Tuesday, August 29, 2006

FAST FOOD HEAVEN? Chipotlé Is The Place

Why Did It Take So Long To Figure It Out?



It’s true. Fast food has become a dirty word.

But when you think of fast food, don’t you think greasy burgers? Fries? Fried Chicken?

Well, there is a trend sweeping the country, and that’s fresher fast food. Yes, it still may be served on a paper plate or in a wax wrapper… but that doesn’t mean that it can’t taste good, and be good for you. Or at least… better for you.


This is where the new fresh-mex concept CHIPOTLE comes in. Like the earlier Baja Fresh, these guys hit the market with fresher that fresh ingredients, no freezers and no microwaves. This means your food was made fresh, likely a few minutes ago, and may actually taste that way.

Before I dive in, let me fill you in on a few things….

McDonald's owns 90% of Chipotle Mexican Grill.
Competitor Baja Fresh is owned by a subsidiary of Wendy's.
Competitor Qdoba was acquired by Jack in the Box in 2003.

This is a big deal in the food world. There is a lot of money to be made here.


The menu concept at Chipotle is genius. You have very little to choose from… a burrito, a fajita burrito, a burrito Bowl (or as they call it, Bol), soft or hard tacos… and a salad.

Once you figure out what it is you’ll have, you pick the meats. Marinated, grilled chicken, hand chopped steak, braised carnitas, spicy barbacoa (shredded beef… and my favorite) or vegetarian (surprisingly good).

The meats are not your run-of-the-mill fast food quality fare. This is marinated, grilled and stewed stuff. You'll be shocked.

From there, you tell your new friends behind the counter what condiments you’d like (fresh sliced romaine lettuce, pinto or delicious black beans, etc) and choose a homemade salsa.

The salsa is downright great. As I love the medium hot Tomatillo-Green Chili, the Roasted Chili Corn, Tomatillo-Red Chili and Fresh Tomato are all wunderbar.

To top things off, Chipotle makes their guacamole fresh by hand several times a day, along with great tortilla chips. A case of ice cold Mexican beers are available to wash it all down.


So why the big deal? Maybe because this place… a fast food place… nails all of the details. Why don’t other new stores (or older classics) get it? This average meal here will run you about $6.95, and in NYC, that is one helluva deal.

And if you can do the math, you can get your mind around this… you can get about 50,000 combinations with these 5 items. Uh, add sour cream please.

So, how popular is the place? There is a website dedicated to their fans… where you can chat, get coupons, find out about new locations and own the nutritional info (http://www.chipotlefan.com) . These guys are serious.

Otherwise, visit the real home at www.chipotle.com

Chipotle has smothered midtown Manhattan with a number of outlets… and more seem to keep coming. Do yourself a favor and hit one next time your hungry for something without the grease.

Oh yea, don’t forget the cold Modelo.


If you need the Guac now, here is the recipe!

Chipotle's Guacamole Recipe

Ingredients:
1 large ripe Hass avocado, peeled,pitted
2 teaspoons fresh lime juice
2 Tbsp chopped fresh cilantro
1/4 cup finely chopped red onions
2 cloves garlic, finely minced
1 serrano chili, seeded,chopped
1/4 teaspoon salt

Directions:
1. Mash up avocado with a fork.
2. Add lime juice.
3. Add all other ingredients and blend well.
4. Serve with tortilla chips.

Monday, August 21, 2006

Saigon Grill: Value and Taste = Winner

Expanding Across NYC, Saigon Continues To Get It Right



With football season almost here, I broke down and made a pot of chicken and okra gumbo over the weekend. I know, it’s still 80 degrees outside my door on Central Park, but I can’t help myself. Somehow I think that eating a bowl of gumbo will make fall arrive just a bit quicker. It’s football season. I can’t help myself.

So I broke out the large gumbo pot, stewed the okra and made a roux.

The weather stayed the same Sunday, but man that gumbo sure was good.

Earlier in the weekend, I finally made a visit to a place I’ve been order delivery from for months… and as impressed as I have been by the quality of the delivery, I was even more impressed by the massive operation Saigon Grill manages at their restaurant on a daily basis.

One reason I have avoided the spot, is the constant crowd that gathers. But hey, a neighborhood place that is packed usually tells you a few things… 1. the food is good, and 2. the food is cheap.

Saigon Grill is both good and cheap. There is a great deal of value here, and you don’t sacrifice taste with a low check…. if you haven’t been, you need to make the effort.

As I have loved Chinese food forever, it took me a while to discover and explore Vietnamese cooking. The flavors are more vibrant and fragrant, the recipes more complex and ingredients more varied. While Chinese can become bland and blah, Vietnamese food often embraces basil and curry… as well as lemon grass and noodles.

I gotta tell ya, I like it. A lot.

Saigon Grill in NYC is a slightly Americanized version of the hard core Vietnamese spots you’ll find below Houston Street, but delivers none the less.

Let’s start with apps.

As tasty as these are at Saigon Grill, I tend to order only one, as the dinners are large. Similar with many Thai spots, you’ll find different versions of soft summer rolls filled with shrimp, bean sprouts, herbs and vermicelli…and fried versions as well. But their best apps may just be the sugarcane shrimp, fried and wrapped around a slice of actual sugar cane or the Deep Fried Crabmeat on Claw. OK, so I like fried seafood.

The soup at Saigon is not to be missed…. as you guessed it, Pho Bo is the bomb. This dish was my first taste of Vietnamese cuisine, and in my opinion encompasses the very essence of the delicacies involved. Po Bo is an Ox Tail broth, filled with rice noodles and bean sprouts. Floating on top are paper thin slices of beef, to be added to the hot broth and swished shabu style until cooked (this takes about 30 seconds). To the table comes a plate of fresh basil, onion and hosing sauce…. Most of which make their way into the bowl. By this time, 4 or your 5 senses are on overload. Oh yea, a bowl of the stuff will set you back $2.95.

From here it gets complicated at Saigon Grill, because they serve so many damn dishes, you can’t choose.

You can go the safe route, and order a chicken dish like Basil Chicken, or Ga Xao Dau Que…. Sautéed chicken and string beans in garito sauce. There are chicken, pork and beef curry dishes with eggplant, onion, string beans and peppers served with pancakes…. Crispy whole fish served with sweet and sour sauce and a Seafood Bouillabaisse that would knock your socks off.

There are noodle dishes like the traditional Bun Xao, sticky rice noodles with shredded veggies, eggs and peanuts… Bun noodles, a rice vermicelli with cucumbers, herbs and the like… and Banh Hoi, a steamed angel hair dish with rice crepes and baby shrimp.

Getting hungry?

The friend rice dishes are fantastic as well. And is you feel the need to get really fresh, there is a full sushi menu with every roll under the sun, as well as decent grade sashimi.

Smart touches to the impressive menu include Ginger Ice Tea and Sticky rice and bean pudding for desert…. But by the time desert rolls around, I am usually in too much pain to consider giving it a whirl.

The success if Saigon Grill is no secret to most New Yorkers, as the fledgling chain now sports four locations in the city.

You’ve got my word, you’ll find solid stuff here… and more flavor than you’ll know what to do with. Choose wisely.

Saigon Grill

620 Amsterdam Ave- At 90th St
New York, NY 10024

212 875-9072
212 875-9073

(and several locations around the city)

Tuesday, August 15, 2006

In Case You Missed It...

Here's the skinny of what's happening in my favorite kitchens!




You may want to venture out into the concrete jungle one of these days… and when you do, you should check out this stuff happening right under your nose, slacker.


Bubble, Bubble…
You’ve heard about it. You’ve read about it. Now you need to drink it. That’s right, Bubble Tea, the asian inspired “drink du jour” is now flowing literally all over the city… although I still believe the best versions can be found in Chinatown.
Quickly (pictured) can get you started… but in my opinion, the best in the city is that of the frozen variety around the corner on Mott at Ten Ren. Caution: HIGHLY ADDICTIVE STUFF

Jiffy Pop It Ain’t
Yes, I am a popcorn freak. Do I own my own commercial popcorn machine? Yes. Do I use theatre grade coconut popping oil? Yes. Will I die of coronary disease at age 54? Likely. But I truly love the stuff, and consider it a major food group. But where can I eat good popcorn when I’m not at home? Well, in NYC options are limited, but Dale and Thomas is the right place to start. With gourmet options like Chocolate Chunk n’ Carmel, Ragin’ Cajun, Sweet Georgia Pecan, Sweet and Spicy BBQ, Buffalo and Blue Cheese and six or seven others, you should be able to find that satisfying crunchy snack brought to us by our friends, the American Indians. Oh yea, their plain old popped and Kettle Corn ain’t bad, either. Locations across Manhattan and at DaleandThomas.com

Power Brunching on the UWS
It can be said that the Upper West Side may have more brunch spots than any neighborhood in the city. Sure, the Village has it’s hangouts and the Lower East it’s funky dives… but for some reason, the sidewalk café scene on the UWS has evolved into a genre all it’s own. For my money, GOOD ENOUGH TO EAT may be one of the neighborhood’s best. Why? Well, homemade corned beef hash for one… with huge chunks of deli grade corned beef, fresh cut potatoes and onions. I had my plate with scrambled eggs and a side of grits and scratch biscuits. I could have opted for the Peach French Toast… but why have the girly meal when I could consume an additional 1000 calories?

Can It Be?
Can is be that the city’s best Chinese restaurant is a Bayard Street dive? Word on the street is that NEW GREEN BO may be not only the best kept secret, but simply the best Chinese restaurant in NYC…. and after a visit, I may believe the hype. You can get it all here… tiny steamed pork buns, shu-mei, cold and hot noodles, boneless pig leg, crispy eel, winter melon soup, and nearly 100 variations of your favorite lobster, shrimp, pork, chicken, beef and vegetable dishes. It’s all dirt cheap and piled high. An important observation: they’ve got your sesame chicken, but if I were you, I wouldn’t make the trip and miss the beef stew over rice. 66 Bayard Street btw Mott and Elizabeth in Chinatown

Smoke Em While You Can
It wasn’t long ago I told a friend of mine that it would be a cold day in hell before NYC outlawed smoking in bars in this city. I bet him $20 bucks. Well, needless to say that money is long gone, and I am without a place to sip a martini and enjoy a fine crafted cigar….. almost.
In the rebellious style of the prohibition days of the past, FLORIO’S, a wonderful old school Italian joint in Little Italy has been able to “skirt” the issue, and allows patrons to light ém up at the bar, in the front of the restaurant. Larry, the kind and hospitable owner can show you his vast selection of top shelf stogies, but do yourself a favor and request one of his own hand-rolled, spicy cigars he has made especially for his customers. Equally as tasty is Larry’s food, which features thin crust Roman style pizzas and wonderfully rich pastas, including my favorite there, the rigatoni con vodka, in a perfect pink sauce. Long live Florio’s.

When you need to be cool…
You roll out of bed, unshaven and slightly hungover. As you glance down you notice the alarm clock… 11:40am. Unable to actually speak a coherent phrase, you slide into your jeans and sandals, and make your way to the subway platform… headed to Brookyln’s DUMBO.
By noon, you’ve arrived at RICE, the uber cool rice house featuring ten types of the holy grain, from jasmine to Bhutanese red. You choose your rice, select a topping (the Thai Coconut Curry will do the trick) with a side of Aleppo yogurt. Washed down with a glass of fresh watermelon juice, you may be the hippest person in the five boroughs.

Wednesday, August 09, 2006

Batali's Babbo.... Bravissimo!

Once again, some of the city's best food is coming from Mario.



I’ll be the first to admit that I spend a good deal of time blowing smoke up Mario Batali’s rear end.

But, the truth is his restaurants are just down right terrific.

It’s one thing to promise and not deliver… but when you can have top notch meals at any of his restaurants on any given night without disappointment… well, you have something you need to share.



Mario’s Babbo is one strange bird. It is a cozy, charming 2-story space located steps from Washington Square, in a old brownstone conversion. But what you won’t find here is complete refinement. Yes, the appointments are stylized and classic, the wine list is smallish and wonderful and the staff expressive without being pushy. That said, don’t be surprised if you hear a musical selection by Pink Floyd or Def Leopard playing over the house sound system.

It’s that type of bizarre edge that has made Babbo such an interesting place over the years… a hint of unexpectedness that this space loves to embrace. And from the moment you hit the door, there is a scripted experience that awaits every customer. It has been carefully planned, and is honestly the reason this store has developed the following it has. This is a space with a story.

My experience last week started on a Friday evening at 5pm, without a reservation…. that is, I had no reservations.


We cued in line about 4:45, which I now know is almost too late. The doors to the wine bar open at 5pm, and it’s then the first six parties of 2-4 people can stake their claim on a table in the bar with the maitre’d… sans reservation. By a stoke of luck, we were party #6.

After putting our names on the list and being assured of a table in the bar area (hey it’s Babbo, you take what you can get) we sat at the handsome bar, and nibbled on tiny Spanish olives and crunchy, addictive asaigo breadsticks. The wine list is full of rich, decadent wines and I ordered a glass to ease the 20 minute wait to be sat.

Once we were seated, we watched as no less that 30 couples were turned away to dine elsewhere. Only a five minute walk, my guess is that many of them wound up at Otto, in the much larger bar. Note to self: call ahead for a good table. Like a month ahead.

Being fans of Mario’s pasta, it didn’t take long to settle on the Pasta Tasting Menu, an option that all parties must agree on. Although the menu had countless mouthwatering options, tasting menus are usually very well thought out. This was an opportunity I just couldn’t pass up.

So, after a delicious complimentary appetizer from the kitchen (I won’t ruin the surprise) the pasta began hitting the table.

This is what we experienced.




Black Tagliatelle with Roasted Corn

So much for getting off to a quiet start. This dish was spectacular in every aspect of the word. The flavors were perfectly balanced and appropriate for a light summer dish. They start here for a reason… this dish raises the bar. High.


Baccala “Mezzalune” with Black Olive Butter
Not as earth-shattering as the first, but a solid, well made dish. The baccala is a salt cod combined with potatoes, inside a ravioli. The butter and olives were the right combination to balance the sea-taste of the pasta. This was a decent portion, and left us wondering how much food we had signed up for.

Garganelli with “Funghi Trifolati”
Believe it or not, this was my first taste of garganelli pasta, and wow, I’m a fan. If you don’t know this pasta, it’s a thin, hand-rolled tube that is marked with thin slits to carry the sauce. The mushroom sauce was heavenly and this proved to be one of the best bites of the evening. At this point, we are getting full.

Fernando’s Pyramids with “Passato di Pomodoro”

Heavenly. Imagine pockets of fresh pasta, wrapped around fresh tomatoes,covered with shaved parm reggiano. I am stuffed.

Pappardelle Bolognese

By this point, Mario brings out pure simplicity. The ribbons of homemade pasta are lightly coasted with a slow cooked Bolognese of beef and veal. It is a delightful reminder of the culinary trip you just encountered… and serves as a welcome home. Never mind the fact that you are so full you can’t see straight.

As you would expect, there is not one, or two… but three courses of dessert. To get into this stage, we slowed waaaaaay down, had a cup of coffee and unbuttoned. 20 minutes later, we indulged in several delightful courses, including warm chocolate truffles as well as Olive Oil Gelato.

Cost wise, the Pasta Tasting Menu priced at $64. is a steal. Other spots can charge you up to or over $100 smackers for this kind of variety, but Babbo delivers for nearly half the price. If you feel like spending more, Babbo offers a wine compliment to this meal, with a new wine with each course. At an additional $50 it is a bargin, but be warned, you’re gonna be walking funny.

With Del Posto left to review, I salute the Batali empire and look forward to the next incarnation. If you haven’t visited in a while, I suggest you do so… you’ll remember your first time… and wonder why you have been away so long.

Friday, August 04, 2006

Mario's Magic in Greenwich Village

Simple and Extrodinary, Lupa Continues To Dazzle


Today my wife and I will celebrate our 16th wedding anniversary, and will undoubtedly wind up in a Mario Batali space… although I must admit, I haven’t decided which one. Being that we’ll be eating very, very early, reservations aren’t a grave concern… selecting a spot may be a tougher task. That said, it’s time we discussed what is likely my favorite Batali haunt.

For years, I sat on my couch and watched Mario Batali cook up his Italian wonders on the Food network, while wearing his “Lupa” chef coat.

Hmmm. Lupa. “Must be good,” I thought.

I had no idea.


Years later, there I was, sitting in the smallish, crowded, noisy dining room having one of those “oh my god” meals. You know the one…. each course better than the last… without getting too full to continue.

Lupa is a space and menu with direction and attitude. She knows who she is and what she is… and how she got there. She is confident but not cocky, while remaining playful and pristine. She is built upon a world of flavor… presenting dishes that know how to deliver that ever important massage.

That message of… “we get it.”

My first experience at Lupa was on a brisk October evening in Greenwich Village. I had no reservation, but would not be denied. As the doors opened at 5pm, I dashed in and promptly sat at the bar, happy as a clam. I wouldn’t think of wasting table space being this happy to have a seat at the bar.

Those who read this blog understand I almost never hesitate eating at the bar. And of course at Lupa’s bar, you get 5-star service and can eat from the same menu as those who called a month ago for a reservation. Joy.

So with a suggestion and a taste or two of the day’s wine selections, I began to sip and nibble my way through a grouping of dishes that were just irresistible. Warm olives, beets with pistachio, white beans. I had an assortment of thin sliced homemade Salumi and Coppa, and a parsley and pancetta salad that may be the most spectacular thing I have ever put in my mouth. Really.


For my primi, I selected the Bavette Cacio & Pepe… or pasta with cheese and pepper. It was stupendous in its simplicity, and I finished every bite. For those who love al dente pasta, Lupa is your mecca… if anything some complain about the pasta being under-cooked. It did take me by surprise, but I found the pasta to be firm to the bite and just perfect.

Not having any room for a second course, I ordered anyway.

The menu features a wonderful array of choices… lamb, duck, fish, pork…. you name it. I settled on a Pork Saltimbocca that I just couldn’t resist. Pork, prosciutto, sage. Good lord.

Glancing at my watch, I realize I have been going at this for a good 2 hours. Maybe that’s why I haven’t burst yet… I was taking my time. And you know what that means.

…dessert.

Delicate may be the word here… gelatos, panna cotta, mascarpone. Fragrant hard cheeses served with condiments including honey. Help me.

Well, by now you are likely getting the picture that Lupa pushes all of my buttons. Since that chilly fall night, I have returned several times, never to be disappointed. Although they have replaced my favorite salad with other dishes (but the do promise it to return) I find each selection special unto itself.

Lupa is simply one of those “chef owned” joints that just plain lives up to the hype. Without question, it is one of the top 5 Italian restaurants in this city, meaning… one of the finest in the country. Yes, Babbo is tremendous, Del Posto uber-pricy and Otto loud but delicious. But Lupa, in her own way, remains on top of the Batali empire as just plain spectacular.

Tuesday, August 01, 2006

Fire Up The Stove, We’re Cooking Creole In NYC

Fill Your Printer With Paper, These Are Recipes You're Gonna Print!





With thousands of restaurants in NYC, you could certainly make a case for eating out just about every night.

Of course, this line of thinking can also make a substantial dent in your wallet, so shopping and eating at home can be a good thing, too. And as you well know, we would do more of this if in fact we could get over the biggest hurdle... what are we having?

Well, creole and cajun cooking is custom fit for this delimma, as whatever you cook, you'll likely be eating it for a few days.

That's because Louisiana folks cook with two things in mind. First, they don't know who the hell is showing up for dinner, so you think of how many you may be serving, and then double it. Second, they know that today's good gumbo, will be tomorrow AMAZING gumbo, so they make enough to enjoy on day 2.. and 3... etc.

So, this week, we head into the kitchen, with a list of recipes I have gathered from previous posts on this blog... and a few new ones. They are really easy, and very authentic.... so make your grocery list, do a little shopping, and go for it!

Here are a few of my favorites.

Yes, It's a bit hot for this one, but what the hell... what's life without a bowl of gumbo?



Andre’s Gumbo Like I Like It

(Shrimp and Okra Version)

4- 5 Quarts Chicken Stock
4 pounds frozen okra
1 lrg can of diced tomatoes
1 regular can of diced tomatoes
2 large white onions, diced fine
3 tablespoons vegetable oil
1⁄2 teaspoon chopped garlic, fine
1⁄2 teaspoon salt
1⁄2 teaspoon black pepper
3⁄4 cup all purpose flour
3⁄4 cup vegetable oil
3 tablespoon of lea and perrin’s
2 tablespoons crystal hot sauce (or frank’s)
1 1⁄2 tablespoons of creole seasoning (Emerils or Tony’s)
2 bay leaves
1 teaspoon basil
1 teaspoon oregano
1⁄2 teaspoon thyme
2-3 tablespoons Kitchen Bouquet
Salt and pepper to taste
1 cup chopped parsley, fine
4 pounds peeled medium shrimp
Chopped green onions


In a separate pot, heat 3 tbl vegetable oil, and sauté white onions. Add garlic, frozen okra and tomatoes, season with salt and pepper, and cook over medium low heat until tender (at least an hour, if not longer). Okra should be very tender and want to break up. In a large stockpot, heat oil (3/4 cup) and add flour to make roux. Stir constantly over medium heat, making sure not to burn. Bring to desired color… peanut butter color is recommended for best flavor. Once desired color is reached, whisk in chicken stock, 4 qts first and save the rest if needed (chicken base dissolved in water can also be used , but NOT bullion). Add seasonings (wet and dry) and kitchen bouquet for desired color. Add okra mixture and bring to boil. Reduce to low simmer, and cook for 1 1⁄2 hours. Last half hour, add shrimp and parsley and simmer and very low temp, not to overcook shrimp. Serve in bowls, topped with a scoop of cooked long grain rice and top with sprinkle of green onion.

Gumbo is best if cooked day before. Make sure to cool completely before storing in fridge.



The perfect everyday, all day, what do I want to eat dish, Jambalaya.

André’s Chicken and Sausage Jambalaya

2 cups oil or BACON GREASE
5 lbs uncooked rice (mahatma is fine)
6 pounds chicken (thighs work great, also legs)
6 pounds sausage, sliced
4 lbs white onions, chopped fine
2 bunches green onions, chopped fine
2 pounds celery (2 bunches), chopped fine
2 pounds (6-8) green bell peppers, chopped fine
3 tbs. Minced Garlic
15 cups chicken broth or stock
½ cup crystal hot sauce
½ cup lea and perrins
1 bunch parsley
Salt
Pepper



DIRECTIONS

Season your raw chicken with Cajun seasoning (Tonys, etc) Cayenne pepper will also work. If using bacon grease, fry one pound of bacon very well in you heated jambalaya pot. Remove bacon, save and eat with your beer while you cook. Add you chicken pieces to hot grease. Fry until golden brown, remove and set aside. Add sausage and cook until pieces are nice and browned. Remove sausage. Remove almost all grease from pot. Add onions, celery, garlic and bell pepper and cook until golden brown. If onions start to stick, add small amount of water. Be careful not to burn onions. When onion mixture is cooked, add chicken and sausage, chicken stock, salt, pepper, lea and perrins, hot sauce, parsely, salt and pepper to taste (maybe 2 tbs of salt and 2 pepper) and green onions. If you need a darker color, you can use kitchen bouquet. Bring to a boil and stir. Add rice and stir again. Cook approximately 20 minutes on low heat. Remove lid and turn rice over. Do not stir a lot! Replace lid and cook approximately 10 more minutes. Then, do not open pot….turn off the fire, leave the lid on, and let Jambalaya rest 20 MINUTES with the LID ON. Remove lid and fluff Jambalaya. Should be perfect!!!

Serve with white or French bread and Miller Lite, and you too will be a coonass.

** you can adjust the rice and chicken stock…. Just remember to use 2 parts liquid to 1 part rice.



You have heard me talk about it... here's your chance to do it yourself!

Louisiana Boudin

2 1/2 pounds pork butt, cut into 1-inch cubes
1/2 pound pork liver, rinsed in cool water
2 quarts water
1 cup chopped onions
1/2 teaspoon minced garlic
1/2 cup chopped green bell peppers
1/2 cup chopped celery
4 1/4 teaspoons salt
2 1/2 teaspoons cayenne
1 1/2 teaspoons ground black pepper
1 cup finely chopped parsley
1 cup chopped green onions tops, (green part only)
6 cups cooked medium-grain rice
1 1/2-inch diameter, casings, about 4 feet in length

In a large sauce pan, combine the pork butt, pork liver, water, onions, garlic, bell peppers, celery, 1 teaspoon salt, 1/4 teaspoon cayenne, and 1/4 teaspoon black pepper. Bring the liquid up to a boil and reduce to a simmer. Simmer for 1 1/12 hours, or until the pork and liver are tender. Remove from the heat and drain, reserving 1 1/2 cups of the broth. Using a meat grinder with a 1/4-inch die, grind the pork mixture. 1/2 cup of the parsley, and 1/2 cup of the green onions, together. Turn the mixture into a mixing bowl. Stir in the rice, remaining salt, cayenne, black pepper, parsley, and green onions. Add the broth, 1/2 cup at a time, and mix thoroughly. Either using a feeding tube or a funnel, stuff the sausage into the casings and make 3-inch links. Bring 1 gallon of salted water up to a boil. Poach the sausage for about 5 minutes, or until the sausage is firm to the touch and plump. Remove from the water and allow to cool.



The following recipes can be gathered to make one amazing meal.


Andre’s Pan Fried Chicken

3 pounds chicken breasts and legs
1 egg
2/3 cup buttermilk
2 cups flour
Salt, to taste
1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper
1 teaspoon black pepper
1 cup lard or crisco
1 cup solid white vegetable shortening

Let chicken warm to room temperature. Wipe with a damp cloth. In a wide bowl, beat egg with buttermilk.

Place flour, salt and peppers in a brown paper bag. In a large skillet (preferably cast iron) heat lard and shortening. Dip each piece of chicken into the buttermilk-egg mixture and place in a brown paper bag. Close top of bag and shake until piece is well coated. Remove, and repeat for each piece.

When shortening is hot (375 degrees F on a deep-fat thermometer), ease chicken into pan and cook over high heat, turning so both sides cook evenly. Do not crowd more than a few pieces of chicken into pan at one time. When chicken is light gold on both sides, turn down heat to low and partially cover skillet. Cook 15 minutes, turning chicken once.

Remove chicken and drain on brown paper bags. Serve warm or cold. Serves 6 to 8, or André and his brother Allen.


...and on the side....

White Bean and Corn Relish


2 pound white beans, soaked overnight and rinsed
4 bay leaf
4 cups freshly shucked corn (or canned shoepeg works great)
4 tablespoons chopped shallots
Olive oil for cooking
2 cups small diced cucumber
8 tablespoons small diced red bell pepper
1 1/2 tablespoons chopped fresh thyme
4 tablespoon champagne vinegar
8 tablespoons olive oil
Salt and pepper
Creole spice(your house blend!)

In a small sauce pan cook the beans until tender: drain and rinse. Cooking time depends on how old the beans are. In a small saute pan cook the corn and the shallots in hot oil until tender, about 3 minutes. Season with creole spice. Set aside to cool. In a small bowl combine the cooled beans, cooled corn and shallots, cucumbers, peppers, thyme, vinegar and oil. Season highly with house or Creole spice.
Yield: 12 cups


Andre’s Favorite ColeSlaw Dressing

1 tablespoon fresh, finely minced garlic
1 ¼ cups mayo
1/3 cup yellow mustard
3 ½ tablespoons sugar
1 tablespoon black pepper

Yield 2 cups


SLAW

15 cups shredded green cabbage
2 cups shredded purple cabbage
1 ½ cups finely chopped yellow onions
¾ cup finely chopped green bell peppers
2 tablespoons green onions
2 cups of coleslaw dressing

In a large mixing bowl, combine green cabbage, purple cabbage, onions, bell peppers, and green onions. Using hands, toss well. Add dressing, toss and serve.



LSU TIGER JALAPENO CORNBREAD

21/2 cups yellow cornmeal
1/2 cup flour
2 eggs
1 tbl. sugar
1 tsp. salt
2 tsps. baking powder
8 ozs. cream-style corn
1/2 cup chopped pimento
3/4 cup chopped jalapeño peppers
3/4 cup grated Cheddar cheese
Buttermilk
Oil

1. In a large bowl, mix all ingredients together except buttermilk and oil. Add buttermilk, stirring in, until you achieve a medium-thick batter.

2. Pour batter into a well-oiled cast-iron skillet and bake at 400 degrees for about 30 minutes or until a toothpick comes out clean when inserted into the center.

Enjoy as a side dish with red beans, white beans, friend catfish, or you name it.



OK, It ain't cajun, but I love it just the same.....

André’s Favorite Meat Ragu


2 lbs. lean ground beef

2 tbls. olive oil

1 lb. ground pork or 1 medium pkg. of pork spareribs

1 medium red onion, chopped

2 cups chopped yellow onions

1 cup chopped bell pepper

2 stalks celery, chopped

4 cloves garlic, minced

1 lb. Italian link sausage (I like the spicy here, but sweet works well, too)

2 (6-oz.) cans tomato paste

2 (6-oz.) cans tomato sauce

2 (10-oz.) cans tomato purée (San Marzano if you can swing it)

1 (10-oz.) can Rotel diced tomatoes and green chilies

4 tbls. dark brown sugar

3 bay leaves

1/2 tsp. dried basil

1/2 tsp. dried oregano, crushed

1/2 tsp. dried rosemary, crushed

1 tsp. cayenne pepper

1 tsp. Old Bay seasoning

1/2 tsp. Italian seasoning

1 tsp. Tony Chachere's Original Seasoning
(or your favorite cajun seasoning)
1 tsp. kosher salt

4 cups water (use some to rinse out tomato paste cans before adding water to pot)

6 cups chicken stock or broth

1/2 bunch fresh chopped curly parsley

1. In a large Dutch oven, stew pot or Le Creset pot, brown ground beef in olive oil. Remove browned meat from pot and set aside. If using ground pork, brown in same pot. Remove from pot and set aside.

2. Add onions, bell pepper, celery and garlic and sauté until transparent.

3. While the meats are browning and vegetables are sautéing, cut sausage into 1/2-inch pieces and cook in a 350-degree oven for 10-15 minutes. Drain oil and set aside.

4. Add tomato paste to the Dutch oven (my large le cruset pot is perfect!) with the sautéed vegetables. If using spareribs, also add at this time. Stir and blend for 10 to 15 minutes, being careful not to let the tomato paste burn or stick.

5. Add the tomato sauce, tomato purée, all seasonings and Rotel tomatoes and cook on low heat for 30 minutes, stirring gently to keep mixture from sticking. Add fresh chopped parsley, simmer on low for an additional hour. Add chicken broth to get the gravy the right thickness... the way you like it!



This one is one of my old stand-bys......


Andre’s Smothered Pork Chops

Sides: Put on a pot of white rice, and stew some okra or green beans with bacon and onion. Biscuit would be nicey-nice.

Serves 4 normal people, or Andre and his brother Allen.

4 bone-in rib loin pork chops, cut about 3/4-inch thick
Ground black pepper
Salt
1 tbl. olive oil
2 tbls. all-purpose flour
2 tbls. vegetable oil
2 medium onions, sliced thin
2 garlic cloves, minced
1/2 bell pepper, coarsely chopped
1 carrot, thinly sliced
1 tbl. brown sugar
1 cup chicken broth
1 tsp. Worcestershire sauce
1 baked sweet potato, cut into chunks
3 tbls. fresh minced parsley
Cooked rice

1. Season pork chops with pepper and salt.

2. Sear (brown) chops in heated olive oil over medium-high heat. Remove chops, set aside.

3. Make a roux in the same skillet with the flour and oil added to the browned bits left in the skillet from the chops. Cook to a medium-brown color.

4. Stir onions, garlic, bell pepper and carrot slices into the hot roux and stir and turn vegetables until they are coated with the roux. Lower heat and put top on skillet to sweat the vegetables for about 10 minutes as they brown.

5. Return chops and any juices from the chops to the skillet. Mix brown sugar into the vegetables and chops, cover skillet and cook for 5 minutes more.

6. Uncover skillet and add chicken broth, Worcestershire sauce, chunks of sweet potato and additional seasoning if desired. Stir to make sure the vegetables are covered evenly with the broth. Cover again and simmer for 30 minutes or until chops are tender and the gravy has thickened nicely.

7. If the gravy gets too thick as it simmers, add a couple of tablespoons of water to thin it.

8. Sprinkle chopped parsley over chops and gravy and serve with cooked rice.

Note: Sometimes I add a can of good quality tomatoes when I stir in the chicken broth. This dish reheats well, but why not just finish it off?

Thursday, July 27, 2006

In Case You Missed It, Again!

Because You Just Can't Remember It All......



Working too hard? Head in the clouds? Wondering what’s happening in the NYC culinary scene?

Time to catch up.



Every Bite With A Krunch
As if we didn’t need yet another pizza joint, the folks at Krunch Pizza Bar have opened their slender outlet to raves on the East Side… and with thin and crispy pies packed with items like proscuitto, polpetti (meatballs), shrimp and homemade mozzarella… a cab ride over may not be such a bad idea (2nd Ave btw 51st and 52nd)

She’s Back! She’s Back!

My vision of loveliness, the dear old polish woman who runs First Avenue Pierogie and Deli has returned from her annual trip to Eastern Europe, and is again making some of the best pierogie in the city. Keep in mind these little gems are to go, but all you need is a skillet and a stick of butter to transport yourself to Warsaw for the afternoon. (1st Ave btw 7th and St. Marks)

Polish Oasis
Speaking of pierogie, if you can’t wait and need them asap, there may be no better (or cheaper) place to get your fix than Neptune, the campy polish diner on the lower east side. What many people don’t know is that Neptune has a lush, relaxing garden out back and is a wonderful refuge on just about any summer afternoon or evening. And more importantly, they pan fry their pierogie to crispy perfection… and don’t deep fry like the other pretenders in the neighborhood (Veselka). (1st Ave at 12th)

All The Rage

Yes, chicken is exciting stuff and word has it that the folks at Dirty Bird To Go are doing it right. With double-dipped free range, slow-roasted and tasty fingers (no doubt an idea spawned by the success of Cane’s Chicken Fingers, the Baton Rouge phenomenon now sweeping the nation), those lucky enough swing by have been happy happy. Throw in a side of dirty rice, mac n’ cheese and cornbread and things can get downright silly. (7th Ave near 14th)

Is the Secret Out?
It wasn’t long ago that taco lovers were whispering the praises of La Esquina, the cooler-than-all-get-out Mexican joint near Nolita… but now?
Well, let’s just say that the secret door (see photo) that leads to the underground dining room brimming with pulled pork tortas and chorizo and potato tacos may no longer be a secret, but none the less, the food is happening and the scene is just downright cool. Bring an out-of-towner and freak ‘em out. (Kenmare at Lafayette)





When Godiva Just Won’t Do

Without anyone knowing it, NYC has turned into a chocolate Mecca. Jaques Torres may be the king, and Godiva may be in every neighborhood… but the best may lie in an Upper West Side boutique… Scharffen Berger. The stuff is likely the finest grade made in the US, and is sworn by famous chefs everywhere. Bakers swoon, but now you too can drop by and see for yourself. The difference? Scharffen Berger imports their own cacao beans and roasts them in small batches… resulting in a process as delicate as wine making. It really is that good… although, the chocolate covered Cheerios that Torres makes are as good as anything you’ll ever put in your mouth. (Amsterdam at 83rd)



Bits and Pieces
The Farmers Market at Rockefeller Plaza continues through mid-August with an array of fresh fruits and veggies, homemade pies, pretzen, plants and wines. Impress your co-workers.. swing over and buy a piece of fruit..... Is Olympic Pita in Brooklyn the owner of the best shwarma plate in NYC?.... they have many convinced..... Panya Bakery is your best opportunity to try japanese breads, and they do them well.... the Upper West Side's PizzaBolla continues to dish out super thin crust pizza, without the grease.... speaking of UWS, has anyone gone to Loft?...



RECIPE OF THE WEEK

I was in Michigan a few weeks ago, feeding a large group. As I usually cook Louisiana specialties, I pulled a recipe from my vault, that I have adored forever.

As you know, New York has it's subs, Chicago has it's Italian Beef, Philly it's Cheesesteak... and Louisiana, it's PoBoys. One of my favorites, is a traditional New Orleans Roast Beef PoBoy. It is melt-in-your-mouth slow cooked beef, piled onto fresh french bread, and topped with thinly shredded cabbage and sour pickles... covered in gravy and beef debris. I just can't keep this to myself any longer. From the NOLA archives. Enjoy.



Roast Beef Po’ Boy with Debris Gravy Recipe





For the Roast:
1 Beef Chuck Roast (this one was 2 ½ pounds)
2 Garlic Cloves thinly sliced
Kosher Salt & Black Pepper
Cayenne
3 Tbsp Lard or Vegetable Oil
1 Small Onion, Diced
1 Small Carrot, Diced
1 Cup Beef Stock
1 Cup Chicken Stock
Water if necessary
2 Tbsp Worcestershire Sauce
1 Tbsp Hot Sauce
2 Sprigs Fresh Thyme
1 Fresh Bay Leaf
Kosher Salt and Black Pepper to taste

Cut small slits into the roast, about every 3 inches, try not to pierce all the way to the bottom. Stuff the sliced garlic into the slits.
Season the Roast very liberally on all sides with the Salt & Black Pepper, season with Cayenne to your taste, I don’t use much.
Heat the fat in a heavy bottomed Dutch Oven over high heat, when the oil starts to smoke, wait a few more seconds, then carefully add the Roast cut side down. Brown very well on all sides, without burning it. Remove to a plate.
Drain off all but 1 Tbsp of the fat in the pan, add the onions and carrots, cook until the onions just start to brown, place the roast back in the pan, then add the stocks. Finish, if necessary, with enough water to bring the cooking liquid 3/4 of the way up the roast. Add the remaining ingredients. Bring to a boil, then back down to a simmer. Simmer covered for 3-4 hours or until the meat falls apart by staring at it.

For the Debris Gravy:
Carve the meat into very thin slices, it will be hard to do and will fall apart, that is good. All of the bits and pieces, that fall off are your Debris (pronounced DAY-bree.) Add all of the bits and chunks to you cooking liquid after skimming off the fat from the surface, keep the carved meat with a little liquid on a warm plate, covered tightly with plastic wrap. Bring the gravy to a full boil and reduce until it coats the back of a spoon. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

For the Po’ Boy:
New Orleans Style French Bread (Po’ Boys are generally about 9-10 inches long per sandwich. As you can see I made mine a bit smaller, shame on me.) Cut the bread 3/4 of the way through leaving a hinge (as seen in the background of the pic.) I find the hinge makes for slightly, easier eating.
Shredded Lettuce (or Cabbage a la Mothers)
Mayonnaise
Roast Beef (see above)
Debris Gravy

Slather the bread with a very generous portion of Mayonnaise on the inside of the upper and lower halves. Place about a cup of Shredded Lettuce on the bottom half. Cover the lettuce with a generous portion of the “sliced” Beef. Drown the beef with Debris Gravy.

Grab a stack of napkins, a cold beer and enjoy (and call Andre, as you need help eating all of this).

Thursday, July 20, 2006

Quality Meats: The Miracle On 58th

The New Kid In Midtown Gets It Right... In A Big Way.



When it’s great, it’s great.

Quality Meats is not just great… it’s out of this world.

One of my pet peeves in this life is going to restaurants that get to the 1 yard line and don’t get into the end zone… you know, the details. One thing is great, another sub-par, another not so good. I think to myself “if they would just do a few things different.. what an experience this would be.”

Well, before Quality Meats opened it’s doors, someone sat down and figured it out. And they got it right.

Let’s start at the door.

Upon entering this funky, industrial space… you notice the uber-cool light bulbs hanging from the exposed ceiling. The darkish lounge area is highlighted by a small bar and a few seating areas. Cozy.


At first glance, most places this stylish are telling you that your food is going to be average. But as I turned my head I noticed something that would end that theory in its tracks. A prosciutto bar.

Oh yea. I’m not kidding. A 6-seat thing of beauty, with a guy slicing fresh ham, salame, coppa, bresaola and spicy sopressata. If the meats don’t quite do it for you, there are fresh cheeses, including a Manchego, a Humboldt Fog and a Cabrales. Homemade potato chips and cheese condiments complete the bar, as if it needed additional greatness.

I knew then we’d likely have a killer meal.

After a frosty Ketel One Martini, we were met in the lounge and escorted to our table.. and I must admit, I was shocked at the size of the space. What looked to be a one room, typically smallish steak house opened into a 2-story masterpiece… with a wine bottle-encased stairway in the middle of the space. This climb led to an upstairs dining room, well appointed and full of hungry meat eaters.

Our table was set perfectly, with a crisp, white lined tablecloth sporting the embroidered initials “QM”. Detail is everything.

We were quickly greeted by our server, and presented with wine and meal options. This was going to get tough, as the wine list and menu are jammed full of winners.

The dinner menu includes a small selection of regional oysters on the half shell, but I opted for the Lobster Cocktail… a half chicken lobster, cracked and served with several unique sauces. Truth be told, the lobster was so delicious, I skipped the sauces altogether.

Additional starters and appetizers include shellfish bouquets, steak tartare, crabcakes, amazing salads, corn chowder, scallops and soft shell crabs… but the standout was not to be topped.

Roasted bone marrow.

Now, if you haven’t indulged in this gem, let me convince you to do so. It is a taste and experience not to be missed… and Quality Meats does a great job. On the platter with the two roasted meat bones, are a gathering of crispy toast points and a small dish of pork tasso and herbs. Now I know why my dog Coltrane freaks out when I walk through the door with one of these from the butcher. If he could talk, he’s have me pop these bones in the oven and slice up some bread. This is good stuff.


About this time, a gentleman with a small, wheeled cart rolled along side the table, and began to make a tableside steak sauce. Yes, you read it correctly. Homemade, tableside steak sauce. Into the motar and pestle went a bevy of ingredients, including freshly sniped rosemary and thyme, garlic, tomato and orange puree, a raisin paste along with a few other items. Before we knew it, we were slathering the stuff on just about anything we could put our hands on. Detail is everything.

Shortly after the steaks arrived, and didn’t disappoint. I had a butterflied Filet Minon, cooked perfectly. This steak was tender and full of flavor… and I soon learned that I wouldn’t need a knife to cut it.

Alongside, we opted for 2 of 9 mouthwatering side dishes…. the Corn Crème Brulee, and Gnocchi and Cheese. Both were terrific and different, and not just for the sake of being so. Next time, we’ll choose from Buttered Edamame with Mint Salt, 3 different varities of potatoes, and market fresh onions, spinach, zucchini and asparagus.

Have I mentioned to you that I love this place?

For you fish mongers, Quality Meats carries a nice selection of fresh fish, including Tuna, Sole, Halibut and Salmon. We didn’t indulge, but I would guess that I would have been happy with just about any of these as well.

Not having room for dessert, I ordered anyway… a rhubarb crumble “pie of my own” with homemade vanilla ice cream. It was spectacular (all 4 bites), and next time I’ll make a greater effort to save room for this course, as the dessert menu looked to be carefully crafted. The pie list included a Key Lime, Banana Cream and Pecan Bourbon Chocolate Chunk… along with four delectable tarts. The special was a cantaloupe sherbert… highlighting a list of mouthwatering ice creams including Blueberry Pie and Coffee and Donuts. These are also sold by the quart.

As the night drew to a close, the leftovers were wrapped to take home. At Quality Meats, the take home goodies are not carted back to the table to sit on the floor, but rather delivered to the coat check room to be picked up as we exited for the evening. Detail is everything.

There may be flaws at this midtown newcomer, but if there are I couldn’t find them on my first visit. This experience is what dining out is meant to be… putting your faith and dollars in someone else’s hands and letting them do their thing. Deliver a perfect experience. It’s not cheap, but few things in this city worth raving about are. The only thing I’ll do for sure next time is call well in advance for reservations.

Quality Meats

57 W 58th St
New York 10019
Btwn 5th & 6th Ave

Monday, July 17, 2006

Cité : New York’s Best Deal?

This Is A Deal You Simply Won’t Believe…




New Yorkers love deals.

It’s true. Sure, they won’t overpay for a cup of coffee downstairs in the deli, but they will ride the subway into the next borough to save $1.00 on a chicken taco. You gotta love that. Moxie.

I too love to seek dining deals… and every once in a while, I hit the jackpot. Earlier this year I discovered a deal that I thought was too good to be true… and over the weekend I visited again to reaffirm my initial belief. This you won’t believe.

I was wrong. It’s true. It’s really true.

New York City’s best dining value lies on 51st between 6th and 7th at the restaurant “Cité”.


Now you can find Prix Fixe dinners all over town, and then some. They are all just about the same, give or take a terrine of foie gras, or a roasted beet salad. But name me one restaurant that includes your wine. Uh, all you can drink.

Let me repeat that. All you can drink.

Welcome to the wine dinner at Cité.

This gem of an offer used to be an “after 8pm bonus” the restaurant used to lure late diners, and get the word out about the joint. But after tremendous success and rampant word-of-mouth advertising, Cité has made this a nightly affair…. anytime you wish…. all summer long.

What makes this such a great deal is that you don’t order off of a “wine dinner” menu…. you order from the real thing… the same menu everyone is gazing at. You get to choose and appetizer, and entrée and a dessert.

At my table Saturday evening (reserve early and plan to stay late) one diner started with Pan Fried Crab Cakes… followed by Seared Tuna… and wrapped it up with Red Velvet Cake. Another guest started with Grilled Calamari, followed by a dry-aged Ribeye… and a Truffle Brownie Sundae.

Me?..... Homemade Potato Gnocchi in a citrus cream, the petite Ribeye Frités… and the Rice Pudding Crème Brulée. Uh, the petite Ribeye is 14 ounces… plenty of food for even a big appetite.


Of course, the menu also includes rack of lamb, beef short ribs, a Neiman Ranch pork chop, wild salmon, several choice pastas and fresh fish and scallop options. Worry not, you’re going to find something that strikes a chord.

But enough about the food. Let’s talk about the wine.

You get at minimum 4 wines during the evening. The night always starts with a very nice bottle (or bottles) of champagne.. and we enjoyed the Mumm Cordon Rouge Brut NV. The bubbly is usually followed by a nice white (with your appetizer). Our white was a nice pinot grigio, the Sartori Pinot Grigio 2004…and was light and delicious. This was followed by 2 reds… first, a vintage (Nickel & Nickel Rock Cairn 2000) that was complex and well structured. But before getting through half of this glass, the champion of the evening… a huge, brassy red (Chateauneuf du Pape Vieux Lazaret 2003) hit the table and quickly stole the show. This was not a cheap wine, and before we knew it, we had polished of a few bottles.

The beauty of the wine dinner, is that you can have as much of or as little of each wine offered. If you want champagne all evening, you get champagne all evening. If you want to speed up to the reds, no problem. And again, these are bottomless glasses. You simply drink all you can handle.

You would think that this deal would include sub-par wines… but on both of my visits, I found the wines to be excellent… along the lines of a bottle I would purchase for a special dinner in my own home, or to present as a thoughtful gift. They were well-balanced and well-selected. There is thought here, and it shows through the nightly selections as well as the well crafted menu.

The price? Hold on to your hat. $69.00 a person.

Yes, $69.00.

So, let’s do some math. Crab Cakes… $14.00…. Filet Minon… $41.00…. Crème Brulée… $9.00….. add tax, blah, blah, blah,…. I get $75 bucks. This means…. you make a reservation at Cité….you order a great dinner…. and drink all the wine you can, for free. Free.


Cité is not Balthazar, nor Cirque. But it is a charming, fun and substantial experience, with the best wine deal in town. Make a reservation, and bring friends. And cab fare… it’s going to be a long night.




Cité


120 W 51st St, New York 10020
Btwn 6th & 7th Ave

AmEx, MC, Visa, Disc, DC, JCB

HOURS

Lunch
Weekdays: 12pm-3pm
Dinner
Daily: 5pm-11:30pm
Cite Grill Lunch
Daily: 11:30am-5pm
Cite Grill Dinner
Mon-Sat: 5pm-11:30pm

Wednesday, July 12, 2006

One Nice Slice

NY's Best Pizza Slice Is Giving The Others The Boot!



I love NY pizza.

I love the gourmet stuff, the simple stuff, the cheesy stuff, the greasy stuff… you name it. And believe you me, NYC is not resting on its pizza laurels. Over the past few years, the NYC slice has undergone a transformation, and it’s getting fun watching the creativity spill into the streets of Manhattan.

The first new trend in pizza??... local restaurants are now taking the stuff seriously. It wasn’t long ago when pizza was considered fluff on a menu at a nice Italian restaurant. Today, wood burning ovens are turning out thin, crispy roman style pies topped with everything from pork cheeks to arugula. Thank our friend Mario Batali for this…. some of the best restaurant pies in the city can be found at his hot spot, Otto.

The next trend is that of the regular slice. Sure, you can still find the slice, but next to it you’ll find a pizza topped with chicken and broccoli, eggplant, veal parm… and get this… pasta. Yes, a pizza topped with penne.

Also finding a home across the city is the square, thick and sweet “Mama’s Slice”… a San Marzano style square of pan style pizza, topped with delectable tomatoes and fresh cheese. This is really growing on me.

But through it all, I have found (as of today) what I think is simply the best slice of pizza in New York… and believe it or not, it’s not a traditional slice.


The boys at “Two Boots” Pizza in New York have done the impossible (Two Boots as in Italy and Louisiana being shaped like a boot). They have won the hearts and stomachs of New Yorkers with a special slice of pizza coming from a menu of unique toppings… and a super crunchy corn meal crust. If they only had a store on the Upper West Side.

“Two Boots” has a full menu of named pies, to help you find their best sellers. The Larry Tate (spinach, tomatoes, garlic and ricotta), The Devine (Tasso, Onions and Jalapeños), The Big Maybelle (Chicken, Pepperoni, Garlic on a white pie)… well you get the picture. But for my money, the best pizza in NYC at the moment, is The Newman.

The Newman… sopressata, sweet Italian sausage, ricotta and mozzarella. Killer. The slices are humongous, but the whole pie is the way to go. Simply put, you’ll want more.

What makes the pizza great is the finely ground Italian sausage… and fresh ricotta. When you ground sausage fine, you get to taste the real ingredients… the spices and pork. The crust on these pizzas are so well made and firm, that you can often hold the slice by the crust without it faltering an inch. Love that.

For those who like spicy, there is an interesting Bayou Beast pie that includes shrimp, crawfish and tasso. I love the idea of this, and like this pie… although I have found the shrimp to be less than fresh on occasion. That said, if the ingredients are fresh, this is also a good option (have water nearby).

Alas, you can build your own at “Two Boots”… and get your dream pie. They have killer ingredients, and midtown delivery is prompt.

So there you have it. Sure, I may change my mind (and believe me, I am a Bleeker Street Pizza loyalist)…. But today, my favorite slice is that unconventional “Newman” slice by our friends at Two Boots. Drop by and taste for yourself.

For more, go to www.twoboots.com and find a store in Manhattan.... and think of me when you crunch on that first bite!

Tuesday, July 04, 2006

In Case You Missed It

Things Every NYC Foodie Should Know... and Then Some


this is an ongoing segment that will appear
at random during the run of this blog... enjoy!




Fancy Schmancy
Lincoln Plaza Theatres not only serves popcorn, but sells fresh salmon, gourmet sandwiches and Lindt Chocolate. So long Milk Duds. (Broadway btw 62 and 63)

Certain Hangover
Gabriella's, the mexican joint brought to you by the company that owns Artie's and Carmines, sells their shots of Patron Silver in hi-ball glasses with 3 limes... it's not one, but three shots.... uh, you're calling in sick tomorrow. (Columbus at 93rd)

Show Me The Money
Yes, The Rink Bar at Rockefeller Plaza is expensive, but you can avoid the ATM machine if you hit their happy hour on Fridays, when selected cocktails including their Margaritas are $6. (50th btw 5th and 6th)

Simplicity Strikes
Fairway Cafe, the delightful dining spot above the famed grocery store, will change its menu after July 5th, moving to a Prix Fixe deal somewhere in the neighborhood of $37 smackers. Of course, they'll continue serving their delicious steaks... which many consider to be the best on the Upper West Side. Their French Fries are legendary. (Broadway at 73)

How Cool Are You?
Vietnamese sandwiches may be the next "piadina" type craze to whoo New Yorkers.... but you can get ahead of the crowd by dropping $4 bones at Nicky's Vietnamese Sandwiches on your own "bahn mi". Yes, they are really that good. (E. 2 btw A and B)

Please Don't Tell
At $9.95, the Steak Tips bar appetizer may still be the best deal in NYC at the overpriced Del Friscos Steakhouse. Even though the drinks are pricy, the view of the room from the bar is delightful and the tender Filet Mignon and perfect mashed potatoes make you feel as if you are stealing a meal from "the man". (6th Ave at49)

Make A Run For The Border
Calle Ocho, the post-trendy UWS hang and dine, is serving 5 different summer sangrias... but possibly the city's best baha tacos served pu-pu platter style in the bar. The small, homemade corn tortillas are the bomb. (Columbus and 81)

Finally, Someone Is Thinking
If you can't get enough Kraft Mac n' Cheese out of the blue box, your cheesey dreams have come true. S'Mac has opened in the Lower East Side, with a menu of nothing but decadent versions of yes, Mac n' Cheese. By the way, if you don't like their Cheeseburger, brie, manchego, goat or cajun varieties, you can build-your-own..... (E. 12th near 1st)

Deals For the Taking
The new food site www.diningfever.com highlights restaurant deals across the city... so you can save the $21 bucks you are gonna need for that movie you need to flip for, too.

and Andre's Fast Bites......

Open since 1952, Poseidon Bakery (9th btw 44/45) crafts their authentic baklava and spinach pies with filo dough they make by hand.... Cosi, the NYC fast food outlet may have one of the better bowls of gumbo you can eat in Manhattan, and thats coming from a Louisiana kid.... Yonah Schimmel Knish Bakery (Houston btw 1/2) has not 5 or 10, but over 20 varieties of Knish to try... of which you can wash down witha real egg cream or lime rickey..... Beard Papa has moved their cream puff business to the Upper West Side and is selling their crack-like goodies on Broadway..... Starbucks nows sells their iced coffee blends to go, so you can brew, ice and consume at home... speaking of coffee, McDonald's new premium coffees are a huge improvement over the hot, black sink water they were use to slinging....

Thursday, June 29, 2006

Bouchon Bakery... Hauté Mall Cusine?

This Is No Mall, It’s The Time Warner Center



Not long ago, I made my first trip to the Time Warner Center… excited to experience for myself the spectacular space, shops and restaurants that get the pleasure of calling the glamorous building home. I figured I’d shop a while, eat some high class mall grub, browse the book store and sit on a bench. Mall stuff.

Well, I quickly learned the Time Warner Center is no mall. There is no Sbarro, no Orange Julius, no Spencer’s Gifts and no movie theatre. I couldn’t find the lost and found, the arcade, Hot-Dog-On-A-Stick or Wet Seal.

This destination has a gathering of off-the-chart-expensive restaurants... including a Japanese restaurant called Masa ($400 per person), a Coach and Hugo Boss store, a Davidoff Cigar shop and Jazz at Lincoln Center, one of the finest jazz destinations in the United States, if not the world (if you haven’t been inside the Allen Room, you simply won’t believe your eyes). Oh yea, there are rare Botero statues in the lobby, too.

So, finding a light, inexpensive lunch on a visit to this building can be a challenge.

The easy answer lies underneath the chrome and glass structure, inside the Whole Foods Market. This gourmet epiphany has darn near everything you can imagine and more… including a pizza counter, a sushi bar, fresh bakery, sandwich deli, coffee bar and Jamba Juice. It’s a good option, if you don’t mind getting knocked down by an old lady from the Upper West Side pushing a cart as if she‘s on the pole at the Indy 500. There is a cramped space (too many people usually) to eat your pickings as well.

Alas, there is another option.

The gem of affordable eating at the Time Warner Center lies underneath the “Samsung” sign on the 3rd floor, Thomas Keller’s Bouchon Bakery.


First, this is not a low budget joint… but you can get in and out for under $15 to $20 without wine… not a bad deal considering your neighbors in this swanky joint.

That said, a nice glass of wine and plate of quality cheese is a nice way to start or end any day of shopping.

The menu at Bouchon is small and focused on mainly gourmet salad and sandwich offerings… which is just fine with me. Who needs a heavy meal when dropping $175 on a pair of shoes?

Salads are carefully picked and light. Don’t look for a four pound Taco Bell tostada salad here, you won’t find it. What you will find is a lovely Hearts of Romaine selection with botarga cheese, a classic watercress salad with candied walnuts and your obligatory beet and goat cheese variety (although done very well).

Sandwiches seem to be the choice… and range from a classic French ham and cheese baguette to a tartine of tuna nicoise to a roast turkey with brie… as well as a roast beef with melted fontina.

The roast beef was pressed crispy and was an excellent choice… especially if you like your beef rare. The garlic aioli sets this sandwich off… and the bread is just like you like it… crunchy on the outside, and soft on the inside.

The turkey is also a great choice… and included a nice slaw on the sandwich. You should note that all of the breads here at Bouchon are exceptional, and are of boutique bakery quality. Each sandwich comes on it’s own signature roll.

One disappointment was the Cashew Butter and Apricot jam on toasted brioche. While this all sounds great, and the cashew butter and jam were terrific, the sandwich is prepared like a grilled cheese sandwich, and is just too greasy for my taste. Perhaps I compared this dish to one of my favorites across town at ‘inoteca… but even as a dessert, I wish I had opted for a pastry instead.



The kitchen does serve a few simple entrée-like selections… a quiche of the day, assorted patés, a cheese plate (overpriced and smallish), smoked salmon and a terrine of foie gras. Additionally, there is quality soup… although for 11.25 a bowl, your money is better spent on pure carbs.

Bouchon Bakery does carry a nice coffee menu as well as a quality wine list of hand picked selections… available by the glass. These are solid wines that may be a notch above what you might expect in a café like this one across town.

So the verdict?

I like it. There was something special about spending a Sunday afternoon perched high above the Time Warner Center atrium, people watching… munching on foie gras… sipping a fruity sauvignon blanc. Yes, it is a hair pretentious, and yes, slightly overpriced.

But at least you are getting quality goods from folks who know their stuff.

For a mall, you can’t do much better. Unless you walk upstairs and drop $300 at Per Sé, that is. Meanwhile, I’ll see you at Bouchon Bakery.


Bouchon Bakery

10 Columbus Circle, 3rd Floor,
New York 10019

At 60th St

Phone: 212-823-9366

Monday, June 26, 2006

Old School on Second Ave

Steak and Lobster Is Still Fancy, Even in 2006



Sometimes, you need to get old school.

In New York, that means a place that opened in... well, 1926.

Yes, your dearly beloved foodie turned 40 this gloomy June weekend, and to celebrate I decided to depart from the frilly and trendy to seek out the crusty, long-standing old timer. You heard it. No pomegranate martini. No cucumber spritzer. I’m talking old school.

After a bit of snooping around, I found not 5 or 10, but dozens of NYC spots that could fit into this category. I settled on a spot that opened in 1926, an annex of the famed “Palm” restaurant…. better known as “The Palm, Too”.

Palm Too is one of those places you would swear you saw a mafia boss. Through the front door reveals a severely undersized bar with no stools, and a smallish cramped dining room. Not knowing the size of the place, I thought that was it! But when we were seated, we realized, there is a maze of rooms in this cave of culinary history.

History abounds as the walls of the Palm Too are a living cartoon. Drawings of patrons, celebs, politicians, you name it…. they all live here. There is simply too much to look at.

Let’s talk food.


Truthfully, if a restaurant has been open for over 75 years, you would think that they are doing something right.

Palm Too does a lot right, but my guess is that the main reason they are still in the mix, is that there isn’t much that has changed.

The specialty of the house here is Nova Scotia lobster. Big ones. No, I mean huge ones. The smallest weighs in at 4 pounds. The largest, a little over 6. We got the 5 pounder.

This breed of lobster is different from the Maine variety, as the tails are a bit smaller… making the claws monstrous. I’m talking the size of your hand. Like steak big. Really.

You can get it boiled if you wish, but you’ll need to talk the waiter into this option, as nearly every lobster here is split in half and broiled. This style is done artfully, as the lobster was still moist and buttery, not too dry. Important.

As we were celebrating, we didn’t want to leave out our friend the Filet Mignon, so we also ordered a filet, butterflied and broiled perfectly. This is a good idea when splitting a lobster.

The sides at Palm Too are yummy. Even though the cottage fries and friend onions are standard, we opted for the pan of crispy hash browns, that came from a skillet in the kitchen. They were formed into a massive, 2 inch pancake and pan fried crispy golden brown. We killed these.

Also at the table were the asparagus fritti, lightly breaded and fried, topped with a buttered sauce and grated cheese. Nice.

The deal of the summer at Palm too is the lobster. A 5 pound lobster for 2, with salads, 2 sides and coffee or tea will set you back $85. Think about it… not bad. We added a steak and a bottle of wine and escaped for a reasonable amount. There is some value on this menu.

As for dessert, you'll be tempted. I must confess, the carrot cake may be the best I have ever out in my mouth. Served in an 8 inch high wedge, it was so moist it melted in my mouth... and the cream chesse frostings were top notch. Someone really knows what they're doing back there.

Can it get better? Sure. Our service was superb. Friendly, helpful and attentive… we had everything we needed, and then some. When you dine there, ask for Dominick.

Overall, we felt as if we had discovered a slice of NYC that few new existed…then of course realized that it was in fact us that had come late to the party. 75 years late.

Palm Too. Step back in time and enjoy. Decades of history can never be a bad thing.

And the lobsters are the real deal.


Palm Too

840 2nd Ave, New York 10017

Btwn 44th & 45th St

Phone: 212-697-5198


AmEx, MC, Visa

Hours

Lunch
Mon-Fri: 12pm-3pm
Dinner
Mon-Fri: 3pm-11pm
Saturday: 5pm-11pm
Sunday: 4pm-10pm

Wednesday, June 21, 2006

An Italian Wonder in Murray Hill

It’s All About Friends and Family at DaCiro



I keep looking for a run of the mill, mediocre Italian joint in Manhattan… and keep falling short.

Not that finding one will be a bad thing… I mean how many terrific Italian places can there be?

Obviously, a whole bunch.

My gastronomic journey through New York lead me to the Murray Hill area of Manhattan a short while ago, to a spot that has graced Lexington Avenue for 10 years. A wonderful ristorante named DaCiro.


Entering the cozy first floor, you immediately get the fact that most everyone in the place had been there before. It’s that kinda spot. As the two women in front of me strolled through the door, they were both kissed and sat at their favorite spot. I like this place.

We had a reservation for 4, and were promptly taken upstairs to a fair sized dining room overlooking Lexington Ave. Wine bottles lined the small stairwell up to relay the feeling of an authentic ristorante. It was enough to evoke a grin. I really like this place.

The meals at DaCiro mainly revolve around a terrific wood-burning oven. The pizzas are true to regional italy…. thin, earthy and remarkable. The homemade crusts were baked to perfection, topped with a thin layer of fresh tomato puree and slices of mozzarella cheese. With countless options including a robiola cheese sprinkled with truffle oil, you could order a bottle of wine and call it a night… but what would you miss out on?

Maybe the breaded clams or roasted octopus?.... or the casserole of eggplant stuffed with ricotta, mozzarella and goat cheese over their amazing tomato sauce?.... or the homemade fettuccine with duck ragu?.... or the orecchiette with sausage? I may never leave this place.

I did have the pasta at DaCiro, and was blown away by the simplistic greatness of their dishes. Having traveled throughout Italy, I am convinced that the greatness of their food isn’t what you taste… but what you don’t taste. I think most Americans that cook Italian food kill it by over seasoning most of the basic recipes. DaCiro recognizes this, and keeps it simple. No smoke and mirrors here, just down to earth good cooking.

We didn’t make it to a secondi piatti on that evening, but the table next to us was feasting on what looked to be a superb ribeye, a roasted chicken dish oozing with spinach and a grilled red snapper that almost prompted me to lean over and kindly ask for a bite. Hey, it's a southern thing.

Yes, there are 1000 of these spots in NYC, and yes, most all of them are spectacular in their own special way…. But if you are looking for a cozy, down-to-earth, neighborhoody joint, look no further. DaCiro won’t disappoint.


DaCiro
229 Lexington Ave.
New York , NY 10016
Phone: (212) 532-1636

Wine list : somewhat average and slightly overpriced
MC, Visa, Amex and Discover
Good desserts, save room.

Friday, June 16, 2006

Artie's Deli: NY's Corned Beef Champion

You Can't Love A Sandwich This Much And Not Be A Little Jewish



Not long ago I was discussing Mika family relatives with my Dad, who reminded me that my Polish grammy (his mom) and Russian Great-Grandmother were both Jewish. My polish grampy round out the side of New England based family, which married into my mother's french-acadian South Louisiana cajun side... making for a culinary miracle. Gumbo and pierogies. I knew their had to be some explanation for my love of jewish foods.

So, now as I rate all types of restaurants, I feel somewhat qualified to speak on corned beef.


I’ve got a vote for “Best Corned Beef Sandwich in New York” and guess what?.... it’s not Katz’s, Stage Deli or Carnegie.

It’s Artie’s, located on the Upper West Side.

Honest engine. Not that I don’t love Carnegie’s mile high sandwiches, or Katz’s tangy and sour pickles… but there is a greatness that Artie’s has achieved that the others just can’t claim. It’s a true neighborhood joint…. sans the tourists and crazy prices.

I fell in love with the deli life nearly 15 years ago, in Chicago. Growing up in Louisiana, the only deli I had ever heard of was on television, as real Jewish delis just didn’t exist. Sure, I ate my share of corned beef and pastrami, but it was usually in the way of a poboy or in a rueben sandwich at a bar.

In Chicago, I found Manny’s and Original Frances and discovered a love for the deli. Later in Los Angeles, I continued my quest and became a regular at spots like Art’s, Canter’s and Nate n’Al’s.

But is was New York that sealed the deal for me, and I’m here to profess my love for Artie’s.

First, let me say not every item on the large Artie’s menu is a winner. I have never been a fan of items at this or any deli that strayed too far from traditional. So at Artie’s, stick with the corned beef, soups, salads, knishes and platters. You can’t go wrong.

First, the corned beef.

I like mine with very little fat, warm, sliced thin, piled high… and melt in your mouth. That’s Artie’s. It’s not an insane amount of corned beef (like Carnegie, etc) but a huge amount…. so much I need to remove half of it to get the sandwich down the hatch. The fresh rye bread is on par with what you would expect and the mustard is robust. Simply put, it’s a perfect sandwich.



What else do I love? Love the mushroom barley soup. Chef salads are crisp and plentiful. Hot dogs are great, for those who love ‘em big and grilled. The omelette’s are good, as are the burgers, stuffed cabbage and potato pancakes.

I do have a few rubs…. one is the pastrami which Artie’s love to hype as being the best. I’ve ordered the pastrami on several occasions, and find it just too fatty. I love the taste, but when I am spending more time maneuvering around the fat (too chewy to eat) than chomping, the distraction becomes a nuisance.

Next are the pickles. Yuch. Maybe it’s me, but these taste as if they were cured in formaldehyde. What ever happened to the straight ahead kosher dill?

Additionally, delivery can be an adventure. When ordering from home (which we usually find to be fast and reliable) make sure you repeat those items that are important (a side of this, and extra of that) as many times these don’t make the bag.

It may sound like a few gripes, but compared to the corned beef…. and eh. No big whoop.

All in all, yes, Artie’s is my reigning champion of Corned Beef. But knowing me, that could change next week… as the quest continues.

Meanwhile, I’ll see yall at Artie’s.







2290 Broadway, New York 10024
At 83rd St

Phone: 212-579-5959
Fax: 212-579-5958

Monday, June 12, 2006

Warm Pretzels, Hot Schnitzel and Cold Beer in the West Village

Can Germany Be As Close As Grove Street?



I can remember working in Berlin several years ago, and loving the neighborhood biergartens. Most everyone who entered was immediately recognized by the proprietor and menus were rarely distributed… only a chalkboard on the wall would inform patrons of what might have changed since yesterday… the last time they were there. It had the feel of someone’s living room rather than a restaurant.

What really amazed me was how these establishments were located deep into the quiet, green, tree-lined streets of the city. Even more astonishing was how at home each establishment felt in it’s suburban surroundings.

It wasn’t long before I moved to NYC that I stumbled across a real German biergarten… and as you might guess, it is located on a quiet, green, tree-lined street in the West Village.


Lederhosen is one of those places you visit once, and label “your secret find”. I had a feeling the place would be authentic when I spotted the HB sign hanging as if the place was in Frankfurt or Berlin. But as I scooted down the narrow entry I realized I may have hit the holy grail of beer and sausage. My instincts we correct.

It is a decidedly campy yet charming space… with a cramped wooden bar space that makes way to a larger, open room with picnic benches and four tops. The walls are painted with an enormous mural resembling something out of the Sound of Music, and on game days a giant projection screen hangs in the rear, with some type of sporting event… these days, it’s the World Cup. Following the formula of beer, sports and sausage, you can see how they have become one of the city’s better destinations.

Where to start? Well, first with the beer.

You won’t find Coors Light on tap here friends. Lederhosen carries one of the finest German beer collections in the city, available in three sizes: klein, gross, and mass, which is a mug the size of a hot tub. With beers like Weihenstephaner, Spaten, Jever, Dinckelacker, Dortmunder, Radeberger and HB München, you’ll likely find whatever you’re looking for. Add about 10 others and what you have is a veritable smorgasbord of suds. For those looking to tap and snack, you can order a 5-litre keg and a plate of sausages for about $50… an amazing deal considering you’ll need a group of friends to begin to put a dent in that much brew. Generally speaking, beer drinkers consider Lederhosen to be one of the best beer buys in the city, with beers ranging from $3-$7 bucks… in the big mugs.

As much as I love the beer, the food wins my heart. I always start with a hot pretzel (ask for no salt if you wish) accompanied by a side of creamy, sweet German zenf (or mustard).

The menu has so many options, many opt for combo plates, with numerous varieties of delicious goodies including knackwurst, bauernwurst, weisswurst, bratwurst, currywurst and kielbasa. They serve tangy snap skin wieners on crusty rolls (perfect with your cold beer on a Saturday afternoon) as well as fantastic cold cut sandwiches with string beans and cucumbers. Make no bones about it, the sausages are terrific and not your grocery store variety. It doesn’t take long to realize you’re eating authentic stuff.


The hot dishes continue to include a host of German favorites, like Koenigsberger Klopse (Beef and Pork) with potatoes, tart sauerkraut and lemon caper sauce, Rindergoulasch (beefstew), Kassler Rippchen (smoked pork chops), Schweinbraten (pork) served over brown gravy and my favorite…. Weiner Schnitzel (fried chicken, pork or veal) cutlet with a side order of spaetzle.

Let’s talk spaetzle a moment, shall we?

I love love love good spaetzle, and the variety at Lederhosen is different, but doesn’t disappoint. Those used to small, round drops of dough will do a double take when you see the longer, pasta like version severed here with great care. Tossed in a bit of brown butter, the dish is a perfect accompaniment and can also stand on it’s own as a great afternoon schnack.

If in fact you can get to dessert, you’ll find a nice selection of homemade goodies, including black forest and German chocolate cakes… but in this joint, I’d almost rather order another helping of potato pancakes and a bucket of beer. Sweets are sweets, but good German food must be taken advantage of vigorously.

Tips? As you might guess, Lederhosen gets packed, so your first visit may want to be on a weekday afternoon, or Saturday or Sunday afternoon before the others roll out of bed. They keep very late hours (some nights until 4am) so the vibe midday is cool and laidback.

Sure there are great German biergartens in NYC, but for my money Lederhosen is winning my heart. I guess I’ll have to make a second visit to Zum Schneider, Loreley, and Heidelberg to solidify my findings. Cheers.

Lederhosen
39 Grove St
New York, Ny 10014
(212) 206-7691
(212) 206-8562 (Fax)
Cross Street: Between Bedford Street and Bleecker Street
Directions: 1, 9 to Sheridan Square or the A, B, C, D, E, F, V to West 4th

Tuesday, June 06, 2006

Cheap Eats In The Big Apple

These Noodles Are The Bomb... Take It From MEE



I’ve long wondered how New Yorkers can afford to eat out as much as they do.

I mean, restaurants in this city aren’t cheap by any means… reflected in the fact that many restaurants use $25 an entrée as an average. Add a salad or app, cocktail, dessert and tip… well that $100 bones per couple. Add a bottle of wine and… well, you can add it up.

It wasn’t long after I moved to NYC that I learned how they do it.

Most New Yorkers don’t eat out in an “upscale” manner nightly. They love their neighborhood dives… cheap eats. They do this several nights a week…so when the big night rolls around, they can splurge.

New Yorkers are passionate about cheap eats. They are known to take the subway to another borough, a 45 minute bus ride, you name it… just to spend $1.30 for a taco. Water cooler chat in my office centers around slices of pizza and chicken shwarma sandwiches. I love that!

That said, please welcome my first truly cheap eat entry…. MEE Noodle Shop.

It was nearly 10 years ago when I first found Mee. I was staying painfully close to Hell’s Kicthen where a recording studio I was working at was located. It was about 1:45 in the morning when I finally finished and met up with a friend who suggested we drop in for dumplings.

The rest is history.

Since that night, I’ve been frequenting Mee whenever I am in the neighborhood… or low on cash. And why not? Mee is a gem of a dive (although not a huge secret anymore) and can dish out the goods with the best of them. And you can get out of there for less than $10 bucks.

They take the noodle thing seriously at Mee. How many do they carry? Well, you can get the spinach noodles, the mandarin, lo mein, thin Cantonese, flat Cantonese, hand pulled, mee fun or chow fun. You can slurp down a variety of dumplings, including steamed meat, seafood and veggie… or get them pan fried. They offer 30 varieties of Cantonese style noodle soups (no charge to change noodle to wonton), and offer 25 varieties of various other soups (squid, fish cake, tofu, tomato beef, hot and sour, Chinese green vegetable, shanghai wonton, etc, etc) as well…. All for around $3.95., for a bucket full. This menu has over 500 items and reads like a trip to Jerry’s Deli. Fantastic.

As for me, I love the food food here. The shrimp toast is terrific, the egg rolls are crispy and contain not a drop of grease and the scallion pancakes ($1.95) may very well be worth the trip alone. You’ll find a few dim sum items here as well, including steam bread with sweet bean paste, pork buns, shrimp siu mai and the like… as well as sizzling platters. For those who are looking for standard grub, their menu reads like a gathering of every Chinese dish in NYC…. Sesame beef and chicken, beef and broccoli… well hell, they have everything. Most large dishes run less than $9 bucks.

I happen to love the subgum wonton here. Fried wonton over beef, chicken and shrimp stir fried with veggies in a spicy brown sauce. Monster dish.




So, the cat is out of the bag. Mee noodle is the kind of late night Chinese dives, and the food is flat out delish. Next time you find yourself drifting through midtown towards Hell’s Kitchen, stop by. For the price of a #3 value meal you can have some authentic dim sum and a bowl of noodles…. and still have change for the cream puff place in the west village.

MEE NOODLE

795 9th Ave at 53rd
New York 10019

AMEX ONLY

Phone: 212-765-2929