spectacular. A large room that doesn’t get too noisy. A refined elegance, without being too stuffy. A perfect bar. Large, looming balconies with tables of happy parties. And the most amazing thing?.... tables with a major amount of elbow room. To eavesdrop here, you’ll need skills.

Arriving a few minutes early, we sat at the bar and ordered cocktails. Ours were perfectly prepared in a beautiful manner, but it’s what the woman next to us ordered that blew us away…. A simple amaretto sour. As we watched the bartender make this drink, complete with egg whites and 5 different ingredients, we were in awe. He mixed it like I have never seen a drink mixed, them drizzled sour cherry juice through the middle. The woman drank a sip and nearly passed out. “This is the best drink I have ever tasted,” she exclaimed. I believed every word of it.

At the table, the kitchen began by sending out the obligatory freebies that were welcomed with hungry stomachs. Tiny morsels of heaven… polenta, hams… you get the picture.

The menu is tough, as you veer to many options…. Antipastas that include roasted autumn vegetables, scallops with carpaccio, amazing salads and house-cured salami. Risotto with porcini or lobster. Pastas that included pumpkin stuffed ravioli (folded) and orecchiette with lamb, peas and chanterelles.

All that before you see the main courses… fish, turkey, pork, wild game… well, you get the picture. If all of this is too much, you can always opt for the Del Posto tasting menu ($120) or the white truffle tasting menu ($295)…. But both looked to be an enormous amount of food… and we preferred to enjoy the night without feeling like we needed to rush home and go to sleep.

Our selections seemed perfect on that romantic evening. A beef carpaccio that may have been the best I’ve ever tasted and a plate of salami to get started. We passed on the salads and moved straight to the pasta tasting, a selection on 3 pastas for our table.

Say what you will about the food at Del Posto, but in my humble opinion, the pasta is the star here. The pumpkin stuffed ravioli, folded in delicate sheets of handmade pasta, and topped with brown butter and truffles was nearly an out of body experience. Next, the rabbit stuffed pasta with golden butter and leeks was damn near as good as the pumpkin. And last, we enjoyed a garganelli pasta with a simple Bolognese that seemed to round out all three tastes perfectly. The portions for this tasting are small, but at $27 a person, a good buy as you get to sample several dishes.

Starting to feel full, we split an entrée, the pork loin with grilled celery and artichoke. It was perfect for the two of us, and was wonderfully prepared.

Now feeling full, we were faced with the dilemma of a dessert menu that looked to good to be true. Baked meringues, chocolate-hazelnut mousse, almond cakes… all amazing. What we didn’t know was order or not, a cart of freshly made goodies would arrive at our table, and we would receive a plate full of sweets courtesy of the kitchen. The fennel and white chocolate bites on this plate were out of this world.

So, how do I sum this up?

It’s wonderful, expensive, decadent, interesting, sometimes annoying but delicious.

Unless you get really excited setting your money on fire, take this advice.

Enjoy Del Posto as you would Babbo or Lupa. Search for small bites. Craft special ala carte meals.

If you give in to the overwhelming urge to overindulge, you will leave upset and likely disappointed. It can be spectacular in its ability to deliver an over the top experience… but if you are gonna drop that kind of cash, I’ll like to recommend you make a reservation at Per Se.

Oh yea…get the pumpkin ravioli.

Christmas Breakfast.... at HOME!

Spend Time With Your Family and Cook Ahead!


I've spent the year talking about where to go eat... so I thought I would use this blog to tell you to stay home and cook.

Merry Christmas.

A Christmas tradition at my house for as long as I can remember, is a Christmas morning brunch for all to enjoy, while those who decided to sleep in finally dragged themselves out of bed.

The main dish is prepared ahead and simply baked off, and the grits would go together in 10 minutes. When it was all hot, it could stay on the counter for hours next to a pot of hot coffee and cold orange juice. It just wouldn't be Christmas without it.

Unfortunatly, only 3 people on this earth have the recipe I am speaking of, so I scoured the trades for another that I though would be as good, and found the recipes below from author Tracey Koch. They are listed below... and look delish.

Enjoy a wonderful holiday... I'll see you right here in 2007.

André



Cinnamon Streusel Breakfast Bread Pudding with Warm Maple Syrup

Serves 6.

1 stick butter, melted
1 loaf French bread (cut into 1 1/2-inch slices)
4 large eggs
1 cup granulatedsugar
1/4 tsp. salt
3 cups whole or low-fat milk
2 tbls. vanilla
3/4 cup packed light brown sugar
1/4 cup chopped pecans, optional
2 tbls. ground cinnamon
Warm Butter Maple Syrup (recipe follows)


Warm Butter Maple Syrup
4 tbls. butter
1 cup maple syrup

1. Place the butter in a microwave-safe dish and heat on high for 30 to 40 seconds or until melted.
2. Add the maple syrup to the melted butter and heat another 20 to 30 seconds or until the mixture is heated through.


1. Brush the bottom and sides of a 9x13-inch baking pan with 2 tablespoons of the melted butter.
2. In a large mixing bowl, whisk the eggs until frothy.
3. Slowly add in the granulated sugar, salt, milk and vanilla and continue to whisk until all is incorporated.
4. In a smaller mixing bowl, combine brown sugar, pecans and cinnamon.
5. Arrange half of the French bread slices in the bottom of the prepared baking dish. (The bread should fit very close together, touching, but not overlapping.) Then brush the bread with 3 more tablespoons of melted butter.
6. Slowly pour half of the egg mixture evenly over the bread, making sure to coat each piece. Then sprinkle half of the cinnamon-sugar mixture over the top.
7. Repeat the steps ending with the streusel topping. Allow bread pudding to sit at least 2 hours or overnight, covered, in the refrigerator.
8. To bake, preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Remove the bread pudding from the refrigerator and allow it to come to room temperature.
9. Bake uncovered 45 to 50 minutes or until a knife inserted into the middle comes out clean and bread pudding is puffed and browned. Serve warm with Warm Butter Maple Syrup.
Kitchen helpers: Kids will be eager to help in buttering the bread slices and the pan, whisking the egg mixture and combining the streusel topping.


Sausage and Cheese Baked Grits

Serves 6.

1 lb. bulk breakfast sausage
4 cups water
1 cup grits
1/4 tsp. salt
1 tbl. butter
1/4 cup milk
3 ozs. cream cheese
2 cups shredded Cheddar cheese

1. In a large skillet, sauté the bulk sausage until browned well. Drain and set aside.
2. Bring water to a rolling boil and add salt.
3. Stir in grits and allow them to come back to a boil.
4. Reduce heat to medium low and continue to simmer until all of the water is gone, stirring occasionally to prevent sticking.
5. Remove from heat and add in the butter, milk, cream cheese and 1 cup of the Cheddar cheese. Mix until all of the cheese is melted.
6. Spray a 9x13-inch baking dish with nonstick cooking spray.
7. Fold the sausage into the cheese grits mixture and pour into the prepared baking dish. Top with the remaining cheese and cover. Place casserole into the refrigerator until ready to bake. (This dish can be made one day in advance.)
8. To bake, preheat the oven to 375 degrees and bake, covered, for 20 minutes. Remove cover and continue to bake 5 to 10 minutes or until cheese is melted and bubbly.

Kitchen helpers: Kids will be able to help in grating cheese, measuring the ingredients and mixing everything together.

Give New York For Christmas

It's Never Too Late To Send A Little NYC Cheer



Christmas is upon us. The tree at Rockefeller Plaza is glowing, skaters are skating and shoppers are frantic. Chestnuts are roasting on streetside carts… and folks like you and I are working to get that final gift or two off of our list.

Each year I make it a point to try and use local fare in my gift giving. When I was in Chicago, it was Garrett’s Popcorn. In Los Angeles, it was Dupar’s Pies. In Baton Rouge, it was boudin balls from Tony’s.

Now that I fancy myself a New Yorker, I have been researching my gift-giving options. In a city that offers so many amazing culinary treats, I thought I’d share with you some of my favorites… just in time for Christmas! If you need that one last special gift, click on the websites below. If not, keep this list handy next time you need that special something that says, “I live in New York, and you don’t”.

Merry Christmas everyone.



The Gift of Crazy-Good Chocolate
Jacques Torres Chocolate

As much as I love Lindt, Godiva, M & M’s… Jaques Torres just does it for me. His hot chocolate is the most decadent stuff I have ever tasted, but when I can’t get it I opt for his chocolate covered cherrios. Two (2) NYC locations including a post in Dumbo. www.mrchocolate.com

I Need My Bagels
H & H Bagels
Know a special someone who once lived in the Village, but now lives in Iowa? How about sending them a bag of warm, crusty bagels? As popular as H & H is locally, they claim to ship thousands of bagels across the country daily. I’ll have mine with some schmear. www.hhbagels.com

Send It All
Zabars
It may be one of the best kitchen/foodshops in the world, and it seems I hit them every year when I get stuck on what the hell to get someone.
The champion of gifts is the “Zabars is New York” box, which includes… ready?.... Zabar's Nova, kosher salami, pastrami, Zabar's deli mustard, Jewish rye bread, plain and scallion cream cheese, Zabar's chocolate babka, Lazzaroni Amaretti di Saronno cookies, a Lindt raspberry-filled chocolate bar, DiCamillo biscotti, Pernigotti moon and star Italian chocolates, Zabar's cinnamon rugelach, Betsy's Place chocolate chip cookies, New York cheddar cheese biscuits, assorted fresh-baked New York bagels, Le Trouvillais sables fruit cookies, a Zabar's coffee mug and a pound of Zabar's Blend ground coffee. You’ll be a stud. www.zabars.com

Send A Weiner
Schaller & Weber
Few places on earth warm my heart like Schaller & Weber, and I’ll tell you why. Homemade black forest hams, snap skin hot dogs, amazing salami, perfect brats and maybe the best selection of German mustard in NYC. A visit to this Upper East Side landmark is a joy, but when I can’t get there, I order online. www.schallerweber.com

Now Thatsa Pie!
Little Pie Company

When people think of NY pies, the usually think pizza, and not apple. But at this gem of a spot, real New Yorker know that the best pies in the city spring from these ovens. All of their pies are simply delicious… but make no mistake, the Sour Cream Apple Walnut is truly one of the best pies you’ll ever taste. www.littlepiecompany.com

What A Friend We Have In Cheeses
Murray’s Cheese
There was a time when ordering cheese mail order meant pecan logs and smoked gouda.
Thanks to establishments like Murray’s, New York’s most famous cheese purveyors, you can order nearly anything under the sun, and all of the goodies that go with. www.murrayscheese.com

Spread Love
Sarabeth’s
If you haven’t been to Sarabeth’s Central Park South restaurant, you’ve missed something special… warm breads with the city’s best jam.
Her signature Cloudberry is now an Aquavit favorite, but I still opt for her Peach-Apricot and Cherry-Plum, which are as good as they sound. Oh yea, her Budapest Bundt Cake is also fab.www.sarabeths.com

Moby Drinks Tea
Teany
I’m not sure what I like better… having tea at Teany in the East Village, or walking around the neighborhood when I am finished. Even though I fancy myself a coffee guy, the Earl Grey Crème is fantastic stuff, and you can now ship it to your favorite ex-New Yorker, and then brag about having lunch at Inoteca next door. www.teany.com

Spotlight on L.A. : Mario Travels West!

"Mozza" Collaboration Produces LA's Best Pizza, Period.


It was just a matter of time the look, feel and taste of a trendy NYC restaurant landed in Los Angeles… and low and behold, it’s arrived.

Sure, Nancy Silverton is well known for her stellar Campanile, but why did it take this long for partners Mario Batali and Joseph Bastianich to make their way west?

Whatever the reason, it has been worth the wait.


Mozza is truly a slice of heaven… and believe it or not, Nancy and Mario have reinvented the pizza.

Walking into Mozza, I immediately likened the room to something you might discover in the Grenwich Village area of New York. The lights are reminiscent of Mario’s OTTO, and the room painted boldly.

NOTE: For those of you wanting to experience Mozza soon, walk away from the computer now and call for a reservation… you’re gonna need it.

The menu at Mozza also reminds you of OTTO, except the dishes are wonderfully different. There are no pasta dishes at Mozza (the Osteria opens in a few months) but the menu is loaded with antipasti, insalate, sliced cured meats, bruschette, panini… and of course… incredible pizza.


Antipasti is far from normal at Mozza, with selections that range from crispy, delectable Fried Squash Bottoms with Ricotta… to more tradidtional Roasted Beets with Hazelnuts. Salad dishes are appealing, but with the delicious meats including Coppa, Lardo (made from the back of the pig and is prepared by first cutting the meat and treating the individual pieces with salt and spices such as cinnamon) and Proscuitto, as well as White Bean Bruschette… well, you need a bigger stomach.

As good as all this stuff is, the pizza is the star. One pizza is individual sized (cut into 4 nice sized pieces) but if you don’t order several and share, you’ll miss the boat.

At the top of the list you’ll find a simple tomato, olive oil and oregano version… and then it gets fantastic. Fennel sausage, panna and red onion…. Littleneck clams, garlic, oregano and cheese….Lambs quarters with cacao di roma…. Long cooked broccoli, caciocavallo and pepperocini…. Lardo, rosemary and olive oil… spicy salami, mozzarella and chilis…. and the list goes on and on.


I wish I could liken this pizza to another, but honestly it isn’t quite like anything I have ever had. The toppings are well seasoned and perfect.. and the tomato sauce sweetened unmistakably by San Marzano tomatoes… but the crust is magnificent. Imagine a two layered thin and crispy/chewy pastry dough. Not to tough… and just the right balance of flavor to hold what’s on top. It’s unique… and downright delicious.
I am giddy that Mozza has opened to such acclaim, and even happier that I’ll have a taste of NYC while on business here in LA… I only wish they’d open one on the Upper West Side!

Enjoy Mozza. It’s a gem of a spot that will certainly become a LA mainstay.

2006 FORKIES: The Best Of New York

Well, it’s that time of year. The leaves are falling, holiday decorations are appearing and the last month of the year is upon us.

About this time every year I open up my Outlook calendar and review exactly what I’ve done and where I’ve been. I’m always amazed by the amount of stuff I have checked off my list… and the amount of it I have forgotten about.

But one thing I love to do is reflect on the fun stuff… and compile a list of favorites.

In honor of the more popular award shows… I hereby present my 2006 “Forkies” … the very best (in my humble opinion) of New York spread over many different categories.

And the FORKIE goes to…..



SALAD OF THE YEAR
Parsley and Pancetta Salad, Lupa
It is tremendous in its composition… but when the waiter comes to the table with a rendered pot of hot bacon fat, well, it really doesn’t get any better. This dish rotates on and off the menu, so if you visit and it doesn’t appear… complain!

PASTA DISH OF THE YEAR
Black Tagliatelle with Roasted Corn, Babbo
Part of the pasta tasting menu, this amazing dish if simply the best pasta dish in NYC. The freshness of the corn with the light sauce and grated cheese are a work of art. Make a reservation… you’re gonna need it.

BEST STEAK HOUSE FOR 2006
Quality Meats
I know, I know… Lugar’s. But the truth is as great as Peter Lugar’s is; the experience is old school NYC. I love it, but I truly love an evening at Quality Meats, an operation run by the Smith and Wollensky folks. Details?... how about tableside BBQ sauce and individual homemade pies for desert?

SUSHI SPOT
Mamoya
It’s situated in a busy Chelsea neighborhood, but don’t let its simple setting fool you. The room is hip, and the food is fresh and delicate… Nobu style. Except, the check is about half of what you might expect.

BEST EGG DISH
Café Lalo
I know. It’s crowded. Touristy. But the steamed eggs with Brie are the best in the city, and the artisan breads are baked in house. I’d love to complain, but the food is too damn good.

BEST SCOTTISH BEER SELECTION
St. Andrews Pub
There is something about a bunch of guys wearing kilts. Not only are the bartenders authentic, the tap includes a selection of beer that draws a huge crowd of European alcoholics. For me, I belly up to the bar and drink as much Tennants Lager as I can muster.

BEST CUP CAKE…. REALLY.
Two Little Red Hens Bakery
The cup cake thing has really spiraled out of control, and mostly with hype. Having tried all of the “popular” spots, I finally had what is hands down the most amazing cupcake in NYC at Two Little Red Hens Bakery, on Second Ave on the Upper East Side. Sure their Brooklyn locale is well known, but the Manhattan spot is no less popular, and with decadent carrot cake cupcakes, I can see why.

BEST BARGIN BAR FOOD
Del Frisco’s
I have been talking about it all year, so I won’t beat a dead horse. Just go. Order a martini. Order the steak tips (which are filet mignon heaped over a mound of homemade mashed potatoes). Call and thank me later.

BEST NEW FRENCH BISTRO
Café D’alsace
Top Notch food. Great wine. Superior setting. The folks who bring you Nice Matin bring you NY’s best new French hang, on the lovely Upper East. You’ll love this place.

BEST THROWBACK HOTEL BAR
Sir Harry’s, Waldorf Astoria
Ever find yourself wanting to hide in a dark mahogany bar at 2:30 in the afternoon? This is your place. You can hear the ghosts in here, and they still love the place. Splurge, you’re worth it.

BEST MUSIC VENUE
The Allen Room, Time Warner Center
Part of the Jazz at Lincoln Center Complex, this is hands down the most remarkable setting in NYC to listen to live music. The view over Central Park through the glass-draped stage doesn’t hurt, either.

BEST HAMBURGER YOU CAN'T FIT INTO YOUR MOUTH AROUND
Jackson Hole
Sure, you think you can eat it. You pick it up, close your eyes and try and shove it in. But, trust me, it won’t fit. These are 4 inch tall patties, steam grilled to your liking… and delish. You can always find a better burger… but this one should be on your short list.

BEST SANDWICH, NOT FROM CARNAGIE, KATZ’S or ARTIES
Toasties Deli
This was a hard one, as I love classic deli sandwiches. But every time I eat a sandwich from Toasties I find myself saying… this may very well be the best sandwich in NYC. And now I am convinced, it is. The House Combo and Downtown Special are unreal… and why this place doesn’t have 5 locations in the city is a real headscratcher.

BEST COZY WINE BAR
Bin 71
Is it the food? The great beers? The superb wine list? Well, yes… I guess it is. If only I can get a seat at the damn bar. The Upper West Side never had it so good.

BEST CHEESE PLATE
Otto
Come on, you know it’s true. Mario gets it, and he delivers at Otto with a selection of cheese accompanied by three dipping opportunities for the stuff… including honey and truffles. I think I have stolen more stuff off of his menu for my own home entertaining than any place in NYC.

BEST STREET MEAT
Halal Cart, 53rd and 6th
So we all know about this place now, and the line down the block is legendary… but for good reason. The chicken and rice is the best deal in town… and the tangy white garlic/tahini/yogurt sauce they squirt across the top is downright illegal.

BEST CRAM INTO YOUR MOUTH SUGAR FIX
Beard Papa’s
Is there anyone who doesn’t love a good creampuff? Beard Pap’s popped up early in the year, and now boast and UWS locale as well. The puffs are baked hot and fresh, and the cream squirted inside the thing while you wait. Unfortunately, I have problems getting these home.

BEST PULLED PORK SANDWICH
Dinosaur BBQ
It’s a funky spot you need to visit for the hell of it anyway, but don’t be fooled… some of the grub here is quality stuff, and the pulled pork qualifies as best in it’s category. It’s slow roasted tender, and with their tangy and slightly spicy sauce and pickles, is a throwback to a sandwich you might find in South Carolina….

BEST UNIQUE DUMPLINGS
Wu Liang Ye
They have terrific dishes… including great noodles… but lets not beat around the bush. The Sichuan Pork Dumplings with Roasted Chili Vinaigrette are worth a cab ride across town.

BEST BUDGET PLATE
Neptune Polish Diner
Sure they have diner food here, but why would you eat it when you can order a plate of sauerkraut and mushroom pierogies with sour cream for $5.85? By the way, their red borsht is the best you’ll ever eat.

BEST BLOW OUT DINNER
Alain Ducasse at the Essex House
OK, so I didn’t pay the bill here… but if I would have had too, I would be working a second job rather than writing this blog. It’s snobby, pretentious and frilly… but remarkable in everyway. Note: Alain is moving this spot downtown as we speak….

BEST SUNDAY AFTERNOON MALL HANG
Bouchon Bakery, Time Warner Center
As much as I love Chelsea Market, I love the specialty sandwiches and wines by the glass. And oh yea, other than something out of the deli at Whole Foods (in the basement), it’s the only place I actually afford to eat while shopping in the Time Warner Center.

BEST CRUSTY BAGEL
Tal
We all have our favorite bagel joints, and this one is mine. They are everything you would expect from a perfect Manhattan bagel… warm and chewy on the inside… crusty on the outside. Add their amazing flat bagels (sesame for me) and you get the perfect breakfast. Or lunch. Or whenever.

BEST HOT CHOCOLATE
Jacques Torres
It’s no secret that one of the best chocolate makers in the world resides in NYC… but what many don’t know is that he also makes the best Hot Chocolate known to man. The powered mix, lumped full of chunks of gourmet chocolate should be a required addition to every New York kitchen.

BEST SCOTCH AND CIGAR
Hudson Bar and Books
I know… it’s the size of my closet… but where else in the city can you sip a scotch older than your brother while enjoying a Romeo and Juliet? Skip the food here… this place is meant to smoke.

BEST PASTA AND CIGAR
Florio’s
I still don’t understand how Florio’s can legally allow folks in the bar to smoke, drink and eat… but they do. I don’t ask questions. Recommended: anything in their vodka sauce.

BEST BUBBLE TEA
Ten Ren Café, Chinatown
You can get bubble tea almost anywhere these days… but this location of Ten Ren offers a frozen variety with giant gooey bubbles. Yum.

BEST FAST FOOD
Chipotle
Yes, the novelty is beginning to wear off… but the truth remains that Chipotle offers fresh, hot food for very few $$.

So….. there you have it! The 2006 FORKIES. Grab the Pepto and get going!

Dining With The Turks at Zeytin

Could the Best Turkish Food in NYC Actually On The Upper West?



I am an international man of mystery.

Not in my adventures, but my culinary tastes.

Sure, I’ve had the chance to travel to some 30 countries… and I’ve never been shy about trying the local fare (no monkey brains for me, thanks). But what I’ve never been able to figure out is how I can love the food of one nation and really hate the food of another.

One cuisine I love is Turkish. Maybe because it’s closely linked to Lebanese, or Israeli… or Persian… or maybe because I love the “meze” style of eating the stuff. No matter how much I eat… I never get tired of this food.

My recent obsession of falafel has led me to start exploring the gabillion offerings here in NYC, and low and behold I found one of the best Turkish offerings in my own Upper West Side neighborhood… a true gem named “Zeytin”.

Zeytin as a word means “olive” in Turkish… but in this incarnation means fantastic food.

I found myself at the restaurant on a cool but not freezing November night… and opted for a table outdoors… a patio we would have to ourselves. We began with a cocktail (uber large martinis poured happily) but could have easily ordered a glass of wine from a solid but unspectacular wine list. All is well.

Making food choices at Zeytin can prove challenging. The truth is, the cold and hot appetizers are so terrific, you can (and next time we will) make a meal of them by themselves.

Wanting a large sample, we ordered the mixed plate of cold meze and were blown away. The hummus was top shelf… rich and flavorful with the perfect balance of chick pea and tahini. Along side was a bowl of tangy Cocik… a thick yogurt sauce with diced cucumbers and garlic. On the plate as well was maybe my favorite, Hoydari… a scoop of thick strained yogurt with dill, mint and garlic… as well as delicate grape leaves stuffed with rice, pine nuts, black currants and herbs… and eggplant salad, grilled smoky and mixed with fresh tomatoes. Terrific.

If it sounds like a lot of food, well, it is. And coupled with the numerous slices of delicious homemade flat bread, we were getting full. But of course, we had ordered dinner, so we decided to tighten our belts and move ahead.

The main courses at Zeytin and well prepared, and beautifully presented. A mild (almost bland) stuffed chicken breast arrived filled with rice, pistachios, peppers and currants. It was a nice dish, but didn’t quite live up to the quality of the meze we had experienced.

That said, the second entrée did. Iskender, a dish of roasted lamb and beef, served atop crispy pipe bread, topped with a spicy tomato sauce with browned butter and yogurt was terrific. The meats were tender, and the dish was a perfect blend of Turkish flavors. Highly recommended.

Of course there are salads, hot apps, desserts… but the experience I would recommend is this.

1. Call someone you like.
2. Find a cozy table at Zeytin.
3. Order a bottle of wine.
4. Order the Mixed App Plate, and a few hot apps.
5. Skip dinner (unless you are a big eater, then split a chicken shish)
6. Split a wonderful dessert
7. Enjoy a brisk evening walk in a charming Upper West Side neighborhood.



That’s the word. Zeytin. An true gem, and simply fantastic stuff.



Zeytin
519 Columbus Ave- At 85th St
New York, NY 10024

212 579-1145

Andre's Secret: Bin 71

Sip, Nibble and Be As Hip As You Wanna Be


I hate to even write this.

It seems every time I stumble across what I would call a “gem”, I open my big mouth, and the word gets out. Not that I can take responsibility for setting culinary trends in this fair city mind you, but I do know that enough people read this blog to spark some chatter (or so my email tells me)… or at least drive someone to a plate of fried chicken somewhere. But good is good, and I just can’t keep this one to myself.

So in lieu of keeping the marvelous secret to myself, I hereby blog, Bin 71.

Where to start.

Bin 71 is everything that makes New York great (did I just write that campy little nugget?).

It’s a wine spot with terrific vintages and surprisingly good and hard to find beers on tap (think Blue Point, Double Chocolate Stout and hearty German Pils).

It’s a cozy meeting place to meet your “other” and never be seen.

It’s a gourmet hang with small plates of crudités and large bowls of spicy stew.

It’s a plate of toasted Tuscan bread smothered in warm Nutella chocolate.

All of this, and only 22 seats. 10 of which I would call rather cramped.


You see, Bin 71 is a tiny, charming space that may be the size of your living room (if that). When you enter you realize… the space is about 12 feet deep, and about 25 feet wide.

Around the handsome bar are Sunday afternoon regulars, sipping wine, reading the paper in utter sophistication… commenting on the topics of the day… over a glass of Malbec. This is heaven.

No college rats, no fluff. Neighborhood folks, doing their thing.

It is the spot the tourists seek but never find, the place you can convince yourself that you and you alone discovered.

And where is it?

Well, the surprising fact is, it is an Upper West Side hang. Yup. Really.

You’ll walk in and snicker for sure, as it looks and feels about as West Village as a place can look… if not Nolita. But sure thing, it is a UWS joint, tucked in an unassuming block of Columbus between 70 and 71.

Here comes the bad news.

The place has been open a while. Which means, unless you are targeting an off-peak visit, you are going to have trouble getting a seat. Folks like to hang out here, and waiting for a seat to open up can take a while.

Attached to the outer walls of Bin 71 are small counters and stools, but there is no mystery… the bar boasts the most coveted seats in the house. This place is s-m-a-l-l.

Is it worth it??

Well yes, it is.

My Sunday afternoon visit was maybe the best weekend “re-set” I’ve had in months. For those of you with stressful jobs, you know all about weekend resets. That moment when you can put the week behind you, toast your partner and think of bigger and better things. You forget the parents, the pesky unassuming neighbors, the late subway train, the line at Dunkin Donuts.

Places like Bin 71 are made for just the occasion. Or just about any occasion when you need to hunt down a tiny, charming space… and escape to New York.


Bin 71
237 Columbus at 71st
Daily until 1am

Dinner and a Show: Thalia Shines In Midtown

Steps to Broadway, And A World of Choice



There is something magical about a pre-show dinner in New York’s Theatre District.

Having served up about a 20 million of these, most of the restaurants have the thing down to a science. They know how many drinks you can have, when you should be ordering, and how much time you might have for desert... to get you into your seats on time.

I’ve had many a pre-show meal down there… including the solid Orso, the mostly disappointing Ruby Foo’s (great martinis can bring you back) and the touristy Osteria al Doge.

But one of my true favorites happens to be Thalia.

Thalia is the quintessential date place. What’s that mean? Well, there is a lot of eye candy in the hip, midtown design… and the food is even better.

My first trip to Thalia was last year, and I had no date. Working in NYC I found myself yearning for a bachelor theatre night, and had scored a front row ticket to Spelling Bee, one of the more fun evenings on Broadway.

With an hour to curtain and a cigar in my pocket, I landed steps away from the theatre at Thalia on the patio… sipped a martini, lit my cigar, and munched on a duet of yellow fin tuna sashimi and tuna tartare. For a quick entrée I had two delish crabcakes (more crab than crumbs to my surprise) and for desert, a terrific banana tart.

Sold.

A few months later I was back, this time with my lovely wife at my side, and those same Spelling Bee tickets. Yes, I like the show that much.

This trip to Thalia had spanned the season and seen the chilly patio close, exposing the cozy, classic interior space as the true star of the show.

With reservation in hand, we were seated in less than a minute. Once at the table, I began to remember just how much I had enjoyed my last visit.

Having enjoyed my patio visit, this meal also started with the tuna and crabcake apps I remembered… but also included dinner choices as I planned my time a bit more diligently.

Cheese selections are a great albeit pricy option at Thalia, but the entrees shine.

The pastas are simple, well rounded… and flavorful. The spaghetti is a basic tomato and basil dish… wile the Mushroom Ravioli a more complex creation with asparagus and porcini truffles.

Meats are wonderfully prepared and include a fine double cut pork chop that I found filling. Also available is a Seared Duck Breast, Braised Lamb Shank and a Grilled Filet of Beef, with a black truffle sauce. All solid.

Fish lovers won’t be disappointed, as the traditional bistro salmon and halibut make an appearance… but even better is the broad choice of fresh oysters from the raw bar. Littleneck clams shine here… and the jumbo shrimp cocktail can hang with most in the city. I have found all of the seafood here to be very fresh.

Yes, the food is good and can occasionally be very good. But the vote of confidence here is for the night.

A classic place, a good menu and a great bar.

Followed by a great show, and I think you have the recipe for a near perfect theatre evening in NYC.

Enjoy Thalia. And oh yea, if you haven’t seen Spelling Bee, do yourself a favor and get a ticket while nearly the entire original cast remains on Broadway. This is a charming night of theatre, appropriate for just about all audiences.

See you in the Theatre District!



Thalia

828 8th Ave, New York 10019
At 50th St

Phone: 212-399-4444

SushiSamba 7 - Funky In The Village

Rock Solid For West Village Hipsters, But Still Worth The $$ ?



I love trekking down to the West Village for eats. My 15 minute subway ride feels like a world apart from the sleepier Upper West Side.

I always tell people that my heart lives in the Village, and my wallet lives on the Upper West Side. So, trips downtown are essential for me… and I love to venture down and chow.

I have several favorites…. German grub at Leiderhosen, cheese shopping at Murray’s, a grandma slice at Bleeker Street Pizza, free range chicken fingers from Dirty Bird… you get the picture…..

Recently, a friend suggested we meet in the neighborhood, and I tossed out a joint that has always intrigued me. I’ve had several quality meals there… but the items can be hit or miss… so I thought I’d take a moment to set you straight on the colorful sushi hang, Sushi Samba 7.


First, the place is full of good looking folks. Nearly any night of the week there is a crowd, and for good reason. The drinks are great, the food solid and the atmosphere a little stuffy look at me-me. Ah, New York.

I’ve certainly had better sushi and Brazilian and South American food in NYC… but with a rooftop patio and sliding walls in the main dining room, the place feels connected with the city…. which is always a good thing.

Reservations are a good idea here, and even with them, you’ll likely wait. We waited nearly an hour for changing our 4 top to a 3 top (are you kidding me?) and were rewarded with a plate of gratis calamari. It was average stuff, and all kidding aside, I’ll take getting seated on time.

The room was packed on this Tuesday evening, and the bar was hopping. Good news for those who must wait…. as the bar has some great signature drinks and a killer wine list. Maybe next time I’ll ask for a glass of pino while I wait....

At the table, the dishes come recommended by the wait staff. Having eaten there on a few occasions, I was curious what exactly would be recommended, and sure enough, it was all the stuff I had last time. Seems that the wait staff knows what people like, and would rather please for the nice tip then send anyone up the wrong road. Pity.

So, the solid stuff on the menu?

Easy.


The great stuff: Tuna Sashimi Tiradito with green apple and red jalapeño. The Green Envy Roll encrusted with wasabi peas, filled with tuna, salmon, asparagus and key lime mayo. The miso Chilean Sea Bass, which seems to find it’s way onto every table in the place. And the basic Churrasco, with ribeye, pork and linguia sausage. Tasty, but by no means real Churrasco.

As mentioned above, the wine list is terrific. There is a wine cellar downstairs, next to what may be the swankiest bathrooms in the West Village. Complete with attendant.

If you are a sushi hound, you’ll find a good selection of stuff you really like, for a price. If sushi isn’t your thing, there are still items to choose (meats, rock shrimp, beef maki) but none of them will have you calling friends and family. Solid, unspectacular stuff.

Sushi Samba is still about the scene. Hip, urban, noisy. Good bar.

You can likely save some cash by dropping by before dinner down the street for a bowl of edamame and a Caipirinha. Or after, for a Choco Loco (trust me on this one) and the warm chocolate banana cake.

Oh yea, now we talkin baby.


SushiSamba 7
Japanese, Sushi, Brazilian, South American

87 7th Ave S, New York 10014
Btwn Grove & Barrow St

Phone: 212-691-7885

Because It’s 3am, and You Need to Eat

Dress to Impress and Suggest One Of These Gems....




Greetings food lovers.

I write this email only 24 hours away from a quick blast to South Louisiana for a much needed 72 hour escape.

For me, it’s a trip home… but compared to the rest of you who have made this pilgrimage, it’s usually about the same thing… food.

Silly to think that I’ve already pegged most of my meals, calling ahead to confirm that my favorites are still there. But when you have soooo little time and so many things to gobble, I see nothing wrong with a little planning.

Curious?

I’ll start my afternoon at Georges, the legendary lounge under the Perkins Road overpass in Baton Rouge. I’ll order the best fried shrimp poboy known to man, with a loaf of onion rings and an ice cold Miller Lite (The State Beer of Louisiana).

Two hours later, I’ll stop by Fleur De Leis for a Round The World pizza (maybe the best pizza in the US?) and another Miller Lite, served in a tiny chilled glass. Note: I am now pacing myself.

By 5:30, I’ll be at the bar at Mansuers, ordering a dozen Grilled Oysters, freshly shucked, swimming in butter, garlic, herbs and cheese, bubbling over an open grill until fully cooked, served with a hot loaf of French bread. Life is good.

By this time, I’m having a draft Abita.

Dinner at this point is a mystery, although I’m sure I’ll wind up at Coffee Call for beignets and café au lait.

Uh, that’s just Friday.

Anyway, my blog this week is in response to a NY Times piece that ran this week, joyously highlighting all night eateries in the city. As good as the piece was, it didn’t include reviews of these spots… so I thought I’d review their list, and fill you in on the places that would be worth staying up for.

Here we go.

Open Until 2am

Andre’s Pick

La Esquina (serving tacos until 5am)

The dining room may close at 2am, but the tacos are worth getting out of bed for. Try the biztec or the Cochinita (pulled pork)… and be amazed. The tortillas are homemade corn, and this may be the most authentic taco this side of Mexico City.

Second Choice:

Pastis
Sure, it’s pretentious. And sure, you may wait for a table. But that said, there is nothing wrong with noshing on a Croque-Monsieur after midnight, especially if you can wash it down with a flute of Veuve-Clicquot.

Open Until 3 am

Andre’s Pick

‘Inoteca

Those who know me know that this is one of my favorite haunts in NYC. The fact that its on the Lower East makes it uber cool. The wines are terrific, the panini perfect and the polpette just like mama use to make. But lets be honest… is there a better dish on the Lower east than the Truffle Egg Toast with Bottarga? I think not.

Second Choice:
None… unless you need to spy on the beautiful people across the street at THOR.

Open Until 4 am

Andre’s Pick

Employees Only
My first trip here was in fact at 3:30 am, and it warmed my heart to see a joint packed from wall to wall… with people munching on crepes, sushi, fried oysters and fish tacos. Yup, its that kinda of place… few rules and a lot of fun. The fact that nearly every table featured a chain smoker who was using a salad plate as an ashtray should tell you of the kind of tension release that happens on a nightly basis.

Second Choice:

Blue Ribbon
Why? Because, Andre needs his collard greens at 4am. He also needs his salt and pepper shrimp, fried chicken, spicy catfish and roasted duck club sandwich. Leave room for a banana split... and be prepared to call in sick tomorrow, you’re gonna need to sleep this one off.


Have fun. Stay up late. Eat out. It’s New York.

In Case You Missed It….. Again

You do your thing, and I'll Keep You Fed





Hi there friends… welcome to fall.

Not sure of the temps in your town, but here in NYC fall has arrived. The leaves in Central Park are gaining color, people are wearing heavier clothes, and coffee shops are thriving. It won't be long before the ice skates are coming out of storage in Rockefeller Plaza. I love this place.

Fall always means a shift in the restaurant scene here in NYC, as many of the outdoor patio locations transform themselves back into sidewalks… and the once romantic, crammed indoor spots return. Street vendors warm themselves over their grills and people have complete swearing fits as 10 degree wind chills cut through them like a knife. What joy.

Much happening here as always, and I'm on the beat keeping you in the game.

In case you missed it, here are a few items of note this week in the NYC food scene:


Still Da Bomb
You don’t have to feel like a total tourist to stop into Café Lalo on the UWS. Sure, it was the spot of a noteworthy scene from the sappy film “You’ve Got Mail”, and yes, the trees are adorned with Christmas lights… But truth be told, their steamed eggs are terrific, artisan breads and cheeses fresh… and desserts spectacular. Throw in top notch coffee (stay away from mixed drinks here, stick with wine or bubbly) and you’ve got a joint that you could steal a heart in. Until 4am. 83rd and Amsterdam

Call U-Haul
Word on the street is that Chef sensation Alain Ducasse is moving his restaurant from the Essex House… somewhere downtown. With the Time Warner Center down the street, I can’t say that the neighborhood will miss yet another $200 prix fixe joint, but as history shows, wherever Ducasse's restaurants land, people will follow. Location TBD

Waste of Time
I’m not one to slam restaurants, as this blog has always served as a celebration of food. But when I have a meal that is really very very poor and terribly overpriced, I must speak out. You’ll find this meal and others at the amazingly tired China Grill, located in midtown. The outrageous prices might be able to justify themselves if in fact the food was ok… but it is simply horrible. The $20 crabcakes contained no crab, the $36 skirt steak was chewy and cold, the noodle dishes mushy and overcooked and the bill, $60 too high. Do yourself a favor and opt for Wu Liang Ye on West 48th. The noodles are amazing, the dumplings the best north of Chinatown, and you won’t break the bank. Life is too short to eat crap like that served at China Grill (maybe they need a few Chinese people on the grill) 53rd btw 5th and 6th

Because You Need Your Weiner
After weeks of panic, I am happy to report the my German friends at the happening sausage cart HALLO BERLIN are back and in business at 54th and 5th street. If you haven’t had a homemade sausage off of this cart, you don’t know what you are missing…

The boys carry nearly 10 different types of sausages in a variety of offerings as well as meatballs. Oh yea, you also can get a real crusty roll, 2 types of kraut, amazing sautéed onions and homemade mustard. Yes, there is a line... but the good things come to those who wait. 54th at 5th Ave




Is The World Coming To An End?
I asked myself this question when last week I saw something completely out of place… an organized menu at YIP’S, the midtown get-your-food-in-30-seconds Chinese joint. The boys in the back have drafted a new menu, and don’t make everything everyday, so plan accordingly. That said, the Garlic Chicken is still great, the egg rolls hot (and not greasy) and the noodles cheap and delish. It’s a load of food for only $5 bucks and remains one of the areas better deals. And I can get there from my desk in less than 3 minutes, depending on the elevator traffic. 52nd btw 5th and 6th

Konnichiwa from the Upper West

Matsu... close your eyes and imagine the Ginza



There are few places in the world that fascinate me more than Japan.

Observing their society became a sincere hobby of mine a few years ago when I was working their fairly regularly… and to this day, I marvel with the efficiency they manage the 12,369,000 people that live in Tokyo alone. It is a mixture of technology and tradition, where glass and chrome skyscrapers neighbor Shinto Shrines centuries old. It is pop culture on steroids… it is soft spoken women in hand made kimonos.


Imagine how popular my 6’2, 280 pound frame was walking down the streets of Shinjuku. In the land of sumo giants, I heard more than my share of gasps and giggles. They must have thought… “now that is one big ass American”.

I love that.

Truth be told, my first experience in Tokyo wasn’t different from the breakout movie “Lost in Translation”. I was a guest at the Park Hyatt (same hotel), marveled at the view (Mt. Fuji) and could never fall asleep. High atop the Park Hyatt is the New York Bar which really does host American entertainment, including jazz friends of mine from the west coast. I spent a lot of time there. Watching the film was eerie and the insomnia all too real.

That said, sleepless nights fed my hunger to learn the local cuisine… and I fell in love with many different styles of Japanese cooking (at all hours of the night)… including shabu-shabu and robato grilled meats.

But one “fast favorite” of mine became a dish known as katsu-don… or pork cutlet over rice.

The dish sounds simple, and it is… but the flavors are unique and addictive. First, you start with a bowl of hot steaming Japanese white rice. On top, you place a fried pork cutlet, sliced into strips, with an egg (scrambled into the cutlet after frying) and top it all with a sauce that is sweet and salty in nature. The dish now gets sprinkled with fresh chopped green onions and presto; the perfect katsu-don.

As far as origin, the dish takes its name from the Japanese words tonkatsu (for pork cutlet) and donburi (for rice bowl dish). It has become a modern ritual tradition for Japanese students to eat katsudon the night before taking a major test or school entrance exam… and for tourists like me who need to warm up to fairly familiar cuisine before jumping of the deep end and eating something I can name or recognize.
There is an art to making this stuff…. mainly in the skill of breading the cutlet in panko (japanese bread crumbs) and the addition of the egg. The sauces can also vary from a typical katsu-type sauce (imagine a worcestershire thing) to a demi-glace, to a soy based and even miso.

So, no two katsu-dons are alike.

In NYC, you can grab a bowl of this stuff nearly anywhere good Japanese food is sold, making the city pilgrimage a fun one. Where do I order my next katsu-don??

One place that gets it right (as well as all of their food) is Matsu… located on Columbus between 83 & 84 on NY’s Upper West Side.

Matsu is the quintessential NYC Japanese dive… and their food resonates in an authenticity unique to Tokyo. Sure you can find the things you expect… crispy Gyoza, Beef Negimaki, perfect sushi and sashimi…. but you’ll also find blue collar dishes like soba and udon noodle dishes, delicately fried oysters and a perfect Chilean Sea Bass.

I try not to mention Matsu to many people in an effort to not expose this gem of a find… as I can still get a table at 7:30 on a week night. But alas, ForkNY calls, and the cat is now out of the bag.

Matsu offers a pork and chicken version of katsu-don, and both are terrific. But if you can't get to Matsu, I highly recommend you look for the dish at your local dive. If it’s not on the menu, I can almost promise you they'll make a version for you… as when they take their meal breaks…. they're more often than not eating it.

Matsu ($$$)
Japanese, Sushi

483 Columbus Ave, New York 10024
Btwn 83rd & 84th St

Phone: 212-799-7922
Fax: 212-799-8597