Rebirth

I Can Close My Eyes and Smell The Gumbo On The Stove



Monday night the New Orleans Saints will take the field against the Atlanta Falcons in the Louisiana Superdome. Nearly 70,000 Louisianians will gather and unite for something they truly love. Cheering on their Saints.

There will be precious little girls in black and gold cheerleading uniforms. Rough and crusty oyster fishman. A grandma sticking voodoo dolls with long stick pins. A guy dressed like the pope.

The concession stands will sell Popeye's Fried Chicken, Red Beans and Rice and Jambalaya.

And when the Saints emerge from the tunnel and enter the field, there will be tears.

To think what happened in that building just a year ago, this evening is somewhat of a miracle... and a rebirth.

A year after the events of Hurricane Katrina, I still have problems talking about it.

Unlike many people I meet in New York who can comment about what happened and what went wrong, I have very different perspective.

I was there.

Living in my hometown of Baton Rouge, watching the winds rip tree branches from the oaks that surrounded my home… I knew this was a storm we would never forget.

As much as I would like to expound on what happened in the days and weeks after the hurricane, I would rather use that energy to talk about the great city of New Orleans, and the one-of-a-kind food shops and restaurants that have made it back.

Below is a short list of restaurants and dives that I literally grew up in. The food is unmistakably New Orleans, and the atmosphere the same. Some of them you may have heard of… many of them you have not.

I’ll be back in New Orleans in a few weeks, and intend on visiting as many of these places as I can. Next time you visit, I strongly urge you to do the same. With over 50% of the restaurants and cafes still closed and likely never to reopen, it is important to celebrate the few that have made it back… and welcome them with open arms.

I hope you enjoy them as much as I do… I’ll see you at the bar.



Domilise Sandwich Shop & Bar
5240 Annunication Street , New Orleans, LA 70115

This small poboy shop in the garden district is the quintessential New Orleans dive. It also is the home of what many believe to be the best poboy in New Orleans… quite a statement. I tend to agree. The fried shrimp poboys are piled high with shredded lettuce and sour pickles, the crispy fried oysters sprinkled with fresh lemon and the roast beef, covered in rich beef gravy that is destined to drip down your forearms. This is the real deal… as the saying goes… as good as it gets.

Type of Establishment: American,Creole,Seafood,Po-Boys
Price Range: Inexpensive
Telephone: (504) 889-9126
Hours: Mon-Wed, Fri-Sat 10-7pm
Payments Accepted: Cash


Commerce Restaurant
300 Camp St. , New Orleans, LA 70130

Tradition, tradition. You know this place. Baskets of Tom’s crackers and breadsticks on the counter with a dish of butter pats. Paper napkins. Ice tea. This is that plate lunch joint that always has the stuff you wish you had made that day, but was just too much work (red beans, greens, gumbo, etc). I’ll bet you make friends with someone you’ve never met over lunch.

Type of Establishment: Bkft/Lunch,Creole,Seafood,Po-Boys
Price Range: Inexpensive
Telephone: (504) 561-9239
Hours: 6:00am to 2:30pm Monday – Friday

Johnny's Po-Boys
511 St. Louis Street , New Orleans, LA 70130


Likely the only place in the French Quarter where you can get a real poboy, and a good one at that. I lean towards the roast beef here, but in truth, they can all hold their own. These guys close early, so don’t procrastinate.

Type of Establishment: American,Po-Boys
Price Range: Inexpensive
Telephone: (504) 523-9883
Hours: 8:00am to 4:30pm Monday - Friday, 9:00am to 4:00pm Saturday - Sunday
Payments Accepted: Cash

Mother's
401 Poydras Street , New Orleans, LA 70130


Maybe the most famous poboy shop in the Big Easy, and the process reflect. Tourists come in droves, but truth be told so do many locales… as the black ham with debris poboy may be the best in town. If you have never been here, the long line that forms out the kitchen door may be worth your wait. Stick with the sandwiches and Red Beans on Mondays.

Type of Establishment: Creole,Cajun,Po-Boys
Price Range: Inexpensive
Telephone: (504) 523-9656
Hours: Mon-Sat 7:30am-8pm
Payments Accepted: American Express,Master Card,Visa,Cash

Drago's
3232 N. Arnoult Road , Metairie, LA 70002


Words can’t describe Dragos. First, know that the BBQ Oyster was invented here. What is it? A fresh shucked oyster on half shell, topped with lemon, butter, garlic and cheeses, then grilled over a open BBQ until hot and bubbly. When you walk through the front door, you’ll see no less that 40 dozen stacked high… as every single table starts with at least a dozen. All the food is great, but don’t kid yourself… the oysters have people driving in from Mississippi.

Type of Establishment: Seafood
Price Range: Moderate
Telephone: (504) 888-9254
Hours: Mon-Fri 11-8:30pm; Sat 3-9pm
Payments Accepted: American Express,Master Card,Visa,Cash

R & O Restaurant
216 Old Hammond Hwy , Metairie, LA 70005

Maybe the most famous neighborhood joint in New Orleans, on the lakefront in Metarie. A classic dive, the food here is legendary…. Hot shrimp and oyster loaves, plates of spaghetti, boiled crabs and crawfish in season…. Ice cold Miller Lite. It’s a gem, and I know few people in South Louisiana who haven’t been there.

Type of Establishment: Italian,Pizza,Seafood,Po-Boys
Price Range: Moderate
Telephone: (504) 831-1248
Hours: Wed-Sat 11:30-3pm, 5:30-8:30pm
Payments Accepted: Master Card,Visa,Cash

Bayona
430 Dauphine Street , New Orleans, LA 70112


Is it possible that Susan Spicer was the first to really succeed at Haute Creole commercially? I think so. And years after her magnificent Bayone opened in the Quarter, it continues to thrive. This is not a traditional creole joint as you or I know it… but an experience of all of the flavors we love, in a way you’ve never tasted. Long live Bayone, and the creative genius of Susan.

Type of Establishment: American,Creole,French
Price Range: Expensive
Telephone: (504) 525-4455
Hours: Tues-Sat 6pm; Wed-Fri 11:30-1:30pm
Payments Accepted: American Express,Master Card,Visa,Cash


Commander's Palace
1403 Washington Avenue , New Orleans, LA 70118


What can be said? This kitchen, as well as the watchful eye of Ella Brennan has spawned some of the nations finest chefs. The dishes at Commanders are as much of a staple as salt and pepper in any Louisiana kitchen, and the community embraces this institution unlike any other. You can still sip a .25 cent martini at lunch (or free is you are a woman eating alone) and the turtle soup has never been better. I’ve often been asked where I would eat my last meal, and without question, it would be here.

Type of Establishment: American,Creole,French,Cajun
Price Range: Expensive
Telephone: (504) 899-8221
Hours: 'til 9:45p Daily
Payments Accepted: American Express,Master Card,Visa,Cash

Irene's Cuisine
539 St. Philip Street , New Orleans, LA 70116

You can’t help but love Irene’s. It’s in restaurants like this one the Italian heritage of the city pours through, in spectacular fashion. When the creole and Italian flavors cross, you can understand the glory this culture…taking something great, and making it even better. Irene’s is a classic.

Type of Establishment: Creole,Italian
Price Range: Unknown
Telephone: (504) 529-8811
Hours: Mon-Sat 5:30-10pm
Payments Accepted: Master Card,Visa,Cash

Cafe D' Alsace: Worth The Trip

The Evolution of the Perfect NY French Bistro


New Yorkers have never had a problem locating a French bistro in a town brimming with international cuisine. From high end celebrity owned dining rooms to neighborhood eateries, finding the perfect plate of steak frites has become a rite of passage for the die hard NYC foodie.

I like my Steak Frites.

Since moving to New York, I’ve been impressed by the Tour De France NYC food group… a corporate gathering of 9 restaurants serving a variety of regional French fare. These include the very popular French Roast cafes (Parisian cuisine), L’ Express (Lyonnaise Cuisine), Maison (Cuisine of Brittany) and one of my UWS favorites, Nice Matin (Nicoise Cuisine).



Joining the family this year is a new star shining bright on the Upper East Side, Café D’Alsace… serving mainly Alsacienne fare.

First, getting to Café D’Alsace is simple. From the Upper West, you can fly across the park on the 86 bus and walk 2 blocks. If you find yourself in the neighborhood with time to spare, you’ll find Irish Pubs, German sausage shops and a variety of mom and pops with great stuff to eat and drink.

I love the look and feel of this place. It reminds me of numerous neighborhood joints in and around the Marais District in Paris… and that’s a good thing. It’s inside/outside setting makes the dinner experience even more special.

As far as hype, the Café launched with fanfare… but not pointing at it’s terrific food menu… but it’s beer selection. The beer listing is huge, and the selection is varied and eclectic. You’ll find many Café norms like Chimay and Stella… but you’ll also find micro-batch brews from Belgium, France and Germany. You can have some fun drinking your way through this menu.



As good as the beers are, the food is better. First, any place that has bone marrow on the menu has a warm place in my heart. But if bone marrow slathered on toast isn’t your thing, Café D’Alsace offers a dozen terrific apps including a simple Arugula Salad with roasted beets, a Foie Gras Terrine, a delicious cabbage and white bean soup, warm leeks with truffle oil and the dish I sampled… a warm Goat Cheese Tatin, that was out of this world.

It would be easy to plop down at Café D’Alsace and order the safe but outstanding plate of Steak Frites… but with fresh fish selections, lamb shanks with spaetzle, roasted Duck Breast, Wild Mushroom Ravioli and amazing homemade sausages (including duck, pork, seafood and boudin blanc) you may want to rethink your selection. Also available is a fantastic bistro burger with sweet onions and all the sides you’ve come to know and love when eating this type of fare.

Of course, the coffees are great… and have to be to keep up with an outstanding selection of desserts. Classic Crème Brulee, warm Brioche cake, Apple Tart, a decadent flourless chocolate cake… the list goes on and on. Throw in fresh sorbets and ice creams and you can expect a serious stomach ache.


As much as I love the UWS Nice Matin, I love Café D’Alsace even more. The neighborhood setting is a bit more gritty and unpretentious, the atmosphere even more authentic, and the food just downright great. I am guessing the neighborhood agrees… as the evening I ate there the place was jammed by 7:30.

Do yourself a favor, and hop on the bus, and get yourself up to the Upper East Side. Café D’Alsace is a slice of Europe in a charming spot… again proving that you don’t have to book a flight overseas to enjoy the best in euro eats. I’ll see you there.

Alain Ducasse: Simply Sublime

How exactly do you blog about a meal at Alain Ducasse?

It’s me, André… the guy who eats snap skin hot dogs and andouille gumbo. The guy who can get as excited about a carnitas burrito as a rack of lamb. Holy crap, I eat Kraft Mac n’ Cheese.

In the same breath I can say that I have experienced meals at some of the world’s finest restaurants… Chicago’s Charlie Trotter’s, Amsterdam’s Blue Pepper, Istanbul’s Kosebasi, Rome’s Vivendo and Toyko’s Aragawa. I get around.

Well. Last night in New York, I had a culinary experience I had yet to experience in the city. I was the guest of Chef Alain Ducasse at his restaurant in the Essex House… and as you can imagine, it was an experience I won’t soon forget.

First of all, trying to blog about Ducasse is like trying to tell you why I like a painting at MOMA. Me describing the dishes to you would equate to me describing the brush strokes. Alain Ducasse is an experience, as much as it is a dining destination. His dishes are theatre, and the flavors are so simply complex (yes, read that again) that all you can do is buckle in for the evening, and savor every moment.

What exactly did I eat? I”ll tell you.

But first, let’s get a few things out of the way.

This place is crazy expensive. So expensive that if you need to ask, you likely shouldn’t be eating here. The basic menu will run you about $160 a person without a beverage… the good menu over $180, and the seasonal tasting menus about $250. The wines are exquisite, and priced as such. The service is attentive without being overbearing and the atmosphere dripping with elegance. You’ll need a jacket, and I didn’t see a male patron without a tie as well. It’s proudly stuffy, in it’s own pretentious way…. but that feeling leaves about the time the sliver tray of hand made artisan breads find your table.

On this night, I enjoyed the following dishes. Here are my thoughts.

I started with: Peekytoe crabmeat, gazpacho gelée, Heirloom tomato granite.

The crabmeat was formed into a solid slab, topped with thinly sliced tomatoes. The crab, delicious and fresh, was similar to the grade we enjoy in South Louisiana, where much of the nation’s crabmeat is harvested. For those who know crab, the Peekytoe is an interesting story, as this Maine sand crab was known as a throw-away product by lobster fishermen for years, until they changed the name in the late 90’s to Peekytoe… and poof! A new crab was born and is now shipped to the worlds finest chefs. The gelée was lost on me a bit, but the crushed ice granite was nothing short of exceptional, complimenting the sea flavored main dish with earthy, sweet tomato granules. Overall, this dish was sublime and set the table.

Next, I ordered the Maine lobster, steamed haricots verts, sugar snap/English peas, fava beans.

The lobster arrived as a smallish tail, placed on its side in the center of the plate. Small drops of herb infused oils dotted the plate, and framed the palate for the green bean/snap pea mixture placed to accompany the lobster. The lobster meat was buttery delicious, and the entire plate had a common thread of flavor that had been well conceived. It was a winning dish.

The main entrée?....Roasted and glazed milk fed veal, wild mushrooms/asparagus "fricassée".

The veal was thick and flavorful, and surprisingly included a ribbon of fat (for flavor), a detail missing from most restaurant versions of this cut. Again, the simplicity of the ingredients in this dish is what shines. Ducasse is a genius when it comes to allowing his main ingredients to strut their stuff… and he’s not one to cover the pure essence of these flavors with heavy sauces.

Finally desert….. an Apricot/Sicilian pistachio soufflé, marmalade & sorbet.

Hard to out his into words. Well made soufflés are nothing short of spectacular, and this one was no exception. It was served along side of a scoop of apricot sorbet sprinkled with roasted pistachio nuts. This dish may be worth the trip alone.

Final synopsis?

If severely refined French cooking isn’t your thing, you won’t like Alain Ducasse.

These dishes have no reflection on NYC… and actually scream of his other restaurants in Paris and Tokyo (Ducasse is connected to some 30 restaurants). You could certainly close your eyes and beam yourself to a place far, far away.

Remember, this experience isn’t all about food. A night at Alain Ducasse is decadent. From the moment you enter to the second you leave, you are a special guest… and you know it. This evening is about sending your senses into overdrive, and the kitchen skillfully and shamefully renders you senseless as they provide a seemingly endless supply culinary delights.

If you love food and dining, you owe it to yourself to have an evening at Alain Ducasse. You just might need to borrow from your Christmas Fund to pull it off…..

Naked In Amsterdam

Living off the street and loving every minute of it



I’ve been here in Amsterdam, Netherlands for 3 days, and today realized something startling.

I am the largest person in this country.

Not only am I the largest at 6’2, 280, I am the largest by about 70 pounds or so. I mean, I just can't find another big guy on the street. Nowhere. Nada.

That said, I did find the one and only Big and Tall Men’s Clothier in Holland yesterday (a hobby of mine), and concluded that if in fact I did live here, I would most likely be naked. That’s based on the fact that t-shirts in this joint cost $45 dollars, jeans $110, and a jacket, $150. With the amount of clothes I need, I’d be out of cash before I filled my sock drawer.

So how do they do it?.. Stay so fit? Is it because they all (and I mean all) ride bikes? Walk everywhere? Eat healthier? Drink wine? Smoke grass? (ok, just the kids)

I say this as I watch some thin guy down a buttery Apple Pancake washed down with a double cappuccino.

I think its in the genes.

None the less, I’ve had fun eating here for a few days. Yes, you can always find your pancakes, gouda cheese plates, tomato soup, fried sausage croquettes and canal-side herring stands (yuch)….. but I always love to eat ethnic food in this part of Europe, as the mix of people has had such an amazing impact on the cuisine (think Indian food in London).

One of my favorite eats here are Falafel. There is a joint that makes darn near the best I have ever had… so I have had 3 since I arrived. It’s called MOAZ, and who knew, it’s a vegetarian place. (for more, http://www.moazveg.com )

This is no run of the mill falafel. These are incredibly flavorful, fried to just the right size. They stuff their homemade pita bread (fresh from the toaster), hit it with chopped lettuce, and then you stuff it full with a salad bar full of goodiess like pickles, beets, peppers, etc. Top it off with some yogurt sauce and get busy.

Some research on my part (not much) did show a lone USA location, in Philly. But for some reason, I’d bet the one here tastes better. Maybe it’s the 90 foot Heineken sign hanging above my head.

Other street food here includes Hot Dogs, which are terrific (any hot dog made east of the Atlantic is made with love), the fore-mentioned herring stands, pastry and waffle shops, and lots of ice cream. Throw in about 100 Belgian French Fry stands and you could give yourself a serious stomach ache.

I haven’t actually eaten in a “real” restaurant yet, but I’ve never been a fan of Dutch cuisine. So the pubs and schwarma stands will just have to do.

NEW YORK CALLS

There is good falafel and amazing Halal food (street meat) in New York City… and many will argue the best Halal can be found at the corner of 53rd and 6th Avenue.

This cart is soooo popular, they often have a line nearly ½ city block long. They open at 7:30pm and remain open until 4am. The line is there all night. No joke.

A week ago, I decided I couldn’t take it anymore, and walked down there after working late one night.

I had the chicken and rice platter for a whole $5. This is a container packed with chicken, yellow rice, pita triangles and lettuce that must weigh 10 pounds. The meat here is halal, which means it is produced hormone free and in a humane way, according to Muslim laws. Ask for the spicy red sauce (just a bit)and the magic white yogurt sauce… and damn. Amazing. Now I know why they line up. You will not believe this value, and it just tastes terrific. What a find.

They are so popular, they now have their own website: www.53rdand6th.com .

TIP OF THE WEEK

If you are in need of that perfect midtown joint, visit one of my favorite spots here - http://midtownlunch.wordpress.com . This site has all of the scoop on where to eat in the black hole that is Midtown NYC.

Until then, I’ll see ya at 49th and 6th. Ciao from Amsterdam.

Bella Luna: Struggling To Be Average

Missing The Mark On The Upper West Side



I’ve never quite understood how a barely average restaurant can survive in New York.

With a high concentration of well above average places… especially Italian spots… it would seem that any place that didn’t do at least one thing well… well, would shutter it’s doors.

Bella Luna is a classic example of a destination that just misses the mark... but has remianed open for a long time.


On the outside, the store has a few things going for it… a great location, on the corner, outside seating in season, a bar… etc. The rest is a miss.

First, the staff (although friendly) is robotic and absent. They simply go through the motions, yes to his, no to that. There is no personal service, no recommendations, no nothing.

“How are the specials today?” we asked. “I don’t know. We’re not allowed to try any of them,” she replied. “They look pretty good.”

Hmmmm.

“The veal… it comes with pasta I see. Can I get it with meat sauce?” I asked.

“Yes. For an extra three dollars.” She replied.

See where I am going with this?

Inside the bland dining room (turn the lights down maybe?) we sat. The somewhat dressy room was filled with very casual diners, a welcome sight in a nice Upper West Side neighborhood. Unfortunately the décor and menu have nothing in common.

The menu itself is fairly simple, with some apps, salads, pasta dishes, fish (small selection) and veal/chicken dishes.

We started with a plate of beets with goat cheese, which were fine and uneventful.

This was followed by a house salad.. a plate of mixed baby greens (average) with a house dressing plopped on top. Note to chef: take a moment and do your guests a favor… toss this salad in a bowl with the dressing, and hit it with some course salt and fresh cracked black pepper. Then place it next to the salad you serve now… and ask yourself which one you would rather eat.

Our main courses came next… one, a special of the day… an artichoke ravioli in a pink sauce. I thought this might be a special sauce, until I saw it on the menu as a regular item… which means this is the incarnation of a lazy kitchen. Again, the dish (which had a few grilled chicken tenders added) was spectacularly average.

The other dish was a veal parm, with a side of pasta and meat sauce. The veal was barely average, and the pasta well, well below average. Lumped onto the plate with the veal, it was terribly overcooked in a meat ragu with very little flavor. I cook much richer sauces at home with likely half of the resources of their commercial kitchen. Shame shame.


I failed to mention that I opted out of ordering a bottle of outrageously priced wine, and ordered a glass of house white, which was undrinkable… and believe me, I’m easy when it comes to wine.

There was a dessert menu, but with the level of quality where it was, we decided to walk next door and try the frozen yogurt.

What makes me steam about restaurants like Bella Luna is the lost potential of all of it. A great locale, loyal neighborhood and seemingly fixable kitchen. I know this place has been here forever… but let me lend the owner this advice… take a long look at your menu from top to bottom, then go out to eat. Experience the range of top shelf Italian cooking in the city, and compare your fare. If you shy away from your own dishes… make a change. I’m not telling you to pretend to be a Lupa or Felidia… but be something. Your lost identity and run of the mill menu will soon fade into NYC restaurant oblivion.

I won’t be back.

Truth be told, you can have a much better meal a block away at Pesce Pasta… an unpretentious gem that will practically cook any dish you can dream up, at a cheaper price. It is a simple place with a simple menu… that doesn’t pretend to be something it’s not.

Stay tuned to Fork New York! I am headed to Europe with a report from Amsterdam… home of the world’s best bowl of tomato soup!

FAST FOOD HEAVEN? Chipotlé Is The Place

Why Did It Take So Long To Figure It Out?



It’s true. Fast food has become a dirty word.

But when you think of fast food, don’t you think greasy burgers? Fries? Fried Chicken?

Well, there is a trend sweeping the country, and that’s fresher fast food. Yes, it still may be served on a paper plate or in a wax wrapper… but that doesn’t mean that it can’t taste good, and be good for you. Or at least… better for you.


This is where the new fresh-mex concept CHIPOTLE comes in. Like the earlier Baja Fresh, these guys hit the market with fresher that fresh ingredients, no freezers and no microwaves. This means your food was made fresh, likely a few minutes ago, and may actually taste that way.

Before I dive in, let me fill you in on a few things….

McDonald's owns 90% of Chipotle Mexican Grill.
Competitor Baja Fresh is owned by a subsidiary of Wendy's.
Competitor Qdoba was acquired by Jack in the Box in 2003.

This is a big deal in the food world. There is a lot of money to be made here.


The menu concept at Chipotle is genius. You have very little to choose from… a burrito, a fajita burrito, a burrito Bowl (or as they call it, Bol), soft or hard tacos… and a salad.

Once you figure out what it is you’ll have, you pick the meats. Marinated, grilled chicken, hand chopped steak, braised carnitas, spicy barbacoa (shredded beef… and my favorite) or vegetarian (surprisingly good).

The meats are not your run-of-the-mill fast food quality fare. This is marinated, grilled and stewed stuff. You'll be shocked.

From there, you tell your new friends behind the counter what condiments you’d like (fresh sliced romaine lettuce, pinto or delicious black beans, etc) and choose a homemade salsa.

The salsa is downright great. As I love the medium hot Tomatillo-Green Chili, the Roasted Chili Corn, Tomatillo-Red Chili and Fresh Tomato are all wunderbar.

To top things off, Chipotle makes their guacamole fresh by hand several times a day, along with great tortilla chips. A case of ice cold Mexican beers are available to wash it all down.


So why the big deal? Maybe because this place… a fast food place… nails all of the details. Why don’t other new stores (or older classics) get it? This average meal here will run you about $6.95, and in NYC, that is one helluva deal.

And if you can do the math, you can get your mind around this… you can get about 50,000 combinations with these 5 items. Uh, add sour cream please.

So, how popular is the place? There is a website dedicated to their fans… where you can chat, get coupons, find out about new locations and own the nutritional info (http://www.chipotlefan.com) . These guys are serious.

Otherwise, visit the real home at www.chipotle.com

Chipotle has smothered midtown Manhattan with a number of outlets… and more seem to keep coming. Do yourself a favor and hit one next time your hungry for something without the grease.

Oh yea, don’t forget the cold Modelo.


If you need the Guac now, here is the recipe!

Chipotle's Guacamole Recipe

Ingredients:
1 large ripe Hass avocado, peeled,pitted
2 teaspoons fresh lime juice
2 Tbsp chopped fresh cilantro
1/4 cup finely chopped red onions
2 cloves garlic, finely minced
1 serrano chili, seeded,chopped
1/4 teaspoon salt

Directions:
1. Mash up avocado with a fork.
2. Add lime juice.
3. Add all other ingredients and blend well.
4. Serve with tortilla chips.

Saigon Grill: Value and Taste = Winner

Expanding Across NYC, Saigon Continues To Get It Right



With football season almost here, I broke down and made a pot of chicken and okra gumbo over the weekend. I know, it’s still 80 degrees outside my door on Central Park, but I can’t help myself. Somehow I think that eating a bowl of gumbo will make fall arrive just a bit quicker. It’s football season. I can’t help myself.

So I broke out the large gumbo pot, stewed the okra and made a roux.

The weather stayed the same Sunday, but man that gumbo sure was good.

Earlier in the weekend, I finally made a visit to a place I’ve been order delivery from for months… and as impressed as I have been by the quality of the delivery, I was even more impressed by the massive operation Saigon Grill manages at their restaurant on a daily basis.

One reason I have avoided the spot, is the constant crowd that gathers. But hey, a neighborhood place that is packed usually tells you a few things… 1. the food is good, and 2. the food is cheap.

Saigon Grill is both good and cheap. There is a great deal of value here, and you don’t sacrifice taste with a low check…. if you haven’t been, you need to make the effort.

As I have loved Chinese food forever, it took me a while to discover and explore Vietnamese cooking. The flavors are more vibrant and fragrant, the recipes more complex and ingredients more varied. While Chinese can become bland and blah, Vietnamese food often embraces basil and curry… as well as lemon grass and noodles.

I gotta tell ya, I like it. A lot.

Saigon Grill in NYC is a slightly Americanized version of the hard core Vietnamese spots you’ll find below Houston Street, but delivers none the less.

Let’s start with apps.

As tasty as these are at Saigon Grill, I tend to order only one, as the dinners are large. Similar with many Thai spots, you’ll find different versions of soft summer rolls filled with shrimp, bean sprouts, herbs and vermicelli…and fried versions as well. But their best apps may just be the sugarcane shrimp, fried and wrapped around a slice of actual sugar cane or the Deep Fried Crabmeat on Claw. OK, so I like fried seafood.

The soup at Saigon is not to be missed…. as you guessed it, Pho Bo is the bomb. This dish was my first taste of Vietnamese cuisine, and in my opinion encompasses the very essence of the delicacies involved. Po Bo is an Ox Tail broth, filled with rice noodles and bean sprouts. Floating on top are paper thin slices of beef, to be added to the hot broth and swished shabu style until cooked (this takes about 30 seconds). To the table comes a plate of fresh basil, onion and hosing sauce…. Most of which make their way into the bowl. By this time, 4 or your 5 senses are on overload. Oh yea, a bowl of the stuff will set you back $2.95.

From here it gets complicated at Saigon Grill, because they serve so many damn dishes, you can’t choose.

You can go the safe route, and order a chicken dish like Basil Chicken, or Ga Xao Dau Que…. Sautéed chicken and string beans in garito sauce. There are chicken, pork and beef curry dishes with eggplant, onion, string beans and peppers served with pancakes…. Crispy whole fish served with sweet and sour sauce and a Seafood Bouillabaisse that would knock your socks off.

There are noodle dishes like the traditional Bun Xao, sticky rice noodles with shredded veggies, eggs and peanuts… Bun noodles, a rice vermicelli with cucumbers, herbs and the like… and Banh Hoi, a steamed angel hair dish with rice crepes and baby shrimp.

Getting hungry?

The friend rice dishes are fantastic as well. And is you feel the need to get really fresh, there is a full sushi menu with every roll under the sun, as well as decent grade sashimi.

Smart touches to the impressive menu include Ginger Ice Tea and Sticky rice and bean pudding for desert…. But by the time desert rolls around, I am usually in too much pain to consider giving it a whirl.

The success if Saigon Grill is no secret to most New Yorkers, as the fledgling chain now sports four locations in the city.

You’ve got my word, you’ll find solid stuff here… and more flavor than you’ll know what to do with. Choose wisely.

Saigon Grill

620 Amsterdam Ave- At 90th St
New York, NY 10024

212 875-9072
212 875-9073

(and several locations around the city)

In Case You Missed It...

Here's the skinny of what's happening in my favorite kitchens!




You may want to venture out into the concrete jungle one of these days… and when you do, you should check out this stuff happening right under your nose, slacker.


Bubble, Bubble…
You’ve heard about it. You’ve read about it. Now you need to drink it. That’s right, Bubble Tea, the asian inspired “drink du jour” is now flowing literally all over the city… although I still believe the best versions can be found in Chinatown.
Quickly (pictured) can get you started… but in my opinion, the best in the city is that of the frozen variety around the corner on Mott at Ten Ren. Caution: HIGHLY ADDICTIVE STUFF

Jiffy Pop It Ain’t
Yes, I am a popcorn freak. Do I own my own commercial popcorn machine? Yes. Do I use theatre grade coconut popping oil? Yes. Will I die of coronary disease at age 54? Likely. But I truly love the stuff, and consider it a major food group. But where can I eat good popcorn when I’m not at home? Well, in NYC options are limited, but Dale and Thomas is the right place to start. With gourmet options like Chocolate Chunk n’ Carmel, Ragin’ Cajun, Sweet Georgia Pecan, Sweet and Spicy BBQ, Buffalo and Blue Cheese and six or seven others, you should be able to find that satisfying crunchy snack brought to us by our friends, the American Indians. Oh yea, their plain old popped and Kettle Corn ain’t bad, either. Locations across Manhattan and at DaleandThomas.com

Power Brunching on the UWS
It can be said that the Upper West Side may have more brunch spots than any neighborhood in the city. Sure, the Village has it’s hangouts and the Lower East it’s funky dives… but for some reason, the sidewalk café scene on the UWS has evolved into a genre all it’s own. For my money, GOOD ENOUGH TO EAT may be one of the neighborhood’s best. Why? Well, homemade corned beef hash for one… with huge chunks of deli grade corned beef, fresh cut potatoes and onions. I had my plate with scrambled eggs and a side of grits and scratch biscuits. I could have opted for the Peach French Toast… but why have the girly meal when I could consume an additional 1000 calories?

Can It Be?
Can is be that the city’s best Chinese restaurant is a Bayard Street dive? Word on the street is that NEW GREEN BO may be not only the best kept secret, but simply the best Chinese restaurant in NYC…. and after a visit, I may believe the hype. You can get it all here… tiny steamed pork buns, shu-mei, cold and hot noodles, boneless pig leg, crispy eel, winter melon soup, and nearly 100 variations of your favorite lobster, shrimp, pork, chicken, beef and vegetable dishes. It’s all dirt cheap and piled high. An important observation: they’ve got your sesame chicken, but if I were you, I wouldn’t make the trip and miss the beef stew over rice. 66 Bayard Street btw Mott and Elizabeth in Chinatown

Smoke Em While You Can
It wasn’t long ago I told a friend of mine that it would be a cold day in hell before NYC outlawed smoking in bars in this city. I bet him $20 bucks. Well, needless to say that money is long gone, and I am without a place to sip a martini and enjoy a fine crafted cigar….. almost.
In the rebellious style of the prohibition days of the past, FLORIO’S, a wonderful old school Italian joint in Little Italy has been able to “skirt” the issue, and allows patrons to light ém up at the bar, in the front of the restaurant. Larry, the kind and hospitable owner can show you his vast selection of top shelf stogies, but do yourself a favor and request one of his own hand-rolled, spicy cigars he has made especially for his customers. Equally as tasty is Larry’s food, which features thin crust Roman style pizzas and wonderfully rich pastas, including my favorite there, the rigatoni con vodka, in a perfect pink sauce. Long live Florio’s.

When you need to be cool…
You roll out of bed, unshaven and slightly hungover. As you glance down you notice the alarm clock… 11:40am. Unable to actually speak a coherent phrase, you slide into your jeans and sandals, and make your way to the subway platform… headed to Brookyln’s DUMBO.
By noon, you’ve arrived at RICE, the uber cool rice house featuring ten types of the holy grain, from jasmine to Bhutanese red. You choose your rice, select a topping (the Thai Coconut Curry will do the trick) with a side of Aleppo yogurt. Washed down with a glass of fresh watermelon juice, you may be the hippest person in the five boroughs.

Batali's Babbo.... Bravissimo!

Once again, some of the city's best food is coming from Mario.



I’ll be the first to admit that I spend a good deal of time blowing smoke up Mario Batali’s rear end.

But, the truth is his restaurants are just down right terrific.

It’s one thing to promise and not deliver… but when you can have top notch meals at any of his restaurants on any given night without disappointment… well, you have something you need to share.



Mario’s Babbo is one strange bird. It is a cozy, charming 2-story space located steps from Washington Square, in a old brownstone conversion. But what you won’t find here is complete refinement. Yes, the appointments are stylized and classic, the wine list is smallish and wonderful and the staff expressive without being pushy. That said, don’t be surprised if you hear a musical selection by Pink Floyd or Def Leopard playing over the house sound system.

It’s that type of bizarre edge that has made Babbo such an interesting place over the years… a hint of unexpectedness that this space loves to embrace. And from the moment you hit the door, there is a scripted experience that awaits every customer. It has been carefully planned, and is honestly the reason this store has developed the following it has. This is a space with a story.

My experience last week started on a Friday evening at 5pm, without a reservation…. that is, I had no reservations.


We cued in line about 4:45, which I now know is almost too late. The doors to the wine bar open at 5pm, and it’s then the first six parties of 2-4 people can stake their claim on a table in the bar with the maitre’d… sans reservation. By a stoke of luck, we were party #6.

After putting our names on the list and being assured of a table in the bar area (hey it’s Babbo, you take what you can get) we sat at the handsome bar, and nibbled on tiny Spanish olives and crunchy, addictive asaigo breadsticks. The wine list is full of rich, decadent wines and I ordered a glass to ease the 20 minute wait to be sat.

Once we were seated, we watched as no less that 30 couples were turned away to dine elsewhere. Only a five minute walk, my guess is that many of them wound up at Otto, in the much larger bar. Note to self: call ahead for a good table. Like a month ahead.

Being fans of Mario’s pasta, it didn’t take long to settle on the Pasta Tasting Menu, an option that all parties must agree on. Although the menu had countless mouthwatering options, tasting menus are usually very well thought out. This was an opportunity I just couldn’t pass up.

So, after a delicious complimentary appetizer from the kitchen (I won’t ruin the surprise) the pasta began hitting the table.

This is what we experienced.




Black Tagliatelle with Roasted Corn
So much for getting off to a quiet start. This dish was spectacular in every aspect of the word. The flavors were perfectly balanced and appropriate for a light summer dish. They start here for a reason… this dish raises the bar. High.


Baccala “Mezzalune” with Black Olive Butter
Not as earth-shattering as the first, but a solid, well made dish. The baccala is a salt cod combined with potatoes, inside a ravioli. The butter and olives were the right combination to balance the sea-taste of the pasta. This was a decent portion, and left us wondering how much food we had signed up for.

Garganelli with “Funghi Trifolati”
Believe it or not, this was my first taste of garganelli pasta, and wow, I’m a fan. If you don’t know this pasta, it’s a thin, hand-rolled tube that is marked with thin slits to carry the sauce. The mushroom sauce was heavenly and this proved to be one of the best bites of the evening. At this point, we are getting full.

Fernando’s Pyramids with “Passato di Pomodoro”
Heavenly. Imagine pockets of fresh pasta, wrapped around fresh tomatoes,covered with shaved parm reggiano. I am stuffed.

Pappardelle Bolognese
By this point, Mario brings out pure simplicity. The ribbons of homemade pasta are lightly coasted with a slow cooked Bolognese of beef and veal. It is a delightful reminder of the culinary trip you just encountered… and serves as a welcome home. Never mind the fact that you are so full you can’t see straight.

As you would expect, there is not one, or two… but three courses of dessert. To get into this stage, we slowed waaaaaay down, had a cup of coffee and unbuttoned. 20 minutes later, we indulged in several delightful courses, including warm chocolate truffles as well as Olive Oil Gelato.

Cost wise, the Pasta Tasting Menu priced at $64. is a steal. Other spots can charge you up to or over $100 smackers for this kind of variety, but Babbo delivers for nearly half the price. If you feel like spending more, Babbo offers a wine compliment to this meal, with a new wine with each course. At an additional $50 it is a bargin, but be warned, you’re gonna be walking funny.

With Del Posto left to review, I salute the Batali empire and look forward to the next incarnation. If you haven’t visited in a while, I suggest you do so… you’ll remember your first time… and wonder why you have been away so long.

Mario's Magic in Greenwich Village

Simple and Extrodinary, Lupa Continues To Dazzle


Today my wife and I will celebrate our 16th wedding anniversary, and will undoubtedly wind up in a Mario Batali space… although I must admit, I haven’t decided which one. Being that we’ll be eating very, very early, reservations aren’t a grave concern… selecting a spot may be a tougher task. That said, it’s time we discussed what is likely my favorite Batali haunt.

For years, I sat on my couch and watched Mario Batali cook up his Italian wonders on the Food network, while wearing his “Lupa” chef coat.

Hmmm. Lupa. “Must be good,” I thought.

I had no idea.


Years later, there I was, sitting in the smallish, crowded, noisy dining room having one of those “oh my god” meals. You know the one…. each course better than the last… without getting too full to continue.

Lupa is a space and menu with direction and attitude. She knows who she is and what she is… and how she got there. She is confident but not cocky, while remaining playful and pristine. She is built upon a world of flavor… presenting dishes that know how to deliver that ever important massage.

That message of… “we get it.”

My first experience at Lupa was on a brisk October evening in Greenwich Village. I had no reservation, but would not be denied. As the doors opened at 5pm, I dashed in and promptly sat at the bar, happy as a clam. I wouldn’t think of wasting table space being this happy to have a seat at the bar.

Those who read this blog understand I almost never hesitate eating at the bar. And of course at Lupa’s bar, you get 5-star service and can eat from the same menu as those who called a month ago for a reservation. Joy.

So with a suggestion and a taste or two of the day’s wine selections, I began to sip and nibble my way through a grouping of dishes that were just irresistible. Warm olives, beets with pistachio, white beans. I had an assortment of thin sliced homemade Salumi and Coppa, and a parsley and pancetta salad that may be the most spectacular thing I have ever put in my mouth. Really.


For my primi, I selected the Bavette Cacio & Pepe… or pasta with cheese and pepper. It was stupendous in its simplicity, and I finished every bite. For those who love al dente pasta, Lupa is your mecca… if anything some complain about the pasta being under-cooked. It did take me by surprise, but I found the pasta to be firm to the bite and just perfect.

Not having any room for a second course, I ordered anyway.

The menu features a wonderful array of choices… lamb, duck, fish, pork…. you name it. I settled on a Pork Saltimbocca that I just couldn’t resist. Pork, prosciutto, sage. Good lord.

Glancing at my watch, I realize I have been going at this for a good 2 hours. Maybe that’s why I haven’t burst yet… I was taking my time. And you know what that means.

…dessert.

Delicate may be the word here… gelatos, panna cotta, mascarpone. Fragrant hard cheeses served with condiments including honey. Help me.

Well, by now you are likely getting the picture that Lupa pushes all of my buttons. Since that chilly fall night, I have returned several times, never to be disappointed. Although they have replaced my favorite salad with other dishes (but the do promise it to return) I find each selection special unto itself.

Lupa is simply one of those “chef owned” joints that just plain lives up to the hype. Without question, it is one of the top 5 Italian restaurants in this city, meaning… one of the finest in the country. Yes, Babbo is tremendous, Del Posto uber-pricy and Otto loud but delicious. But Lupa, in her own way, remains on top of the Batali empire as just plain spectacular.

Fire Up The Stove, We’re Cooking Creole In NYC

Fill Your Printer With Paper, These Are Recipes You're Gonna Print!





With thousands of restaurants in NYC, you could certainly make a case for eating out just about every night.

Of course, this line of thinking can also make a substantial dent in your wallet, so shopping and eating at home can be a good thing, too. And as you well know, we would do more of this if in fact we could get over the biggest hurdle... what are we having?

Well, creole and cajun cooking is custom fit for this delimma, as whatever you cook, you'll likely be eating it for a few days.

That's because Louisiana folks cook with two things in mind. First, they don't know who the hell is showing up for dinner, so you think of how many you may be serving, and then double it. Second, they know that today's good gumbo, will be tomorrow AMAZING gumbo, so they make enough to enjoy on day 2.. and 3... etc.

So, this week, we head into the kitchen, with a list of recipes I have gathered from previous posts on this blog... and a few new ones. They are really easy, and very authentic.... so make your grocery list, do a little shopping, and go for it!

Here are a few of my favorites.

Yes, It's a bit hot for this one, but what the hell... what's life without a bowl of gumbo?



Andre’s Gumbo Like I Like It

(Shrimp and Okra Version)

4- 5 Quarts Chicken Stock
4 pounds frozen okra
1 lrg can of diced tomatoes
1 regular can of diced tomatoes
2 large white onions, diced fine
3 tablespoons vegetable oil
1⁄2 teaspoon chopped garlic, fine
1⁄2 teaspoon salt
1⁄2 teaspoon black pepper
3⁄4 cup all purpose flour
3⁄4 cup vegetable oil
3 tablespoon of lea and perrin’s
2 tablespoons crystal hot sauce (or frank’s)
1 1⁄2 tablespoons of creole seasoning (Emerils or Tony’s)
2 bay leaves
1 teaspoon basil
1 teaspoon oregano
1⁄2 teaspoon thyme
2-3 tablespoons Kitchen Bouquet
Salt and pepper to taste
1 cup chopped parsley, fine
4 pounds peeled medium shrimp
Chopped green onions


In a separate pot, heat 3 tbl vegetable oil, and sauté white onions. Add garlic, frozen okra and tomatoes, season with salt and pepper, and cook over medium low heat until tender (at least an hour, if not longer). Okra should be very tender and want to break up. In a large stockpot, heat oil (3/4 cup) and add flour to make roux. Stir constantly over medium heat, making sure not to burn. Bring to desired color… peanut butter color is recommended for best flavor. Once desired color is reached, whisk in chicken stock, 4 qts first and save the rest if needed (chicken base dissolved in water can also be used , but NOT bullion). Add seasonings (wet and dry) and kitchen bouquet for desired color. Add okra mixture and bring to boil. Reduce to low simmer, and cook for 1 1⁄2 hours. Last half hour, add shrimp and parsley and simmer and very low temp, not to overcook shrimp. Serve in bowls, topped with a scoop of cooked long grain rice and top with sprinkle of green onion.

Gumbo is best if cooked day before. Make sure to cool completely before storing in fridge.



The perfect everyday, all day, what do I want to eat dish, Jambalaya.

André’s Chicken and Sausage Jambalaya

2 cups oil or BACON GREASE
5 lbs uncooked rice (mahatma is fine)
6 pounds chicken (thighs work great, also legs)
6 pounds sausage, sliced
4 lbs white onions, chopped fine
2 bunches green onions, chopped fine
2 pounds celery (2 bunches), chopped fine
2 pounds (6-8) green bell peppers, chopped fine
3 tbs. Minced Garlic
15 cups chicken broth or stock
½ cup crystal hot sauce
½ cup lea and perrins
1 bunch parsley
Salt
Pepper



DIRECTIONS

Season your raw chicken with Cajun seasoning (Tonys, etc) Cayenne pepper will also work. If using bacon grease, fry one pound of bacon very well in you heated jambalaya pot. Remove bacon, save and eat with your beer while you cook. Add you chicken pieces to hot grease. Fry until golden brown, remove and set aside. Add sausage and cook until pieces are nice and browned. Remove sausage. Remove almost all grease from pot. Add onions, celery, garlic and bell pepper and cook until golden brown. If onions start to stick, add small amount of water. Be careful not to burn onions. When onion mixture is cooked, add chicken and sausage, chicken stock, salt, pepper, lea and perrins, hot sauce, parsely, salt and pepper to taste (maybe 2 tbs of salt and 2 pepper) and green onions. If you need a darker color, you can use kitchen bouquet. Bring to a boil and stir. Add rice and stir again. Cook approximately 20 minutes on low heat. Remove lid and turn rice over. Do not stir a lot! Replace lid and cook approximately 10 more minutes. Then, do not open pot….turn off the fire, leave the lid on, and let Jambalaya rest 20 MINUTES with the LID ON. Remove lid and fluff Jambalaya. Should be perfect!!!

Serve with white or French bread and Miller Lite, and you too will be a coonass.

** you can adjust the rice and chicken stock…. Just remember to use 2 parts liquid to 1 part rice.



You have heard me talk about it... here's your chance to do it yourself!

Louisiana Boudin

2 1/2 pounds pork butt, cut into 1-inch cubes
1/2 pound pork liver, rinsed in cool water
2 quarts water
1 cup chopped onions
1/2 teaspoon minced garlic
1/2 cup chopped green bell peppers
1/2 cup chopped celery
4 1/4 teaspoons salt
2 1/2 teaspoons cayenne
1 1/2 teaspoons ground black pepper
1 cup finely chopped parsley
1 cup chopped green onions tops, (green part only)
6 cups cooked medium-grain rice
1 1/2-inch diameter, casings, about 4 feet in length

In a large sauce pan, combine the pork butt, pork liver, water, onions, garlic, bell peppers, celery, 1 teaspoon salt, 1/4 teaspoon cayenne, and 1/4 teaspoon black pepper. Bring the liquid up to a boil and reduce to a simmer. Simmer for 1 1/12 hours, or until the pork and liver are tender. Remove from the heat and drain, reserving 1 1/2 cups of the broth. Using a meat grinder with a 1/4-inch die, grind the pork mixture. 1/2 cup of the parsley, and 1/2 cup of the green onions, together. Turn the mixture into a mixing bowl. Stir in the rice, remaining salt, cayenne, black pepper, parsley, and green onions. Add the broth, 1/2 cup at a time, and mix thoroughly. Either using a feeding tube or a funnel, stuff the sausage into the casings and make 3-inch links. Bring 1 gallon of salted water up to a boil. Poach the sausage for about 5 minutes, or until the sausage is firm to the touch and plump. Remove from the water and allow to cool.



The following recipes can be gathered to make one amazing meal.

Andre’s Pan Fried Chicken

3 pounds chicken breasts and legs
1 egg
2/3 cup buttermilk
2 cups flour
Salt, to taste
1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper
1 teaspoon black pepper
1 cup lard or crisco
1 cup solid white vegetable shortening

Let chicken warm to room temperature. Wipe with a damp cloth. In a wide bowl, beat egg with buttermilk.

Place flour, salt and peppers in a brown paper bag. In a large skillet (preferably cast iron) heat lard and shortening. Dip each piece of chicken into the buttermilk-egg mixture and place in a brown paper bag. Close top of bag and shake until piece is well coated. Remove, and repeat for each piece.

When shortening is hot (375 degrees F on a deep-fat thermometer), ease chicken into pan and cook over high heat, turning so both sides cook evenly. Do not crowd more than a few pieces of chicken into pan at one time. When chicken is light gold on both sides, turn down heat to low and partially cover skillet. Cook 15 minutes, turning chicken once.

Remove chicken and drain on brown paper bags. Serve warm or cold. Serves 6 to 8, or André and his brother Allen.


...and on the side....

White Bean and Corn Relish


2 pound white beans, soaked overnight and rinsed
4 bay leaf
4 cups freshly shucked corn (or canned shoepeg works great)
4 tablespoons chopped shallots
Olive oil for cooking
2 cups small diced cucumber
8 tablespoons small diced red bell pepper
1 1/2 tablespoons chopped fresh thyme
4 tablespoon champagne vinegar
8 tablespoons olive oil
Salt and pepper
Creole spice(your house blend!)

In a small sauce pan cook the beans until tender: drain and rinse. Cooking time depends on how old the beans are. In a small saute pan cook the corn and the shallots in hot oil until tender, about 3 minutes. Season with creole spice. Set aside to cool. In a small bowl combine the cooled beans, cooled corn and shallots, cucumbers, peppers, thyme, vinegar and oil. Season highly with house or Creole spice.
Yield: 12 cups


Andre’s Favorite ColeSlaw Dressing

1 tablespoon fresh, finely minced garlic
1 ¼ cups mayo
1/3 cup yellow mustard
3 ½ tablespoons sugar
1 tablespoon black pepper

Yield 2 cups


SLAW

15 cups shredded green cabbage
2 cups shredded purple cabbage
1 ½ cups finely chopped yellow onions
¾ cup finely chopped green bell peppers
2 tablespoons green onions
2 cups of coleslaw dressing

In a large mixing bowl, combine green cabbage, purple cabbage, onions, bell peppers, and green onions. Using hands, toss well. Add dressing, toss and serve.



LSU TIGER JALAPENO CORNBREAD

21/2 cups yellow cornmeal
1/2 cup flour
2 eggs
1 tbl. sugar
1 tsp. salt
2 tsps. baking powder
8 ozs. cream-style corn
1/2 cup chopped pimento
3/4 cup chopped jalapeño peppers
3/4 cup grated Cheddar cheese
Buttermilk
Oil

1. In a large bowl, mix all ingredients together except buttermilk and oil. Add buttermilk, stirring in, until you achieve a medium-thick batter.

2. Pour batter into a well-oiled cast-iron skillet and bake at 400 degrees for about 30 minutes or until a toothpick comes out clean when inserted into the center.

Enjoy as a side dish with red beans, white beans, friend catfish, or you name it.



OK, It ain't cajun, but I love it just the same.....

André’s Favorite Meat Ragu

2 lbs. lean ground beef

2 tbls. olive oil

1 lb. ground pork or 1 medium pkg. of pork spareribs

1 medium red onion, chopped

2 cups chopped yellow onions

1 cup chopped bell pepper

2 stalks celery, chopped

4 cloves garlic, minced

1 lb. Italian link sausage (I like the spicy here, but sweet works well, too)

2 (6-oz.) cans tomato paste

2 (6-oz.) cans tomato sauce

2 (10-oz.) cans tomato purée (San Marzano if you can swing it)

1 (10-oz.) can Rotel diced tomatoes and green chilies

4 tbls. dark brown sugar

3 bay leaves

1/2 tsp. dried basil

1/2 tsp. dried oregano, crushed

1/2 tsp. dried rosemary, crushed

1 tsp. cayenne pepper

1 tsp. Old Bay seasoning

1/2 tsp. Italian seasoning

1 tsp. Tony Chachere's Original Seasoning
(or your favorite cajun seasoning)
1 tsp. kosher salt

4 cups water (use some to rinse out tomato paste cans before adding water to pot)

6 cups chicken stock or broth

1/2 bunch fresh chopped curly parsley

1. In a large Dutch oven, stew pot or Le Creset pot, brown ground beef in olive oil. Remove browned meat from pot and set aside. If using ground pork, brown in same pot. Remove from pot and set aside.

2. Add onions, bell pepper, celery and garlic and sauté until transparent.

3. While the meats are browning and vegetables are sautéing, cut sausage into 1/2-inch pieces and cook in a 350-degree oven for 10-15 minutes. Drain oil and set aside.

4. Add tomato paste to the Dutch oven (my large le cruset pot is perfect!) with the sautéed vegetables. If using spareribs, also add at this time. Stir and blend for 10 to 15 minutes, being careful not to let the tomato paste burn or stick.

5. Add the tomato sauce, tomato purée, all seasonings and Rotel tomatoes and cook on low heat for 30 minutes, stirring gently to keep mixture from sticking. Add fresh chopped parsley, simmer on low for an additional hour. Add chicken broth to get the gravy the right thickness... the way you like it!



This one is one of my old stand-bys......

Andre’s Smothered Pork Chops

Sides: Put on a pot of white rice, and stew some okra or green beans with bacon and onion. Biscuit would be nicey-nice.

Serves 4 normal people, or Andre and his brother Allen.

4 bone-in rib loin pork chops, cut about 3/4-inch thick
Ground black pepper
Salt
1 tbl. olive oil
2 tbls. all-purpose flour
2 tbls. vegetable oil
2 medium onions, sliced thin
2 garlic cloves, minced
1/2 bell pepper, coarsely chopped
1 carrot, thinly sliced
1 tbl. brown sugar
1 cup chicken broth
1 tsp. Worcestershire sauce
1 baked sweet potato, cut into chunks
3 tbls. fresh minced parsley
Cooked rice

1. Season pork chops with pepper and salt.

2. Sear (brown) chops in heated olive oil over medium-high heat. Remove chops, set aside.

3. Make a roux in the same skillet with the flour and oil added to the browned bits left in the skillet from the chops. Cook to a medium-brown color.

4. Stir onions, garlic, bell pepper and carrot slices into the hot roux and stir and turn vegetables until they are coated with the roux. Lower heat and put top on skillet to sweat the vegetables for about 10 minutes as they brown.

5. Return chops and any juices from the chops to the skillet. Mix brown sugar into the vegetables and chops, cover skillet and cook for 5 minutes more.

6. Uncover skillet and add chicken broth, Worcestershire sauce, chunks of sweet potato and additional seasoning if desired. Stir to make sure the vegetables are covered evenly with the broth. Cover again and simmer for 30 minutes or until chops are tender and the gravy has thickened nicely.

7. If the gravy gets too thick as it simmers, add a couple of tablespoons of water to thin it.

8. Sprinkle chopped parsley over chops and gravy and serve with cooked rice.

Note: Sometimes I add a can of good quality tomatoes when I stir in the chicken broth. This dish reheats well, but why not just finish it off?

In Case You Missed It, Again!

Because You Just Can't Remember It All......



Working too hard? Head in the clouds? Wondering what’s happening in the NYC culinary scene?

Time to catch up.



Every Bite With A Krunch
As if we didn’t need yet another pizza joint, the folks at Krunch Pizza Bar have opened their slender outlet to raves on the East Side… and with thin and crispy pies packed with items like proscuitto, polpetti (meatballs), shrimp and homemade mozzarella… a cab ride over may not be such a bad idea (2nd Ave btw 51st and 52nd)

She’s Back! She’s Back!
My vision of loveliness, the dear old polish woman who runs First Avenue Pierogie and Deli has returned from her annual trip to Eastern Europe, and is again making some of the best pierogie in the city. Keep in mind these little gems are to go, but all you need is a skillet and a stick of butter to transport yourself to Warsaw for the afternoon. (1st Ave btw 7th and St. Marks)

Polish Oasis
Speaking of pierogie, if you can’t wait and need them asap, there may be no better (or cheaper) place to get your fix than Neptune, the campy polish diner on the lower east side. What many people don’t know is that Neptune has a lush, relaxing garden out back and is a wonderful refuge on just about any summer afternoon or evening. And more importantly, they pan fry their pierogie to crispy perfection… and don’t deep fry like the other pretenders in the neighborhood (Veselka). (1st Ave at 12th)

All The Rage
Yes, chicken is exciting stuff and word has it that the folks at Dirty Bird To Go are doing it right. With double-dipped free range, slow-roasted and tasty fingers (no doubt an idea spawned by the success of Cane’s Chicken Fingers, the Baton Rouge phenomenon now sweeping the nation), those lucky enough swing by have been happy happy. Throw in a side of dirty rice, mac n’ cheese and cornbread and things can get downright silly. (7th Ave near 14th)

Is the Secret Out?
It wasn’t long ago that taco lovers were whispering the praises of La Esquina, the cooler-than-all-get-out Mexican joint near Nolita… but now?
Well, let’s just say that the secret door (see photo) that leads to the underground dining room brimming with pulled pork tortas and chorizo and potato tacos may no longer be a secret, but none the less, the food is happening and the scene is just downright cool. Bring an out-of-towner and freak ‘em out. (Kenmare at Lafayette)





When Godiva Just Won’t Do
Without anyone knowing it, NYC has turned into a chocolate Mecca. Jaques Torres may be the king, and Godiva may be in every neighborhood… but the best may lie in an Upper West Side boutique… Scharffen Berger. The stuff is likely the finest grade made in the US, and is sworn by famous chefs everywhere. Bakers swoon, but now you too can drop by and see for yourself. The difference? Scharffen Berger imports their own cacao beans and roasts them in small batches… resulting in a process as delicate as wine making. It really is that good… although, the chocolate covered Cheerios that Torres makes are as good as anything you’ll ever put in your mouth. (Amsterdam at 83rd)



Bits and Pieces
The Farmers Market at Rockefeller Plaza continues through mid-August with an array of fresh fruits and veggies, homemade pies, pretzen, plants and wines. Impress your co-workers.. swing over and buy a piece of fruit..... Is Olympic Pita in Brooklyn the owner of the best shwarma plate in NYC?.... they have many convinced..... Panya Bakery is your best opportunity to try japanese breads, and they do them well.... the Upper West Side's PizzaBolla continues to dish out super thin crust pizza, without the grease.... speaking of UWS, has anyone gone to Loft?...



RECIPE OF THE WEEK

I was in Michigan a few weeks ago, feeding a large group. As I usually cook Louisiana specialties, I pulled a recipe from my vault, that I have adored forever.

As you know, New York has it's subs, Chicago has it's Italian Beef, Philly it's Cheesesteak... and Louisiana, it's PoBoys. One of my favorites, is a traditional New Orleans Roast Beef PoBoy. It is melt-in-your-mouth slow cooked beef, piled onto fresh french bread, and topped with thinly shredded cabbage and sour pickles... covered in gravy and beef debris. I just can't keep this to myself any longer. From the NOLA archives. Enjoy.



Roast Beef Po’ Boy with Debris Gravy Recipe





For the Roast:
1 Beef Chuck Roast (this one was 2 ½ pounds)
2 Garlic Cloves thinly sliced
Kosher Salt & Black Pepper
Cayenne
3 Tbsp Lard or Vegetable Oil
1 Small Onion, Diced
1 Small Carrot, Diced
1 Cup Beef Stock
1 Cup Chicken Stock
Water if necessary
2 Tbsp Worcestershire Sauce
1 Tbsp Hot Sauce
2 Sprigs Fresh Thyme
1 Fresh Bay Leaf
Kosher Salt and Black Pepper to taste

Cut small slits into the roast, about every 3 inches, try not to pierce all the way to the bottom. Stuff the sliced garlic into the slits.
Season the Roast very liberally on all sides with the Salt & Black Pepper, season with Cayenne to your taste, I don’t use much.
Heat the fat in a heavy bottomed Dutch Oven over high heat, when the oil starts to smoke, wait a few more seconds, then carefully add the Roast cut side down. Brown very well on all sides, without burning it. Remove to a plate.
Drain off all but 1 Tbsp of the fat in the pan, add the onions and carrots, cook until the onions just start to brown, place the roast back in the pan, then add the stocks. Finish, if necessary, with enough water to bring the cooking liquid 3/4 of the way up the roast. Add the remaining ingredients. Bring to a boil, then back down to a simmer. Simmer covered for 3-4 hours or until the meat falls apart by staring at it.

For the Debris Gravy:
Carve the meat into very thin slices, it will be hard to do and will fall apart, that is good. All of the bits and pieces, that fall off are your Debris (pronounced DAY-bree.) Add all of the bits and chunks to you cooking liquid after skimming off the fat from the surface, keep the carved meat with a little liquid on a warm plate, covered tightly with plastic wrap. Bring the gravy to a full boil and reduce until it coats the back of a spoon. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

For the Po’ Boy:
New Orleans Style French Bread (Po’ Boys are generally about 9-10 inches long per sandwich. As you can see I made mine a bit smaller, shame on me.) Cut the bread 3/4 of the way through leaving a hinge (as seen in the background of the pic.) I find the hinge makes for slightly, easier eating.
Shredded Lettuce (or Cabbage a la Mothers)
Mayonnaise
Roast Beef (see above)
Debris Gravy

Slather the bread with a very generous portion of Mayonnaise on the inside of the upper and lower halves. Place about a cup of Shredded Lettuce on the bottom half. Cover the lettuce with a generous portion of the “sliced” Beef. Drown the beef with Debris Gravy.

Grab a stack of napkins, a cold beer and enjoy (and call Andre, as you need help eating all of this).

Quality Meats: The Miracle On 58th

The New Kid In Midtown Gets It Right... In A Big Way.



When it’s great, it’s great.

Quality Meats is not just great… it’s out of this world.

One of my pet peeves in this life is going to restaurants that get to the 1 yard line and don’t get into the end zone… you know, the details. One thing is great, another sub-par, another not so good. I think to myself “if they would just do a few things different.. what an experience this would be.”

Well, before Quality Meats opened it’s doors, someone sat down and figured it out. And they got it right.

Let’s start at the door.

Upon entering this funky, industrial space… you notice the uber-cool light bulbs hanging from the exposed ceiling. The darkish lounge area is highlighted by a small bar and a few seating areas. Cozy.


At first glance, most places this stylish are telling you that your food is going to be average. But as I turned my head I noticed something that would end that theory in its tracks. A prosciutto bar.

Oh yea. I’m not kidding. A 6-seat thing of beauty, with a guy slicing fresh ham, salame, coppa, bresaola and spicy sopressata. If the meats don’t quite do it for you, there are fresh cheeses, including a Manchego, a Humboldt Fog and a Cabrales. Homemade potato chips and cheese condiments complete the bar, as if it needed additional greatness.

I knew then we’d likely have a killer meal.

After a frosty Ketel One Martini, we were met in the lounge and escorted to our table.. and I must admit, I was shocked at the size of the space. What looked to be a one room, typically smallish steak house opened into a 2-story masterpiece… with a wine bottle-encased stairway in the middle of the space. This climb led to an upstairs dining room, well appointed and full of hungry meat eaters.

Our table was set perfectly, with a crisp, white lined tablecloth sporting the embroidered initials “QM”. Detail is everything.

We were quickly greeted by our server, and presented with wine and meal options. This was going to get tough, as the wine list and menu are jammed full of winners.

The dinner menu includes a small selection of regional oysters on the half shell, but I opted for the Lobster Cocktail… a half chicken lobster, cracked and served with several unique sauces. Truth be told, the lobster was so delicious, I skipped the sauces altogether.

Additional starters and appetizers include shellfish bouquets, steak tartare, crabcakes, amazing salads, corn chowder, scallops and soft shell crabs… but the standout was not to be topped.

Roasted bone marrow.

Now, if you haven’t indulged in this gem, let me convince you to do so. It is a taste and experience not to be missed… and Quality Meats does a great job. On the platter with the two roasted meat bones, are a gathering of crispy toast points and a small dish of pork tasso and herbs. Now I know why my dog Coltrane freaks out when I walk through the door with one of these from the butcher. If he could talk, he’s have me pop these bones in the oven and slice up some bread. This is good stuff.


About this time, a gentleman with a small, wheeled cart rolled along side the table, and began to make a tableside steak sauce. Yes, you read it correctly. Homemade, tableside steak sauce. Into the motar and pestle went a bevy of ingredients, including freshly sniped rosemary and thyme, garlic, tomato and orange puree, a raisin paste along with a few other items. Before we knew it, we were slathering the stuff on just about anything we could put our hands on. Detail is everything.

Shortly after the steaks arrived, and didn’t disappoint. I had a butterflied Filet Minon, cooked perfectly. This steak was tender and full of flavor… and I soon learned that I wouldn’t need a knife to cut it.

Alongside, we opted for 2 of 9 mouthwatering side dishes…. the Corn Crème Brulee, and Gnocchi and Cheese. Both were terrific and different, and not just for the sake of being so. Next time, we’ll choose from Buttered Edamame with Mint Salt, 3 different varities of potatoes, and market fresh onions, spinach, zucchini and asparagus.

Have I mentioned to you that I love this place?

For you fish mongers, Quality Meats carries a nice selection of fresh fish, including Tuna, Sole, Halibut and Salmon. We didn’t indulge, but I would guess that I would have been happy with just about any of these as well.

Not having room for dessert, I ordered anyway… a rhubarb crumble “pie of my own” with homemade vanilla ice cream. It was spectacular (all 4 bites), and next time I’ll make a greater effort to save room for this course, as the dessert menu looked to be carefully crafted. The pie list included a Key Lime, Banana Cream and Pecan Bourbon Chocolate Chunk… along with four delectable tarts. The special was a cantaloupe sherbert… highlighting a list of mouthwatering ice creams including Blueberry Pie and Coffee and Donuts. These are also sold by the quart.

As the night drew to a close, the leftovers were wrapped to take home. At Quality Meats, the take home goodies are not carted back to the table to sit on the floor, but rather delivered to the coat check room to be picked up as we exited for the evening. Detail is everything.

There may be flaws at this midtown newcomer, but if there are I couldn’t find them on my first visit. This experience is what dining out is meant to be… putting your faith and dollars in someone else’s hands and letting them do their thing. Deliver a perfect experience. It’s not cheap, but few things in this city worth raving about are. The only thing I’ll do for sure next time is call well in advance for reservations.

Quality Meats

57 W 58th St
New York 10019
Btwn 5th & 6th Ave

Cité : New York’s Best Deal?

This Is A Deal You Simply Won’t Believe…




New Yorkers love deals.

It’s true. Sure, they won’t overpay for a cup of coffee downstairs in the deli, but they will ride the subway into the next borough to save $1.00 on a chicken taco. You gotta love that. Moxie.

I too love to seek dining deals… and every once in a while, I hit the jackpot. Earlier this year I discovered a deal that I thought was too good to be true… and over the weekend I visited again to reaffirm my initial belief. This you won’t believe.

I was wrong. It’s true. It’s really true.

New York City’s best dining value lies on 51st between 6th and 7th at the restaurant “Cité”.


Now you can find Prix Fixe dinners all over town, and then some. They are all just about the same, give or take a terrine of foie gras, or a roasted beet salad. But name me one restaurant that includes your wine. Uh, all you can drink.

Let me repeat that. All you can drink.

Welcome to the wine dinner at Cité.

This gem of an offer used to be an “after 8pm bonus” the restaurant used to lure late diners, and get the word out about the joint. But after tremendous success and rampant word-of-mouth advertising, Cité has made this a nightly affair…. anytime you wish…. all summer long.

What makes this such a great deal is that you don’t order off of a “wine dinner” menu…. you order from the real thing… the same menu everyone is gazing at. You get to choose and appetizer, and entrée and a dessert.

At my table Saturday evening (reserve early and plan to stay late) one diner started with Pan Fried Crab Cakes… followed by Seared Tuna… and wrapped it up with Red Velvet Cake. Another guest started with Grilled Calamari, followed by a dry-aged Ribeye… and a Truffle Brownie Sundae.

Me?..... Homemade Potato Gnocchi in a citrus cream, the petite Ribeye Frités… and the Rice Pudding Crème Brulée. Uh, the petite Ribeye is 14 ounces… plenty of food for even a big appetite.


Of course, the menu also includes rack of lamb, beef short ribs, a Neiman Ranch pork chop, wild salmon, several choice pastas and fresh fish and scallop options. Worry not, you’re going to find something that strikes a chord.

But enough about the food. Let’s talk about the wine.

You get at minimum 4 wines during the evening. The night always starts with a very nice bottle (or bottles) of champagne.. and we enjoyed the Mumm Cordon Rouge Brut NV. The bubbly is usually followed by a nice white (with your appetizer). Our white was a nice pinot grigio, the Sartori Pinot Grigio 2004…and was light and delicious. This was followed by 2 reds… first, a vintage (Nickel & Nickel Rock Cairn 2000) that was complex and well structured. But before getting through half of this glass, the champion of the evening… a huge, brassy red (Chateauneuf du Pape Vieux Lazaret 2003) hit the table and quickly stole the show. This was not a cheap wine, and before we knew it, we had polished of a few bottles.

The beauty of the wine dinner, is that you can have as much of or as little of each wine offered. If you want champagne all evening, you get champagne all evening. If you want to speed up to the reds, no problem. And again, these are bottomless glasses. You simply drink all you can handle.

You would think that this deal would include sub-par wines… but on both of my visits, I found the wines to be excellent… along the lines of a bottle I would purchase for a special dinner in my own home, or to present as a thoughtful gift. They were well-balanced and well-selected. There is thought here, and it shows through the nightly selections as well as the well crafted menu.

The price? Hold on to your hat. $69.00 a person.

Yes, $69.00.

So, let’s do some math. Crab Cakes… $14.00…. Filet Minon… $41.00…. Crème Brulée… $9.00….. add tax, blah, blah, blah,…. I get $75 bucks. This means…. you make a reservation at Cité….you order a great dinner…. and drink all the wine you can, for free. Free.


Cité is not Balthazar, nor Cirque. But it is a charming, fun and substantial experience, with the best wine deal in town. Make a reservation, and bring friends. And cab fare… it’s going to be a long night.




Cité


120 W 51st St, New York 10020
Btwn 6th & 7th Ave

AmEx, MC, Visa, Disc, DC, JCB

HOURS

Lunch
Weekdays: 12pm-3pm
Dinner
Daily: 5pm-11:30pm
Cite Grill Lunch
Daily: 11:30am-5pm
Cite Grill Dinner
Mon-Sat: 5pm-11:30pm

One Nice Slice

NY's Best Pizza Slice Is Giving The Others The Boot!



I love NY pizza.

I love the gourmet stuff, the simple stuff, the cheesy stuff, the greasy stuff… you name it. And believe you me, NYC is not resting on its pizza laurels. Over the past few years, the NYC slice has undergone a transformation, and it’s getting fun watching the creativity spill into the streets of Manhattan.

The first new trend in pizza??... local restaurants are now taking the stuff seriously. It wasn’t long ago when pizza was considered fluff on a menu at a nice Italian restaurant. Today, wood burning ovens are turning out thin, crispy roman style pies topped with everything from pork cheeks to arugula. Thank our friend Mario Batali for this…. some of the best restaurant pies in the city can be found at his hot spot, Otto.

The next trend is that of the regular slice. Sure, you can still find the slice, but next to it you’ll find a pizza topped with chicken and broccoli, eggplant, veal parm… and get this… pasta. Yes, a pizza topped with penne.

Also finding a home across the city is the square, thick and sweet “Mama’s Slice”… a San Marzano style square of pan style pizza, topped with delectable tomatoes and fresh cheese. This is really growing on me.

But through it all, I have found (as of today) what I think is simply the best slice of pizza in New York… and believe it or not, it’s not a traditional slice.


The boys at “Two Boots” Pizza in New York have done the impossible (Two Boots as in Italy and Louisiana being shaped like a boot). They have won the hearts and stomachs of New Yorkers with a special slice of pizza coming from a menu of unique toppings… and a super crunchy corn meal crust. If they only had a store on the Upper West Side.

“Two Boots” has a full menu of named pies, to help you find their best sellers. The Larry Tate (spinach, tomatoes, garlic and ricotta), The Devine (Tasso, Onions and Jalapeños), The Big Maybelle (Chicken, Pepperoni, Garlic on a white pie)… well you get the picture. But for my money, the best pizza in NYC at the moment, is The Newman.

The Newman… sopressata, sweet Italian sausage, ricotta and mozzarella. Killer. The slices are humongous, but the whole pie is the way to go. Simply put, you’ll want more.

What makes the pizza great is the finely ground Italian sausage… and fresh ricotta. When you ground sausage fine, you get to taste the real ingredients… the spices and pork. The crust on these pizzas are so well made and firm, that you can often hold the slice by the crust without it faltering an inch. Love that.

For those who like spicy, there is an interesting Bayou Beast pie that includes shrimp, crawfish and tasso. I love the idea of this, and like this pie… although I have found the shrimp to be less than fresh on occasion. That said, if the ingredients are fresh, this is also a good option (have water nearby).

Alas, you can build your own at “Two Boots”… and get your dream pie. They have killer ingredients, and midtown delivery is prompt.

So there you have it. Sure, I may change my mind (and believe me, I am a Bleeker Street Pizza loyalist)…. But today, my favorite slice is that unconventional “Newman” slice by our friends at Two Boots. Drop by and taste for yourself.

For more, go to www.twoboots.com and find a store in Manhattan.... and think of me when you crunch on that first bite!

In Case You Missed It

Things Every NYC Foodie Should Know... and Then Some


this is an ongoing segment that will appear
at random during the run of this blog... enjoy!



Fancy Schmancy
Lincoln Plaza Theatres not only serves popcorn, but sells fresh salmon, gourmet sandwiches and Lindt Chocolate. So long Milk Duds. (Broadway btw 62 and 63)

Certain Hangover
Gabriella's, the mexican joint brought to you by the company that owns Artie's and Carmines, sells their shots of Patron Silver in hi-ball glasses with 3 limes... it's not one, but three shots.... uh, you're calling in sick tomorrow. (Columbus at 93rd)

Show Me The Money
Yes, The Rink Bar at Rockefeller Plaza is expensive, but you can avoid the ATM machine if you hit their happy hour on Fridays, when selected cocktails including their Margaritas are $6. (50th btw 5th and 6th)

Simplicity Strikes
Fairway Cafe, the delightful dining spot above the famed grocery store, will change its menu after July 5th, moving to a Prix Fixe deal somewhere in the neighborhood of $37 smackers. Of course, they'll continue serving their delicious steaks... which many consider to be the best on the Upper West Side. Their French Fries are legendary. (Broadway at 73)

How Cool Are You?
Vietnamese sandwiches may be the next "piadina" type craze to whoo New Yorkers.... but you can get ahead of the crowd by dropping $4 bones at Nicky's Vietnamese Sandwiches on your own "bahn mi". Yes, they are really that good. (E. 2 btw A and B)

Please Don't Tell
At $9.95, the Steak Tips bar appetizer may still be the best deal in NYC at the overpriced Del Friscos Steakhouse. Even though the drinks are pricy, the view of the room from the bar is delightful and the tender Filet Mignon and perfect mashed potatoes make you feel as if you are stealing a meal from "the man". (6th Ave at49)

Make A Run For The Border
Calle Ocho, the post-trendy UWS hang and dine, is serving 5 different summer sangrias... but possibly the city's best baha tacos served pu-pu platter style in the bar. The small, homemade corn tortillas are the bomb. (Columbus and 81)

Finally, Someone Is Thinking
If you can't get enough Kraft Mac n' Cheese out of the blue box, your cheesey dreams have come true. S'Mac has opened in the Lower East Side, with a menu of nothing but decadent versions of yes, Mac n' Cheese. By the way, if you don't like their Cheeseburger, brie, manchego, goat or cajun varieties, you can build-your-own..... (E. 12th near 1st)

Deals For the Taking
The new food site www.diningfever.com highlights restaurant deals across the city... so you can save the $21 bucks you are gonna need for that movie you need to flip for, too.

and Andre's Fast Bites......

Open since 1952, Poseidon Bakery (9th btw 44/45) crafts their authentic baklava and spinach pies with filo dough they make by hand.... Cosi, the NYC fast food outlet may have one of the better bowls of gumbo you can eat in Manhattan, and thats coming from a Louisiana kid.... Yonah Schimmel Knish Bakery (Houston btw 1/2) has not 5 or 10, but over 20 varieties of Knish to try... of which you can wash down witha real egg cream or lime rickey..... Beard Papa has moved their cream puff business to the Upper West Side and is selling their crack-like goodies on Broadway..... Starbucks nows sells their iced coffee blends to go, so you can brew, ice and consume at home... speaking of coffee, McDonald's new premium coffees are a huge improvement over the hot, black sink water they were use to slinging....