Tuesday, October 24, 2006

SushiSamba 7 - Funky In The Village

Rock Solid For West Village Hipsters, But Still Worth The $$ ?



I love trekking down to the West Village for eats. My 15 minute subway ride feels like a world apart from the sleepier Upper West Side.

I always tell people that my heart lives in the Village, and my wallet lives on the Upper West Side. So, trips downtown are essential for me… and I love to venture down and chow.

I have several favorites…. German grub at Leiderhosen, cheese shopping at Murray’s, a grandma slice at Bleeker Street Pizza, free range chicken fingers from Dirty Bird… you get the picture…..

Recently, a friend suggested we meet in the neighborhood, and I tossed out a joint that has always intrigued me. I’ve had several quality meals there… but the items can be hit or miss… so I thought I’d take a moment to set you straight on the colorful sushi hang, Sushi Samba 7.


First, the place is full of good looking folks. Nearly any night of the week there is a crowd, and for good reason. The drinks are great, the food solid and the atmosphere a little stuffy look at me-me. Ah, New York.

I’ve certainly had better sushi and Brazilian and South American food in NYC… but with a rooftop patio and sliding walls in the main dining room, the place feels connected with the city…. which is always a good thing.

Reservations are a good idea here, and even with them, you’ll likely wait. We waited nearly an hour for changing our 4 top to a 3 top (are you kidding me?) and were rewarded with a plate of gratis calamari. It was average stuff, and all kidding aside, I’ll take getting seated on time.

The room was packed on this Tuesday evening, and the bar was hopping. Good news for those who must wait…. as the bar has some great signature drinks and a killer wine list. Maybe next time I’ll ask for a glass of pino while I wait....

At the table, the dishes come recommended by the wait staff. Having eaten there on a few occasions, I was curious what exactly would be recommended, and sure enough, it was all the stuff I had last time. Seems that the wait staff knows what people like, and would rather please for the nice tip then send anyone up the wrong road. Pity.

So, the solid stuff on the menu?

Easy.


The great stuff: Tuna Sashimi Tiradito with green apple and red jalapeño. The Green Envy Roll encrusted with wasabi peas, filled with tuna, salmon, asparagus and key lime mayo. The miso Chilean Sea Bass, which seems to find it’s way onto every table in the place. And the basic Churrasco, with ribeye, pork and linguia sausage. Tasty, but by no means real Churrasco.

As mentioned above, the wine list is terrific. There is a wine cellar downstairs, next to what may be the swankiest bathrooms in the West Village. Complete with attendant.

If you are a sushi hound, you’ll find a good selection of stuff you really like, for a price. If sushi isn’t your thing, there are still items to choose (meats, rock shrimp, beef maki) but none of them will have you calling friends and family. Solid, unspectacular stuff.

Sushi Samba is still about the scene. Hip, urban, noisy. Good bar.

You can likely save some cash by dropping by before dinner down the street for a bowl of edamame and a Caipirinha. Or after, for a Choco Loco (trust me on this one) and the warm chocolate banana cake.

Oh yea, now we talkin baby.


SushiSamba 7
Japanese, Sushi, Brazilian, South American

87 7th Ave S, New York 10014
Btwn Grove & Barrow St

Phone: 212-691-7885

Thursday, October 19, 2006

Because It’s 3am, and You Need to Eat

Dress to Impress and Suggest One Of These Gems....




Greetings food lovers.

I write this email only 24 hours away from a quick blast to South Louisiana for a much needed 72 hour escape.

For me, it’s a trip home… but compared to the rest of you who have made this pilgrimage, it’s usually about the same thing… food.

Silly to think that I’ve already pegged most of my meals, calling ahead to confirm that my favorites are still there. But when you have soooo little time and so many things to gobble, I see nothing wrong with a little planning.

Curious?

I’ll start my afternoon at Georges, the legendary lounge under the Perkins Road overpass in Baton Rouge. I’ll order the best fried shrimp poboy known to man, with a loaf of onion rings and an ice cold Miller Lite (The State Beer of Louisiana).

Two hours later, I’ll stop by Fleur De Leis for a Round The World pizza (maybe the best pizza in the US?) and another Miller Lite, served in a tiny chilled glass. Note: I am now pacing myself.

By 5:30, I’ll be at the bar at Mansuers, ordering a dozen Grilled Oysters, freshly shucked, swimming in butter, garlic, herbs and cheese, bubbling over an open grill until fully cooked, served with a hot loaf of French bread. Life is good.

By this time, I’m having a draft Abita.

Dinner at this point is a mystery, although I’m sure I’ll wind up at Coffee Call for beignets and café au lait.

Uh, that’s just Friday.

Anyway, my blog this week is in response to a NY Times piece that ran this week, joyously highlighting all night eateries in the city. As good as the piece was, it didn’t include reviews of these spots… so I thought I’d review their list, and fill you in on the places that would be worth staying up for.

Here we go.

Open Until 2am

Andre’s Pick

La Esquina (serving tacos until 5am)

The dining room may close at 2am, but the tacos are worth getting out of bed for. Try the biztec or the Cochinita (pulled pork)… and be amazed. The tortillas are homemade corn, and this may be the most authentic taco this side of Mexico City.

Second Choice:

Pastis
Sure, it’s pretentious. And sure, you may wait for a table. But that said, there is nothing wrong with noshing on a Croque-Monsieur after midnight, especially if you can wash it down with a flute of Veuve-Clicquot.

Open Until 3 am

Andre’s Pick

‘Inoteca

Those who know me know that this is one of my favorite haunts in NYC. The fact that its on the Lower East makes it uber cool. The wines are terrific, the panini perfect and the polpette just like mama use to make. But lets be honest… is there a better dish on the Lower east than the Truffle Egg Toast with Bottarga? I think not.

Second Choice:
None… unless you need to spy on the beautiful people across the street at THOR.

Open Until 4 am

Andre’s Pick

Employees Only
My first trip here was in fact at 3:30 am, and it warmed my heart to see a joint packed from wall to wall… with people munching on crepes, sushi, fried oysters and fish tacos. Yup, its that kinda of place… few rules and a lot of fun. The fact that nearly every table featured a chain smoker who was using a salad plate as an ashtray should tell you of the kind of tension release that happens on a nightly basis.

Second Choice:

Blue Ribbon
Why? Because, Andre needs his collard greens at 4am. He also needs his salt and pepper shrimp, fried chicken, spicy catfish and roasted duck club sandwich. Leave room for a banana split... and be prepared to call in sick tomorrow, you’re gonna need to sleep this one off.


Have fun. Stay up late. Eat out. It’s New York.

Saturday, October 07, 2006

In Case You Missed It….. Again

You do your thing, and I'll Keep You Fed





Hi there friends… welcome to fall.

Not sure of the temps in your town, but here in NYC fall has arrived. The leaves in Central Park are gaining color, people are wearing heavier clothes, and coffee shops are thriving. It won't be long before the ice skates are coming out of storage in Rockefeller Plaza. I love this place.

Fall always means a shift in the restaurant scene here in NYC, as many of the outdoor patio locations transform themselves back into sidewalks… and the once romantic, crammed indoor spots return. Street vendors warm themselves over their grills and people have complete swearing fits as 10 degree wind chills cut through them like a knife. What joy.

Much happening here as always, and I'm on the beat keeping you in the game.

In case you missed it, here are a few items of note this week in the NYC food scene:


Still Da Bomb

You don’t have to feel like a total tourist to stop into Café Lalo on the UWS. Sure, it was the spot of a noteworthy scene from the sappy film “You’ve Got Mail”, and yes, the trees are adorned with Christmas lights… But truth be told, their steamed eggs are terrific, artisan breads and cheeses fresh… and desserts spectacular. Throw in top notch coffee (stay away from mixed drinks here, stick with wine or bubbly) and you’ve got a joint that you could steal a heart in. Until 4am. 83rd and Amsterdam

Call U-Haul
Word on the street is that Chef sensation Alain Ducasse is moving his restaurant from the Essex House… somewhere downtown. With the Time Warner Center down the street, I can’t say that the neighborhood will miss yet another $200 prix fixe joint, but as history shows, wherever Ducasse's restaurants land, people will follow. Location TBD

Waste of Time

I’m not one to slam restaurants, as this blog has always served as a celebration of food. But when I have a meal that is really very very poor and terribly overpriced, I must speak out. You’ll find this meal and others at the amazingly tired China Grill, located in midtown. The outrageous prices might be able to justify themselves if in fact the food was ok… but it is simply horrible. The $20 crabcakes contained no crab, the $36 skirt steak was chewy and cold, the noodle dishes mushy and overcooked and the bill, $60 too high. Do yourself a favor and opt for Wu Liang Ye on West 48th. The noodles are amazing, the dumplings the best north of Chinatown, and you won’t break the bank. Life is too short to eat crap like that served at China Grill (maybe they need a few Chinese people on the grill) 53rd btw 5th and 6th

Because You Need Your Weiner
After weeks of panic, I am happy to report the my German friends at the happening sausage cart HALLO BERLIN are back and in business at 54th and 5th street. If you haven’t had a homemade sausage off of this cart, you don’t know what you are missing…

The boys carry nearly 10 different types of sausages in a variety of offerings as well as meatballs. Oh yea, you also can get a real crusty roll, 2 types of kraut, amazing sautéed onions and homemade mustard. Yes, there is a line... but the good things come to those who wait. 54th at 5th Ave




Is The World Coming To An End?

I asked myself this question when last week I saw something completely out of place… an organized menu at YIP’S, the midtown get-your-food-in-30-seconds Chinese joint. The boys in the back have drafted a new menu, and don’t make everything everyday, so plan accordingly. That said, the Garlic Chicken is still great, the egg rolls hot (and not greasy) and the noodles cheap and delish. It’s a load of food for only $5 bucks and remains one of the areas better deals. And I can get there from my desk in less than 3 minutes, depending on the elevator traffic. 52nd btw 5th and 6th

Monday, October 02, 2006

Konnichiwa from the Upper West

Matsu... close your eyes and imagine the Ginza



There are few places in the world that fascinate me more than Japan.

Observing their society became a sincere hobby of mine a few years ago when I was working their fairly regularly… and to this day, I marvel with the efficiency they manage the 12,369,000 people that live in Tokyo alone. It is a mixture of technology and tradition, where glass and chrome skyscrapers neighbor Shinto Shrines centuries old. It is pop culture on steroids… it is soft spoken women in hand made kimonos.


Imagine how popular my 6’2, 280 pound frame was walking down the streets of Shinjuku. In the land of sumo giants, I heard more than my share of gasps and giggles. They must have thought… “now that is one big ass American”.

I love that.

Truth be told, my first experience in Tokyo wasn’t different from the breakout movie “Lost in Translation”. I was a guest at the Park Hyatt (same hotel), marveled at the view (Mt. Fuji) and could never fall asleep. High atop the Park Hyatt is the New York Bar which really does host American entertainment, including jazz friends of mine from the west coast. I spent a lot of time there. Watching the film was eerie and the insomnia all too real.

That said, sleepless nights fed my hunger to learn the local cuisine… and I fell in love with many different styles of Japanese cooking (at all hours of the night)… including shabu-shabu and robato grilled meats.

But one “fast favorite” of mine became a dish known as katsu-don… or pork cutlet over rice.

The dish sounds simple, and it is… but the flavors are unique and addictive. First, you start with a bowl of hot steaming Japanese white rice. On top, you place a fried pork cutlet, sliced into strips, with an egg (scrambled into the cutlet after frying) and top it all with a sauce that is sweet and salty in nature. The dish now gets sprinkled with fresh chopped green onions and presto; the perfect katsu-don.

As far as origin, the dish takes its name from the Japanese words tonkatsu (for pork cutlet) and donburi (for rice bowl dish). It has become a modern ritual tradition for Japanese students to eat katsudon the night before taking a major test or school entrance exam… and for tourists like me who need to warm up to fairly familiar cuisine before jumping of the deep end and eating something I can name or recognize.
There is an art to making this stuff…. mainly in the skill of breading the cutlet in panko (japanese bread crumbs) and the addition of the egg. The sauces can also vary from a typical katsu-type sauce (imagine a worcestershire thing) to a demi-glace, to a soy based and even miso.

So, no two katsu-dons are alike.

In NYC, you can grab a bowl of this stuff nearly anywhere good Japanese food is sold, making the city pilgrimage a fun one. Where do I order my next katsu-don??

One place that gets it right (as well as all of their food) is Matsu… located on Columbus between 83 & 84 on NY’s Upper West Side.

Matsu is the quintessential NYC Japanese dive… and their food resonates in an authenticity unique to Tokyo. Sure you can find the things you expect… crispy Gyoza, Beef Negimaki, perfect sushi and sashimi…. but you’ll also find blue collar dishes like soba and udon noodle dishes, delicately fried oysters and a perfect Chilean Sea Bass.

I try not to mention Matsu to many people in an effort to not expose this gem of a find… as I can still get a table at 7:30 on a week night. But alas, ForkNY calls, and the cat is now out of the bag.

Matsu offers a pork and chicken version of katsu-don, and both are terrific. But if you can't get to Matsu, I highly recommend you look for the dish at your local dive. If it’s not on the menu, I can almost promise you they'll make a version for you… as when they take their meal breaks…. they're more often than not eating it.

Matsu ($$$)
Japanese, Sushi

483 Columbus Ave, New York 10024
Btwn 83rd & 84th St

Phone: 212-799-7922
Fax: 212-799-8597

Wednesday, September 27, 2006

Does Puck Make "The Cut"?

Get Ready For Dinner and a Show in Los Angeles


I’ve imagined a lot of restaurant interiors in my lifetime… and had the opportunity to work with my wife Jami designing two of my own restaurants… one, a Cajun crabshack nestled into Chicago’s Gold Coast (Beignet’s Louisiana Kitchen) ; the other a Spanish tapas room in Baton Rouge’s reborn downtown district (The Lava Room).

My days of owning and operating restaurants are gone for good (ok, never say never)… but my appreciation for beautiful spaces continues to flourish.

Last week I had the opportunity to dine at the highly anticipated “CUT” Steakhouse, the uber-cool creation of Chef Wolfgang Puck and legendary architect Richard Meier.


Upon entering the space, it was obvious that the design team was going for “wow”, and most often, that’s what they get.

This place doesn’t look like any steakhouse I’ve ever seen. It’s a California cool space washed in pure whites and natural light. Instead of dark mahogany booths you get blond teakwood. Clubby leather chairs give way to Knoll-style chrome and mesh, and the amenities are clean and well appointed. Imagine having dinner in the Design Within Reach showroom. Or the lobby of MOMA.

It was a nice change.

For me, it’s always been about the food, and CUT does many things very well… and they have to. Being located in the Regent Beverly Wilshire (A Four Seasons Property) comes with a price tag, and believe you me, this place ain’t cheap. Not that a quality steakhouse should be… but there is expensive… and also “holy crap this is expensive.”

You’ll be hard pressed to find a dish on this menu you recognize, other than the steaks themselves, which nearly all come bone-in. This is fine by me, as bone-in usually means more flavor… but when you are dropping $48 on a piece of meat, you’re expecting something special.

Apps here can be eventful and silly at the same time. The Kobe Beef Sashimi is a popular choice and is solid. A classic steak tartare also makes an appearance. There is Warm Veal Tongue and Maple Glazed Pork Belly for those more adventurous, and an Heirloom Tomato and Goat Cheese dish for those who aren’t. In the middle, you have a wide variety of options including a Lobster and Crab “Louie” cocktail, Foie Gras and a Bone Marrow Flan which steals the show. It’s a nice selection… but at an average price of $20, be careful. You haven’t ordered the wine yet.

Kobe beef, as well American Waygu made an appearance in the US several years ago, and both continue to build momentum. Both varieties are available at CUT, and both come with a steep price. While a 6oz American Waygu can start around $60, the Japanese Kobe will set you back $120 for an 6oz New York Strip… and $160 for an 8oz Ribeye.

Ouch.

But is it worth it?

Good question. To me, no…. as I love the flavor of USDA Prime Beef, cooked perfectly. Sure, the Kobe stuff cuts like butter and tastes the same, but as unique as that taste is… it’s not the hearty steak I’ve come to know and love. Should you try it once? Absolutely. Would I serve it at a holiday BBQ?

Nah.

Steaks come with a variety of sauces, and I’m fairly sure every sauce on the planet is represented. From Mustard, to Chimichurri, to Bernaise, to Foie Gras “Rossini” style, and extra $2 will aid you in covering the taste of the steak you just mortgaged your house to buy.

The sides are delicious but still sides. The Swiss Chard is exceptional, and the fingerling potatoes “Lyonnaise” interesting. There are also mushrooms galore as well as Potato Tarte Tatin.

For those who aren’t as fond of red meat as I, there is a nice selection of fish dishes including Sea Bass, Big Eye Tuna and lobster… and a few pork and duckling offerings to make you pause. The best non-steak option may very well be the Veal “Holstein Schnitzel” with capers and fried egg. This is a dish Puck does better than any chef in America.


So good in fact, that I made a special trip to his Las Vegas eatery “Postrio” several years ago to eat it. It’s offered at lunch on the patio, and served with spaetzle and warm potato salad… maybe I’ll save this one for another time.

By the time you’ve reached dessert you are full… which is a shame, because the desserts looked amazing. On top of that, about this time the place becomes flooded with the jet set. On the way out, I rubbed shoulders with a supermodel and Don Rickles. Only in LA.

So, the verdict?

It’s good. Pretty. Fun. Expensive.

But in the end, I couldn’t figure out of we were paying for the meal… or the show. The cooler than all get out room, the tableside raw meat presentation, or just the honor of sitting in a Meier space eating stuff.

You will likely find a better steak down the street, but I must admit the space can be intoxicating… and for those who live the scene in LA, this is your joint.

Enjoy it. And bring lots of cash.

Thursday, September 21, 2006

Rebirth

I Can Close My Eyes and Smell The Gumbo On The Stove



Monday night the New Orleans Saints will take the field against the Atlanta Falcons in the Louisiana Superdome. Nearly 70,000 Louisianians will gather and unite for something they truly love. Cheering on their Saints.

There will be precious little girls in black and gold cheerleading uniforms. Rough and crusty oyster fishman. A grandma sticking voodoo dolls with long stick pins. A guy dressed like the pope.

The concession stands will sell Popeye's Fried Chicken, Red Beans and Rice and Jambalaya.

And when the Saints emerge from the tunnel and enter the field, there will be tears.

To think what happened in that building just a year ago, this evening is somewhat of a miracle... and a rebirth.

A year after the events of Hurricane Katrina, I still have problems talking about it.

Unlike many people I meet in New York who can comment about what happened and what went wrong, I have very different perspective.

I was there.

Living in my hometown of Baton Rouge, watching the winds rip tree branches from the oaks that surrounded my home… I knew this was a storm we would never forget.

As much as I would like to expound on what happened in the days and weeks after the hurricane, I would rather use that energy to talk about the great city of New Orleans, and the one-of-a-kind food shops and restaurants that have made it back.

Below is a short list of restaurants and dives that I literally grew up in. The food is unmistakably New Orleans, and the atmosphere the same. Some of them you may have heard of… many of them you have not.

I’ll be back in New Orleans in a few weeks, and intend on visiting as many of these places as I can. Next time you visit, I strongly urge you to do the same. With over 50% of the restaurants and cafes still closed and likely never to reopen, it is important to celebrate the few that have made it back… and welcome them with open arms.

I hope you enjoy them as much as I do… I’ll see you at the bar.



Domilise Sandwich Shop & Bar
5240 Annunication Street , New Orleans, LA 70115

This small poboy shop in the garden district is the quintessential New Orleans dive. It also is the home of what many believe to be the best poboy in New Orleans… quite a statement. I tend to agree. The fried shrimp poboys are piled high with shredded lettuce and sour pickles, the crispy fried oysters sprinkled with fresh lemon and the roast beef, covered in rich beef gravy that is destined to drip down your forearms. This is the real deal… as the saying goes… as good as it gets.

Type of Establishment: American,Creole,Seafood,Po-Boys
Price Range: Inexpensive
Telephone: (504) 889-9126
Hours: Mon-Wed, Fri-Sat 10-7pm
Payments Accepted: Cash


Commerce Restaurant
300 Camp St. , New Orleans, LA 70130

Tradition, tradition. You know this place. Baskets of Tom’s crackers and breadsticks on the counter with a dish of butter pats. Paper napkins. Ice tea. This is that plate lunch joint that always has the stuff you wish you had made that day, but was just too much work (red beans, greens, gumbo, etc). I’ll bet you make friends with someone you’ve never met over lunch.

Type of Establishment: Bkft/Lunch,Creole,Seafood,Po-Boys
Price Range: Inexpensive
Telephone: (504) 561-9239
Hours: 6:00am to 2:30pm Monday – Friday

Johnny's Po-Boys

511 St. Louis Street , New Orleans, LA 70130


Likely the only place in the French Quarter where you can get a real poboy, and a good one at that. I lean towards the roast beef here, but in truth, they can all hold their own. These guys close early, so don’t procrastinate.

Type of Establishment: American,Po-Boys
Price Range: Inexpensive
Telephone: (504) 523-9883
Hours: 8:00am to 4:30pm Monday - Friday, 9:00am to 4:00pm Saturday - Sunday
Payments Accepted: Cash

Mother's
401 Poydras Street , New Orleans, LA 70130


Maybe the most famous poboy shop in the Big Easy, and the process reflect. Tourists come in droves, but truth be told so do many locales… as the black ham with debris poboy may be the best in town. If you have never been here, the long line that forms out the kitchen door may be worth your wait. Stick with the sandwiches and Red Beans on Mondays.

Type of Establishment: Creole,Cajun,Po-Boys
Price Range: Inexpensive
Telephone: (504) 523-9656
Hours: Mon-Sat 7:30am-8pm
Payments Accepted: American Express,Master Card,Visa,Cash

Drago's
3232 N. Arnoult Road , Metairie, LA 70002


Words can’t describe Dragos. First, know that the BBQ Oyster was invented here. What is it? A fresh shucked oyster on half shell, topped with lemon, butter, garlic and cheeses, then grilled over a open BBQ until hot and bubbly. When you walk through the front door, you’ll see no less that 40 dozen stacked high… as every single table starts with at least a dozen. All the food is great, but don’t kid yourself… the oysters have people driving in from Mississippi.

Type of Establishment: Seafood
Price Range: Moderate
Telephone: (504) 888-9254
Hours: Mon-Fri 11-8:30pm; Sat 3-9pm
Payments Accepted: American Express,Master Card,Visa,Cash

R & O Restaurant

216 Old Hammond Hwy , Metairie, LA 70005

Maybe the most famous neighborhood joint in New Orleans, on the lakefront in Metarie. A classic dive, the food here is legendary…. Hot shrimp and oyster loaves, plates of spaghetti, boiled crabs and crawfish in season…. Ice cold Miller Lite. It’s a gem, and I know few people in South Louisiana who haven’t been there.

Type of Establishment: Italian,Pizza,Seafood,Po-Boys
Price Range: Moderate
Telephone: (504) 831-1248
Hours: Wed-Sat 11:30-3pm, 5:30-8:30pm
Payments Accepted: Master Card,Visa,Cash

Bayona
430 Dauphine Street , New Orleans, LA 70112


Is it possible that Susan Spicer was the first to really succeed at Haute Creole commercially? I think so. And years after her magnificent Bayone opened in the Quarter, it continues to thrive. This is not a traditional creole joint as you or I know it… but an experience of all of the flavors we love, in a way you’ve never tasted. Long live Bayone, and the creative genius of Susan.

Type of Establishment: American,Creole,French
Price Range: Expensive
Telephone: (504) 525-4455
Hours: Tues-Sat 6pm; Wed-Fri 11:30-1:30pm
Payments Accepted: American Express,Master Card,Visa,Cash


Commander's Palace
1403 Washington Avenue , New Orleans, LA 70118


What can be said? This kitchen, as well as the watchful eye of Ella Brennan has spawned some of the nations finest chefs. The dishes at Commanders are as much of a staple as salt and pepper in any Louisiana kitchen, and the community embraces this institution unlike any other. You can still sip a .25 cent martini at lunch (or free is you are a woman eating alone) and the turtle soup has never been better. I’ve often been asked where I would eat my last meal, and without question, it would be here.

Type of Establishment: American,Creole,French,Cajun
Price Range: Expensive
Telephone: (504) 899-8221
Hours: 'til 9:45p Daily
Payments Accepted: American Express,Master Card,Visa,Cash

Irene's Cuisine
539 St. Philip Street , New Orleans, LA 70116

You can’t help but love Irene’s. It’s in restaurants like this one the Italian heritage of the city pours through, in spectacular fashion. When the creole and Italian flavors cross, you can understand the glory this culture…taking something great, and making it even better. Irene’s is a classic.

Type of Establishment: Creole,Italian
Price Range: Unknown
Telephone: (504) 529-8811
Hours: Mon-Sat 5:30-10pm
Payments Accepted: Master Card,Visa,Cash

Saturday, September 16, 2006

Cafe D' Alsace: Worth The Trip


The Evolution of the Perfect NY French Bistro



New Yorkers have never had a problem locating a French bistro in a town brimming with international cuisine. From high end celebrity owned dining rooms to neighborhood eateries, finding the perfect plate of steak frites has become a rite of passage for the die hard NYC foodie.

I like my Steak Frites.

Since moving to New York, I’ve been impressed by the Tour De France NYC food group… a corporate gathering of 9 restaurants serving a variety of regional French fare. These include the very popular French Roast cafes (Parisian cuisine), L’ Express (Lyonnaise Cuisine), Maison (Cuisine of Brittany) and one of my UWS favorites, Nice Matin (Nicoise Cuisine).



Joining the family this year is a new star shining bright on the Upper East Side, Café D’Alsace… serving mainly Alsacienne fare.

First, getting to Café D’Alsace is simple. From the Upper West, you can fly across the park on the 86 bus and walk 2 blocks. If you find yourself in the neighborhood with time to spare, you’ll find Irish Pubs, German sausage shops and a variety of mom and pops with great stuff to eat and drink.

I love the look and feel of this place. It reminds me of numerous neighborhood joints in and around the Marais District in Paris… and that’s a good thing. It’s inside/outside setting makes the dinner experience even more special.

As far as hype, the Café launched with fanfare… but not pointing at it’s terrific food menu… but it’s beer selection. The beer listing is huge, and the selection is varied and eclectic. You’ll find many Café norms like Chimay and Stella… but you’ll also find micro-batch brews from Belgium, France and Germany. You can have some fun drinking your way through this menu.



As good as the beers are, the food is better. First, any place that has bone marrow on the menu has a warm place in my heart. But if bone marrow slathered on toast isn’t your thing, Café D’Alsace offers a dozen terrific apps including a simple Arugula Salad with roasted beets, a Foie Gras Terrine, a delicious cabbage and white bean soup, warm leeks with truffle oil and the dish I sampled… a warm Goat Cheese Tatin, that was out of this world.


It would be easy to plop down at Café D’Alsace and order the safe but outstanding plate of Steak Frites… but with fresh fish selections, lamb shanks with spaetzle, roasted Duck Breast, Wild Mushroom Ravioli and amazing homemade sausages (including duck, pork, seafood and boudin blanc) you may want to rethink your selection. Also available is a fantastic bistro burger with sweet onions and all the sides you’ve come to know and love when eating this type of fare.

Of course, the coffees are great… and have to be to keep up with an outstanding selection of desserts. Classic Crème Brulee, warm Brioche cake, Apple Tart, a decadent flourless chocolate cake… the list goes on and on. Throw in fresh sorbets and ice creams and you can expect a serious stomach ache.


As much as I love the UWS Nice Matin, I love Café D’Alsace even more. The neighborhood setting is a bit more gritty and unpretentious, the atmosphere even more authentic, and the food just downright great. I am guessing the neighborhood agrees… as the evening I ate there the place was jammed by 7:30.

Do yourself a favor, and hop on the bus, and get yourself up to the Upper East Side. Café D’Alsace is a slice of Europe in a charming spot… again proving that you don’t have to book a flight overseas to enjoy the best in euro eats. I’ll see you there.

Wednesday, September 13, 2006

Alain Ducasse: Simply Sublime


How exactly do you blog about a meal at Alain Ducasse?

It’s me, André… the guy who eats snap skin hot dogs and andouille gumbo. The guy who can get as excited about a carnitas burrito as a rack of lamb. Holy crap, I eat Kraft Mac n’ Cheese.

In the same breath I can say that I have experienced meals at some of the world’s finest restaurants… Chicago’s Charlie Trotter’s, Amsterdam’s Blue Pepper, Istanbul’s Kosebasi, Rome’s Vivendo and Toyko’s Aragawa. I get around.

Well. Last night in New York, I had a culinary experience I had yet to experience in the city. I was the guest of Chef Alain Ducasse at his restaurant in the Essex House… and as you can imagine, it was an experience I won’t soon forget.

First of all, trying to blog about Ducasse is like trying to tell you why I like a painting at MOMA. Me describing the dishes to you would equate to me describing the brush strokes. Alain Ducasse is an experience, as much as it is a dining destination. His dishes are theatre, and the flavors are so simply complex (yes, read that again) that all you can do is buckle in for the evening, and savor every moment.

What exactly did I eat? I”ll tell you.

But first, let’s get a few things out of the way.

This place is crazy expensive. So expensive that if you need to ask, you likely shouldn’t be eating here. The basic menu will run you about $160 a person without a beverage… the good menu over $180, and the seasonal tasting menus about $250. The wines are exquisite, and priced as such. The service is attentive without being overbearing and the atmosphere dripping with elegance. You’ll need a jacket, and I didn’t see a male patron without a tie as well. It’s proudly stuffy, in it’s own pretentious way…. but that feeling leaves about the time the sliver tray of hand made artisan breads find your table.

On this night, I enjoyed the following dishes. Here are my thoughts.

I started with: Peekytoe crabmeat, gazpacho gelée, Heirloom tomato granite.

The crabmeat was formed into a solid slab, topped with thinly sliced tomatoes. The crab, delicious and fresh, was similar to the grade we enjoy in South Louisiana, where much of the nation’s crabmeat is harvested. For those who know crab, the Peekytoe is an interesting story, as this Maine sand crab was known as a throw-away product by lobster fishermen for years, until they changed the name in the late 90’s to Peekytoe… and poof! A new crab was born and is now shipped to the worlds finest chefs. The gelée was lost on me a bit, but the crushed ice granite was nothing short of exceptional, complimenting the sea flavored main dish with earthy, sweet tomato granules. Overall, this dish was sublime and set the table.

Next, I ordered the Maine lobster, steamed haricots verts, sugar snap/English peas, fava beans.

The lobster arrived as a smallish tail, placed on its side in the center of the plate. Small drops of herb infused oils dotted the plate, and framed the palate for the green bean/snap pea mixture placed to accompany the lobster. The lobster meat was buttery delicious, and the entire plate had a common thread of flavor that had been well conceived. It was a winning dish.

The main entrée?....Roasted and glazed milk fed veal, wild mushrooms/asparagus "fricassée".

The veal was thick and flavorful, and surprisingly included a ribbon of fat (for flavor), a detail missing from most restaurant versions of this cut. Again, the simplicity of the ingredients in this dish is what shines. Ducasse is a genius when it comes to allowing his main ingredients to strut their stuff… and he’s not one to cover the pure essence of these flavors with heavy sauces.

Finally desert….. an Apricot/Sicilian pistachio soufflé, marmalade & sorbet.

Hard to out his into words. Well made soufflés are nothing short of spectacular, and this one was no exception. It was served along side of a scoop of apricot sorbet sprinkled with roasted pistachio nuts. This dish may be worth the trip alone.

Final synopsis?

If severely refined French cooking isn’t your thing, you won’t like Alain Ducasse.

These dishes have no reflection on NYC… and actually scream of his other restaurants in Paris and Tokyo (Ducasse is connected to some 30 restaurants). You could certainly close your eyes and beam yourself to a place far, far away.

Remember, this experience isn’t all about food. A night at Alain Ducasse is decadent. From the moment you enter to the second you leave, you are a special guest… and you know it. This evening is about sending your senses into overdrive, and the kitchen skillfully and shamefully renders you senseless as they provide a seemingly endless supply culinary delights.

If you love food and dining, you owe it to yourself to have an evening at Alain Ducasse. You just might need to borrow from your Christmas Fund to pull it off…..


Friday, September 08, 2006

Naked In Amsterdam

Living off the street and loving every minute of it



I’ve been here in Amsterdam, Netherlands for 3 days, and today realized something startling.

I am the largest person in this country.

Not only am I the largest at 6’2, 280, I am the largest by about 70 pounds or so. I mean, I just can't find another big guy on the street. Nowhere. Nada.

That said, I did find the one and only Big and Tall Men’s Clothier in Holland yesterday (a hobby of mine), and concluded that if in fact I did live here, I would most likely be naked. That’s based on the fact that t-shirts in this joint cost $45 dollars, jeans $110, and a jacket, $150. With the amount of clothes I need, I’d be out of cash before I filled my sock drawer.

So how do they do it?.. Stay so fit? Is it because they all (and I mean all) ride bikes? Walk everywhere? Eat healthier? Drink wine? Smoke grass? (ok, just the kids)

I say this as I watch some thin guy down a buttery Apple Pancake washed down with a double cappuccino.

I think its in the genes.

None the less, I’ve had fun eating here for a few days. Yes, you can always find your pancakes, gouda cheese plates, tomato soup, fried sausage croquettes and canal-side herring stands (yuch)….. but I always love to eat ethnic food in this part of Europe, as the mix of people has had such an amazing impact on the cuisine (think Indian food in London).

One of my favorite eats here are Falafel. There is a joint that makes darn near the best I have ever had… so I have had 3 since I arrived. It’s called MOAZ, and who knew, it’s a vegetarian place. (for more, http://www.moazveg.com )

This is no run of the mill falafel. These are incredibly flavorful, fried to just the right size. They stuff their homemade pita bread (fresh from the toaster), hit it with chopped lettuce, and then you stuff it full with a salad bar full of goodiess like pickles, beets, peppers, etc. Top it off with some yogurt sauce and get busy.

Some research on my part (not much) did show a lone USA location, in Philly. But for some reason, I’d bet the one here tastes better. Maybe it’s the 90 foot Heineken sign hanging above my head.

Other street food here includes Hot Dogs, which are terrific (any hot dog made east of the Atlantic is made with love), the fore-mentioned herring stands, pastry and waffle shops, and lots of ice cream. Throw in about 100 Belgian French Fry stands and you could give yourself a serious stomach ache.

I haven’t actually eaten in a “real” restaurant yet, but I’ve never been a fan of Dutch cuisine. So the pubs and schwarma stands will just have to do.

NEW YORK CALLS

There is good falafel and amazing Halal food (street meat) in New York City… and many will argue the best Halal can be found at the corner of 53rd and 6th Avenue.

This cart is soooo popular, they often have a line nearly ½ city block long. They open at 7:30pm and remain open until 4am. The line is there all night. No joke.

A week ago, I decided I couldn’t take it anymore, and walked down there after working late one night.

I had the chicken and rice platter for a whole $5. This is a container packed with chicken, yellow rice, pita triangles and lettuce that must weigh 10 pounds. The meat here is halal, which means it is produced hormone free and in a humane way, according to Muslim laws. Ask for the spicy red sauce (just a bit)and the magic white yogurt sauce… and damn. Amazing. Now I know why they line up. You will not believe this value, and it just tastes terrific. What a find.

They are so popular, they now have their own website: www.53rdand6th.com .

TIP OF THE WEEK

If you are in need of that perfect midtown joint, visit one of my favorite spots here - http://midtownlunch.wordpress.com . This site has all of the scoop on where to eat in the black hole that is Midtown NYC.

Until then, I’ll see ya at 49th and 6th. Ciao from Amsterdam.

Monday, September 04, 2006

Bella Luna: Struggling To Be Average


Missing The Mark On The Upper West Side




I’ve never quite understood how a barely average restaurant can survive in New York.

With a high concentration of well above average places… especially Italian spots… it would seem that any place that didn’t do at least one thing well… well, would shutter it’s doors.

Bella Luna is a classic example of a destination that just misses the mark... but has remianed open for a long time.


On the outside, the store has a few things going for it… a great location, on the corner, outside seating in season, a bar… etc. The rest is a miss.

First, the staff (although friendly) is robotic and absent. They simply go through the motions, yes to his, no to that. There is no personal service, no recommendations, no nothing.

“How are the specials today?” we asked. “I don’t know. We’re not allowed to try any of them,” she replied. “They look pretty good.”

Hmmmm.

“The veal… it comes with pasta I see. Can I get it with meat sauce?” I asked.

“Yes. For an extra three dollars.” She replied.

See where I am going with this?

Inside the bland dining room (turn the lights down maybe?) we sat. The somewhat dressy room was filled with very casual diners, a welcome sight in a nice Upper West Side neighborhood. Unfortunately the décor and menu have nothing in common.

The menu itself is fairly simple, with some apps, salads, pasta dishes, fish (small selection) and veal/chicken dishes.

We started with a plate of beets with goat cheese, which were fine and uneventful.

This was followed by a house salad.. a plate of mixed baby greens (average) with a house dressing plopped on top. Note to chef: take a moment and do your guests a favor… toss this salad in a bowl with the dressing, and hit it with some course salt and fresh cracked black pepper. Then place it next to the salad you serve now… and ask yourself which one you would rather eat.

Our main courses came next… one, a special of the day… an artichoke ravioli in a pink sauce. I thought this might be a special sauce, until I saw it on the menu as a regular item… which means this is the incarnation of a lazy kitchen. Again, the dish (which had a few grilled chicken tenders added) was spectacularly average.

The other dish was a veal parm, with a side of pasta and meat sauce. The veal was barely average, and the pasta well, well below average. Lumped onto the plate with the veal, it was terribly overcooked in a meat ragu with very little flavor. I cook much richer sauces at home with likely half of the resources of their commercial kitchen. Shame shame.


I failed to mention that I opted out of ordering a bottle of outrageously priced wine, and ordered a glass of house white, which was undrinkable… and believe me, I’m easy when it comes to wine.

There was a dessert menu, but with the level of quality where it was, we decided to walk next door and try the frozen yogurt.

What makes me steam about restaurants like Bella Luna is the lost potential of all of it. A great locale, loyal neighborhood and seemingly fixable kitchen. I know this place has been here forever… but let me lend the owner this advice… take a long look at your menu from top to bottom, then go out to eat. Experience the range of top shelf Italian cooking in the city, and compare your fare. If you shy away from your own dishes… make a change. I’m not telling you to pretend to be a Lupa or Felidia… but be something. Your lost identity and run of the mill menu will soon fade into NYC restaurant oblivion.

I won’t be back.

Truth be told, you can have a much better meal a block away at Pesce Pasta… an unpretentious gem that will practically cook any dish you can dream up, at a cheaper price. It is a simple place with a simple menu… that doesn’t pretend to be something it’s not.

Stay tuned to Fork New York! I am headed to Europe with a report from Amsterdam… home of the world’s best bowl of tomato soup!

Tuesday, August 29, 2006

FAST FOOD HEAVEN? Chipotlé Is The Place

Why Did It Take So Long To Figure It Out?



It’s true. Fast food has become a dirty word.

But when you think of fast food, don’t you think greasy burgers? Fries? Fried Chicken?

Well, there is a trend sweeping the country, and that’s fresher fast food. Yes, it still may be served on a paper plate or in a wax wrapper… but that doesn’t mean that it can’t taste good, and be good for you. Or at least… better for you.


This is where the new fresh-mex concept CHIPOTLE comes in. Like the earlier Baja Fresh, these guys hit the market with fresher that fresh ingredients, no freezers and no microwaves. This means your food was made fresh, likely a few minutes ago, and may actually taste that way.

Before I dive in, let me fill you in on a few things….

McDonald's owns 90% of Chipotle Mexican Grill.
Competitor Baja Fresh is owned by a subsidiary of Wendy's.
Competitor Qdoba was acquired by Jack in the Box in 2003.

This is a big deal in the food world. There is a lot of money to be made here.


The menu concept at Chipotle is genius. You have very little to choose from… a burrito, a fajita burrito, a burrito Bowl (or as they call it, Bol), soft or hard tacos… and a salad.

Once you figure out what it is you’ll have, you pick the meats. Marinated, grilled chicken, hand chopped steak, braised carnitas, spicy barbacoa (shredded beef… and my favorite) or vegetarian (surprisingly good).

The meats are not your run-of-the-mill fast food quality fare. This is marinated, grilled and stewed stuff. You'll be shocked.

From there, you tell your new friends behind the counter what condiments you’d like (fresh sliced romaine lettuce, pinto or delicious black beans, etc) and choose a homemade salsa.

The salsa is downright great. As I love the medium hot Tomatillo-Green Chili, the Roasted Chili Corn, Tomatillo-Red Chili and Fresh Tomato are all wunderbar.

To top things off, Chipotle makes their guacamole fresh by hand several times a day, along with great tortilla chips. A case of ice cold Mexican beers are available to wash it all down.


So why the big deal? Maybe because this place… a fast food place… nails all of the details. Why don’t other new stores (or older classics) get it? This average meal here will run you about $6.95, and in NYC, that is one helluva deal.

And if you can do the math, you can get your mind around this… you can get about 50,000 combinations with these 5 items. Uh, add sour cream please.

So, how popular is the place? There is a website dedicated to their fans… where you can chat, get coupons, find out about new locations and own the nutritional info (http://www.chipotlefan.com) . These guys are serious.

Otherwise, visit the real home at www.chipotle.com

Chipotle has smothered midtown Manhattan with a number of outlets… and more seem to keep coming. Do yourself a favor and hit one next time your hungry for something without the grease.

Oh yea, don’t forget the cold Modelo.


If you need the Guac now, here is the recipe!

Chipotle's Guacamole Recipe

Ingredients:
1 large ripe Hass avocado, peeled,pitted
2 teaspoons fresh lime juice
2 Tbsp chopped fresh cilantro
1/4 cup finely chopped red onions
2 cloves garlic, finely minced
1 serrano chili, seeded,chopped
1/4 teaspoon salt

Directions:
1. Mash up avocado with a fork.
2. Add lime juice.
3. Add all other ingredients and blend well.
4. Serve with tortilla chips.

Monday, August 21, 2006

Saigon Grill: Value and Taste = Winner

Expanding Across NYC, Saigon Continues To Get It Right



With football season almost here, I broke down and made a pot of chicken and okra gumbo over the weekend. I know, it’s still 80 degrees outside my door on Central Park, but I can’t help myself. Somehow I think that eating a bowl of gumbo will make fall arrive just a bit quicker. It’s football season. I can’t help myself.

So I broke out the large gumbo pot, stewed the okra and made a roux.

The weather stayed the same Sunday, but man that gumbo sure was good.

Earlier in the weekend, I finally made a visit to a place I’ve been order delivery from for months… and as impressed as I have been by the quality of the delivery, I was even more impressed by the massive operation Saigon Grill manages at their restaurant on a daily basis.

One reason I have avoided the spot, is the constant crowd that gathers. But hey, a neighborhood place that is packed usually tells you a few things… 1. the food is good, and 2. the food is cheap.

Saigon Grill is both good and cheap. There is a great deal of value here, and you don’t sacrifice taste with a low check…. if you haven’t been, you need to make the effort.

As I have loved Chinese food forever, it took me a while to discover and explore Vietnamese cooking. The flavors are more vibrant and fragrant, the recipes more complex and ingredients more varied. While Chinese can become bland and blah, Vietnamese food often embraces basil and curry… as well as lemon grass and noodles.

I gotta tell ya, I like it. A lot.

Saigon Grill in NYC is a slightly Americanized version of the hard core Vietnamese spots you’ll find below Houston Street, but delivers none the less.

Let’s start with apps.

As tasty as these are at Saigon Grill, I tend to order only one, as the dinners are large. Similar with many Thai spots, you’ll find different versions of soft summer rolls filled with shrimp, bean sprouts, herbs and vermicelli…and fried versions as well. But their best apps may just be the sugarcane shrimp, fried and wrapped around a slice of actual sugar cane or the Deep Fried Crabmeat on Claw. OK, so I like fried seafood.

The soup at Saigon is not to be missed…. as you guessed it, Pho Bo is the bomb. This dish was my first taste of Vietnamese cuisine, and in my opinion encompasses the very essence of the delicacies involved. Po Bo is an Ox Tail broth, filled with rice noodles and bean sprouts. Floating on top are paper thin slices of beef, to be added to the hot broth and swished shabu style until cooked (this takes about 30 seconds). To the table comes a plate of fresh basil, onion and hosing sauce…. Most of which make their way into the bowl. By this time, 4 or your 5 senses are on overload. Oh yea, a bowl of the stuff will set you back $2.95.

From here it gets complicated at Saigon Grill, because they serve so many damn dishes, you can’t choose.

You can go the safe route, and order a chicken dish like Basil Chicken, or Ga Xao Dau Que…. Sautéed chicken and string beans in garito sauce. There are chicken, pork and beef curry dishes with eggplant, onion, string beans and peppers served with pancakes…. Crispy whole fish served with sweet and sour sauce and a Seafood Bouillabaisse that would knock your socks off.

There are noodle dishes like the traditional Bun Xao, sticky rice noodles with shredded veggies, eggs and peanuts… Bun noodles, a rice vermicelli with cucumbers, herbs and the like… and Banh Hoi, a steamed angel hair dish with rice crepes and baby shrimp.

Getting hungry?

The friend rice dishes are fantastic as well. And is you feel the need to get really fresh, there is a full sushi menu with every roll under the sun, as well as decent grade sashimi.

Smart touches to the impressive menu include Ginger Ice Tea and Sticky rice and bean pudding for desert…. But by the time desert rolls around, I am usually in too much pain to consider giving it a whirl.

The success if Saigon Grill is no secret to most New Yorkers, as the fledgling chain now sports four locations in the city.

You’ve got my word, you’ll find solid stuff here… and more flavor than you’ll know what to do with. Choose wisely.

Saigon Grill

620 Amsterdam Ave- At 90th St
New York, NY 10024

212 875-9072
212 875-9073

(and several locations around the city)

Tuesday, August 15, 2006

In Case You Missed It...

Here's the skinny of what's happening in my favorite kitchens!




You may want to venture out into the concrete jungle one of these days… and when you do, you should check out this stuff happening right under your nose, slacker.


Bubble, Bubble…
You’ve heard about it. You’ve read about it. Now you need to drink it. That’s right, Bubble Tea, the asian inspired “drink du jour” is now flowing literally all over the city… although I still believe the best versions can be found in Chinatown.
Quickly (pictured) can get you started… but in my opinion, the best in the city is that of the frozen variety around the corner on Mott at Ten Ren. Caution: HIGHLY ADDICTIVE STUFF

Jiffy Pop It Ain’t
Yes, I am a popcorn freak. Do I own my own commercial popcorn machine? Yes. Do I use theatre grade coconut popping oil? Yes. Will I die of coronary disease at age 54? Likely. But I truly love the stuff, and consider it a major food group. But where can I eat good popcorn when I’m not at home? Well, in NYC options are limited, but Dale and Thomas is the right place to start. With gourmet options like Chocolate Chunk n’ Carmel, Ragin’ Cajun, Sweet Georgia Pecan, Sweet and Spicy BBQ, Buffalo and Blue Cheese and six or seven others, you should be able to find that satisfying crunchy snack brought to us by our friends, the American Indians. Oh yea, their plain old popped and Kettle Corn ain’t bad, either. Locations across Manhattan and at DaleandThomas.com

Power Brunching on the UWS
It can be said that the Upper West Side may have more brunch spots than any neighborhood in the city. Sure, the Village has it’s hangouts and the Lower East it’s funky dives… but for some reason, the sidewalk café scene on the UWS has evolved into a genre all it’s own. For my money, GOOD ENOUGH TO EAT may be one of the neighborhood’s best. Why? Well, homemade corned beef hash for one… with huge chunks of deli grade corned beef, fresh cut potatoes and onions. I had my plate with scrambled eggs and a side of grits and scratch biscuits. I could have opted for the Peach French Toast… but why have the girly meal when I could consume an additional 1000 calories?

Can It Be?
Can is be that the city’s best Chinese restaurant is a Bayard Street dive? Word on the street is that NEW GREEN BO may be not only the best kept secret, but simply the best Chinese restaurant in NYC…. and after a visit, I may believe the hype. You can get it all here… tiny steamed pork buns, shu-mei, cold and hot noodles, boneless pig leg, crispy eel, winter melon soup, and nearly 100 variations of your favorite lobster, shrimp, pork, chicken, beef and vegetable dishes. It’s all dirt cheap and piled high. An important observation: they’ve got your sesame chicken, but if I were you, I wouldn’t make the trip and miss the beef stew over rice. 66 Bayard Street btw Mott and Elizabeth in Chinatown

Smoke Em While You Can
It wasn’t long ago I told a friend of mine that it would be a cold day in hell before NYC outlawed smoking in bars in this city. I bet him $20 bucks. Well, needless to say that money is long gone, and I am without a place to sip a martini and enjoy a fine crafted cigar….. almost.
In the rebellious style of the prohibition days of the past, FLORIO’S, a wonderful old school Italian joint in Little Italy has been able to “skirt” the issue, and allows patrons to light ém up at the bar, in the front of the restaurant. Larry, the kind and hospitable owner can show you his vast selection of top shelf stogies, but do yourself a favor and request one of his own hand-rolled, spicy cigars he has made especially for his customers. Equally as tasty is Larry’s food, which features thin crust Roman style pizzas and wonderfully rich pastas, including my favorite there, the rigatoni con vodka, in a perfect pink sauce. Long live Florio’s.

When you need to be cool…
You roll out of bed, unshaven and slightly hungover. As you glance down you notice the alarm clock… 11:40am. Unable to actually speak a coherent phrase, you slide into your jeans and sandals, and make your way to the subway platform… headed to Brookyln’s DUMBO.
By noon, you’ve arrived at RICE, the uber cool rice house featuring ten types of the holy grain, from jasmine to Bhutanese red. You choose your rice, select a topping (the Thai Coconut Curry will do the trick) with a side of Aleppo yogurt. Washed down with a glass of fresh watermelon juice, you may be the hippest person in the five boroughs.

Wednesday, August 09, 2006

Batali's Babbo.... Bravissimo!

Once again, some of the city's best food is coming from Mario.



I’ll be the first to admit that I spend a good deal of time blowing smoke up Mario Batali’s rear end.

But, the truth is his restaurants are just down right terrific.

It’s one thing to promise and not deliver… but when you can have top notch meals at any of his restaurants on any given night without disappointment… well, you have something you need to share.



Mario’s Babbo is one strange bird. It is a cozy, charming 2-story space located steps from Washington Square, in a old brownstone conversion. But what you won’t find here is complete refinement. Yes, the appointments are stylized and classic, the wine list is smallish and wonderful and the staff expressive without being pushy. That said, don’t be surprised if you hear a musical selection by Pink Floyd or Def Leopard playing over the house sound system.

It’s that type of bizarre edge that has made Babbo such an interesting place over the years… a hint of unexpectedness that this space loves to embrace. And from the moment you hit the door, there is a scripted experience that awaits every customer. It has been carefully planned, and is honestly the reason this store has developed the following it has. This is a space with a story.

My experience last week started on a Friday evening at 5pm, without a reservation…. that is, I had no reservations.


We cued in line about 4:45, which I now know is almost too late. The doors to the wine bar open at 5pm, and it’s then the first six parties of 2-4 people can stake their claim on a table in the bar with the maitre’d… sans reservation. By a stoke of luck, we were party #6.

After putting our names on the list and being assured of a table in the bar area (hey it’s Babbo, you take what you can get) we sat at the handsome bar, and nibbled on tiny Spanish olives and crunchy, addictive asaigo breadsticks. The wine list is full of rich, decadent wines and I ordered a glass to ease the 20 minute wait to be sat.

Once we were seated, we watched as no less that 30 couples were turned away to dine elsewhere. Only a five minute walk, my guess is that many of them wound up at Otto, in the much larger bar. Note to self: call ahead for a good table. Like a month ahead.

Being fans of Mario’s pasta, it didn’t take long to settle on the Pasta Tasting Menu, an option that all parties must agree on. Although the menu had countless mouthwatering options, tasting menus are usually very well thought out. This was an opportunity I just couldn’t pass up.

So, after a delicious complimentary appetizer from the kitchen (I won’t ruin the surprise) the pasta began hitting the table.

This is what we experienced.




Black Tagliatelle with Roasted Corn

So much for getting off to a quiet start. This dish was spectacular in every aspect of the word. The flavors were perfectly balanced and appropriate for a light summer dish. They start here for a reason… this dish raises the bar. High.


Baccala “Mezzalune” with Black Olive Butter
Not as earth-shattering as the first, but a solid, well made dish. The baccala is a salt cod combined with potatoes, inside a ravioli. The butter and olives were the right combination to balance the sea-taste of the pasta. This was a decent portion, and left us wondering how much food we had signed up for.

Garganelli with “Funghi Trifolati”
Believe it or not, this was my first taste of garganelli pasta, and wow, I’m a fan. If you don’t know this pasta, it’s a thin, hand-rolled tube that is marked with thin slits to carry the sauce. The mushroom sauce was heavenly and this proved to be one of the best bites of the evening. At this point, we are getting full.

Fernando’s Pyramids with “Passato di Pomodoro”

Heavenly. Imagine pockets of fresh pasta, wrapped around fresh tomatoes,covered with shaved parm reggiano. I am stuffed.

Pappardelle Bolognese

By this point, Mario brings out pure simplicity. The ribbons of homemade pasta are lightly coasted with a slow cooked Bolognese of beef and veal. It is a delightful reminder of the culinary trip you just encountered… and serves as a welcome home. Never mind the fact that you are so full you can’t see straight.

As you would expect, there is not one, or two… but three courses of dessert. To get into this stage, we slowed waaaaaay down, had a cup of coffee and unbuttoned. 20 minutes later, we indulged in several delightful courses, including warm chocolate truffles as well as Olive Oil Gelato.

Cost wise, the Pasta Tasting Menu priced at $64. is a steal. Other spots can charge you up to or over $100 smackers for this kind of variety, but Babbo delivers for nearly half the price. If you feel like spending more, Babbo offers a wine compliment to this meal, with a new wine with each course. At an additional $50 it is a bargin, but be warned, you’re gonna be walking funny.

With Del Posto left to review, I salute the Batali empire and look forward to the next incarnation. If you haven’t visited in a while, I suggest you do so… you’ll remember your first time… and wonder why you have been away so long.

Friday, August 04, 2006

Mario's Magic in Greenwich Village

Simple and Extrodinary, Lupa Continues To Dazzle


Today my wife and I will celebrate our 16th wedding anniversary, and will undoubtedly wind up in a Mario Batali space… although I must admit, I haven’t decided which one. Being that we’ll be eating very, very early, reservations aren’t a grave concern… selecting a spot may be a tougher task. That said, it’s time we discussed what is likely my favorite Batali haunt.

For years, I sat on my couch and watched Mario Batali cook up his Italian wonders on the Food network, while wearing his “Lupa” chef coat.

Hmmm. Lupa. “Must be good,” I thought.

I had no idea.


Years later, there I was, sitting in the smallish, crowded, noisy dining room having one of those “oh my god” meals. You know the one…. each course better than the last… without getting too full to continue.

Lupa is a space and menu with direction and attitude. She knows who she is and what she is… and how she got there. She is confident but not cocky, while remaining playful and pristine. She is built upon a world of flavor… presenting dishes that know how to deliver that ever important massage.

That message of… “we get it.”

My first experience at Lupa was on a brisk October evening in Greenwich Village. I had no reservation, but would not be denied. As the doors opened at 5pm, I dashed in and promptly sat at the bar, happy as a clam. I wouldn’t think of wasting table space being this happy to have a seat at the bar.

Those who read this blog understand I almost never hesitate eating at the bar. And of course at Lupa’s bar, you get 5-star service and can eat from the same menu as those who called a month ago for a reservation. Joy.

So with a suggestion and a taste or two of the day’s wine selections, I began to sip and nibble my way through a grouping of dishes that were just irresistible. Warm olives, beets with pistachio, white beans. I had an assortment of thin sliced homemade Salumi and Coppa, and a parsley and pancetta salad that may be the most spectacular thing I have ever put in my mouth. Really.


For my primi, I selected the Bavette Cacio & Pepe… or pasta with cheese and pepper. It was stupendous in its simplicity, and I finished every bite. For those who love al dente pasta, Lupa is your mecca… if anything some complain about the pasta being under-cooked. It did take me by surprise, but I found the pasta to be firm to the bite and just perfect.

Not having any room for a second course, I ordered anyway.

The menu features a wonderful array of choices… lamb, duck, fish, pork…. you name it. I settled on a Pork Saltimbocca that I just couldn’t resist. Pork, prosciutto, sage. Good lord.

Glancing at my watch, I realize I have been going at this for a good 2 hours. Maybe that’s why I haven’t burst yet… I was taking my time. And you know what that means.

…dessert.

Delicate may be the word here… gelatos, panna cotta, mascarpone. Fragrant hard cheeses served with condiments including honey. Help me.

Well, by now you are likely getting the picture that Lupa pushes all of my buttons. Since that chilly fall night, I have returned several times, never to be disappointed. Although they have replaced my favorite salad with other dishes (but the do promise it to return) I find each selection special unto itself.

Lupa is simply one of those “chef owned” joints that just plain lives up to the hype. Without question, it is one of the top 5 Italian restaurants in this city, meaning… one of the finest in the country. Yes, Babbo is tremendous, Del Posto uber-pricy and Otto loud but delicious. But Lupa, in her own way, remains on top of the Batali empire as just plain spectacular.

Tuesday, August 01, 2006

Fire Up The Stove, We’re Cooking Creole In NYC

Fill Your Printer With Paper, These Are Recipes You're Gonna Print!





With thousands of restaurants in NYC, you could certainly make a case for eating out just about every night.

Of course, this line of thinking can also make a substantial dent in your wallet, so shopping and eating at home can be a good thing, too. And as you well know, we would do more of this if in fact we could get over the biggest hurdle... what are we having?

Well, creole and cajun cooking is custom fit for this delimma, as whatever you cook, you'll likely be eating it for a few days.

That's because Louisiana folks cook with two things in mind. First, they don't know who the hell is showing up for dinner, so you think of how many you may be serving, and then double it. Second, they know that today's good gumbo, will be tomorrow AMAZING gumbo, so they make enough to enjoy on day 2.. and 3... etc.

So, this week, we head into the kitchen, with a list of recipes I have gathered from previous posts on this blog... and a few new ones. They are really easy, and very authentic.... so make your grocery list, do a little shopping, and go for it!

Here are a few of my favorites.

Yes, It's a bit hot for this one, but what the hell... what's life without a bowl of gumbo?



Andre’s Gumbo Like I Like It

(Shrimp and Okra Version)

4- 5 Quarts Chicken Stock
4 pounds frozen okra
1 lrg can of diced tomatoes
1 regular can of diced tomatoes
2 large white onions, diced fine
3 tablespoons vegetable oil
1⁄2 teaspoon chopped garlic, fine
1⁄2 teaspoon salt
1⁄2 teaspoon black pepper
3⁄4 cup all purpose flour
3⁄4 cup vegetable oil
3 tablespoon of lea and perrin’s
2 tablespoons crystal hot sauce (or frank’s)
1 1⁄2 tablespoons of creole seasoning (Emerils or Tony’s)
2 bay leaves
1 teaspoon basil
1 teaspoon oregano
1⁄2 teaspoon thyme
2-3 tablespoons Kitchen Bouquet
Salt and pepper to taste
1 cup chopped parsley, fine
4 pounds peeled medium shrimp
Chopped green onions


In a separate pot, heat 3 tbl vegetable oil, and sauté white onions. Add garlic, frozen okra and tomatoes, season with salt and pepper, and cook over medium low heat until tender (at least an hour, if not longer). Okra should be very tender and want to break up. In a large stockpot, heat oil (3/4 cup) and add flour to make roux. Stir constantly over medium heat, making sure not to burn. Bring to desired color… peanut butter color is recommended for best flavor. Once desired color is reached, whisk in chicken stock, 4 qts first and save the rest if needed (chicken base dissolved in water can also be used , but NOT bullion). Add seasonings (wet and dry) and kitchen bouquet for desired color. Add okra mixture and bring to boil. Reduce to low simmer, and cook for 1 1⁄2 hours. Last half hour, add shrimp and parsley and simmer and very low temp, not to overcook shrimp. Serve in bowls, topped with a scoop of cooked long grain rice and top with sprinkle of green onion.

Gumbo is best if cooked day before. Make sure to cool completely before storing in fridge.



The perfect everyday, all day, what do I want to eat dish, Jambalaya.

André’s Chicken and Sausage Jambalaya

2 cups oil or BACON GREASE
5 lbs uncooked rice (mahatma is fine)
6 pounds chicken (thighs work great, also legs)
6 pounds sausage, sliced
4 lbs white onions, chopped fine
2 bunches green onions, chopped fine
2 pounds celery (2 bunches), chopped fine
2 pounds (6-8) green bell peppers, chopped fine
3 tbs. Minced Garlic
15 cups chicken broth or stock
½ cup crystal hot sauce
½ cup lea and perrins
1 bunch parsley
Salt
Pepper



DIRECTIONS

Season your raw chicken with Cajun seasoning (Tonys, etc) Cayenne pepper will also work. If using bacon grease, fry one pound of bacon very well in you heated jambalaya pot. Remove bacon, save and eat with your beer while you cook. Add you chicken pieces to hot grease. Fry until golden brown, remove and set aside. Add sausage and cook until pieces are nice and browned. Remove sausage. Remove almost all grease from pot. Add onions, celery, garlic and bell pepper and cook until golden brown. If onions start to stick, add small amount of water. Be careful not to burn onions. When onion mixture is cooked, add chicken and sausage, chicken stock, salt, pepper, lea and perrins, hot sauce, parsely, salt and pepper to taste (maybe 2 tbs of salt and 2 pepper) and green onions. If you need a darker color, you can use kitchen bouquet. Bring to a boil and stir. Add rice and stir again. Cook approximately 20 minutes on low heat. Remove lid and turn rice over. Do not stir a lot! Replace lid and cook approximately 10 more minutes. Then, do not open pot….turn off the fire, leave the lid on, and let Jambalaya rest 20 MINUTES with the LID ON. Remove lid and fluff Jambalaya. Should be perfect!!!

Serve with white or French bread and Miller Lite, and you too will be a coonass.

** you can adjust the rice and chicken stock…. Just remember to use 2 parts liquid to 1 part rice.



You have heard me talk about it... here's your chance to do it yourself!

Louisiana Boudin

2 1/2 pounds pork butt, cut into 1-inch cubes
1/2 pound pork liver, rinsed in cool water
2 quarts water
1 cup chopped onions
1/2 teaspoon minced garlic
1/2 cup chopped green bell peppers
1/2 cup chopped celery
4 1/4 teaspoons salt
2 1/2 teaspoons cayenne
1 1/2 teaspoons ground black pepper
1 cup finely chopped parsley
1 cup chopped green onions tops, (green part only)
6 cups cooked medium-grain rice
1 1/2-inch diameter, casings, about 4 feet in length

In a large sauce pan, combine the pork butt, pork liver, water, onions, garlic, bell peppers, celery, 1 teaspoon salt, 1/4 teaspoon cayenne, and 1/4 teaspoon black pepper. Bring the liquid up to a boil and reduce to a simmer. Simmer for 1 1/12 hours, or until the pork and liver are tender. Remove from the heat and drain, reserving 1 1/2 cups of the broth. Using a meat grinder with a 1/4-inch die, grind the pork mixture. 1/2 cup of the parsley, and 1/2 cup of the green onions, together. Turn the mixture into a mixing bowl. Stir in the rice, remaining salt, cayenne, black pepper, parsley, and green onions. Add the broth, 1/2 cup at a time, and mix thoroughly. Either using a feeding tube or a funnel, stuff the sausage into the casings and make 3-inch links. Bring 1 gallon of salted water up to a boil. Poach the sausage for about 5 minutes, or until the sausage is firm to the touch and plump. Remove from the water and allow to cool.



The following recipes can be gathered to make one amazing meal.


Andre’s Pan Fried Chicken

3 pounds chicken breasts and legs
1 egg
2/3 cup buttermilk
2 cups flour
Salt, to taste
1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper
1 teaspoon black pepper
1 cup lard or crisco
1 cup solid white vegetable shortening

Let chicken warm to room temperature. Wipe with a damp cloth. In a wide bowl, beat egg with buttermilk.

Place flour, salt and peppers in a brown paper bag. In a large skillet (preferably cast iron) heat lard and shortening. Dip each piece of chicken into the buttermilk-egg mixture and place in a brown paper bag. Close top of bag and shake until piece is well coated. Remove, and repeat for each piece.

When shortening is hot (375 degrees F on a deep-fat thermometer), ease chicken into pan and cook over high heat, turning so both sides cook evenly. Do not crowd more than a few pieces of chicken into pan at one time. When chicken is light gold on both sides, turn down heat to low and partially cover skillet. Cook 15 minutes, turning chicken once.

Remove chicken and drain on brown paper bags. Serve warm or cold. Serves 6 to 8, or André and his brother Allen.


...and on the side....

White Bean and Corn Relish


2 pound white beans, soaked overnight and rinsed
4 bay leaf
4 cups freshly shucked corn (or canned shoepeg works great)
4 tablespoons chopped shallots
Olive oil for cooking
2 cups small diced cucumber
8 tablespoons small diced red bell pepper
1 1/2 tablespoons chopped fresh thyme
4 tablespoon champagne vinegar
8 tablespoons olive oil
Salt and pepper
Creole spice(your house blend!)

In a small sauce pan cook the beans until tender: drain and rinse. Cooking time depends on how old the beans are. In a small saute pan cook the corn and the shallots in hot oil until tender, about 3 minutes. Season with creole spice. Set aside to cool. In a small bowl combine the cooled beans, cooled corn and shallots, cucumbers, peppers, thyme, vinegar and oil. Season highly with house or Creole spice.
Yield: 12 cups


Andre’s Favorite ColeSlaw Dressing

1 tablespoon fresh, finely minced garlic
1 ¼ cups mayo
1/3 cup yellow mustard
3 ½ tablespoons sugar
1 tablespoon black pepper

Yield 2 cups


SLAW

15 cups shredded green cabbage
2 cups shredded purple cabbage
1 ½ cups finely chopped yellow onions
¾ cup finely chopped green bell peppers
2 tablespoons green onions
2 cups of coleslaw dressing

In a large mixing bowl, combine green cabbage, purple cabbage, onions, bell peppers, and green onions. Using hands, toss well. Add dressing, toss and serve.



LSU TIGER JALAPENO CORNBREAD

21/2 cups yellow cornmeal
1/2 cup flour
2 eggs
1 tbl. sugar
1 tsp. salt
2 tsps. baking powder
8 ozs. cream-style corn
1/2 cup chopped pimento
3/4 cup chopped jalapeño peppers
3/4 cup grated Cheddar cheese
Buttermilk
Oil

1. In a large bowl, mix all ingredients together except buttermilk and oil. Add buttermilk, stirring in, until you achieve a medium-thick batter.

2. Pour batter into a well-oiled cast-iron skillet and bake at 400 degrees for about 30 minutes or until a toothpick comes out clean when inserted into the center.

Enjoy as a side dish with red beans, white beans, friend catfish, or you name it.



OK, It ain't cajun, but I love it just the same.....

André’s Favorite Meat Ragu


2 lbs. lean ground beef

2 tbls. olive oil

1 lb. ground pork or 1 medium pkg. of pork spareribs

1 medium red onion, chopped

2 cups chopped yellow onions

1 cup chopped bell pepper

2 stalks celery, chopped

4 cloves garlic, minced

1 lb. Italian link sausage (I like the spicy here, but sweet works well, too)

2 (6-oz.) cans tomato paste

2 (6-oz.) cans tomato sauce

2 (10-oz.) cans tomato purée (San Marzano if you can swing it)

1 (10-oz.) can Rotel diced tomatoes and green chilies

4 tbls. dark brown sugar

3 bay leaves

1/2 tsp. dried basil

1/2 tsp. dried oregano, crushed

1/2 tsp. dried rosemary, crushed

1 tsp. cayenne pepper

1 tsp. Old Bay seasoning

1/2 tsp. Italian seasoning

1 tsp. Tony Chachere's Original Seasoning
(or your favorite cajun seasoning)
1 tsp. kosher salt

4 cups water (use some to rinse out tomato paste cans before adding water to pot)

6 cups chicken stock or broth

1/2 bunch fresh chopped curly parsley

1. In a large Dutch oven, stew pot or Le Creset pot, brown ground beef in olive oil. Remove browned meat from pot and set aside. If using ground pork, brown in same pot. Remove from pot and set aside.

2. Add onions, bell pepper, celery and garlic and sauté until transparent.

3. While the meats are browning and vegetables are sautéing, cut sausage into 1/2-inch pieces and cook in a 350-degree oven for 10-15 minutes. Drain oil and set aside.

4. Add tomato paste to the Dutch oven (my large le cruset pot is perfect!) with the sautéed vegetables. If using spareribs, also add at this time. Stir and blend for 10 to 15 minutes, being careful not to let the tomato paste burn or stick.

5. Add the tomato sauce, tomato purée, all seasonings and Rotel tomatoes and cook on low heat for 30 minutes, stirring gently to keep mixture from sticking. Add fresh chopped parsley, simmer on low for an additional hour. Add chicken broth to get the gravy the right thickness... the way you like it!



This one is one of my old stand-bys......


Andre’s Smothered Pork Chops

Sides: Put on a pot of white rice, and stew some okra or green beans with bacon and onion. Biscuit would be nicey-nice.

Serves 4 normal people, or Andre and his brother Allen.

4 bone-in rib loin pork chops, cut about 3/4-inch thick
Ground black pepper
Salt
1 tbl. olive oil
2 tbls. all-purpose flour
2 tbls. vegetable oil
2 medium onions, sliced thin
2 garlic cloves, minced
1/2 bell pepper, coarsely chopped
1 carrot, thinly sliced
1 tbl. brown sugar
1 cup chicken broth
1 tsp. Worcestershire sauce
1 baked sweet potato, cut into chunks
3 tbls. fresh minced parsley
Cooked rice

1. Season pork chops with pepper and salt.

2. Sear (brown) chops in heated olive oil over medium-high heat. Remove chops, set aside.

3. Make a roux in the same skillet with the flour and oil added to the browned bits left in the skillet from the chops. Cook to a medium-brown color.

4. Stir onions, garlic, bell pepper and carrot slices into the hot roux and stir and turn vegetables until they are coated with the roux. Lower heat and put top on skillet to sweat the vegetables for about 10 minutes as they brown.

5. Return chops and any juices from the chops to the skillet. Mix brown sugar into the vegetables and chops, cover skillet and cook for 5 minutes more.

6. Uncover skillet and add chicken broth, Worcestershire sauce, chunks of sweet potato and additional seasoning if desired. Stir to make sure the vegetables are covered evenly with the broth. Cover again and simmer for 30 minutes or until chops are tender and the gravy has thickened nicely.

7. If the gravy gets too thick as it simmers, add a couple of tablespoons of water to thin it.

8. Sprinkle chopped parsley over chops and gravy and serve with cooked rice.

Note: Sometimes I add a can of good quality tomatoes when I stir in the chicken broth. This dish reheats well, but why not just finish it off?