Quality Meats: The Miracle On 58th

The New Kid In Midtown Gets It Right... In A Big Way.



When it’s great, it’s great.

Quality Meats is not just great… it’s out of this world.

One of my pet peeves in this life is going to restaurants that get to the 1 yard line and don’t get into the end zone… you know, the details. One thing is great, another sub-par, another not so good. I think to myself “if they would just do a few things different.. what an experience this would be.”

Well, before Quality Meats opened it’s doors, someone sat down and figured it out. And they got it right.

Let’s start at the door.

Upon entering this funky, industrial space… you notice the uber-cool light bulbs hanging from the exposed ceiling. The darkish lounge area is highlighted by a small bar and a few seating areas. Cozy.


At first glance, most places this stylish are telling you that your food is going to be average. But as I turned my head I noticed something that would end that theory in its tracks. A prosciutto bar.

Oh yea. I’m not kidding. A 6-seat thing of beauty, with a guy slicing fresh ham, salame, coppa, bresaola and spicy sopressata. If the meats don’t quite do it for you, there are fresh cheeses, including a Manchego, a Humboldt Fog and a Cabrales. Homemade potato chips and cheese condiments complete the bar, as if it needed additional greatness.

I knew then we’d likely have a killer meal.

After a frosty Ketel One Martini, we were met in the lounge and escorted to our table.. and I must admit, I was shocked at the size of the space. What looked to be a one room, typically smallish steak house opened into a 2-story masterpiece… with a wine bottle-encased stairway in the middle of the space. This climb led to an upstairs dining room, well appointed and full of hungry meat eaters.

Our table was set perfectly, with a crisp, white lined tablecloth sporting the embroidered initials “QM”. Detail is everything.

We were quickly greeted by our server, and presented with wine and meal options. This was going to get tough, as the wine list and menu are jammed full of winners.

The dinner menu includes a small selection of regional oysters on the half shell, but I opted for the Lobster Cocktail… a half chicken lobster, cracked and served with several unique sauces. Truth be told, the lobster was so delicious, I skipped the sauces altogether.

Additional starters and appetizers include shellfish bouquets, steak tartare, crabcakes, amazing salads, corn chowder, scallops and soft shell crabs… but the standout was not to be topped.

Roasted bone marrow.

Now, if you haven’t indulged in this gem, let me convince you to do so. It is a taste and experience not to be missed… and Quality Meats does a great job. On the platter with the two roasted meat bones, are a gathering of crispy toast points and a small dish of pork tasso and herbs. Now I know why my dog Coltrane freaks out when I walk through the door with one of these from the butcher. If he could talk, he’s have me pop these bones in the oven and slice up some bread. This is good stuff.


About this time, a gentleman with a small, wheeled cart rolled along side the table, and began to make a tableside steak sauce. Yes, you read it correctly. Homemade, tableside steak sauce. Into the motar and pestle went a bevy of ingredients, including freshly sniped rosemary and thyme, garlic, tomato and orange puree, a raisin paste along with a few other items. Before we knew it, we were slathering the stuff on just about anything we could put our hands on. Detail is everything.

Shortly after the steaks arrived, and didn’t disappoint. I had a butterflied Filet Minon, cooked perfectly. This steak was tender and full of flavor… and I soon learned that I wouldn’t need a knife to cut it.

Alongside, we opted for 2 of 9 mouthwatering side dishes…. the Corn Crème Brulee, and Gnocchi and Cheese. Both were terrific and different, and not just for the sake of being so. Next time, we’ll choose from Buttered Edamame with Mint Salt, 3 different varities of potatoes, and market fresh onions, spinach, zucchini and asparagus.

Have I mentioned to you that I love this place?

For you fish mongers, Quality Meats carries a nice selection of fresh fish, including Tuna, Sole, Halibut and Salmon. We didn’t indulge, but I would guess that I would have been happy with just about any of these as well.

Not having room for dessert, I ordered anyway… a rhubarb crumble “pie of my own” with homemade vanilla ice cream. It was spectacular (all 4 bites), and next time I’ll make a greater effort to save room for this course, as the dessert menu looked to be carefully crafted. The pie list included a Key Lime, Banana Cream and Pecan Bourbon Chocolate Chunk… along with four delectable tarts. The special was a cantaloupe sherbert… highlighting a list of mouthwatering ice creams including Blueberry Pie and Coffee and Donuts. These are also sold by the quart.

As the night drew to a close, the leftovers were wrapped to take home. At Quality Meats, the take home goodies are not carted back to the table to sit on the floor, but rather delivered to the coat check room to be picked up as we exited for the evening. Detail is everything.

There may be flaws at this midtown newcomer, but if there are I couldn’t find them on my first visit. This experience is what dining out is meant to be… putting your faith and dollars in someone else’s hands and letting them do their thing. Deliver a perfect experience. It’s not cheap, but few things in this city worth raving about are. The only thing I’ll do for sure next time is call well in advance for reservations.

Quality Meats

57 W 58th St
New York 10019
Btwn 5th & 6th Ave

Cité : New York’s Best Deal?

This Is A Deal You Simply Won’t Believe…




New Yorkers love deals.

It’s true. Sure, they won’t overpay for a cup of coffee downstairs in the deli, but they will ride the subway into the next borough to save $1.00 on a chicken taco. You gotta love that. Moxie.

I too love to seek dining deals… and every once in a while, I hit the jackpot. Earlier this year I discovered a deal that I thought was too good to be true… and over the weekend I visited again to reaffirm my initial belief. This you won’t believe.

I was wrong. It’s true. It’s really true.

New York City’s best dining value lies on 51st between 6th and 7th at the restaurant “Cité”.


Now you can find Prix Fixe dinners all over town, and then some. They are all just about the same, give or take a terrine of foie gras, or a roasted beet salad. But name me one restaurant that includes your wine. Uh, all you can drink.

Let me repeat that. All you can drink.

Welcome to the wine dinner at Cité.

This gem of an offer used to be an “after 8pm bonus” the restaurant used to lure late diners, and get the word out about the joint. But after tremendous success and rampant word-of-mouth advertising, Cité has made this a nightly affair…. anytime you wish…. all summer long.

What makes this such a great deal is that you don’t order off of a “wine dinner” menu…. you order from the real thing… the same menu everyone is gazing at. You get to choose and appetizer, and entrée and a dessert.

At my table Saturday evening (reserve early and plan to stay late) one diner started with Pan Fried Crab Cakes… followed by Seared Tuna… and wrapped it up with Red Velvet Cake. Another guest started with Grilled Calamari, followed by a dry-aged Ribeye… and a Truffle Brownie Sundae.

Me?..... Homemade Potato Gnocchi in a citrus cream, the petite Ribeye Frités… and the Rice Pudding Crème Brulée. Uh, the petite Ribeye is 14 ounces… plenty of food for even a big appetite.


Of course, the menu also includes rack of lamb, beef short ribs, a Neiman Ranch pork chop, wild salmon, several choice pastas and fresh fish and scallop options. Worry not, you’re going to find something that strikes a chord.

But enough about the food. Let’s talk about the wine.

You get at minimum 4 wines during the evening. The night always starts with a very nice bottle (or bottles) of champagne.. and we enjoyed the Mumm Cordon Rouge Brut NV. The bubbly is usually followed by a nice white (with your appetizer). Our white was a nice pinot grigio, the Sartori Pinot Grigio 2004…and was light and delicious. This was followed by 2 reds… first, a vintage (Nickel & Nickel Rock Cairn 2000) that was complex and well structured. But before getting through half of this glass, the champion of the evening… a huge, brassy red (Chateauneuf du Pape Vieux Lazaret 2003) hit the table and quickly stole the show. This was not a cheap wine, and before we knew it, we had polished of a few bottles.

The beauty of the wine dinner, is that you can have as much of or as little of each wine offered. If you want champagne all evening, you get champagne all evening. If you want to speed up to the reds, no problem. And again, these are bottomless glasses. You simply drink all you can handle.

You would think that this deal would include sub-par wines… but on both of my visits, I found the wines to be excellent… along the lines of a bottle I would purchase for a special dinner in my own home, or to present as a thoughtful gift. They were well-balanced and well-selected. There is thought here, and it shows through the nightly selections as well as the well crafted menu.

The price? Hold on to your hat. $69.00 a person.

Yes, $69.00.

So, let’s do some math. Crab Cakes… $14.00…. Filet Minon… $41.00…. Crème Brulée… $9.00….. add tax, blah, blah, blah,…. I get $75 bucks. This means…. you make a reservation at Cité….you order a great dinner…. and drink all the wine you can, for free. Free.


Cité is not Balthazar, nor Cirque. But it is a charming, fun and substantial experience, with the best wine deal in town. Make a reservation, and bring friends. And cab fare… it’s going to be a long night.




Cité


120 W 51st St, New York 10020
Btwn 6th & 7th Ave

AmEx, MC, Visa, Disc, DC, JCB

HOURS

Lunch
Weekdays: 12pm-3pm
Dinner
Daily: 5pm-11:30pm
Cite Grill Lunch
Daily: 11:30am-5pm
Cite Grill Dinner
Mon-Sat: 5pm-11:30pm

One Nice Slice

NY's Best Pizza Slice Is Giving The Others The Boot!



I love NY pizza.

I love the gourmet stuff, the simple stuff, the cheesy stuff, the greasy stuff… you name it. And believe you me, NYC is not resting on its pizza laurels. Over the past few years, the NYC slice has undergone a transformation, and it’s getting fun watching the creativity spill into the streets of Manhattan.

The first new trend in pizza??... local restaurants are now taking the stuff seriously. It wasn’t long ago when pizza was considered fluff on a menu at a nice Italian restaurant. Today, wood burning ovens are turning out thin, crispy roman style pies topped with everything from pork cheeks to arugula. Thank our friend Mario Batali for this…. some of the best restaurant pies in the city can be found at his hot spot, Otto.

The next trend is that of the regular slice. Sure, you can still find the slice, but next to it you’ll find a pizza topped with chicken and broccoli, eggplant, veal parm… and get this… pasta. Yes, a pizza topped with penne.

Also finding a home across the city is the square, thick and sweet “Mama’s Slice”… a San Marzano style square of pan style pizza, topped with delectable tomatoes and fresh cheese. This is really growing on me.

But through it all, I have found (as of today) what I think is simply the best slice of pizza in New York… and believe it or not, it’s not a traditional slice.


The boys at “Two Boots” Pizza in New York have done the impossible (Two Boots as in Italy and Louisiana being shaped like a boot). They have won the hearts and stomachs of New Yorkers with a special slice of pizza coming from a menu of unique toppings… and a super crunchy corn meal crust. If they only had a store on the Upper West Side.

“Two Boots” has a full menu of named pies, to help you find their best sellers. The Larry Tate (spinach, tomatoes, garlic and ricotta), The Devine (Tasso, Onions and Jalapeños), The Big Maybelle (Chicken, Pepperoni, Garlic on a white pie)… well you get the picture. But for my money, the best pizza in NYC at the moment, is The Newman.

The Newman… sopressata, sweet Italian sausage, ricotta and mozzarella. Killer. The slices are humongous, but the whole pie is the way to go. Simply put, you’ll want more.

What makes the pizza great is the finely ground Italian sausage… and fresh ricotta. When you ground sausage fine, you get to taste the real ingredients… the spices and pork. The crust on these pizzas are so well made and firm, that you can often hold the slice by the crust without it faltering an inch. Love that.

For those who like spicy, there is an interesting Bayou Beast pie that includes shrimp, crawfish and tasso. I love the idea of this, and like this pie… although I have found the shrimp to be less than fresh on occasion. That said, if the ingredients are fresh, this is also a good option (have water nearby).

Alas, you can build your own at “Two Boots”… and get your dream pie. They have killer ingredients, and midtown delivery is prompt.

So there you have it. Sure, I may change my mind (and believe me, I am a Bleeker Street Pizza loyalist)…. But today, my favorite slice is that unconventional “Newman” slice by our friends at Two Boots. Drop by and taste for yourself.

For more, go to www.twoboots.com and find a store in Manhattan.... and think of me when you crunch on that first bite!

In Case You Missed It

Things Every NYC Foodie Should Know... and Then Some


this is an ongoing segment that will appear
at random during the run of this blog... enjoy!



Fancy Schmancy
Lincoln Plaza Theatres not only serves popcorn, but sells fresh salmon, gourmet sandwiches and Lindt Chocolate. So long Milk Duds. (Broadway btw 62 and 63)

Certain Hangover
Gabriella's, the mexican joint brought to you by the company that owns Artie's and Carmines, sells their shots of Patron Silver in hi-ball glasses with 3 limes... it's not one, but three shots.... uh, you're calling in sick tomorrow. (Columbus at 93rd)

Show Me The Money
Yes, The Rink Bar at Rockefeller Plaza is expensive, but you can avoid the ATM machine if you hit their happy hour on Fridays, when selected cocktails including their Margaritas are $6. (50th btw 5th and 6th)

Simplicity Strikes
Fairway Cafe, the delightful dining spot above the famed grocery store, will change its menu after July 5th, moving to a Prix Fixe deal somewhere in the neighborhood of $37 smackers. Of course, they'll continue serving their delicious steaks... which many consider to be the best on the Upper West Side. Their French Fries are legendary. (Broadway at 73)

How Cool Are You?
Vietnamese sandwiches may be the next "piadina" type craze to whoo New Yorkers.... but you can get ahead of the crowd by dropping $4 bones at Nicky's Vietnamese Sandwiches on your own "bahn mi". Yes, they are really that good. (E. 2 btw A and B)

Please Don't Tell
At $9.95, the Steak Tips bar appetizer may still be the best deal in NYC at the overpriced Del Friscos Steakhouse. Even though the drinks are pricy, the view of the room from the bar is delightful and the tender Filet Mignon and perfect mashed potatoes make you feel as if you are stealing a meal from "the man". (6th Ave at49)

Make A Run For The Border
Calle Ocho, the post-trendy UWS hang and dine, is serving 5 different summer sangrias... but possibly the city's best baha tacos served pu-pu platter style in the bar. The small, homemade corn tortillas are the bomb. (Columbus and 81)

Finally, Someone Is Thinking
If you can't get enough Kraft Mac n' Cheese out of the blue box, your cheesey dreams have come true. S'Mac has opened in the Lower East Side, with a menu of nothing but decadent versions of yes, Mac n' Cheese. By the way, if you don't like their Cheeseburger, brie, manchego, goat or cajun varieties, you can build-your-own..... (E. 12th near 1st)

Deals For the Taking
The new food site www.diningfever.com highlights restaurant deals across the city... so you can save the $21 bucks you are gonna need for that movie you need to flip for, too.

and Andre's Fast Bites......

Open since 1952, Poseidon Bakery (9th btw 44/45) crafts their authentic baklava and spinach pies with filo dough they make by hand.... Cosi, the NYC fast food outlet may have one of the better bowls of gumbo you can eat in Manhattan, and thats coming from a Louisiana kid.... Yonah Schimmel Knish Bakery (Houston btw 1/2) has not 5 or 10, but over 20 varieties of Knish to try... of which you can wash down witha real egg cream or lime rickey..... Beard Papa has moved their cream puff business to the Upper West Side and is selling their crack-like goodies on Broadway..... Starbucks nows sells their iced coffee blends to go, so you can brew, ice and consume at home... speaking of coffee, McDonald's new premium coffees are a huge improvement over the hot, black sink water they were use to slinging....

Bouchon Bakery... Hauté Mall Cusine?

This Is No Mall, It’s The Time Warner Center



Not long ago, I made my first trip to the Time Warner Center… excited to experience for myself the spectacular space, shops and restaurants that get the pleasure of calling the glamorous building home. I figured I’d shop a while, eat some high class mall grub, browse the book store and sit on a bench. Mall stuff.

Well, I quickly learned the Time Warner Center is no mall. There is no Sbarro, no Orange Julius, no Spencer’s Gifts and no movie theatre. I couldn’t find the lost and found, the arcade, Hot-Dog-On-A-Stick or Wet Seal.

This destination has a gathering of off-the-chart-expensive restaurants... including a Japanese restaurant called Masa ($400 per person), a Coach and Hugo Boss store, a Davidoff Cigar shop and Jazz at Lincoln Center, one of the finest jazz destinations in the United States, if not the world (if you haven’t been inside the Allen Room, you simply won’t believe your eyes). Oh yea, there are rare Botero statues in the lobby, too.

So, finding a light, inexpensive lunch on a visit to this building can be a challenge.

The easy answer lies underneath the chrome and glass structure, inside the Whole Foods Market. This gourmet epiphany has darn near everything you can imagine and more… including a pizza counter, a sushi bar, fresh bakery, sandwich deli, coffee bar and Jamba Juice. It’s a good option, if you don’t mind getting knocked down by an old lady from the Upper West Side pushing a cart as if she‘s on the pole at the Indy 500. There is a cramped space (too many people usually) to eat your pickings as well.

Alas, there is another option.

The gem of affordable eating at the Time Warner Center lies underneath the “Samsung” sign on the 3rd floor, Thomas Keller’s Bouchon Bakery.


First, this is not a low budget joint… but you can get in and out for under $15 to $20 without wine… not a bad deal considering your neighbors in this swanky joint.

That said, a nice glass of wine and plate of quality cheese is a nice way to start or end any day of shopping.

The menu at Bouchon is small and focused on mainly gourmet salad and sandwich offerings… which is just fine with me. Who needs a heavy meal when dropping $175 on a pair of shoes?

Salads are carefully picked and light. Don’t look for a four pound Taco Bell tostada salad here, you won’t find it. What you will find is a lovely Hearts of Romaine selection with botarga cheese, a classic watercress salad with candied walnuts and your obligatory beet and goat cheese variety (although done very well).

Sandwiches seem to be the choice… and range from a classic French ham and cheese baguette to a tartine of tuna nicoise to a roast turkey with brie… as well as a roast beef with melted fontina.

The roast beef was pressed crispy and was an excellent choice… especially if you like your beef rare. The garlic aioli sets this sandwich off… and the bread is just like you like it… crunchy on the outside, and soft on the inside.

The turkey is also a great choice… and included a nice slaw on the sandwich. You should note that all of the breads here at Bouchon are exceptional, and are of boutique bakery quality. Each sandwich comes on it’s own signature roll.

One disappointment was the Cashew Butter and Apricot jam on toasted brioche. While this all sounds great, and the cashew butter and jam were terrific, the sandwich is prepared like a grilled cheese sandwich, and is just too greasy for my taste. Perhaps I compared this dish to one of my favorites across town at ‘inoteca… but even as a dessert, I wish I had opted for a pastry instead.



The kitchen does serve a few simple entrée-like selections… a quiche of the day, assorted patés, a cheese plate (overpriced and smallish), smoked salmon and a terrine of foie gras. Additionally, there is quality soup… although for 11.25 a bowl, your money is better spent on pure carbs.

Bouchon Bakery does carry a nice coffee menu as well as a quality wine list of hand picked selections… available by the glass. These are solid wines that may be a notch above what you might expect in a café like this one across town.

So the verdict?

I like it. There was something special about spending a Sunday afternoon perched high above the Time Warner Center atrium, people watching… munching on foie gras… sipping a fruity sauvignon blanc. Yes, it is a hair pretentious, and yes, slightly overpriced.

But at least you are getting quality goods from folks who know their stuff.

For a mall, you can’t do much better. Unless you walk upstairs and drop $300 at Per Sé, that is. Meanwhile, I’ll see you at Bouchon Bakery.


Bouchon Bakery

10 Columbus Circle, 3rd Floor,
New York 10019

At 60th St

Phone: 212-823-9366

Old School on Second Ave

Steak and Lobster Is Still Fancy, Even in 2006



Sometimes, you need to get old school.

In New York, that means a place that opened in... well, 1926.

Yes, your dearly beloved foodie turned 40 this gloomy June weekend, and to celebrate I decided to depart from the frilly and trendy to seek out the crusty, long-standing old timer. You heard it. No pomegranate martini. No cucumber spritzer. I’m talking old school.

After a bit of snooping around, I found not 5 or 10, but dozens of NYC spots that could fit into this category. I settled on a spot that opened in 1926, an annex of the famed “Palm” restaurant…. better known as “The Palm, Too”.

Palm Too is one of those places you would swear you saw a mafia boss. Through the front door reveals a severely undersized bar with no stools, and a smallish cramped dining room. Not knowing the size of the place, I thought that was it! But when we were seated, we realized, there is a maze of rooms in this cave of culinary history.

History abounds as the walls of the Palm Too are a living cartoon. Drawings of patrons, celebs, politicians, you name it…. they all live here. There is simply too much to look at.

Let’s talk food.


Truthfully, if a restaurant has been open for over 75 years, you would think that they are doing something right.

Palm Too does a lot right, but my guess is that the main reason they are still in the mix, is that there isn’t much that has changed.

The specialty of the house here is Nova Scotia lobster. Big ones. No, I mean huge ones. The smallest weighs in at 4 pounds. The largest, a little over 6. We got the 5 pounder.

This breed of lobster is different from the Maine variety, as the tails are a bit smaller… making the claws monstrous. I’m talking the size of your hand. Like steak big. Really.

You can get it boiled if you wish, but you’ll need to talk the waiter into this option, as nearly every lobster here is split in half and broiled. This style is done artfully, as the lobster was still moist and buttery, not too dry. Important.

As we were celebrating, we didn’t want to leave out our friend the Filet Mignon, so we also ordered a filet, butterflied and broiled perfectly. This is a good idea when splitting a lobster.

The sides at Palm Too are yummy. Even though the cottage fries and friend onions are standard, we opted for the pan of crispy hash browns, that came from a skillet in the kitchen. They were formed into a massive, 2 inch pancake and pan fried crispy golden brown. We killed these.

Also at the table were the asparagus fritti, lightly breaded and fried, topped with a buttered sauce and grated cheese. Nice.

The deal of the summer at Palm too is the lobster. A 5 pound lobster for 2, with salads, 2 sides and coffee or tea will set you back $85. Think about it… not bad. We added a steak and a bottle of wine and escaped for a reasonable amount. There is some value on this menu.

As for dessert, you'll be tempted. I must confess, the carrot cake may be the best I have ever out in my mouth. Served in an 8 inch high wedge, it was so moist it melted in my mouth... and the cream chesse frostings were top notch. Someone really knows what they're doing back there.

Can it get better? Sure. Our service was superb. Friendly, helpful and attentive… we had everything we needed, and then some. When you dine there, ask for Dominick.

Overall, we felt as if we had discovered a slice of NYC that few new existed…then of course realized that it was in fact us that had come late to the party. 75 years late.

Palm Too. Step back in time and enjoy. Decades of history can never be a bad thing.

And the lobsters are the real deal.


Palm Too

840 2nd Ave, New York 10017

Btwn 44th & 45th St

Phone: 212-697-5198


AmEx, MC, Visa

Hours

Lunch
Mon-Fri: 12pm-3pm
Dinner
Mon-Fri: 3pm-11pm
Saturday: 5pm-11pm
Sunday: 4pm-10pm

An Italian Wonder in Murray Hill

It’s All About Friends and Family at DaCiro



I keep looking for a run of the mill, mediocre Italian joint in Manhattan… and keep falling short.

Not that finding one will be a bad thing… I mean how many terrific Italian places can there be?

Obviously, a whole bunch.

My gastronomic journey through New York lead me to the Murray Hill area of Manhattan a short while ago, to a spot that has graced Lexington Avenue for 10 years. A wonderful ristorante named DaCiro.


Entering the cozy first floor, you immediately get the fact that most everyone in the place had been there before. It’s that kinda spot. As the two women in front of me strolled through the door, they were both kissed and sat at their favorite spot. I like this place.

We had a reservation for 4, and were promptly taken upstairs to a fair sized dining room overlooking Lexington Ave. Wine bottles lined the small stairwell up to relay the feeling of an authentic ristorante. It was enough to evoke a grin. I really like this place.

The meals at DaCiro mainly revolve around a terrific wood-burning oven. The pizzas are true to regional italy…. thin, earthy and remarkable. The homemade crusts were baked to perfection, topped with a thin layer of fresh tomato puree and slices of mozzarella cheese. With countless options including a robiola cheese sprinkled with truffle oil, you could order a bottle of wine and call it a night… but what would you miss out on?

Maybe the breaded clams or roasted octopus?.... or the casserole of eggplant stuffed with ricotta, mozzarella and goat cheese over their amazing tomato sauce?.... or the homemade fettuccine with duck ragu?.... or the orecchiette with sausage? I may never leave this place.

I did have the pasta at DaCiro, and was blown away by the simplistic greatness of their dishes. Having traveled throughout Italy, I am convinced that the greatness of their food isn’t what you taste… but what you don’t taste. I think most Americans that cook Italian food kill it by over seasoning most of the basic recipes. DaCiro recognizes this, and keeps it simple. No smoke and mirrors here, just down to earth good cooking.

We didn’t make it to a secondi piatti on that evening, but the table next to us was feasting on what looked to be a superb ribeye, a roasted chicken dish oozing with spinach and a grilled red snapper that almost prompted me to lean over and kindly ask for a bite. Hey, it's a southern thing.

Yes, there are 1000 of these spots in NYC, and yes, most all of them are spectacular in their own special way…. But if you are looking for a cozy, down-to-earth, neighborhoody joint, look no further. DaCiro won’t disappoint.


DaCiro
229 Lexington Ave.
New York , NY 10016
Phone: (212) 532-1636

Wine list : somewhat average and slightly overpriced
MC, Visa, Amex and Discover
Good desserts, save room.

Artie's Deli: NY's Corned Beef Champion

You Can't Love A Sandwich This Much And Not Be A Little Jewish



Not long ago I was discussing Mika family relatives with my Dad, who reminded me that my Polish grammy (his mom) and Russian Great-Grandmother were both Jewish. My polish grampy round out the side of New England based family, which married into my mother's french-acadian South Louisiana cajun side... making for a culinary miracle. Gumbo and pierogies. I knew their had to be some explanation for my love of jewish foods.

So, now as I rate all types of restaurants, I feel somewhat qualified to speak on corned beef.


I’ve got a vote for “Best Corned Beef Sandwich in New York” and guess what?.... it’s not Katz’s, Stage Deli or Carnegie.

It’s Artie’s, located on the Upper West Side.

Honest engine. Not that I don’t love Carnegie’s mile high sandwiches, or Katz’s tangy and sour pickles… but there is a greatness that Artie’s has achieved that the others just can’t claim. It’s a true neighborhood joint…. sans the tourists and crazy prices.

I fell in love with the deli life nearly 15 years ago, in Chicago. Growing up in Louisiana, the only deli I had ever heard of was on television, as real Jewish delis just didn’t exist. Sure, I ate my share of corned beef and pastrami, but it was usually in the way of a poboy or in a rueben sandwich at a bar.

In Chicago, I found Manny’s and Original Frances and discovered a love for the deli. Later in Los Angeles, I continued my quest and became a regular at spots like Art’s, Canter’s and Nate n’Al’s.

But is was New York that sealed the deal for me, and I’m here to profess my love for Artie’s.

First, let me say not every item on the large Artie’s menu is a winner. I have never been a fan of items at this or any deli that strayed too far from traditional. So at Artie’s, stick with the corned beef, soups, salads, knishes and platters. You can’t go wrong.

First, the corned beef.

I like mine with very little fat, warm, sliced thin, piled high… and melt in your mouth. That’s Artie’s. It’s not an insane amount of corned beef (like Carnegie, etc) but a huge amount…. so much I need to remove half of it to get the sandwich down the hatch. The fresh rye bread is on par with what you would expect and the mustard is robust. Simply put, it’s a perfect sandwich.



What else do I love? Love the mushroom barley soup. Chef salads are crisp and plentiful. Hot dogs are great, for those who love ‘em big and grilled. The omelette’s are good, as are the burgers, stuffed cabbage and potato pancakes.

I do have a few rubs…. one is the pastrami which Artie’s love to hype as being the best. I’ve ordered the pastrami on several occasions, and find it just too fatty. I love the taste, but when I am spending more time maneuvering around the fat (too chewy to eat) than chomping, the distraction becomes a nuisance.

Next are the pickles. Yuch. Maybe it’s me, but these taste as if they were cured in formaldehyde. What ever happened to the straight ahead kosher dill?

Additionally, delivery can be an adventure. When ordering from home (which we usually find to be fast and reliable) make sure you repeat those items that are important (a side of this, and extra of that) as many times these don’t make the bag.

It may sound like a few gripes, but compared to the corned beef…. and eh. No big whoop.

All in all, yes, Artie’s is my reigning champion of Corned Beef. But knowing me, that could change next week… as the quest continues.

Meanwhile, I’ll see yall at Artie’s.







2290 Broadway, New York 10024
At 83rd St

Phone: 212-579-5959
Fax: 212-579-5958

Warm Pretzels, Hot Schnitzel and Cold Beer in the West Village

Can Germany Be As Close As Grove Street?



I can remember working in Berlin several years ago, and loving the neighborhood biergartens. Most everyone who entered was immediately recognized by the proprietor and menus were rarely distributed… only a chalkboard on the wall would inform patrons of what might have changed since yesterday… the last time they were there. It had the feel of someone’s living room rather than a restaurant.

What really amazed me was how these establishments were located deep into the quiet, green, tree-lined streets of the city. Even more astonishing was how at home each establishment felt in it’s suburban surroundings.

It wasn’t long before I moved to NYC that I stumbled across a real German biergarten… and as you might guess, it is located on a quiet, green, tree-lined street in the West Village.


Lederhosen is one of those places you visit once, and label “your secret find”. I had a feeling the place would be authentic when I spotted the HB sign hanging as if the place was in Frankfurt or Berlin. But as I scooted down the narrow entry I realized I may have hit the holy grail of beer and sausage. My instincts we correct.

It is a decidedly campy yet charming space… with a cramped wooden bar space that makes way to a larger, open room with picnic benches and four tops. The walls are painted with an enormous mural resembling something out of the Sound of Music, and on game days a giant projection screen hangs in the rear, with some type of sporting event… these days, it’s the World Cup. Following the formula of beer, sports and sausage, you can see how they have become one of the city’s better destinations.

Where to start? Well, first with the beer.

You won’t find Coors Light on tap here friends. Lederhosen carries one of the finest German beer collections in the city, available in three sizes: klein, gross, and mass, which is a mug the size of a hot tub. With beers like Weihenstephaner, Spaten, Jever, Dinckelacker, Dortmunder, Radeberger and HB München, you’ll likely find whatever you’re looking for. Add about 10 others and what you have is a veritable smorgasbord of suds. For those looking to tap and snack, you can order a 5-litre keg and a plate of sausages for about $50… an amazing deal considering you’ll need a group of friends to begin to put a dent in that much brew. Generally speaking, beer drinkers consider Lederhosen to be one of the best beer buys in the city, with beers ranging from $3-$7 bucks… in the big mugs.

As much as I love the beer, the food wins my heart. I always start with a hot pretzel (ask for no salt if you wish) accompanied by a side of creamy, sweet German zenf (or mustard).

The menu has so many options, many opt for combo plates, with numerous varieties of delicious goodies including knackwurst, bauernwurst, weisswurst, bratwurst, currywurst and kielbasa. They serve tangy snap skin wieners on crusty rolls (perfect with your cold beer on a Saturday afternoon) as well as fantastic cold cut sandwiches with string beans and cucumbers. Make no bones about it, the sausages are terrific and not your grocery store variety. It doesn’t take long to realize you’re eating authentic stuff.


The hot dishes continue to include a host of German favorites, like Koenigsberger Klopse (Beef and Pork) with potatoes, tart sauerkraut and lemon caper sauce, Rindergoulasch (beefstew), Kassler Rippchen (smoked pork chops), Schweinbraten (pork) served over brown gravy and my favorite…. Weiner Schnitzel (fried chicken, pork or veal) cutlet with a side order of spaetzle.

Let’s talk spaetzle a moment, shall we?

I love love love good spaetzle, and the variety at Lederhosen is different, but doesn’t disappoint. Those used to small, round drops of dough will do a double take when you see the longer, pasta like version severed here with great care. Tossed in a bit of brown butter, the dish is a perfect accompaniment and can also stand on it’s own as a great afternoon schnack.

If in fact you can get to dessert, you’ll find a nice selection of homemade goodies, including black forest and German chocolate cakes… but in this joint, I’d almost rather order another helping of potato pancakes and a bucket of beer. Sweets are sweets, but good German food must be taken advantage of vigorously.

Tips? As you might guess, Lederhosen gets packed, so your first visit may want to be on a weekday afternoon, or Saturday or Sunday afternoon before the others roll out of bed. They keep very late hours (some nights until 4am) so the vibe midday is cool and laidback.

Sure there are great German biergartens in NYC, but for my money Lederhosen is winning my heart. I guess I’ll have to make a second visit to Zum Schneider, Loreley, and Heidelberg to solidify my findings. Cheers.

Lederhosen
39 Grove St
New York, Ny 10014
(212) 206-7691
(212) 206-8562 (Fax)
Cross Street: Between Bedford Street and Bleecker Street
Directions: 1, 9 to Sheridan Square or the A, B, C, D, E, F, V to West 4th

Cheap Eats In The Big Apple

These Noodles Are The Bomb... Take It From MEE



I’ve long wondered how New Yorkers can afford to eat out as much as they do.

I mean, restaurants in this city aren’t cheap by any means… reflected in the fact that many restaurants use $25 an entrée as an average. Add a salad or app, cocktail, dessert and tip… well that $100 bones per couple. Add a bottle of wine and… well, you can add it up.

It wasn’t long after I moved to NYC that I learned how they do it.

Most New Yorkers don’t eat out in an “upscale” manner nightly. They love their neighborhood dives… cheap eats. They do this several nights a week…so when the big night rolls around, they can splurge.

New Yorkers are passionate about cheap eats. They are known to take the subway to another borough, a 45 minute bus ride, you name it… just to spend $1.30 for a taco. Water cooler chat in my office centers around slices of pizza and chicken shwarma sandwiches. I love that!

That said, please welcome my first truly cheap eat entry…. MEE Noodle Shop.

It was nearly 10 years ago when I first found Mee. I was staying painfully close to Hell’s Kicthen where a recording studio I was working at was located. It was about 1:45 in the morning when I finally finished and met up with a friend who suggested we drop in for dumplings.

The rest is history.

Since that night, I’ve been frequenting Mee whenever I am in the neighborhood… or low on cash. And why not? Mee is a gem of a dive (although not a huge secret anymore) and can dish out the goods with the best of them. And you can get out of there for less than $10 bucks.

They take the noodle thing seriously at Mee. How many do they carry? Well, you can get the spinach noodles, the mandarin, lo mein, thin Cantonese, flat Cantonese, hand pulled, mee fun or chow fun. You can slurp down a variety of dumplings, including steamed meat, seafood and veggie… or get them pan fried. They offer 30 varieties of Cantonese style noodle soups (no charge to change noodle to wonton), and offer 25 varieties of various other soups (squid, fish cake, tofu, tomato beef, hot and sour, Chinese green vegetable, shanghai wonton, etc, etc) as well…. All for around $3.95., for a bucket full. This menu has over 500 items and reads like a trip to Jerry’s Deli. Fantastic.

As for me, I love the food food here. The shrimp toast is terrific, the egg rolls are crispy and contain not a drop of grease and the scallion pancakes ($1.95) may very well be worth the trip alone. You’ll find a few dim sum items here as well, including steam bread with sweet bean paste, pork buns, shrimp siu mai and the like… as well as sizzling platters. For those who are looking for standard grub, their menu reads like a gathering of every Chinese dish in NYC…. Sesame beef and chicken, beef and broccoli… well hell, they have everything. Most large dishes run less than $9 bucks.

I happen to love the subgum wonton here. Fried wonton over beef, chicken and shrimp stir fried with veggies in a spicy brown sauce. Monster dish.




So, the cat is out of the bag. Mee noodle is the kind of late night Chinese dives, and the food is flat out delish. Next time you find yourself drifting through midtown towards Hell’s Kitchen, stop by. For the price of a #3 value meal you can have some authentic dim sum and a bowl of noodles…. and still have change for the cream puff place in the west village.

MEE NOODLE

795 9th Ave at 53rd
New York 10019

AMEX ONLY

Phone: 212-765-2929

'inoteca

Who Knew The Lower East Side Could Raise The Bar So High



I used to be scared of the Lower East Side.

I’ll admit it. I just didn’t go down there. Spooky. Dirty. Scary.

But my, my how things have changed. I won’t go as far as comparing the rebirth of the Lower East Side (or coming out I should say) to what has happened in Chelsea or even Hell’s Kitchen… but the truth is with the opening and success of The Hotel on Rivington as well as a half a dozen other outposts, well, the Lower East Side is da bomb.


If you have no reason to ever make the trip, I am about to give you one. It is simply one of the best restaurants in this city…

and it’s called ‘inoteca.

There just isn’t anything else like it… or that I have found as of yet… and on a recent Sunday, it again welcomed me in, stood me still, and knocked my socks off.

This isn’t a place that slops plates of spaghetti, lamb chops or mama’s lasagna. Think tapas. Bowls of olives. Plates of cheese (my god, the cheese). And killer panini.

Throw in a wine list that reads like an Italian best seller, and you get a spot that is just about as cool as I can handle.

It is a funky yet calm spot that sports wooden tables and chairs, including a communal table in the middle of the room. The glass doors that serve as walls on this corner eatery slide open in warm months to allow the city breeze and sidewalk chatter to infuse the space. I observed a wide range of pedestrian traffic… you name it, I saw it.

So, what to order? One who has been will tell you that the truffled egg toast isn’t to be missed, and if you a truffle person, I’d have to agree.

On my Sunday morning visit, I nibbled on hard cheeses, including fantastic hard goat, romano and ubriaco varieties… olives… grapes and almonds…. and culatello panini with noci and mozzarella.

But the killer dish?

Holy crap, try the assorted bruschette. Paired with the right wine, the lightly toasted bread included an olive spread, fresh tomatoes…. and then, the noci. Amazing ground walnuts mixed with italian olive oil.

The walnut spread on this bread has beat out the egg toast in my book. Think out of your mind peanut butter, with herbs…. on fresh french bread. Subtle, rich, salty, earthy, perfect.

I can blog my fingers off and recommend a number of dishes, but honestly, everything on this menu is a winner. So, plan a trip and block out several hours… you’re gonna need it.

‘inoteca. The restaurant LA and Chicago only wish they had.


KILLER DISH: bruschette with noci

WHY THEY RULE: open 7 days, until 3am nightly

WHEN YOU ARE DONE: walk a block to economy candy and buy a box of zotz and a pack of candy cigs

Now That's One Damn Fine Wiener

When Life Presents Options, Take The Sausage



When I first glanced at the flight plan for my recent trip to Europe, I was overjoyed to see I had a change in planes in one of my favorite places, Frankfort, Germany.

Sure, airports are airports… but Frankfort is special. As the name alludes, Frankfort is home and birthplace of the frankfurter, and as you may know… I am a sausage fanatic. So true to form, the Frankfort airport has several outlets to stock up while you are waiting for your flight to faraway places.

Just as my excitment was growing, I looked at the flight times. Ouch. Fourty five minutes between flights.

Well, this is a problem.

And sure enough, as carefully as I tried to map out my strategy, the day would turn into a logistical nightmare… with the real possibility I’d be leaving Frankfurt sausage-less. A mortal and culinary sin.



As my flight from Nice rolled to a stop on the Frankfort tarmac, I glanced at my watch as if I had just began taping an episode of “Alias”. It was 9:14. Seated in the last row of an overbooked airplane, I needed to get off the plane, board a bus to the terminal, clear passport control, walk down 2 long hallways, re-enter the departure terminal, have my carry-on bags checked and pass through security, and run down two very long hallways to gate 34. Before 9:50. The flight would leave at 10:00am.

Forget shopping or going to the bathroom… just making the connection would be tricky.

Of course, my fellow passengers had no idea of the seemingly impossible task ahead as they slugged along… which was favorable. Could I maneuver around them in warp speed?

It took what seemed like an hour to reach the terminal, and get into the building, through passport control, and to the sea of people now waiting to re-enter the terminal and pass through security. With this many people, just getting to the place would be difficult. With the sizable crown growing and only a few positions available to check people through, the crowd grumbled and moaned… causing a brief meeting between the 3 officers in charge of the entry point. With my German being marginal at best, I could decipher one thing…. They we going to open 2 extra lines….. and fast.

As I observed, the crowd separated to my left, and like the Holy Grail, appeared what I had seen in my dreams. The Francfort Haus of Sausage.

Now, I am torn. Any moment several new lines will form, and with my knowledge of the plan, I am certain to be at the front of one of them… but when? 30 seconds? 1 minute?


I gazed in a painful, confused manner into the store at a female clerk that could see me agonizing on whether or not I could get in and out. I even stutter stepped twice, like the beginning of a race… struggling with a decision that could possible take me off of an international flight to New York.

Staring at the girl in the store, I mouthed the words “can you check me out in 60 seconds?”…. she paused for a moment, looked at an empty cash register at the end of a long aisle and shook her head yes.

I was off.

I ran through the store like a madman I know, but karma was on my side. I had hit the wiener mother load.

There was bierwurst, bockwurst, bratwurst. Knockwurst, knackwurst and weisswurst. Frankfurters, wienerwurst and cervelat. Rings and rings of fresh German rope sausages as well as the 2 foot long varieties you would see hanging in a butcher shop somewhere in the middle of town. I though I was going to pass out.

In the next isle are the accompaniments; sweet, hot, spicy, course and smooth mustards (or zenf), every variety of bread and roll imaginable… and jars of kraut and pickled everything to make the sausage happy. Oh yea, they had pretzels, too.

Without thinking, I began grabbing cans and packages like a contestant on “The Price is Right”. With my arms full, I ran to my girl *Inga (replace with a nicer German name please) and dumped it all on an empty counter.

I quickly began grabbing each item and asking the question, “Good… or No Good”.

As I grabbed, she nodded and smiled yes buy that, or frowned so-so you may not need that. 30 seconds later, I had a bag of snap skin frankfurters, weisswurst, bockwurst, 3 rings of beer sausage, a massive German beef log, 2 tubes of mustard and a Visa bill to sign.

Yes, believe it, within 60 seconds I had entered the store, shopped, sorted, purchased and bagged… and was now headed for a line that had not a person in it.


Before I could count to 10, a security officer made his way to my line, unhooked the rope, and pointed me to a newly opened x-ray machine and metal detector thingy.

I felt as if I had won The Amazing Race.

I quickly slipped through security checkpoint number 2, down the hallway yet again, to another ticket control point, and to the gate. She slipped my boarding pass through the computer and I walked down the jetway. It was 9:48am.

Yes, I was the last on, which yielded yet another advantage…. finding an entire row of empty seats and claiming them as my own. I stored the luggage overhead, and pulled out one of the sausage ropes to celebrate.

Settling in my seat, I tore off a piece and nibbled, laughing at the notion that the entire gamble could have gone terribly wrong. About that time, the female flight attendant noticed my snack, and leaned over to me as she looked to see if my seatbelt was fastened.

“Sehr gut, ya?”… or “That’s Good?!”… she smiled.

“If you only knew how good”… I remarked.

If in fact she only knew…..

How Do They Do It?

Two European Gems Raise The Bar…. Again


**note André is traveling the French and Italian Riviera and files this blog from somewhere in Northern Italy


Surely one of the joys of traveling abroad is pretending to be a local, and eating like one.

When visiting areas I’ve yet to explore, I tend to spend very little time in the touristy haunts and more in the back streets and neighborhoods, roaming through grocery stores and the like…. finding out what people really eat. It’s a hobby of mine. While my wife looks for shoes, I am tasting salami and buying bread. It’s sometimes more of an obsession than a hobby now that I think of it.

While I don’t have too much time to blog on, let me recap a few standout meals that you’ll need to eat in this lifetime. Amazing stuff.

Nice, France

There is lots to like about Nice as I wrote a month ago on an early trip, but there is one Brasserie that takes the cake. Brasserie Flo.

Yes, it sounds like a bad French diner located somewhere in Indianapolis, but when you get there you realize, this may be the only restaurant of it’s kind in the world.

That’s because Brasserie Flo is built inside of a dramatic old French theatre… using the theatre space for cozy banquette seating, and get this…. the stage for a kitchen.
Upon walking in the front door, the ticket booth area has been scraped for a glass enclosed seafood prep area, teaming with cold oysters, lobsters and salmon. Descending into the dining room is truly breathtaking, as the vaulting coffered ceilings reveal the thick velvet curtains that frame the busy kitchen on the stage. Behind a glass wall, the noise and hustle of the kitchen disappear into what simply becomes one of the most novel things you have ever seen…. and why not? Isn’t the food the real show?

As for dinner, it’s what we expected…. terrific. A perfect plate of warm asparagus topped with herbs and a light vinaigrette, a cucumber gazpacho with a small scoop of ice cream floating on top for pure sweetness, outstanding regional wines and steaks with locally grown potatoes, halved and pan sautéed with chives. Top it off with green apple sorbet and a perfect crème brulé and you go home happy. Really happy.

As much as I enjoy terrific French fare, I was longing to reach the Italian town of Rapallo to sample true Ligurian foods. Liguria is the northwest region of Italy many people skip over in lieu of Milano, Florence and Rome… and what they miss is gastronomic.

It’s this region (and possibly town) that invented pesto, so having a pasta dish with pesto here is an out of body experience. It is like nothing I have ever tasted, so I can only tell you that if you think you have had great pesto, think again. The subtle and fresh flavor that this sauce has here in Italy reminds me why we get on airplanes and fly until our butt burns. It’s worth every second.

On the water in Rapallo is Nattuno, a terrific local spot frequented by tourists and locals alike. They specialize in pizzas, pastas and seafood specialties, but make no mistake, it’s all about the pesto.

Our meal began with fresh buffalo mozzarella and tomatoes, a plate of homemade salami and cured parma hams, followed by two pasta dishes….
Pesto with trofie… a small, hand twisted pasta that carries the sauce perfectly, and a penne dish with pesto, tomatoes and cream. Whatever.

By the time the pizza came, we were in pain. As hard as it was, we asked for a box, drank a few cappuccinos and began a stroll along the water past the 15th Century castle that sits in the up lit harbor under the stars. It was so authentic, we laughed of how it resembled a movie set.

So, time to make a reservation. Look at the calendar, put in some vacation time, and book a trip. Anywhere. The only way to taste what’s out there is to get out there and discover…. and… uh, get the pesto.

Everyday Italian, NY Apartment Style

When All Else Fails, Cook It At Home!


Without question, moving to New York has reintroduced me to what is likely my favorite ethnic cuisine... Italian food. Louisiana, although rich with Italian immigrants and history, is not known for it’s authentic Italian fare. With the Gulf of Mexico in your backyard, who can you blame?

So, most folks in the south do their italian cooking at home. The cooking and sauces tend to be very “sicilian” in nature, with thick, rich meat sauces that cook for hours.
Homemade meatballs abound in South Louisiana.... not always headed for a gravy, but often for a meatball poboy, on fresh french bread.

I’ve said before that my simple corner Italian restaurant here in my Upper West Side neighborhood is better than the best Italian restaurant in Baton Rouge... so the quality of New York Italian restaurants should start becoming evident to you.... we are talking unreal. Outside of Italy (and sometimes inside) New York has the best Italian food in the world.

I guess my favorite part of choosing an Italian restaurant in New York is actually having the ability to choose the regional flare in which the restaurant will represent. Do they cook in a light Milanese style, or a Venetian way? Are the meats prepared in a Tuscan tradition or Florentine? Or do we look for a true Roman meal?.... or and age-old Sicilian dive?

Of course, in my restaurant world, it’s all about stealing. Yes, I steal daily from great restaurants... ideas, recipes, presentation, wine pairings, you name it. After all, they got it from someone, too... changed it, made it their own... much like what I’ll do.

I’m not into taking all the credit (although it would be fun) but we do share with our guests where the ideas were lifted.

Like a few weekends ago, when we entertained a few couples here at the apartment. We had a nice spread with various vegetables and spreads, a terrific artichoke and onion crostini appetizer with boursin cheese (I stole that one years ago) and a large plate of fresh hard Italian cheeses with dipping sauces... a dish I experience at Mario Batali’s “Otto” in the Village (I review Otto somewhere down the page, a few months back). Topped off with a few bottles of good wine.... dinner didn’t seem like such a life and death proposition.... we were enjoying the snacking.

That too is something we do a lot of here, “appetizing”. We simply load up a platter of veggies, cheeses, crackers, salami, etc.... pop open a bottle of wine... and, well, dinner is served. If we are able to clear the platter and finish the wine, dinner seems to be an afterthought.

So, if you are needing Italian “goodies”.... I mean, fantastic stuff to make your own trays and platters, I’d like to share with you my favorite haunts in New York. Even if you don’t live here, put them on your list for when you visit. You’ll be the envy of the plane on your way home.

I’ll follow my list with a wonderful, home-cooked meat ragu, that has become a staple at our house. I love his sauce, and really really love it the next day.

André’s Favorite Italian Markets and Food Shops


Balducci’s
155 W. 66th Street
Yes, I miss the Village mecca this once was, but it’s back and fighting for culinary supremacy with the others in town who took advantage of their absence. This store is still terrific, and continues to bottle their specialty sauces that originally put them on the map. The 8th Ave at 14th locale is now open as well.




Borgatti’s Ravioli
632 E. 187th, Bronx
It’s a hike, but it may be the best homemade ravioli in the city. Mr. Borgatti has been making the little gems (along with egg noodles) since 1930. Folks in the Bronx line up for them, and I can’t blame them.


Garden of Eden Market
7. E. 14th Street, others....
It’s not a hard core Italian dive, but the fare here is so fresh and so good, I have to mention it. This is a spot where you can find “hard to find” stuff... Lavazza and Illy coffee blends, great cheeses, quality meats, and your favorite european crackers and cookies. Sure you’ll drop $100 here, but you smile all the way home.


Risotteria
270 Bleeker St.
So, it’s not a market exactly, but I just had to include it, because you can take it home with you.... I have always liked risotto, but when I found this place, with over 50 risotto’s on the menu, I flipped. They are all made to order, and are fantastic. If you are headed for the subway, they’ll pack it up for the trip home.


Russo Mozzarella and Pasta
344 E. 11th Street
Yes, the pasta is terrific, but it’s the mozzarella that has had customers returning for nearly 100 years. They have other goodies here as well, including some fine sauces for that pile of fresh linguine you just bought.


Murray’s Cheese
254 Bleeker Street
It truly is my very favorite cheese shop in New York City, although I am sure there may be better. There is just something about the place that pushes my buttons... perhaps it’s the cheese vault at the rear of the store? Or maybe the t-shirts they sell that say “You Have A Friend in Cheeses”? For whatever reason, it’s the real deal, and you can likely find what you are looking for here... and a lot of what you’re not.


Faicco’s Pork Store
260 Bleeker Street
Thank god for Faicco’s. Sure, they have been open for 65 years, and yes, the cuts of meat and pork are superb.... but forget all of it. Open the door, walk to the back, and order a bag full of rice balls (arancini). The lightly fried room-temp rice balls are golf ball sized gifts from god. The creamy rice is blended with a mild goat cheese and herbs, making for an “Italian Boudin” ball I adore. I have tried to get these home without eating them all, and have failed miserably. Four times.

AND THE GET IT ALL STAND BYS



Zabar’s
2245 Broadway
We all know about Zabar’s, the mecca of all things wonderful. From fresh roasted coffees, to jewish delights, to fresh meats and pastas, to pierogies... well, you name it, they got it. Not to mention an upstairs of kitchen gadgets that will make a home cook break down and weep. Put aside a good hour, you’ll need it.


Citarella
2135 Broadway, 424 Sixth Ave, 1313 Third Ave, etc......
It didn’t take long after Balducci’s closes their legendary Village outpost for Citarella to become king of all things expensive and italian... and they did. What is left is one of the finest prepared grocery stores in America, with everything imaginable under one roof. The gourmet stuff here is not to be believed, but what I love about Citarella is the stuff you just can’t find anywhere else... like imported tomatoes (San Marzano brands I never knew existed). The fish counter is loaded with great stuff as well... enjoy.


So, planning an Italian night in your own humble abode? Here is a sauce that will make your guests sing. Adapted from a recipe I found several years ago.

André’s Favorite Meat Ragu

2 lbs. lean ground beef

2 tbls. olive oil

1 lb. ground pork or 1 medium pkg. of pork spareribs

1 medium red onion, chopped

2 cups chopped yellow onions

1 cup chopped bell pepper

2 stalks celery, chopped

4 cloves garlic, minced

1 lb. Italian link sausage (I like the spicy here, but sweet works well, too)

2 (6-oz.) cans tomato paste

2 (6-oz.) cans tomato sauce

2 (10-oz.) cans tomato purée (San Marzano if you can swing it)

1 (10-oz.) can Rotel diced tomatoes and green chilies

4 tbls. dark brown sugar

3 bay leaves

1/2 tsp. dried basil

1/2 tsp. dried oregano, crushed

1/2 tsp. dried rosemary, crushed

1 tsp. cayenne pepper

1 tsp. Old Bay seasoning

1/2 tsp. Italian seasoning

1 tsp. Tony Chachere's Original Seasoning
(or your favorite cajun seasoning)
1 tsp. kosher salt

4 cups water (use some to rinse out tomato paste cans before adding water to pot)

6 cups chicken stock or broth

1/2 bunch fresh chopped curly parsley

1. In a large Dutch oven, stew pot or Le Creset pot, brown ground beef in olive oil. Remove browned meat from pot and set aside. If using ground pork, brown in same pot. Remove from pot and set aside.

2. Add onions, bell pepper, celery and garlic and sauté until transparent.

3. While the meats are browning and vegetables are sautéing, cut sausage into 1/2-inch pieces and cook in a 350-degree oven for 10-15 minutes. Drain oil and set aside.

4. Add tomato paste to the Dutch oven (my large le cruset pot is perfect!) with the sautéed vegetables. If using spareribs, also add at this time. Stir and blend for 10 to 15 minutes, being careful not to let the tomato paste burn or stick.

5. Add the tomato sauce, tomato purée, all seasonings and Rotel tomatoes and cook on low heat for 30 minutes, stirring gently to keep mixture from sticking. Add fresh chopped parsley, simmer on low for an additional hour. Add chicken broth to get the gravy the right thickness... the way you like it!

Take Me Out

There's More Going On At The Park Than Hot Dogs


I love baseball.

But when I say baseball, I mean all of it. Sure, the games are fun in person... and every once in a while, you get a good one (with a 9th inning comeback).... but to me baseball is much, much more. Without spending an hour paying homeage to George Will, I'll explain.


As a kid, I became infatuated with stadiums. I loved everything about them… the architecture, the sightlines, the electricity of the game, the food. I loved the smell of the fresh cut grass when you walked into the right field bleachers of Wrigley Field. The call of the 85-year-old guy selling programs at Dodger Stadium from his soap box.

I loved it all.

By the time I was 30, I had been to over 75 college and pro baseball, basketball and football stadiums. Through my journey, I was able to do something special…. I was able to put my finger on the pulse of a community just by attending a game. How were the fans? Are they respectful? Did they support losing teams? Are there families in the stands? How friendly are the vendors? All of it made sense, and I was able to garner a real opinion that most of the time was right on target. Before you move to a new city?.... attend a local baseball game.

So, since I am here to talk food, I won’t spend a lot of time on communities and stadiums, but I can tell you this. People in Seattle love their sports… and cater to families. There is astounding dedication in Buffalo, where Bills fans fry bologna in 10 degree weather. Kansas City fans tailgate NCAA style…. and Florida Gator fans?... well, they can go to hell :) .

Of course, there is nothing like Tiger Stadium in Baton Rouge on a Saturday night….. but that’s an entirely separate blog.

OK, back to food.

Each visit on my baseball travels grew into a culinary adventure, ballpark style. I have always judged a stadium on its hotdog. I have my own dream dog mind you… a natural casing snap skin wiener, steamed hot in its own freshly steamed bun, with onions and mustard. But hotdogs aside, ballparks these days offer a whole lot more than dogs.

So with the help of the USA Today, I’ve compiled the latest and greatest… with my own comments sprinkled in. If you live near one of the parks, call in sick, grab your glove, and get to the park. Sometimes, we need to feel 12 again.

In these cities, this is what I eat!

Whoever thought food would become part of a home-field advantage?

American League

Anaheim: The Angels recognize the appeal of Mexican fare and offer shredded beef tamales. Mexican beer on tap. Ole!

Baltimore: The Orioles are from crab country and serve an acceptable crabcake. It's not all lump crabmeat, but it isn't packed with filler either. It isn't a native dish, but an open-pit barbecue sometimes run by former Baltimore slugger Boog Powell is popular. Love this park.

Boston: The Red Sox serve Legal Seafoods chowder, a mainstay at inaugurations. ...
The Hilltop restaurant is famed for a steak tips sandwich you can get at Fenway Park. True local flavor, even if you hate 'em like a Yankee.

Chicago: The White Sox serve a popular Polish dog, and a kosher hot dog with grilled onions. ...They also have a Mexican cantina in center field. Nothing too crazy, and I miss the pizza from the old days.

Cleveland: The city is famous for pierogies, savory potato dumplings, sometimes filled with meat. You can find them at Jacobs Field, where the filling is potatoes and cheese with sour cream and sautéed onions on the side. ... The brown mustard at The Jake is nationally known and marketed.

Detroit: Motor City fans are devoted to Coney Islands (chili dogs) from the Leo's Coney Island stand at Comerica Park. Tigers owner Mike Ilitch owns Little Caesar's Pizza, served at the yard. Love this new park, they did a great job... and the Tigers are winning again.

Kansas City: Gates Barbecue and Arthur Bryant's Barbecue in Kansas City are national barbecue landmarks. The Royals have Gates barbecue on sale. They even scream "Hi, May I Help You".... but the way, I could drink this BBQ sauce. Check my old blogs...

Minnesota: No local specialties. Where's the Walleye Pike and wild rice?

New York: The Yankees offer knishes (rolled dough with filling) and kosher hot dogs.

Oakland: No local specialties of note beyond varied sausages. Considering the aggressiveness of A's fans, maybe raw meat should be on the menu. Stadium is horrible for all pro sports.

Seattle: You can get a rich, creamy chowder, dished up by Ivar's, a local restaurant. Tacos del Mar serves fish tacos. What would Seattle be without coffee? Tully's coffee is all over the ballpark. The Hit it Here Cafe is awesome. This may be the best designed and fan friendly park in America.

Tampa Bay: The Columbia Restaurant, anchored in Ybor City, Fla., is a Tampa area landmark. It has a stand at Tropicana Field serving Cuban sandwiches. Great food, terrible baseball.

Texas: They take barbecue seriously in the Lone Star State. So do the Rangers. They smoke brisket on site. You can smell it in the outfield, and it's enough to drive you insane.

Toronto: It's hard to identify any single food creation with Toronto. Fast-food franchises Pizza Pizza and Mr. Sub have stands at SkyDome. Otherwise this stadium stopped being cool about 10 years ago.

National League

Arizona: The D'backs don't go heavy on Southwestern cuisine. Instead they have a stand offering a specialty food from the visiting club's home. Nice in the summer evening with roof open.

Atlanta: Bison burgers from bison raised on owner Ted Turner's massive Montana ranch are an item that can't be found anywhere else. And oh yea, the Braves win a lot.

Chicago: The Cubs serve three favorites -- Italian beef, Chicago hot dogs and deep-dish pizza. Italian beef is shaved slices of well-done roast beef, with peppers and onions and plenty of au jus soaking the bun.
Take a steamed hot dog on a big, seeded bun. Add bright yellow mustard and bright green pickle relish, chopped onions, two slices of tomato, one of cucumber and a sprinkle of celery salt for a Chicago dog . Deep-dish pizza started in Chicago... and it rocks.

Cincinnati: The Reds offer Cincinnati chili, a cinnamon-scented concoction that is less meaty than classic Texas chili. Chiliheads live in Cincy and visit parlors there where it tops spaghetti or hot dogs. Skyline is my favorite, and is available at the park!

Colorado: The Rockies serve Rocky Mountain oysters, lingo for the testicles of cattle. Yummmy! They also offer buffalo dogs, burgers and brats. After that, you probably will need to drink one of the seven microbrews at Coors Field. Ready for this? They pump the beer from ice cold kegs underneath the stadium.

Florida: Think your espresso is strong? Drink dense Turkish coffee? Prefer a brew with 10W-30 viscosity? Cafe Cubano, Cuban coffee, is for you. It gives you a hair-raising jolt, especially if you let them ladle in the sugar. It's at Pro Player Stadium. ... The Marlins also offer the ubiquitous Cuban sandwiches, crusty bread toasted with boiled ham, roast pork, salami, turkey (optional), Swiss cheese and pickles.

Houston: Sheriff Blaylock's barbecue is in the Texas tradition. Rosa's Cantina fajitas, chicken and beef, are popular. If only they had the rocket pitching.

Los Angeles: The local specialty, Farmer John's Dodger dogs, can be made at home or gobbled at Dodger Stadium. They are grilled, never boiled, and the best dogs west of Chi-town... also serve great mexican food as well.

Milwaukee: The bratwurst with red sauce is a legendary item in Wisconsin.
It made the walk from County Stadium to Miller Park. Foodies nationwide are rejoicing. ... Of course it wouldn't be Milwaukee without beer. Miller Park does have beer.

Washington: Nothing going on other than dippin' dots and average hot dogs.

New York: Shea's best fare: Brooklyn soft pretzel and kosher hot dog.

Philadelphia: You can get a Philly cheesesteak at Veterans Stadium, a good one, not a cheap imitation, plus Italian water ice (frozen, flavored ices, very refreshing) and soft pretzels. ... It's a real taste of the city, short only scrapple (slices from a loaf of meat scraps and filler).

Pittsburgh: Two unique items made the move from Three Rivers Stadium to PNC Park: One is Primanti's, a cheesesteak with cole slaw and fries on it, messy and tasty; and the local favorite, Benkovitz's fish sandwich.... awesome.

St. Louis: The Cardinals offer toasted ravioli, a nationally recognized St. Louis snack food specialty, and prize-winning Super Smokers barbecue, done St. Louis style (i.e. meaty ribs). The new park is great, and the food is rockin.

San Diego: Former Padres Cy Young winner Randy Jones serves succulent barbecue. ... You can get fish tacos from the Rubio's chain. They're big in Southern California. ... Try kettle corn, sweet and salty baby!

San Francisco: The Giants have been adventurous concessionaires for some time (aromatic garlic fries and 40-clove chicken sandwich, for instance). They didn't change with their move to Pacific Bell Park. They have on the stadium promenade a fresh catch stand with Pacific seafood specialties and Orlando's Caribbean BBQ with a marinade from the family kitchen of former Giants great Orlando Cepeda. This is a great park and even with Barry Bonds, worth a trip. The bay setting is amazing.

NEXT BLOG: A report from Rapallo, Italy.... see you from the Italy next week... home of Ligurian Cuisine!

In Search of Pierogie

The Polish Obsession I Just Can't Shake


If you have been following this blog for a while, by now you figured out that I have a serious obsession with food.

Early on, it was purely taste for me. I loved to eat good food, and lots of it. But later in life, my tastes begin to change (for the better) and my interest in food deepened beyond the sensory perception of a meal or dish.... but to it’s origins. Knowing more about the history, the ingredients, the preparation... the “tradition”.... well, just makes the food taste better.

That said, I have a truly unique background that has been more than enough fuel for my culinary travels... and today, I’d like to chat with you about a food that I have a deep, deep passion for.

Pierogies.

Wasn’t expecting that, were you! Yes, I am from South Louisiana, born and raised in Baton Rouge. What you may not have known is that I had a polish grandmother on my Dad’s side (my Grammy) from New Hampshire that could make a pierogie like you’ve never tasted.

Growing up I always looked forward to visits from my Grammy. She was a ball of energy, fun-loving and always on the go. Even though I was twice her size, she could eat like nobody’s business... eat and eat and eat. Not huge amounts... just a constant nibble. She had a undeniable love for food and it showed.

Inevitably during her trips, we’d have a pierogie day... a full day of assembling these little gems, and a full evening of eating them. Now Grammy could make a serious cabbage roll as well as some of the best coffee cake you’ll ever eat... but make no mistake about it, her visits were about the pierogies. She was the pierogie master.

If you haven’t had a pierogie (and no, those nasty frozen things at your grocer don’t count) let me explain. A pierogie is a flat dumpling... half-moon shaped, stuffed with a variety of fillings. The dough is not tough and chewy, but pasta like. They are served one of two ways... boiled and pan fried (some folks deep fry theirs, but yuch... not the way to go). Hardcore pierogie folks tend to go either way... but my way is pan fried in butter until hot and crispy.

These days, you can find pierogies filled with just about anything. The most popular filling is potato, a throwback to the old days in Poland when this was just about the only vegetable you could count on. A mashed potato filling, either plain or with onions. The dish would be likely topped with sauteed onions and served with a dollop of sour cream. You can also find mushroom, spinach, cabbage, kielbasa as well as a dozen dessert types.




My favorite filling is the one my Grammy made... sauerkraut and mushroom. The filling really was kapusta... a mixture of cabbage, kraut and mushrooms, cooked down in bacon grease. Fantastic. For my brother, she’d make a meat filling... also good, but very different.

So if you’re not a pierogie eater, or wondering why you don’t see these little guys everywhere, the answer is really simple. They may be amazing to eat... but they are a pain in the #!^@%$ to make. Having a wife who is also nuts about pierogies, I get talked into making them myself about twice a year... and believe me, I clear my calendar for a day.

First, making pierogies takes patience. The dough must be made from scratch and be just the right texture. The cabbage for the kapusta filling must be first boiled, then cooled, shredded and added to the kraut, mushroom and onion mixture.... which then must cook down, and then cool. When ready, the dough must be rolled thin, and cut into circles to be filled. Once filled and sealed, the pierogies must then be carefully par boiled then removed to cool. At that point, you can place in the fridge, freezer... or go straight to a hot skillet to fry and brown in butter.

Now, a warning. If you haven’t had these, and decide to read further about how to procure your own... they can become extremely addictive. Think Polish crack.

There, you’ve been warned.

In New York, the Polish neighbors of the Lower East Side have pierogies galore. Stores like First Ave. Pierogie and Deli (130 First Ave. btw. 7th and St. Marks) have a huge variety and will package for a train ride home. Of course, stay and eat a dozen there before you leave. Also good are the polish “diners” in this neighborhood, including NEPTUNE, a favorite of mine on 1st Ave. at 12th. Their pierogies are great as well as their borsht, which has won awards. It’s a dive, but the food is cheap and the real deal. Many folks drift to Velselka, the stylish polish outpost on 2nd Ave and 9th, and open 24-hours, their food is terrific.... but the pierogie here is not my style, unless you like them boiled. Their fried variety get thrown into a deep fryer, and this changes the essence entirely.



Pieogies have stormed into the internet, and a few googles can scrape up a few quality joints. My favorite so far is Pierogies Plus, in suburban Pittsburgh. Their kraut and mushroom are excellent, and each is made by hand. Believe me, once you’ve had a sweet polish lady stuff your pierogies, you’ll never consider eating store bought again.

You can find them here: http://www.pierogiesplus.com/home.htm .

There you have it. In the coming weeks, I’ll be sharing my own recipe, something I’ve never done. If you can’t wait until then, hit one of the links above... you won’t be disappointed!

Dylan Prime : Tribeca Does Steak

But Can It Compete With The Big Boys?



The Tribeca area of Manhattan is hardly recognizable from its earnest beginnings as a gritty lower west side industrial hub.

Sure the buildings remain the same, but my how the insides have changed. The development and growth of Tribeca has a direct relationship to the emergence of New York City becoming the business center of America. Tribeca was the center of the fresh fruit and produce market, the shipping capital of the United States, and the site of the first "skyscraper" in America, the Woolworth Building. It was in the Tribeca area that the textile industry grew into one of the largest employer and producer in New York.

Today, this area is loaded with trendy loft spaces, sleek bars and groundbreaking restaurant spaces. While the area prides itself on resting well ahead of the cutting edge, it also carries a charm that much of the city wishes it had…. a feeling that can only be duplicated by space, sunlight and city planning.


Tucked away in the heart of Tribeca is the funky steak house, Dylan Prime. A hip, stylish joint, Dylan attracts an upscale local clientele as well as those on expense accounts entertaining clients. Upon entering, Dylan offers a large (by New York standards) lounge area, with several beers on tap as well as a stocked back bar. Martinis feel right at home here, and seem to be the drink of choice. The main dining room is smallish but well appointed, if not a bit dark. It also features a bar area, which I am guessing serves as overflow on late weekend nights when scoring a table here becomes a 2 + hour wait.

As far as the food goes, I’d love to light this webpage on fire with glowing reviews, but in general I found the experience average. The steaks are good and well prepared… but if its meat you are craving, this certainly wouldn’t be my final destination. That said, if you live nearby and didn’t want to make the trek to Brooklyn or Midtown, Dylan Prime is just fine.

The menu is fairly simple but offers several interesting choices. We started with the fondue…. a good sized pot of bubbly hot gruyere cheese, with sliced apples, crusty bread and fresh crumbled bacon. Until the cheese cooled, the dish was good and perfect to share.

The menu is ala carte, with a decent choice of pricy steaks. I opted for a ribeye, and chose a few sides… homemade mac and cheese and green beans tossed with garlic.
The ribeye was a bit fatty… not thick and marbled as I was expecting. The meat was good, but the outside was well seasoned, a trick not needed if the meat is well aged and brimming with flavor.

The sides were solid, and the green beans stood out. Served tender crisp, they quickly became the focal point of my meal… not a good sign when plopping down over $30 on a steak.

What happened to Dylan Prime is what happens to most hip restaurant spots…. at some point, the food fades into the shadows, and the scene takes over. When I walked in the room to be seated, each and every head in the space turned to check me out… meaning this is a place to see and be seen... not to savor USDA Prime beef. That said, Dylan Prime is a cool hang and a spot I wouldn’t hesitate returning to for a cocktail or snack at the bar… just don’t waste your “steak” dollars here…. it’s worth the trip to Peter Lugar when you need a real fix.

Dylan Prime
62 Laight St., New York, NY 10013
at Greenwich St.
212-334-4783

Pastis: Deal or No Deal?

Pastis has a challenge. Does it shift gears and become a formidable top shelf bistro…. or continue to serve as the “in” spot on the southern edge of the white-hot Meatpacking District on New York’s lower west side. Does it matter?

To those seeking authentic bistro fare without the watered down versions of tried and true French dishes, yes. To those who rubber-neck in the oh-so-crowded dining room, not really. To everyone else, well it really doesn’t matter, because they can’t get a table.

My weekend trip to Pastis was done the right way… with a 3-week in advance reservation… at 6:30 on a Saturday night. We arrived and were seated in the busy main dining room immediately… a good sign. The room was washed in faded yellow and adorned with giant mirrors featuring the menu, hand painted on the fronts. Hmmm. Feels French.

The menu at Pastis is refreshingly authentic, down to the Pernod and Mint cocktail. Yes, there are steak frites (I am guessing half of the restaurant was eating beef), but just as appealing were the simple pastas, seared tuna and braised beef. With the bubbly onion soup and stinky tomato and goat cheese tart… well, it really felt like a Parisian bistro. We even had a French waitress who tried to yell the daily specials over the roar of the packed dining room. Hmmmm. Sounds French.

With thick steaks, delicious fries and gravy boats full of béarnaise sauce piled high, my dinner (the only stray) arrived. A thin sliced pork Milanese… pounded thin and fried, with spinach and mushroom salad on the side. Hmmmm. Tastes French.

My only hiccup was the service. While the waitress seemed to have her act together, busboys hovered uncomfortably over the table all night…. as they were waiting to scoop up the plates, change the tablecloth and welcome the next table. As a general rule, each time one of these guys make a motion to pick up my plate before I am finished, I tack on an automatic 10 minutes (per attempt). You can guess how popular I have become at some restaurants.

The bottom line: Not so French.

Pastis is a great spot for solid bistro food. Unfortunately the “scene” that has developed around the space now dominates the dining experience… so don’t expect any life-changing stuff here. I believe other neighborhood spots in the city (Nice Matin on the Upper West Side) have equally good food without the Trendy McTrenderson’s.

Pack up and head north…. Why travel into the deep when you can get average food and decent service at Café Luxembourg?


PASTIS
9 Ninth Avenue, (at Little West 12th Street)
New York City, NY 10014-1203